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View Full Version : Muzzle flip and spring/action on Stag AR


smith629
12-02-2011, 7:39 PM
I just put 200 rounds through my new Stag Model 3 AR for the first time this last weekend and it was awesome! I have never shot an AR before so it was a cool experience. I think I am hooked now :cool2:

I was surprised how little recoil the rifle had with such a short 16" barrel. I'm guessing that is mostly due to the .556 round in general (although I used only 55g lake city ammo). The muzzle flip was noticeable though, and I will need to practice getting back onto target better.

Accuracy is pretty amazing. The target is at 25 yards with iron sights (beginners luck?).

I will admit I'm rather disappointed with the stock trigger on the Stag Model 3. It is very heavy and has some noticeable creep, which comes and goes. One trigger pull no creep, the next it will come back. This trigger may get better with time but I'm not patient enough to wait so I just ordered a RRA 2-stage match trigger.

Being how I like to tinker with things, I do have a few questions.

1. From your experience, does a 20" barrel make a significant difference in reducing muzzle flip and quicker follow-up shots? Or is this a training issue, or combination of the two?

2. I'm running a red dot with BUIS. I sighted it in at 25 yards. Is this a pretty good zero? How many inches of drop would you typically get at 50 and 75 yards?

3. I also noticed I could feel the buffer spring compressing after the round was fired and the bolt was being blown back, and the vibrations from the spring. This felt kind of cheesy to me. Not that this affects performance, but for some reason I am adverse to it. It reminds me of the Berreta FS 92--I can feel the slide compressing the spring on that too. Does the spring tube need to be lubed or anything? Any idea on how I can make it feel smoother? Are all ARs like this or is it just a Stag thing? My tube is mil-spec I believe.

Edit: One more question. I noticed I had probably 2-3 failures to go into battery: where the bolt would not strip the first round from my 10/20 Magpul mags. Do stags not like plastic magpuls? I have the stock steel mag and didn't encounter a problem with it.

Thanks

wang949
12-02-2011, 7:44 PM
Replacing the flash hider with a muzzle break would help reduce felt recoil and muzzle climb.

GunzNHoses89
12-02-2011, 9:15 PM
Is the stag 3 muzzle break pinned on? It's 16 inches, so it shouldn't be, but it looks from underneath like it is...

zfields
12-02-2011, 9:18 PM
If your getting tons of "muzzle flip", I bet a big part of it is the way you are holding the rifle. 223 is not a high recoil round.

Yes a brake will help, but if you arent holding that sucker, it isnt going to help as much as it should. Also, most people zero there dots at either 50, or 100 yards.

smith629
12-02-2011, 10:33 PM
Is the stag 3 muzzle break pinned on? It's 16 inches, so it shouldn't be, but it looks from underneath like it is...

The muzzle break is however it comes from the factory.

Should you grip ARs tightly? I'm used to shooting springer air rifles and .22s that you grip lightly.

Also should a VG help?

Merc1138
12-02-2011, 10:55 PM
Yes, it makes a springy noise.
No, it's not broken.
Yes you can put grease and junk in there to quiet it down.
No, it isn't a good idea because you're just adding grease to an area that shouldn't be greased and extra crap can stick to it.
Yes, you will learn to live with it or get another rifle.

ejhc11
12-03-2011, 4:27 AM
Welcome to the world of ARs!

1) Nah, you don't need a muzzle brake, you just need to buy a surplus centerfire rifle, like an old Mosin Nagant. Holding it firmly on your shoulder will help, also a two point sling used like a brace will help you control it more also.

2) If you have a such a nice shooting range like the one in the pic I would set the targets out further - zero the red dot at 50yds and it'll take you out to 200yds. Puts some paper plate targets out there and hit them all day.

3) Generally most ARs make that spring noise in the stock, you can do a search in the forum on how some guys have quieted it down, but I would just leave it. Also, give this lubricant a try not for noise suppression just better lubrication. Slip 2000 at skdtac.com use coupon: SUCKIT
http://www.skdtac.com/SLIP2000-Gun-Lubricant-p/slp.104.htm

Magpuls work well it may be the 10rnd limiter in your mag.

And, lastly ARs are kinda of addictive to have a few around....:D
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac352/ejhc11/AR15/ARTriosmall.jpg

dieselpower
12-03-2011, 5:30 AM
1. From your experience, does a 20" barrel make a significant difference in reducing muzzle flip and quicker follow-up shots? Or is this a training issue, or combination of the two? It does tame it a little, but with experience you can get the same results.

2. I'm running a red dot with BUIS. I sighted it in at 25 yards. Is this a pretty good zero? How many inches of drop would you typically get at 50 and 75 yards? Ill post some of my charts for you to look at. The zero chart was stolen from another person, the Red Dot chart was mine.

3. I also noticed I could feel the buffer spring compressing after the round was fired and the bolt was being blown back, and the vibrations from the spring. This felt kind of cheesy to me. Not that this affects performance, but for some reason I am adverse to it. It reminds me of the Berreta FS 92--I can feel the slide compressing the spring on that too. Does the spring tube need to be lubed or anything? Any idea on how I can make it feel smoother? Are all ARs like this or is it just a Stag thing? My tube is mil-spec I believe. No thats a good thing. That is what tames the recoil of a 16" and how you will know something is wrong, as in a squib round has jammed the barrel or the magazine is empty and the BCG is locked back. Both of these conditions produce a different shooting experience and will alert you to an issue.

Edit: One more question. I noticed I had probably 2-3 failures to go into battery: where the bolt would not strip the first round from my 10/20 Magpul mags. Do stags not like plastic magpuls? I have the stock steel mag and didn't encounter a problem with it. With time those issues may fix themselves. A new rifle sometimes needs to work out the burs and parts need to wear into each other. Most failures are magazine related so you may need to buy a few to find one that doesnt cause a hick-up from time to time. Also sometimes there is no apparent reason for the failure...it just goes away. Thats why you train to clear them and go on shooting without freaking out about it. Its called Immediate Action. When the gun stops working am IA will not solve the problem you turn to Remedial Actions to fix the weapon. read my last two links. The Mil-spec trigger is the Mil-spec trigger...many people learn to deal with it as is. There are youtube vids showing "fixes" for it.


http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/Wiringguy/Zerobulletpaths.jpg


I like the longer 25 yard zero, I can adjust for closer shots when I need to. I just know my POI is above my POA. I like the fact I am not holding over the top of the target at longer ranges, which obscures my vision of the target.
http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/Wiringguy/25MzeroRDS.png

There is much to be said for aim and shoot POA=POI out to 200 yards. Not knocking it one bit, just not my choice with MY firearm.
http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/Wiringguy/50yardzerords.jpg