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View Full Version : How do you clean your stainless revolvers?


Lambchop
02-28-2007, 9:58 AM
I have a smith 686 and 629and cannot seem to get the cylinders clean. So far I have tried rubbing alcohol, clp, and blue wonder and nothing seems to work. I don't understand why it wont come clean, and being frustrated with it, I figured I should ask here before using something that would harm the gun.

JPN6336
02-28-2007, 11:10 AM
M-Pro 7 solvent works for my stainless guns. It easily takes off the carbon off the cylinder of my SuperRedhawk.

JPglee1
02-28-2007, 11:16 AM
I have a smith 686 and 629and cannot seem to get the cylinders clean. So far I have tried rubbing alcohol, clp, and blue wonder and nothing seems to work. I don't understand why it wont come clean, and being frustrated with it, I figured I should ask here before using something that would harm the gun.

0000 Steel Wool maybe?? Stainless brush maybe??

I use brake cleaner for everything, might wanna try that.


J

TMC
02-28-2007, 11:27 AM
Use Hoppes #9 and let is set a bit, after a few minutes you should be able to rub it off with a patch.

I wet the gun down and let is stand for a few minuted so the solvent can work. For the cylinder, run a soaked patch through each hole and let is soak, then a brush, if there is stubbon stuff I put a brush in a drill motor and run it in there until its clean. For the front of the cylinder soak it, use a stainless brush, and wipe is down solvent. I have to do that 2-3 times when my guns have around 500-600 rounds through them.

Once the gun is clean I hose it down with brake cleaner to get rid of the solvent.

naimad
02-28-2007, 11:40 AM
If your talking about the front of the cylinder i use kratex it works great makes it look new again :D

Californio
02-28-2007, 12:29 PM
Rig (Lead-Wipe) or one of the other brands, I just like Rig. Make sure to keep off blued parts, stainless only.

bu-bye
02-28-2007, 12:57 PM
I once saw this tv and tried it myself and sure enough it worked great. Just use an eraser to rub it off. Thats what I have used for years. Its cheap, clean, doesn't smell and easy to do. Hell, if you got kids just have them do it.:)

1911su16b870
02-28-2007, 12:58 PM
+1 on the lead away wipe products.

I use the kleenbore lead away swabs on the cylinder face of stainless revolvers and it removes all carbon rings/fouling. FWIW I wear gloves when I clean my firearms and handle any cleaning agents.

The SoCal Gunner
02-28-2007, 2:37 PM
Anybody have any recommendations for cleaning the surface of a p220st? I have Flitz and have used it with my XD bi-tone and other stainless guns but those had more of a polished finished already.

SnWnMe
02-28-2007, 2:59 PM
I use Hoppe's #9 and a brush inside, outside and infront of the cylinder. I used to be anal about how clean my cylinder faces were but that obsession got cured when I started shooting almost every weekend.

Ubergeek
02-28-2007, 3:56 PM
I use Flitz metal polish. It contains a mild abrasive though, but it does wonders for cleaning and shining up stainless.

timmy8151
02-28-2007, 4:27 PM
For normal cleaning on my cylinder face I also use an eraser. However, I had some tough stains and used a Lead removing cloth.

Also, I found Flitz worked wonders on my SS Ruger GP100. The difference in appearance was night and day after using it.

hi_desert
02-28-2007, 4:27 PM
0000 Steel Wool maybe?? Stainless brush maybe??

I use brake cleaner for everything, might wanna try that.


J

+1 on the very fine steel wool with Hoppes #9 . Restores the shine on my 686 every time.

metalhead357
02-28-2007, 7:23 PM
+1 on the lead away wipe products.

I use the kleenbore lead away swabs on the cylinder face of stainless revolvers and it removes all carbon rings/fouling. FWIW I wear gloves when I clean my firearms and handle any cleaning agents.

Another +1 for lead away products; I have actually had to use them on blued stuff too:eek: It'll work but you gotta be REAL easy. But its the tops for stainless......

ghideon
02-28-2007, 8:26 PM
I've soaked the front of the cylinder on my Blackhawk in Hoppes #9. Let it sit for about a day tho.

T-Bear
02-28-2007, 9:52 PM
A dap of Flitz and 5 min later it is all done.

Lambchop
02-28-2007, 9:54 PM
Thanks alot guys! The brake cleaner and the eraser worked great.

moulton
02-28-2007, 10:03 PM
I use Flitz metal polish. It contains a mild abrasive though, but it does wonders for cleaning and shining up stainless.

very mild abrasive on dremil pad, followed by polishing by dremilpad

five.five-six
02-28-2007, 10:13 PM
A dap of Flitz and 5 min later it is all done.

if you are talking about the ring inside the cylinder at the edge of the casing, so you have two rings, one for .38spcl and one for .357, well I have tried everything listed save flitz, what is it?

let me know if you find somthig that works

SVTNate
02-28-2007, 11:51 PM
Flitz is a metal polish, and it works great on stainless guns. After a lot of research and hand-wringing, I actually used it on my factory nickel Colt Python, and it cleaned up the nickel very nicely. Of course, it works great on stainless revolvers as well.

I wonder if it would be bad for a bead-blasted stainless gun, but for your standard S&W/Ruger revolvers, it won't alter the appearance.

jlbflyboy172
03-01-2007, 12:26 PM
A buddy of mine says he puts his stainless guns in the dishwasher (less rubber or wood parts) and then takes em out drys them off, oils them up and says they are good to go. He swears by it. I am not sure if he is just pulling my leg. I have never heard of that but he seems to be serious. Anyone else ever heard of that or had any success doing it?

SVTNate
03-01-2007, 1:01 PM
I don't see how that would remove the burnt-on fouling around the forcing cone, or the cylinder face. Furthermore, it would trap water inside the cylinder and the ejector rod assembly, and fail to clean the charging holes or the bore.

I think your friend has a very, very low standard for "clean".

guimus
03-01-2007, 1:50 PM
wait. Y'all mean to tell me that you CLEAN your revolvers???

Ninja45
03-02-2007, 1:03 PM
JB Bore Cleaner is a paste like substance that will liquify as you use it. Brownell's carries it, so does your local gun shop. Great for cleaning barrels, forcing cones, and any surface with carbon or lead deposits.

Ninja45

rivviepop
03-15-2008, 7:13 PM
(digging up an old thread)

Anyone aware of a cleaner that is more like toothpaste, doesn't smell (too much), and can be left on for a long time? I.e. you can spread it on the face of a cylinder or the front/top strap, let it sit for hours in a closed space and come back later to wipe it off, all the carbon is gone? (this would be for caked-on baked-on thousands of rounds carbon/lead fouling)

I pick up used revolvers like this more often than not (sadly, way too common) and would love to cut the initial just-brought-home cleaning time & effort down. As it is I use most of the products mentioned in this thread and a lot of elbow grease with brass brushes.

(the smell part is important, can't be air-toxic to pets left in the same enclosed space)

loosewreck
03-15-2008, 7:41 PM
I've tried lots of solvents but always came back to #9 with hours-days of soaking and bronze brush, until I discovered their Elite line of products. It's like soaking with #9, but you just have to wait minutes not days. This stuff really works as advertised and is non toxic with barely any odor (I do miss the #9 smell though).

Hoppes Elite Bore Gel (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=264513&t=11082005)
Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=130696&t=11082005)

rivviepop
03-15-2008, 8:12 PM
I've tried lots of solvents but always came back to #9 with hours-days of soaking and bronze brush, until I discovered their Elite line of products. It's like soaking with #9, but you just have to wait minutes not days. This stuff really works as advertised and is non toxic with barely any odor (I do miss the #9 smell though).

Hoppes Elite Bore Gel (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=264513&t=11082005)
Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=130696&t=11082005)

Awesome, thanks - I'll keep an eye out for it locally, see if I can't spot it now that I know the bottle. Always willing to give new stuff a try...

loosewreck
03-15-2008, 8:19 PM
Awesome, thanks - I'll keep an eye out for it locally, see if I can't spot it now that I know the bottle. Always willing to give new stuff a try...

:cheers2:
Glad I could help. BTW if you get the spray, try to get the largest bottle you can find, you'll find yourself using it for other types of metal cleaning.

saki302
03-15-2008, 8:20 PM
If you want to get the inside of the cylinders clean, sometimes it takes a stainless brush.
JB bore cleaner will do it too, but it takes MANY passes.

The eraser method does work great for the outside.

I clean them 'good enough'- which means powder residue gone, and the outside clean e nough to function. I figure anything beyond that will be moot after the next 5 rounds are fired.

I also avoid lead loads- those are a byotch to clean, and don't offset the savings, IMO. Stick with FMJ or even TMJ.

-Dave

rivviepop
03-15-2008, 8:23 PM
Glad I could help. BTW if you get the spray, try to get the largest bottle you can find, you'll find yourself using it for other types of metal cleaning.

Knowing me I'll go for the liquid - having tried both styles, my cleaning methods are more conducive to the liquids that I can squirt on q-tips and patches...with sprays I just make a big ol' mess. Unless.... can I degrease my motorbike chain with it? :) (kidding)

rivviepop
03-15-2008, 8:28 PM
If you want to get the inside of the cylinders clean, sometimes it takes a stainless brush.

Funny you mention, I just picked up a stainless chamber brush this afternoon, because...

I also avoid lead loads- those are a byotch to clean, and don't offset the savings, IMO. Stick with FMJ or even TMJ.

...I came by 13 or so boxes of Remington +P 38's which are lead hollowpoint (or so they call them) for $10/bx. I'm using them up at the range, but yeah - discovering what a b*tch they are to clean up after. Another 6 boxes or so left, then I'm done - everything else is TMJ/FMJ/JHP in the ammo pile. They're really hot so I'm only firing them out of 357's (just in case), which is fouling up my chambers pretty bad.

saki302
03-15-2008, 11:31 PM
Haha- I love the nice hole lead wadcutters make, but I hate cleaning up after them :D
Someone needs to design a jacketed wadcutter...

-Dave

moulton
03-16-2008, 12:09 AM
Slip 2000 Carbon Killer, If you get the big jar you can just submerse the whole cylinder in it and let it sit for 15 minutes. After that wipe it off and vuala, bright and shiney ;).

Spearo
03-16-2008, 11:01 PM
I remove the grip, spray my revolver down with MPRO 7, let it sit for 20-30min, and then scrub the cylinder with a bronze brush. Most residue will be removed.

JTROKS
03-17-2008, 7:25 AM
First I strip it down to this

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh257/joshuatroy/DSC01052.jpg

Then I commence cleaning.


LOL! Joking. That's after so many years of shooting thousands of rounds and a few years in storage. My regular cleaning is Hoppes 9, a gun scrubber, a Lewis lead remover kit, bronze and hard bristle brush.

Turbinator
03-17-2008, 2:59 PM
Hey, all you guys who use an abrasive material on the front of the cylinder face.. aren't you worried that over time you're going to increase the cylinder gap? Maybe not after 1 or 2 polishings, but say after 10 years of routine polishing and removal of metal...

Turby

bwiese
03-17-2008, 4:24 PM
I clean them 'good enough'- which means powder residue gone, and the outside clean e nough to function. I figure anything beyond that will be moot after the next 5 rounds are fired.

Yeah, most people overclean their guns. I'd bet more guns are ruined from overcleaning than undercleaning - esp when abrasives and steel brushes and metal cleaning rods get involved.

I use a green Scotchbrite pad dipped in CLP to scrub my cylinder fronts and under the topstrap area.

I use Hoppe's #9 for the bore in revolvers, but CLP in autoloader bbls as I sometimes shoot lead in revolvers and Hoppe's seems better for that.



I also avoid lead loads- those are a byotch to clean, and don't offset the savings, IMO. Stick with FMJ or even TMJ.

Hard-cast lead isn't too bad. With my buddy Felonious Phil's reloads, the gun appears to be dirty mostly from case lube, but cleans up easily.

rivviepop
03-17-2008, 10:30 PM
Just posted this over on the revolver porn thread, y'all gave me the idea for this. Sure, you can clean it "well enough", but me - I like 'em purty. Next time they go bang, we start all over again. Took me around 2.5hrs to get all the caked on carbon off (this is one of the ones I picked up that looked like it hadn't ever been cleaned). Of course I shot it up at the range yesterday first. :)

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/rivviepop/snv10672_800.jpg

loosewreck
03-17-2008, 11:38 PM
WOW! Thats beautiful, gun, cleaning job and the pic. Sweet!!!

supersonic
03-18-2008, 12:11 AM
I've tried lots of solvents but always came back to #9 with hours-days of soaking and bronze brush, until I discovered their Elite line of products. It's like soaking with #9, but you just have to wait minutes not days. This stuff really works as advertised and is non toxic with barely any odor (I do miss the #9 smell though).

Hoppes Elite Bore Gel (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=264513&t=11082005)
Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=130696&t=11082005)

+100% The stuff is amazing. I know what you mean by missing the #9 smell. Or, you can do what M.E.'s do when they have to recover decomposing bodies: instead of Vick's Vapor-Rub, just smear a little #9 under each nostril before each gun cleaning session!!!!;)

p.s.-joking -- rubbing Hoppe's Old No. 9 ANYWHERE on your face would probably be a bad idea.:eek:

loosewreck
03-18-2008, 3:25 AM
LOL!
Yeah, I strongly suggest everyone gives the Hoppes Elite series of products a try, the stuff is pretty revolutionary.
Another great product is Gunbutter.
In terms of smell, Breakfree CLP is starting to grow on me, I used to hate the stuff, now it kind of reminds me of Jack'n'Coke (I'm not sure why):D.

FatOnCoke
03-18-2008, 11:59 AM
LOL!
Yeah, I strongly suggest everyone gives the Hoppes Elite series of products a try, the stuff is pretty revolutionary.
Another great product is Gunbutter.
In terms of smell, Breakfree CLP is starting to grow on me, I used to hate the stuff, now it kind of reminds me of Jack'n'Coke (I'm not sure why):D.

I had a full bottle of Hoppe's #9 tipped over on my carpet. I must have lost 10 IQ points from the fume. :D

rivviepop
03-18-2008, 2:30 PM
I had a full bottle of Hoppe's #9 tipped over on my carpet. I must have lost 10 IQ points from the fume. :D

Was that the normal stuff? The "Black Label" (in my pic) is even worse, it's a more syrupy type of liquid and the smell is at least twice as worse from all the ammonia in it.... two large windows have to be open while I'm cleaning.