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View Full Version : My 80% AR15 Recipe: $711 to date


choprzrul
11-26-2011, 2:28 PM
Finally decided to jump into the EBR. Black Friday helped a bit & I am hoping everything works together. Here is what I have ordered so far:

Colfax Tactical (https://www.colfaxtactical.com/Products.html) 80% lower + Jig + Bullet Button = $255 including shipping & sales tax
https://www.colfaxtactical.com/anodized.jpg
https://www.colfaxtactical.com/Top%20plate%20holes.jpg
https://www.colfaxtactical.com/bullet%20button.jpg


DTI M4 16" Flat Top from Elite Tactical Components (http://www.elitetacticalcomponents.com/dti-ar-15-16-complete-upper-1-9-twist-chrome-moly-dt1009-s?gclid=CJ3ew-uc1awCFYUbQgodbjytpg) $359.98 delivered:
http://www.elitetacticalcomponents.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x800/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/i/file_4.gif

Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit (http://palmettostatearmory.com/1633.php) $96.99 delivered

http://palmettostatearmory.com/images/1633.jpg

$255 lower & jig
$360 upper
$97 lower kit

$711.97 total so far

Besides a rear sight, what else do I need to finish this project? Did I do OK on parts prices and compatibility?

Comments? First time doing this, should be exciting.

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h0use
11-26-2011, 2:55 PM
Not to bad!

Agent Tikki
11-26-2011, 4:22 PM
Magazines, ammo, ammo and more ammo.

Since your are going to order from PSA anyhow, why not give a serious look at their rifle kits and skip the Dti Upper. If you are just looking to go thw cheapest possible route, get a ready made lower and bullet button. You'll save about $100. Look into a Precision Aero lower from a local shop or PSA's $50 lower. Going with an 80% lower is amibitious and commendable but if its your first attempt its a risky and an unecessary complexity. That being said my first two ARs were from 80%ers. But I went that route because I really wanted an AR pistol.......

wash
11-26-2011, 4:45 PM
If you haven't bought yet, for about $105 more, you could get the PSA 16" lightweight mid-length hammer forged and chrome lined upper.

The mid-length gas system is an upgrade and I like the barrel profiles better than the M4 cut on that DTI. It's chrome lined, good stuff.

If you can find a machine shop that does AR build parties, CNC for the fire control pocket is the way to go. You won't have to invest in a jig so it will save money as well as give you a nicer finished product.

Distro
11-26-2011, 4:49 PM
Only thing I would have changed is going the 80% route, for $225 you could have gotten a higher end already made lower or good average priced lower and used the extra for other parts or ammo. Building your first AR is fun enough, 80%'s for a rifle configuration are a lot more fun after your first AR imo, or when using them for a pistol build.

If you really just wanted to completely build your own AR, skip the FFL process, have access to the tools to complete the lower and price vs value wasn't an issue, then enjoy the satisfaction of building it from an 80 and post pics when your done.

Edit: Browsing through SlickGuns shows that upper(I think) comes in a complete rifle kit (Upper + parts kit + everything else needed - lower) for about $412 with the code BLACKRIFLE11 directly from Del-Ton, not sure if that is a better deal.

http://www.del-ton.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RKT100&CartID=1

http://i.imgur.com/2GVr1.png

choprzrul
11-26-2011, 5:50 PM
Good link. Ran through it, and when I added some std pieces like the bolt and carrier the price went up a ways.

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Only thing I would have changed is going the 80% route, for $225 you could have gotten a higher end already made lower or good average priced lower and used the extra for other parts or ammo. Building your first AR is fun enough, 80%'s for a rifle configuration are a lot more fun after your first AR imo, or when using them for a pistol build.

If you really just wanted to completely build your own AR, skip the FFL process, have access to the tools to complete the lower and price vs value wasn't an issue, then enjoy the satisfaction of building it from an 80 and post pics when your done.

Edit: Browsing through SlickGuns shows that upper(I think) comes in a complete rifle kit (Upper + parts kit + everything else needed - lower) for about $412 with the code BLACKRIFLE11 directly from Del-Ton, not sure if that is a better deal.

http://www.del-ton.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RKT100&CartID=1

http://i.imgur.com/2GVr1.png

animossity
11-26-2011, 7:04 PM
Isn't there a complete AR with an Aimpoint PRO off PSA's site for $999?

What's the jig for? I built my first AR without one just curious what they're for.

MrPlink
11-26-2011, 9:04 PM
Isn't there a complete AR with an Aimpoint PRO off PSA's site for $999?

What's the jig for? I built my first AR without one just curious what they're for.


Its a guide to mill out the 80% receiver.

they look like this in their 80% form
http://www.vbd.com/noc/images/products/242162255.jpg

and since I know what the follow up question is:

80% receivers allow for a legally home built gun, as such it does not need to be DROS'd through an FFL. It requires no markings or serial number or registration of any sort. It is also one of the paths to legally acquire an AR pistol in California.

choprzrul
11-27-2011, 12:24 AM
Its a guide to mill out the 80% receiver.

they look like this in their 80% form
http://www.vbd.com/noc/images/products/242162255.jpg

and since I know what the follow up question is:

80% receivers allow for a legally home built gun, as such it does not need to be DROS'd through an FFL. It requires no markings or serial number or registration of any sort. It is also one of the paths to legally acquire an AR pistol in California.

My local gunsmith was completely ignorant of this until I educated him this afternoon. Subsequent to that conversation, I found out that he might be selling his mill in the not to distant future.:D

.

MrPlink
11-27-2011, 3:39 AM
My local gunsmith was completely ignorant of this until I educated him this afternoon. Subsequent to that conversation, I found out that he might be selling his mill in the not to distant future.:D

.


Its a lot of fun.

My buddy just got divorced and lost his work shop, so being the good friend that I am I gave him a room in my house, and told him he can re-setup his shop in the garage :D

slo5oh
11-27-2011, 10:08 AM
PSA has complete lowers for $49 right now.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/1560.php

Not trying to talk anyone OUT of completing their own 80% lower, just saying...

choprzrul
11-27-2011, 11:15 AM
PSA has complete lowers for $49 right now.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/1560.php

Not trying to talk anyone OUT of completing their own 80% lower, just saying...

Won't be long and they will be giving them away as advertising promotional items!

.

MrPlink
11-27-2011, 2:32 PM
PSA has complete lowers for $49 right now.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/1560.php

Not trying to talk anyone OUT of completing their own 80% lower, just saying...

I think you missed the point of a 80% altogether
not to mention, after shipping, tax, and transfer fees the PSA lower is about as expensive as buying one locally

ohlone
11-27-2011, 3:22 PM
it isn't worth to buy lower online, the transfer fee will kill all the deals, local buy is always better.

my 80% lower receipt is as follow
80% $70
tooling fee $30
PSA lower part kit $45
pistol buffer tube $25
DSA 11 inch upper $275
PSA BCG + charging handle $100
BB $20
a junk carry handle use for now $25
buffer and spring $30

RLTW
11-27-2011, 10:22 PM
Mr. Plink said it:

I think you missed the point of a 80% altogether
not to mention, after shipping, tax, and transfer fees the PSA lower is about as expensive as buying one locally

As well as you can have it as a Pistol.

Initial cost of buying everything (lower's and JIG) is higher than buying a pre made lower, but for future builds you come out way ahead.

Not to mention actually building an AR instead of just putting parts already made together.

Great Job:oji:

choprzrul
11-28-2011, 1:16 AM
Mr. Plink said it:



As well as you can have it as a Pistol.

Initial cost of buying everything (lower's and JIG) is higher than buying a pre made lower, but for future builds you come out way ahead.

Not to mention actually building an AR instead of just putting parts already made together.

Great Job:oji:

I am looking forward to milling the lower. I really don't have the correct machinery (mill), but I welcome the challenge. I made the caliper mounts for a set of Wilwood sprint car calipers that are mounted on my scooter (avatar) from scratch with a mill.

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MrPlink
11-28-2011, 2:13 AM
I am looking forward to milling the lower. I really don't have the correct machinery (mill), but I welcome the challenge. I made the caliper mounts for a set of Wilwood sprint car calipers that are mounted on my scooter (avatar) from scratch with a mill.

.

can be done without one, obviously just takes more time (perhaps A LOT more)
first one I did was primarily with a drill press. A drill press with a X-Y table will give you artificially something rather similar

choprzrul
11-28-2011, 8:33 AM
can be done without one, obviously just takes more time (perhaps A LOT more)
first one I did was primarily with a drill press. A drill press with a X-Y table will give you artificially something rather similar

This (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cross-slide-vise-32997.html) is what I ordered. The spindle on my drill press is tight with no side play, so I should be able to get it done if I go slow.

What RPM did you use on your drill press?

.

wash
11-28-2011, 8:48 AM
My advise is go slow and leave maybe 0.010" to clean up with a dremel.

If you have a steady hand you might wind up with something that looks decent.

Most of the drill press done AR lowers I've seen look like they were attacked by an angry beaver.

CNC comes out real nice...

choprzrul
11-28-2011, 9:10 AM
My advise is go slow and leave maybe 0.010" to clean up with a dremel.

If you have a steady hand you might wind up with something that looks decent.

Most of the drill press done AR lowers I've seen look like they were attacked by an angry beaver.

CNC comes out real nice...

Serious question: does the '...attacked by an angry beaver...' look effect function at all? Can it be seen when the rifle is fully assembled in a firing condition?

How critical are the measurements of the FCG well? Is there anything that needs to be within a few .001" for fit & function?

.

wash
11-28-2011, 9:33 AM
For function, probably not but for cleaning and pride of ownership, it doesn't do anything good.

If the trigger slot is messed up, you will be able to see it from the outside.

I've seen some that were cut too much and expose the magazine catch slot from the FCG pocket. That might not be a problem but it's not pretty.

A CNC or good manually milled lower will be indistinguishable from a factory made lower except for the anodizing. I have a couple that were hard coat anodized before I milled them and it just takes a few dabs with a Birtchwood Casey black pen to make it look great on the outside. I might see if I can black the whole pocket but I haven't tried that yet.

choprzrul
11-30-2011, 1:16 PM
For function, probably not but for cleaning and pride of ownership, it doesn't do anything good.

If the trigger slot is messed up, you will be able to see it from the outside.

I've seen some that were cut too much and expose the magazine catch slot from the FCG pocket. That might not be a problem but it's not pretty.

A CNC or good manually milled lower will be indistinguishable from a factory made lower except for the anodizing. I have a couple that were hard coat anodized before I milled them and it just takes a few dabs with a Birtchwood Casey black pen to make it look great on the outside. I might see if I can black the whole pocket but I haven't tried that yet.

Upon closer inspection, I think that I am going to run 2 braces from my drill press to the wall for some triangular stability. I am also going to put 3 cement blocks on the base to help also. The less the drill press moves around, the better the milling result I believe.

Am I correct?

.

Nathan Krynn
11-30-2011, 2:21 PM
Upon closer inspection, I think that I am going to run 2 braces from my drill press to the wall for some triangular stability. I am also going to put 3 cement blocks on the base to help also. The less the drill press moves around, the better the milling result I believe.

Am I correct?

.

If you try to mill with a drill press it is a good way to have a sharp object moving at high speeds fly out and rip your lungs out of your chest.

Just because you have a XY table your drill press is not a mill. Drill press chucks are held on by a tapper pin that with too much (not much at all) pressure will give and send the chuck and end mill flying.

Drill your holes and play connect the dots on a drill press please.

choprzrul
11-30-2011, 5:44 PM
Now, when you say to 'drill my holes and connect the dots...', are you saying NOT to use a mill at all?

What rpm should the mill be running?

.

icenix
11-30-2011, 6:06 PM
Finally decided to jump into the EBR. Black Friday helped a bit & I am hoping everything works together. Here is what I have ordered so far:

Colfax Tactical (https://www.colfaxtactical.com/Products.html) 80% lower + Jig + Bullet Button = $255 including shipping & sales tax
https://www.colfaxtactical.com/anodized.jpg
https://www.colfaxtactical.com/Top%20plate%20holes.jpg
https://www.colfaxtactical.com/bullet%20button.jpg


DTI M4 16" Flat Top from Elite Tactical Components (http://www.elitetacticalcomponents.com/dti-ar-15-16-complete-upper-1-9-twist-chrome-moly-dt1009-s?gclid=CJ3ew-uc1awCFYUbQgodbjytpg) $359.98 delivered:
http://www.elitetacticalcomponents.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x800/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/i/file_4.gif

Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit (http://palmettostatearmory.com/1633.php) $96.99 delivered

http://palmettostatearmory.com/images/1633.jpg

$255 lower & jig
$360 upper
$97 lower kit

$711.97 total so far

Besides a rear sight, what else do I need to finish this project? Did I do OK on parts prices and compatibility?

Comments? First time doing this, should be exciting.

.

More power to you for trying to do a lot of the work from 80%. I am looking to just buying an AR in 1-2 pieces or all together and I can't seem to get anywhere, lol.

MrPlink
11-30-2011, 11:19 PM
This (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cross-slide-vise-32997.html) is what I ordered. The spindle on my drill press is tight with no side play, so I should be able to get it done if I go slow.

What RPM did you use on your drill press?

.

couldnt honestly tell you. It was two years ago and got access to a mill about half way through

If you try to mill with a drill press it is a good way to have a sharp object moving at high speeds fly out and rip your lungs out of your chest.

Just because you have a XY table your drill press is not a mill. Drill press chucks are held on by a tapper pin that with too much (not much at all) pressure will give and send the chuck and end mill flying.

.

makes perfect sense now that I think about it, wish I knew this 2 years back!
Guess we got lucky

Nathan Krynn
12-01-2011, 7:22 AM
Now, when you say to 'drill my holes and connect the dots...', are you saying NOT to use a mill at all?

What rpm should the mill be running?

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Not in the least.

If you have a mill then mill away. Drill the 3 holes and then mill the FCG.

What I was saying is if you have a drill press then don't try and use it as a mill.

Mils can cut on all three axis X,Y, and Z.

Drill press are designed to only cut on the Z axis.