View Full Version : Do you crimp your reload for Garand?

02-22-2007, 5:02 PM
I'm planning to load 49gr of WC846 behind 150gr spitzer for my Garand enbloc clip. Do you crimp your reload to prevent bullet(COL change) movement in between shots?

02-22-2007, 6:24 PM
Only if there is a cannelure, if not they I rely on neck tension alone.

I take it one step further and save headstamps with strong neck tension for use with bullets that do not have a cannelure.

02-22-2007, 7:11 PM
I wouldn't, even if it did have a cannelure.

Also, if you use a modern 30cal bullet, even if it has a cannelure, it may not be ideal to seat the bullet to that depth for the Garand. Case in point are the bulk Hornady 150gr FMJBT. They have a cannelure, but if you seat them to that depth, they are going to be a lot shorter in COL. If you compare them to M2 surplus, you will notice a huge difference. I seat the Hornady 150gr FMJBT to the same base to ogive length as Greek HXP. Granted, it would be perfectly safe to seat those Hornadys to the cannelure for the Garand, but you would have a huge jump to lands, and that won't do much for accuracy.

02-22-2007, 7:11 PM
No. Never. Even with cannelure present. That is because I know where my bullet sits in relation to the lands, and I seat the bullet to where I want it in/near the lands. This is true more so for my bolt guns, but also for my Garand when I shoot heavy/long bullets. When I shoot for service rifle match practice, I use Greek ammo when I can and not reloads.

If you have no idea what your throat length is, and you have no idea what the relationship is between the bullet ogive and the lands, then putting a crimp on may help with consistency. If you can measure, at the target, a decrease in group size when crimping, then definitely do it. The change you are most likely to see is a reduction in vertical stringing.

I hope this helps!

BTW - Check your powder/primer/bullet costs against CMP Greek ammo. You may find it cheaper to not reload if you buy powder in onesies and prime bullets (like Sierras).

02-22-2007, 7:26 PM
Also, after reading the other post, do remember that not all 150gr bullets are the same. Ogives and BC's vary. Spitzers or boat tails. Just look at M80 and M2. One's 147 and one's 150 - nominally the same by weight. But two different beasts entirely. M2 is flat base (basically) and M80's a boat tail.

If you do want to crimp, I would suggest emulating M2 as close as possible so as to avoid the previously mentioned Hornady jump. It's not real likely with a 150gr bullet, but the opposite could happen - a length increase. That could be bad. Also, since M2 is what the Garand was made for, emulating it can't be a terrible idea.

02-22-2007, 7:30 PM
I don't crimp any rifle loads.....

02-22-2007, 7:59 PM
I don't crimp any rifle loads.....

So, you don't shoot any 30-30 then... ;)

02-22-2007, 9:33 PM
I don't crimp any rifle loads either. What's a 30- 30??? Is that some kinda russian round??:rolleyes:

02-22-2007, 9:38 PM
So why do the die makers go through all of the trouble to put a crimp shoulder in the seating die if no one is going to use it?

It kind of reminds me of seat belts in cars, they have had them for a long time but haven't been real popular until maybe the last 25 years or so.

02-22-2007, 10:16 PM
So why do the die makers go through all of the trouble to put a crimp shoulder in the seating die if no one is going to use it?

Well, the crimp shoulder has been part of die design since the inception of reloading, so there isn't really a reason to produce the die without a crimp mechanism. Leave it up to the reloader to decide whether or not to incorporate it.

Crimp is obviously still used in pistol, primarily to get rid of the belling of the neck. You also still need to crimp for case loads where you bell the neck as well.

But as far as crimp for modern centerfire in a bolt or semi auto, there is no need to.

People loading for pure accuracy have realized that no crimp is better for accuracy, and is still safe for the specific applications.

02-22-2007, 11:01 PM
I crimp my revolver rounds so they don't pull out from recoil and I crimp my rifle bullets so they don't get pushed into the case or fall out; it happens.

02-23-2007, 5:30 AM
I only crimp pistol. I load for only 9mm, .40S&W, and .45ACP in pistol (and 7TCU which is technically pistol), and I only crimp those because it calls for taper crimp.

Crimping rifle is just killing your accuracy for no reason. I've only had one bullet setback and that was with USGI M193 back in the late 1990s when I had a misfeed in a Colt Sporter Lightweight from a worn out mag. Bullet stripped off the mag funny and the tip hit the lug recess, and pushed the bullet in. Of course, this was a jam. I simply ejected the round. That ammo was crimped.

You'll be hard pressed to find a match bullet that is cannelured.

Even the military made a big deal about cannelured bullets when they spec'ed out MK262 ammo. The originally went with Nosler, whose 77gr bullet actually showed better terminal ballistics. But since Nosler wouldn't produce a bullet with a cannelure (they eventually did long after the military went with Sierra), the military switched to Sierra because Sierra was first to add a cannelure to their own 77gr bullet (Match King). But, for all purposes, that cannelure on the cannelured 77gr SMKs is cosmetic at best. If you ever get your hands on cannelured 77gr Sierra Match Kings, take a look at it. It is not a traditional cannelure in the jacket. It's more of a slight imprint of cannelure grooves. So slight that you wouldn't even think to put a crimp into it for fear of deforming the jacket. The crimp you would put on this bullet is also going to be slight, so negliible, that it won't do anything to keep the bullet from moving. Anything that would be enough to cause the bullet to move past the force of neck tension won't be contained by that crimp.

02-23-2007, 4:06 PM
I crimp my rifle bullets so they don't get pushed into the case or fall out; it happens.
Try sizing the case so that you end up with a neck inside diameter ~3 to 4 thousandths less than the bullet diameter. You won't need to crimp, your loading speed increases, and your loaded rounds are more consistent. If you still feel some kind of need to crimp, seat the bullet and crimp in separate operations.

If bullets can be pushed into the case, buy a smaller neck sizing plug. If bullets fall out, you have some serious inconsistencies in either your sizing operation or quality of your bullets.


02-25-2007, 7:43 AM
I crimp my pistol rounds and tube fed rifle, but not my for garand. I used to, but a better shooter advise me not to crimp (especially with match bullets). I haven't noticed any difference, for what it is worth.