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View Full Version : Doh! stripped the threads on my Midwest Rail. New Rail?


jingerale
10-13-2011, 11:12 AM
edit: Just called MI and they are sending me a new FF, Holy crap! Really? I did mention it is my fault for stripping it and I am not looking for anything free. Apparently there is a new, improved version of this FF. SWEET!

So I cerakoted my receivers and was putting my AR back together. For some dumb reason, I stripped the threads on the free float, where you install that screw/set screw which secures the free float to one of the indentation on the barrel nut.

So I guess the question is, can I run it without that screw?


http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj28/jinws/SS.jpg

Thanks

jetspeedz
10-13-2011, 11:49 AM
Yes you can run it without the set screw b/c you have two other means of preventing it from backing out; threadlocker, jam nut. The set screw is really the third line of defense to prevent it from back out. Check out my signature for the install guide on the SS-series. M.I.'s customer service is as good as they come.

cheers

cabinetguy
10-13-2011, 12:03 PM
i wonder if helicoil inserts would work for this

jetspeedz
10-13-2011, 12:05 PM
It should, I don't see why it would not if done properly.

tacticalcity
10-13-2011, 12:09 PM
I've done that on one of their other style forends. Was a little frustrating but not too hard to fix.

jingerale
10-13-2011, 12:14 PM
It should, I don't see why it would not if done properly.

Thanks for the reply!

Since MI is going to take care of my mistake, which I appreciate, I guess this is a non-problem. Definitely lesson learned.

The set screw I think is the only thing I don't like about this FF. If I install that screw first, the rail on top does not line up with the receiver. I think this might be why/how I stripped the threads, I lined the top rail first, which misaligned the indent in the nut to the set screw.

jetspeedz
10-13-2011, 12:19 PM
The set screw should be put in last once you have the top rail lined up with the receiver. The barrel nut I received did not have indentations for the set screw which is why they only want you to hand tighten it so you do no damage the treads. Take a look at the video and let me know if that is the same barrel nut you received.

peter95
10-13-2011, 12:24 PM
Nice!!!

jingerale
10-13-2011, 12:34 PM
The set screw should be put in last once you have the top rail lined up with the receiver. The barrel nut I received did not have indentations for the set screw which is why they only want you to hand tighten it so you do no damage the treads. Take a look at the video and let me know if that is the same barrel nut you received.

I'll check when I get home, but I could've swore from the instructions I got before, you install the set screw first, as the round tip of the screw matches up into an indent on the nut. I thought the indents were aligned to the gas tube ports in the nut, which would ensure that the set screw is exactly 180 degree from the gas tube.

h0use
10-13-2011, 12:36 PM
Can't you re tap the threads?

jetspeedz
10-13-2011, 12:39 PM
I'll check when I get home, but I could've swore from the instructions I got before, you install the set screw first, as the round tip of the screw matches up into an indent on the nut. I thought the indents were aligned to the gas tube ports in the nut, which would ensure that the set screw is exactly 180 degree from the gas tube.

You might have got a different barrel nut i got one not long ago for the review and it did not have an indent. The rails are not all made to spec so to align the gas tube ports you need to do it manually so there is not set position since not all uppers are made the same and could be off a little due to the forging process.

Justintoxicated
10-13-2011, 12:39 PM
helicoil it.

FMJBT
10-13-2011, 3:43 PM
helicoil it.

On the older version of the SS forend, there may not be enough metal to helicoil. The hole is threaded into the tube itself, with no raised portion to extend the thead depth like the newer forends. IIRC, the threads are only about 3/32" to 1/8" deep.

jingerale
10-13-2011, 6:34 PM
On the older version of the SS forend, there may not be enough metal to helicoil. The hole is threaded into the tube itself, with no raised portion to extend the thead depth like the newer forends. IIRC, the threads are only about 3/32" to 1/8" deep.

this. my forend is just that, a couple threads, no raised material. I purchased this awhile ago.

Anyway, MI is going to send me a new one, current design. Hopefully I don't have to re-install the barrel nut.

Thanks everyone, and thanks MI for kick *** service.

FMJBT
10-13-2011, 7:44 PM
Good to hear that MI is hooking you up. Always nice to see a company with great products back it up with great customer service as well. I'm glad they changed the design of that anti rotation screw also. That was my only complaint about the SS series rails. The newer versions have much better thread engagement. Just be careful not to overtighten the screw as the new version uses a set screw instead of a headed screw. When they say "Hand tight", I think they mean "Finger tight". I put a little too much "oomph" into mine and obliterated the top of the set screw on mine :facepalm: Hope I never have to take this one off :) I have the older version on the rifle I built for my wife. Screw stripped out after a few hundred rounds and fell out. I just jammed everything back together with a ton of locktite and all has been okay since then, but again, I hope I never have to remove it for any reason....


Old style:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4930221911_1af7596d31_z.jpg

New style with machined boss for set crew:
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6107/6225112896_6235b537cc_z.jpg