View Full Version : DPMS TAC20 Scope Question
10-12-2011, 11:00 AM
I have a DPMS 308 TAC20 with the A2 front sight and removable (from Picantinny rail) rear sight. It has thus far been a great rifle to shoot at the range to 100 yards. My 100 yard groups off a box are about 3 ½” wide with the iron sights. Now I want to explore the fun of a scope and I’m interested in a 4-24X45MM version. So question is, if the front A2 is not removable, do I: 1) attached the scope to the in place rear sight carry handle, OR 2) remove the rear sight/carry handle and install the scope on rings on the Picantinny rail?
How is the scope affected by the remaining A2? The sales person informed me at the time I purchased the gun that mounting a scope would not be a problem with the A2. Boy I hope that is true.
Yep, I know, I need to replace the lower with a CA off-list item before I return. I've already contacted Tactical Machining for help.
10-12-2011, 12:06 PM
Mount the scope to the rail not the carry handle. You shouldn't see the fsb with 4x magnification so don't bother taking it off
10-12-2011, 12:41 PM
not the carry handle
10-12-2011, 1:13 PM
Thanks so much guys - appreciated.
You won't notice the A2 in the scope, once you get accustomed to it. I have a couple of the same rifles. I use one as is and the other has a 3.5X10 MK4. Unless you are buying a high dollar scope, I would go with a bit less power and stay around 10x or 14x. They tend to get shaky, fuzzy and the heat waves play hell with them. The rifle should do moa or close to it with match ammo, But mine won't do better than 1 1/2 (or worse) with good surplus ammo.
10-12-2011, 5:50 PM
I wanted to try shooting at about 500 yards and thought I needed the +14 power magnification. Why only to 10 or 14 power?
For 600 meter a good quality 14x is plenty and on a hot day they show less heat mirage. The higher powers are not the greatest for dim/low light conditions either. Your rifle is good to 600+ meters, but its not a benchrest rifle. It will hold its own with most bolt guns that don't have tons of work done. I see too many guys who think they can buy a good 24X scope for $300. Sorry, you get what you pay for in glass (no free lunch). If you are going to spend over $1000 on a scope, thats entry level for a decent 6.5x20x50. If you want to see the holes on your target buy a good spotting scope.
The question you have to ask yourself is, "how often are you shooting at more than 300 meters"?
TM308 lower is good to go, take the parts out of your old one and stick them in the new one.
As far as scopes go what's your budget?
10-13-2011, 6:56 AM
Hoop, I think that is exactly what BKTJ is getting at. I'm at the lower end of the scope budget say $350. As he suggested, I should not expect to get clarity for a 24x magnification. I think I'll take the advice and stay around the 14x for my first scope.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
A fact to live with is that when it comes to scopes, there is always something better and always the one you really want (just out of your budget). Sort of like cars and women. When buying lower end glass, buy a name brand with good ratings. Those two shopping tips will keep your monetary loss down, when you decide to upgrade.
For my field guns, the ones I hunt with and beat up, I have been happy with the Bushnell 3200 & 4200 line. I also used/own the Burris Fullfield II & Nikon Monarch scopes and have been impressed with their value. None of those will have the clarity of the Leupold MK4 or NF scopes, but they don't cost $1200 up either. If you bide your time and shop, most of those scopes can be had at a decent discount.
There is a ton of FUD and bad advice on the web. My suggestions are from my actual use and really only scratch the surface of Scopedom.
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