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Shellshocker66
09-29-2011, 9:14 AM
So just picked up my new 7.62x39 rifle from Sacramento Black Rifle, tore it down this morning and gave it a cleaning and started looking for lube references in the book (not the best owners manuals), then went in search of some online references and didn't really find anything other then people asking if they should lube the gas tube.

So I took my best guess and lubed the bolt and rails. Did I miss any other important part. I'm hoping not because I discovered that there are some sharp little edges on those Russian guns!

Richard Erichsen
09-29-2011, 9:53 AM
So just picked up my new 7.62x39 rifle from Sacramento Black Rifle, tore it down this morning and gave it a cleaning and started looking for lube references in the book (not the best owners manuals), then went in search of some online references and didn't really find anything other then people asking if they should lube the gas tube.

So I took my best guess and lubed the bolt and rails. Did I miss any other important part. I'm hoping not because I discovered that there are some sharp little edges on those Russian guns!

The design is unfussy, but if you want to take care of something that field expedient methods involve urinating on or through it to "clean it" you can go the distance and treat like a proper firearm if you feel so inclined. Most folks have at least some automotive consumables like solvents, oils and greases around, you'll be pleased to know most of this is the same stuff that the gun industry uses in repackaged, sometimes scented forms at 10 times the price. Read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on your favorite gun oil, grease or solvent and while you can't often derive the exact formulation, you'll see the rough proportions of active ingredient to "filler" and in many cases you can find or make your own "miracle lube" or "miracle solvent" with that same info. In fact, this is where the formulation for the many versions of the home-made "Ed's Red" came from - the superior product isn't always the most expensive. I mixed a gallon up 5 years ago and I haven't managed to use more than a half-pint yet, and most of that was spilled. ;)

Some automotive high temp moly lube and some quality gun oil (CLP, Balistol, Burkes or any of the formulations of Ed's Red with little or no ammonia), or even just regular motor oil, 3-in-1, or transmission fluid will do the trick in the following spots, in no particular order:

1) Oil the FCG and selector switch pivot/axis points - hand pump spray bottles with a fine mist work great here, wipe off any excess or it will attract dust and grime you can feel in the action (though most AK owners don't care, I'm just fussy). I've also been playing with dry lube on the FCG recently, but not enough time with it to recommend it yet
2) grease the rails and also the bolt carrier slot where the bolt rides and locks into the barrel trunnion - a thin glaze, don't blob it on, use a business card or plastic knife to smooth it
3) Oil the bolt near the extractor and firing pin - use an oil moistened rag rather than drizzling it on like it's salad dressing
4) Lightly oil the recoil/action spring as a corrosion preventative.

If kept in long term storage lightly spray the inside and outside of the receiver and all exposed external metal parts, wipe excess and throw in some fresh silica gel packs, seal in a plastic wrap and change out any silica packs in the gun case or solid cored locking "gun closet". For old, cherished and well-worn warhorses, the alternative storage preparation procedure is to urinate on the weapon, spit twice for good measure and slam the door. It may be rusted the next time you check on it but it will work just fine when you get around to waking it from hibernation with a few stiff kicks along the charging handle to break the action free followed by a few bangs against a solid nearby wall or floor to dislodge any shingles of rust slowing it down. ;)

As a reminder, DO NOT grease or oil the gas block, gas piston, gas tube or anything with the term "gas" in it - bad juju and you'll be looking at a real mess that did nothing useful for the weapon prior to being cremated during firing.

Some folks go way overboard and grease things that should not be greased or use grease by the ounce on every surface. Pretend that half-ounce tube of grease is the last one on the planet with dabs so tiny its just enough to feel on a fingertip and that's probably the right amount. If you have a gallon of Ed's Red however, feel free to use as much as you need, it will probably last a normal lifetime if you keep your hands, eyes and lungs clear of it's caustic fumes and effects.The typical Ed's Red formulation with 50% ATF and 50% Acetone eats most carbon deposits aggressively (but does little for copper, you need some 10% ammonia for that) but also eats most plastics, many wood finishes, human skin and lung linings. Be careful.

http://guns.wolfcrews.com/ak47/cleaning/default.htm

Good luck,

R

The Virus
09-29-2011, 10:09 AM
I thought all you had to do was urinate on it.

ns3v3n
09-29-2011, 10:12 AM
I thought all you had to do was urinate on it.

That's after you shoot it :43:

Just lube down all the contact moving parts, if you want, put a thin layer of lube on the piston as well, and swab a patch through the barrel with a little bit of lube. Then, shoot the hell out of it. If you shoot corrosive ammo, you need to clean it everytime after.

NorCalK9.com
09-29-2011, 10:21 AM
I use Royal Purple motor oil from my mustang. Ill clean it once in a great while then lightly rub Royal Purple on moving parts not gas piston though.

Shellshocker66
09-29-2011, 10:24 AM
I thought all you had to do was urinate on it.


I don't even want to think of how I would "urinate" on my new rifle, get one of those female funnel cups I guess? I'm jealous you boys can stand and hit anything you want:eek:

I think I got the important stuff from reading Richard's post. Just forgot to put some oil under the safety selector which I remember as I was coming back from the store.

Thank you!

m03
09-29-2011, 10:50 AM
As a reminder, DO NOT grease or oil the gas block, gas piston, gas tube or anything with the term "gas" in it - bad juju and you'll be looking at a real mess that did nothing useful for the weapon prior to being cremated during firing.

Nonsense. How else are we to get that neat plume of smoke to roll off of it during shooting if we don't oil the gas tube :)

zfields
09-29-2011, 11:09 AM
I don't even want to think of how I would "urinate" on my new rifle, get one of those female funnel cups I guess? I'm jealous you boys can stand and hit anything you want:eek:

I think I got the important stuff from reading Richard's post. Just forgot to put some oil under the safety selector which I remember as I was coming back from the store.

Thank you!

You will never fully understand the awesomeness of being able to pee on stuff easily.

As for the AK....I grease the rails, lube the bolt, and a drop on the FCG.

hcbr
09-29-2011, 11:24 AM
LOL , i like how this thread has turned into a conversation of marking your gun with your pee and lubing you gun hahah :D

Shellshocker66
09-29-2011, 12:25 PM
LOL , i like how this thread has turned into a conversation of marking your gun with your pee and lubing you gun hahah :D

LOL, yeah I like the lube part, but think I will refrain from the golden showers urinating on my rifle :)

tujungatoes
09-29-2011, 1:21 PM
Some good advive already. I generally follow the rule of "If it slides grease it. If it rolls oil it" seems to work on most things.

I'm jealous you boys can stand and hit anything you want:eek:

I don't know about "anything". It's not exactly a minute of angle type weapon...and the wandering zero can be irritating.

chead
09-29-2011, 1:22 PM
Remove dustcover, spray CLP, replace dustcover, shoot.

Richard Erichsen
09-29-2011, 1:56 PM
I thought all you had to do was urinate on it.

The best response I've seen to this so far was on another forum: "Does it have to be YOUR urine?"

AK owners are a breed of their own ;)

Richard Erichsen
09-29-2011, 1:58 PM
Some good advive already. I generally follow the rule of "If it slides grease it. If it rolls oil it" seems to work on most things.

I don't know about "anything". It's not exactly a minute of angle type weapon...and the wandering zero can be irritating.

That's a great way to remember what goes where, assuming you lavish such detailed attention on the weapon rather than resorting to "expedient body fluid cleaning procedure #1"

R

smle-man
09-29-2011, 3:05 PM
A dab of rifle grease in both bolt locking recesses, a dab on the cam for the bolt in the carrier, a thin sheen on the rails for the carrier and a dab on the hammer where the carrier rides over it. A patch with lightly coated with break free pulled through the bore and a lightly lubed patch wiped around the chamber. Store muzzle down.

Homebrew2
09-29-2011, 5:45 PM
... I discovered that there are some sharp little edges on those Russian guns!

Unless it's taboo in the Saiga world, you could use a mechanics stone or emery cloth to "break" those sharp edges next time you have it apart :)

zfields
09-29-2011, 7:28 PM
Unless it's taboo in the Saiga world, you could use a mechanics stone or emery cloth to "break" those sharp edges next time you have it apart :)

very taboo


Gabe Suarez said it best, and I paraphrase:

"If you find it uncomfortable, maybe you're just not tough enough"

zfields
09-29-2011, 7:30 PM
The best response I've seen to this so far was on another forum: "Does it have to be YOUR urine?"

AK owners are a breed of their own ;)

hah, yea. My friends with all there AR's just dont get it.

stix213
09-29-2011, 7:59 PM
Once you've shot it a few times, it will be obvious what needs to be oiled up. Basically anything that is showing slight contact wear.

Also, oiling these things is practically optional. Don't over think the maintenance on a Saiga rifle. This isn't some AR that needs to be baby'd (j/k AR peeps :p)

Richard Erichsen
09-29-2011, 9:34 PM
very taboo


Gabe Suarez said it best, and I paraphrase:

"If you find it uncomfortable, maybe you're just not tough enough"

Gabe probably has hands like shoeleather, I'd jump for the stone and jewelers file method of "dehorning" the interior, unless sheet metal cuts are sexy again.

zfields
09-29-2011, 9:43 PM
Gabe probably has hands like shoeleather, I'd jump for the stone and jewelers file method of "dehorning" the interior, unless sheet metal cuts are sexy again.

True. I really havent nailed myself with my AK yet.

MrPlink
09-29-2011, 9:43 PM
They actually run fine dry. They should anyways. Rate of wear would def be increased though.

When my buddy got his first AK pattern I went to the range with him to sight it in. Turns out he forgot to lube at all (ask me about the time he did this with his first AR) After a couple spark showers shooting out of the action because of it being bone dry it ran like any other AK.

zfields
09-29-2011, 9:44 PM
They actually run fine dry. They should anyways. Rate of wear would def be increased though.

When my buddy got his first AK pattern I went to the range with him to sight it in. Turns out he forgot to lube at all (ask me about the time he did this with his first AR) After a couple spark showers shooting out of the action because of it being bone dry it ran like any other AK.

Hell, I thought the sparks were normal!

Bigtwin
09-29-2011, 9:44 PM
Yep, I lube wear items and the bolt....but just a little bit! Other than that I do over clean my Saiga.
You will likely find the "wear" points are minimal! Not much to lube!

M.C.
09-30-2011, 7:02 AM
Nonsense. How else are we to get that neat plume of smoke to roll off of it during shooting if we don't oil the gas tube :)

Newb moment, but why is a greased gas tube/piston bad aside from plumes of smoke?

zfields
09-30-2011, 7:05 AM
Newb moment, but why is a greased gas tube/piston bad aside from plumes of smoke?

not really needed is all.

Richard Erichsen
09-30-2011, 7:24 AM
Hell, I thought the sparks were normal!

It's amazing how fussy you can get after fitting one of those high dollar adjustable FCGs in there - suddenly lubrication becomes tantamount to investment protection. A nice trigger feel is very hard to give up once you've had it.

R

Richard Erichsen
09-30-2011, 7:35 AM
not really needed is all.

It's not needed and if lubed, the misplaced lubricants will leave deposits that require extra cleaning. Some propellents are cleaner than others, surplus ammo tends to run dirtier than the higher quality domestic loads I shoot, but once you cake unnecessarily hydrocarbon-based lubes onto gas system you'll have sticky burnt on black deposits that will at the very least make the cleaning operation more of a chore than it needs to be.

The front face of the gas piston, a bit in the clearance notches, the gas block itself, the gas port at the bottom of the gas block is where most of my deposits end up. Only a fine loose accumulation makes it to the piston shaft itself which is easily removed with minimal brass brushing. In essence, a 5 minute job could become a 20 minute job with no improvement in operation for your troubles.

For those that enjoy cleaning their weapon, slather on the lube to the gas system and have at it. ;)

R

zfields
09-30-2011, 7:49 AM
It's amazing how fussy you can get after fitting one of those high dollar adjustable FCGs in there - suddenly lubrication becomes tantamount to investment protection. A nice trigger feel is very hard to give up once you've had it.

R

Dont know why you are quoting me, Im all for a drop or two of oil on the FCG.
I polished the hell out of my trigger group to get a smoother pull also.

As for the gas piston, I used Slip2000 one time, sparingly and wiped dry after a few minutes, makes it much easier to clean ( the rare times that I do clean it )

Mail Clerk
09-30-2011, 8:25 AM
So just picked up my new 7.62x39 rifle from Sacramento Black Rifle, tore it down this morning and gave it a cleaning and started looking for lube references in the book (not the best owners manuals), then went in search of some online references and didn't really find anything other then people asking if they should lube the gas tube.

So I took my best guess and lubed the bolt and rails. Did I miss any other important part. I'm hoping not because I discovered that there are some sharp little edges on those Russian guns!

Shellshocker66,

Small parts you can use a drop or two of an oil but not allot cuz it's just fly all over the place inside under the cover. The bolt/carrier/rails I use a grease like white lithium grease from an auto supply shop. One can will last a extremly long time! Either one all you need is enough and no more.

DO NOT EVER LUBE THE GAS TUBE!

Mail Clerk

mhho
10-02-2011, 7:16 AM
Check out this video from Jim Fuller from Rifle Dynamics.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSjE_nEFa0c

NorCalK9.com
10-02-2011, 11:34 AM
We're suppose to oil n clean our ak's?
Wtf?
Nobody told me. Is that why when I get up to 600-700 rounds in a range trip my ak's are literally smoking? Lmfao