PDA

View Full Version : Remodeling an SKS - help!


October
09-28-2011, 6:55 PM
Two questions. I just sanded down the whole stock. Im really liking the light, natural wood. Is there a varnish/wood oil that will seal and protect the wood while still making it retain its light natural color?

second. This is a Norinco (chinese) sks. I am wanting to replace the handgaurd with a ventilated one. Does anyone know if this one would fit a norinco?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8WWG6/sr=8-1/qid=1317261028/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1317261028&sr=8-1&seller=

I wasnt sure if the yugo, romanian, chinese, etc.. handgaurds were different sizes.

thanks

paul0660
09-28-2011, 7:00 PM
A water based finish will not add color, unless it is noted on the can.

Even yugo gas tubes will fit, but you really want a chinese or Russian. Romanian, I dunno, they are different I think.

I hope this thing was a wreck before you started sanding.

October
09-28-2011, 7:10 PM
A water based finish will not add color, unless it is noted on the can.

Even yugo gas tubes will fit, but you really want a chinese or Russian. Romanian, I dunno, they are different I think.

I hope this thing was a wreck before you started sanding.

WHy a wreck? I was just tired of the color mostly. Couple chips here and there too. is there something bad about sanding?

bob7122
09-28-2011, 7:26 PM
a light color of shellac might help.

paul0660
09-28-2011, 7:28 PM
WHy a wreck? I was just tired of the color mostly. Couple chips here and there too. is there something bad about sanding?

Not at all, it is your gun. I have boogered up some history in my time.

October
09-28-2011, 7:32 PM
Not at all, it is your gun. I have boogered up some history in my time.

oh lol. Well....im not to sentimental with an already kinda ugly chinese gun. If it were a yugo I would leave it well enough alone. Though I do regret Bubba(ing) my M44 mosin nagant that was in great condition about 4 years ago.... so stupid.

a light color of shellac might help.

Nice Avatar. Still workin through New Vegas right now. Much better than 3, imo.

Linkpimp
09-28-2011, 7:34 PM
My two cents:
After you completed your sanding put on rubber gloves!, your fingers will leave oil reside on it.. then you would want to use a prewash on it / IE:
Tack or sticky cloth
Or rinse it with water and let it dry

This is to remove all of the fine sandpaper residue and or dust from your rifle.

As for your finish, I would strongly recommend linseed oil. This will not color it but it will bring out the natural look of the wood and grain.

Ultimately you want to go with 2-3 coats of oil on it..

Then let it dry and post some pics..

Its pretty easy..

Hope that helps

Link

paul0660
09-28-2011, 7:36 PM
oh lol. Well....im not to sentimental with an already kinda ugly chinese gun. If it were a yugo I would leave it well enough alone. Though I do regret Bubba(ing) my M44 mosin nagant that was in great condition about 4 years ago.... so stupid.

So you know............in the big picture it does not matter much.

BTW, I am of the opinion that the Chinese made the best SKS's. Not all of them, but they made some jewels. I sold all my yugos, a russian, and kept a chinese.

But, that can vary too.

October
09-28-2011, 9:10 PM
My two cents:
After you completed your sanding put on rubber gloves!, your fingers will leave oil reside on it.. then you would want to use a prewash on it / IE:
Tack or sticky cloth
Or rinse it with water and let it dry

This is to remove all of the fine sandpaper residue and or dust from your rifle.

As for your finish, I would strongly recommend linseed oil. This will not color it but it will bring out the natural look of the wood and grain.

Ultimately you want to go with 2-3 coats of oil on it..

Then let it dry and post some pics..

Its pretty easy..

Hope that helps

Link

so I wet cloth, wipe down let dry.
Grab some lindseed oil, and start coating it. Do I use brush or rub in with my gloved hands?
Repeat applying coats after each one dries.

Should I spray with a varnish or finish or anything to extra protect everything?

Linkpimp
09-28-2011, 9:34 PM
The idea / prinasble behind a sticky cloth is it doesn’t leave bit behind, a cotton rag will leave some cotton behind, so what ever you do, just make sure all of the lint from the rag is removed..

Wear rubber gloves and soak the rag, brush or (cut up a old tee shirt) and then dip on the oil, and apply to the stock (you can not over due it, so no worries, coat it all) then let the oil soak into the stock for 15-20 minuets, then rub the stock dry. Wait 10 minuets and re oil it again, again letting the oil sit for 15-20 minutes and wipe dry.

If you feel like it, this part is totally up to sir, that a 3rd coat is required then repeat the process one more time..

You do not top coat oil, you can top coat stain but not oil, it needs to breath and it admits vapers.. if you really want to top coat it (it your gun) then make sure that the oil is completely dry ie (48hr later)at least..

The huge benefit to the oil is, if it gets scratched or whatever, you just simple apply more to it and it’s new again, it will always match, etc.

Hope that helps

Link

paul0660
09-28-2011, 9:39 PM
Wear rubber gloves and soak the rag, brush or (cut up a old tee shirt) and then dip on the oil, and apply to the stock (you can not over due it, so no worries, coat it all) then let soak for oil for 15-20 minuets, then run the stock dry. Wait 10 minuets and re oil it again, again letting the oil sit for 15-20 minutes and wipe dry.


Might be a language thing here, but linseed oil takes a day to dry. Three coats, three days, and not rainy days, those take longer. It will be nice after the three days. Then get some shellac to finish up, 3 or 5 coats (those only take an hour to dry) a little 000 steel wool before and after the last, and you are done.

October
09-28-2011, 9:48 PM
what kind of shellac? and steel woole it before you shellac and after?

Linkpimp
09-28-2011, 10:09 PM
Might be a language thing here, but linseed oil takes a day to dry. Three coats, three days, and not rainy days, those take longer. It will be nice after the three days. Then get some shellac to finish up, 3 or 5 coats (those only take an hour to dry) a little 000 steel wool before and after the last, and you are done.


My bad, I was thinking about something else.. Thanks for the catch sir.. ;)

Link

dmax11
09-29-2011, 1:16 AM
if your just replacing the handguard itself and not the rest of the gas tube all the aftermarket handguards work on any SKS exept for the alby due to its longer wood hanguard it has factory.

here is my yugo in a tapco multicam stock and has a steel "cheese grater" handguard installed on the gas tube. that is the handguard and that one on mine will work on yours as well with minor filing at the most. it fit my yugo a bit loose so i doubt you'd have to file yours if you got the same one. the spring it comes with keeps it from being really loose however or it would rattle around for sure.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/Frito_023/IMG_20110801_185451.jpg

October
09-29-2011, 3:53 PM
man, this is really an art form. So many different topics all over the net about good ways of doing this.

Just applied the first coat of boiled linseed oil. Rubbed it in till the gun was warm from friction, let it sit for 20 minutes, the wiped it all off with an old shirt.

So should I take some 0000 steel wool and buff it all down before each new coat I put on?

gun toting monkeyboy
09-29-2011, 5:14 PM
Don't stress about wrecking the gun. It is a Norinco. They are not historical (yet). No more so than any of the modern guns you can get down at Big 5.

October
10-03-2011, 11:34 AM
So im not sure what kind of shellac to use. Any suggestions? Im going on to coat four of the BLO. Not really satisfied yet with the finish so Im gonna keep goin till I get it how I want. Here have been my steps so far. After coating in oil, rubbing down with hands till its warm, letting sit for 30 minutes, then wiping off, let dry for 24 hours and repeat.

Am I missing anything? Should I be letting it dry in the sun? its been hang drying in the garage. SHould I be lightly sanding with 400 after each coat? Just doesnt seem to be getting that smooth, protective finish I was hoping for.