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View Full Version : Muzzle break wont go on straight


1Luv4SF
09-21-2011, 2:55 PM
I seem to be having difficulties with installing muzzle breaks on both my ARs. Ones chambered in 7.62x39 and the other 7.62x51. When I screw the break on then torque it down with my amorers wrench, I can never get it to be straight. Always at an angle. Can anyone help?

zfields
09-21-2011, 2:57 PM
not straight to the bore, or just not straight so the vents line up correctly?


If its the second, crush washers are your friend, if its the first.....your threads are f-ed

shooterfpga
09-21-2011, 2:57 PM
you need a peel washer to index it. possibly a couple. the crush washer you have should be able to take atleast a full crank on it.

CCTACTICAL
09-21-2011, 4:53 PM
Remember you cant use your old crush washer. If the muzzle break came with a new one use it. If not you will have to buy a new crush washer for both.

chesterthehero
09-21-2011, 5:08 PM
sounds like you either need a crush/peel washer or to have your barrel rethreaded..

shark92651
09-21-2011, 5:12 PM
sounds like you either need a crush/peel washer or to have your barrel rethreaded..

Between those choices I would go with the crush washer ;)

MrExel17
09-21-2011, 7:38 PM
Agreed, start with he crush washer first before moving ahead.

crackerman
09-21-2011, 8:34 PM
Between those choices I would go with the crush washer ;)

yeah but what do you know;)

NYY
09-21-2011, 9:25 PM
some pic-ters woo be nyce

dfletcher
09-21-2011, 9:31 PM
I seem to be having difficulties with installing muzzle breaks on both my ARs. Ones chambered in 7.62x39 and the other 7.62x51. When I screw the break on then torque it down with my amorers wrench, I can never get it to be straight. Always at an angle. Can anyone help?

I just finished putting a brake on my Benelli MR1 (thank you Valkyrie Arms, great job with the threading challenge) and had to do a little fiddling with the only darm crush washer I had in a bag filled with about 200 AR little parts. The device turned on past 12 o'clock but not far enough to make the next turn around. I shaved a bit of metal off the front of the crush washer so the top center point of the brake made it to 3 o'clock by hand and then socked it down with a wrench.

For the 7.62X51 you might want to consider the Smith - it's non-indexing, just sock it down and you're done.

ReaperCrew
09-21-2011, 10:25 PM
not straight to the bore, or just not straight so the vents line up correctly?


If its the second, crush washers are your friend, if its the first.....your threads are f-ed

:iagree:

NYY
09-22-2011, 12:08 AM
try "righty LOOSY, lefty TIGHTY". thats the case with my Romy AK... unfortunately took me 24 hours and a CG thread to learn how simple it was/dumb i was...

1Luv4SF
09-22-2011, 2:31 PM
The problem is the vents are not lining up the correct way. The one for my .308 has big gills on both sides and when torqued down all the way the gills face 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock rather then 3 and 9.

zfields
09-22-2011, 2:34 PM
The problem is the vents are not lining up the correct way. The one for my .308 has big gills on both sides and when torqued down all the way the gills face 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock rather then 3 and 9.

Crush washers then is all you need, Basicaly something to space it out a bit more then torque down on to get it in the right spot.

Droppin Deuces
09-22-2011, 2:35 PM
The problem is the vents are not lining up the correct way. The one for my .308 has big gills on both sides and when torqued down all the way the gills face 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock rather then 3 and 9.

Your brake will just about NEVER go on the way its supposed to without a crush washer or other clocking method.

What brand is it? Did it include a crush washer? post some pics - give us an idea of what you're working with here. Help us help you.

MasterYong
09-22-2011, 4:30 PM
I had this same problem on my AR57. I was stupid and thought "how hard can changing a muzzle device be???" and didn't know I needed a new washer (there wasn't a washer on the upper when I took the FH off...).

The gun actually SHOOTs off (to the left) and I'm sure it's the brake. I've never gotten around to getting a washer for it (the gun is so cool in theory, but it's so much easier to get .223 that I mostly shoot my other ARs, .308s, or handguns)

1Luv4SF
09-22-2011, 5:19 PM
http://tapatalk.com/mu/a6cd88bb-d002-fe3f.jpg

http://tapatalk.com/mu/a6cd88bb-d01f-e8eb.jpg

This washer was supplied with the muzzle break. Even with it the break still won't be straight.

shooterfpga
09-22-2011, 5:19 PM
thats a crush washer.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

Merc1138
09-22-2011, 5:26 PM
Umm, are you sure you're actually torquing it down far enough? When I changed my flash hider to a muzzle brake, I had it on the carpet and used my foot on the wrench to force it to turn far enough to line up correctly. An actual vice would have helped in my instance, but this isn't something you're just going to put on with the upper on your lap watching TV on the couch.

dfletcher
09-22-2011, 5:48 PM
The problem is the vents are not lining up the correct way. The one for my .308 has big gills on both sides and when torqued down all the way the gills face 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock rather then 3 and 9.

So - too much tight too soon, right? Take a bastard file and remove a bit of metal from the front of the crush washer, you'll eventually be able to crank it to 3 & 9. Go slow, don't take off too much. It's easy.

If you don't have the barrel in a vise put it in one, it is so much easier and lets you torque away.

As pictured the crush washer is shown "upside down" and would go on the other way - cupped end facing the brake.

shark92651
09-22-2011, 7:04 PM
That crush washer doesn't look like it has been crushed yet. Use an upper receiver block or wrap some leather around the barrel and put it in a vise and torque that brake down until it is properly indexed. You can get at least a full 360 degree turn on that crush washer once it is past hand tight. If you don't have a vise then take it to someone that does.

CRTguns
09-22-2011, 7:55 PM
umm... crush washers should NOT be used for a BRAKE. FLASH hider is OK, exit hole is big enough.

better- peel washer.

Best- take barrel and brake to a 'smith who can "TIME" your brake- no washers involved. SHould cost about $25.

shark92651
09-22-2011, 8:05 PM
Interesting, why not when many brakes come with crush washers from the mfg, like the one the OP purchased? Others that come to mind are the YHM Phantom and the BattleComp for example.

shooterfpga
09-22-2011, 8:13 PM
uh maybe from some brakes, but the ones this op has doesnt require indexing in the way youre talking about and it was supplied from manufacturer with a crush washer, just like a ton of other comp and brake companies send out with their products.

FeuerFrei
09-22-2011, 8:29 PM
Bench vise+ barrel vise+crush washer+molly grease+small steel rod/bar=indexed brake/hider.
Start with a new washer and moly grease. (can use other grease)
Usually takes three or four attempts to screw it on and off leaving the final try to index the muzzle device.
If it is in the barrel vise you can really get your torque on. Putting this into an action vise is asking for trouble. It's your money.

Merc1138
09-22-2011, 9:08 PM
umm... crush washers should NOT be used for a BRAKE. FLASH hider is OK, exit hole is big enough.


What? Why is it exactly that you shouldn't use a crush washer with a brake when tons of people do it just fine?

1Luv4SF
09-22-2011, 9:10 PM
What's the difference between a barrel vice vs. an action vice?

shooterfpga
09-22-2011, 9:16 PM
an action vise, wedges around the upper receiver. a barrel vise wedges around the barrel.

dfletcher
09-22-2011, 9:22 PM
umm... crush washers should NOT be used for a BRAKE. FLASH hider is OK, exit hole is big enough.

better- peel washer.

Best- take barrel and brake to a 'smith who can "TIME" your brake- no washers involved. Should cost about $25.

I hadn't heard about the "no crush washer" for brake but am guessing a bit by your post the brake could be shifted off the bore a bit and the bullet clip the smaller exit hole?

That's probably not good for accuracy .... :facepalm:

shark92651
09-22-2011, 9:23 PM
What's the difference between a barrel vice vs. an action vice?

An action block goes inside or around the outside of the upper receiver and then goes into a vise. A barrel block goes around the barrel and then into the vise (or you can just wrap the barrel or front sight with leather and put it into a vise). Under extreme situations if using an upper block and lots of torque on a muzzle device, and particularly if your barrel nut is not torqued properly, the index pin on the barrel can be bent/broken and/or damage the upper receiver can occur.

NYY
09-22-2011, 10:54 PM
ohh i see now. Yeah either

1) tighten it even more. If you think its not possible to go any farther, then it probably cant

2) like people said put some spacers (thin washers) to take up room. About 6 different thickness spacers came with my PWS556. Have to figure out which ones to use in order to have it tight correctly.

Dhena81
09-22-2011, 11:10 PM
Go to home depot pick up a can of elbow grease and torque that son of a B**** down. You should use a vise but I've done a couple with the rifle in between my legs and I'm sure I'm lucky I didn't break anything.

CRTguns
09-23-2011, 10:40 PM
What? Why is it exactly that you shouldn't use a crush washer with a brake when tons of people do it just fine?

Logical, yes.

Tons of people exceed the speed limit, and text while driving wrecklessly... but only a small percentage die from it.
Tone of people have tried Methamphetamines.
Tons of people eat too much and excercise too little.

Ever seen what a bullet does to your barrel when it nips the baffle inside a brake? I have. Several times. It can rip the threads right off the gun. I've made more than a little scratch on the repair of a botched muzzle brake install- usually botched with a crush washer.

The Math of it:

Some mfgs allow as little as .0015" on the diameter of the bore in a brake. .0075" on each side. If the brake is 2" past the muzzle, effectively, this .0075" clearance can be eclipsed by as little as a .0018" misalignment at the union between the threads and brake. That's under two thousanths of an inch. About 1/3 the width of the average hair.

This means that if that punch-press stamped piece of spring steel is off- by half a hair in thickness or width(this will affect crush rate), your brake goes pop. Worst case, your muzzle comes off. If you're at the gun range, your neighbor might get hit by 3000fps jacket fragments.

How can you knowingly play the odds with a GUN?

1Luv4SF
09-24-2011, 3:14 PM
Wow dude that's crazy! I'm a little confused tho as to which type of washer your saying to use.