View Full Version : Has anyone made their own 10/22 stock?

09-07-2011, 6:27 PM
So I just ordered a rifle blank, black walnut that has been air dried for at least four years, and I am planning on making my first homemade rifle stock. Has anyone out there done this before? I have been doing reasearch, the fourms on Rimfirecentral have been a great wealth of information on the subject, espically the stickies, but I am always looking for more advice. I have wanted to do this for many years and since I just had major knee surgery and it will take me at least three months to heal, I figured this is the time.

I have tentatively settled on this set of ideas for the stock: a target style stock with a swept back pistolgrip including a thumbhole, raised coumb and flutes simmilar to the monte carlo style with a fixed cheek rest (maybe concaved), possibly the fore end having a wide base and slight taper toward the top.

Does anyone have any advice or personal experiences they would be willing to share? or some ideas, photos, or descriptions of a stock that is along the lines of what I described. Nothing is set in stone, I am open any help. Thanks people.


09-07-2011, 6:50 PM
Walnut can be very hard and dense.
Do you have power tools?

09-07-2011, 7:20 PM
I have a dremel with 50 or more diffrent grinding and sanding heads, thats the only power tool I own. I've got a great set of 23 large and small files, a saw, a few rasps, chisels plus the whetstone, and the most nessisary: whole lot of sand paper. I have a few other things I cant remember at the moment but those are pretty much what I will be working with. I will be borrowing a friends drill for the takedown hole, and I am not planning on using the dremel unless it is absolutly nessisary, I'd like to do it all by hand.

09-07-2011, 7:35 PM
Have you practiced on a piece of scrap walnut?

09-07-2011, 8:00 PM
not sure what kind of wood it was, but yes.

09-07-2011, 8:44 PM
I've worked with some walnut that seemed more like hardened aluminum.
It really resisted being cut by files and rasps (as in it laughed at me).
I often use my dremel with either a flat or cutter faced metal cutting head about 1/4" tall on this kind of wood.
Small even cuts like your are human mill when inletting work best for me.
I like the idea of all hand work, but my hands and wrists start to ache just thinking about it...maybe because I'm getting older.
I would try to find someone with a router or similar tool to cut the rough shape inside and out if the wood is super hard.
Otherwise you may run out of patience before you get it done.

Now, if you are master with a chisel and hammer, then ignore the above.

Please take pics and post them so we can see what you are doing.

Oh, and welcome to CalGuns!

09-07-2011, 9:44 PM
if your planing on doing it all by hand i would suggest a draw knife and a plane. the draw knife can be used to ruff out the shape, also is relatively inexpensive. the plane can be used to smooth out the shape with a controllable depth and relative ease of use, but the planes are not cheap, and if you do decide to get a plane I would suggest getting a European plane as they have much better steal than their Stanley counter parts. also and probably most important take shallow draws you cant undo a mistake.
and lastly always pay attention to the grain pattern its really easy to forget and catch the grain and chunk it. hope this helps.

09-07-2011, 9:55 PM
Thank you for the greeting buddy, this is a great place to gather info. What is the process that you used when inletting with the dremel? I am proficient with my mallet and chisels as well as a rasp but i'm still learning how to use my wood files correctly on a scrap wood block that i've been practicing the diffrent inletting techniques I've read about. I can see where removing very large portions of wood would become very tiresome. I will gladly document the whole process and post it up here.

09-07-2011, 10:00 PM
What is the process that you used when inletting with the dremel?

The same as milling metal ...one shallow cut after another.
If you are coming at the wood from an edge, a smooth faced cutting head is good.
For going deeper down in a pocket, the cutter head with blades on the face allows you to "drill in" a little so you can then make the sideways cut.
Dremels are not really made to be a drill, so go easy on it when you are doing this.

09-07-2011, 10:16 PM
i made this one a few years ago before there was such a thing as the Boyds "tacticool"
I honestly would never do it again. It took forever and made a disaster in my garage of sawdust.


09-07-2011, 10:49 PM
Does the metal cutting head look like a disc? or is one of the orange-brown colored pressed gritty rock like material grinders?

edit: I have one cutting head believe it or not, and it is pretty tiny, it's as wide as the shaft and 1/4" long with cutting surfaces on tip and sides, if i tried to mill a 10/22 reciever with that it would probably take me longer than the chisel and hammer. Looks like i'm heading to Homedept.

09-07-2011, 10:52 PM
Very nice design d-racer, I prefer it with the wood color as the finish, but to each their own. How did you bed the action and barrel, pillar, glass? or did you not at all?

09-08-2011, 12:44 PM
I got the exact measurments of the blank: Overall length, 36 inches, 6-7/8" tall at the butt, 3-5/8" high up front, and 2-3/8" thick throughout. It was not run through a surface planer but both sides were run through a joiner. Its pretty narrow for the buttstock area where I will be definitely be incorporating in a raised cheek piece most likely with a high and fluted comb. What I'd like to know is there enough wood there to make a quality benchrest/target/silhouette style stock? It's what I've got to work with, it was only $30 so I could always get a thicker one if need be. Thanks for the time you guys take to help me.