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kugmo
08-15-2011, 5:32 PM
hi all,

i finally got my AR last friday, its a VA-AR build (valkyrie arms in milpitas), went to Livermore gun club and tried it out, i used a Winchester .223 fmj and another brand sold at the range, total about 80 rds fired

each time the round failed to chamber, first shot is ok, then when i pull the trigger for the second shot, i just hear a click, i looked and i see the next round on the mag has not come up , at first i thought it was the new mag ( pmag) so i tried a another mag from a buddy that we know is working, still same issue ---- so i ended up shooting the AR like a bolt action rifle :)

i called Carl on VA and he said the gun needs to be "break-in" and that i should try more brands of .223 ammo, he told me to bring it back anytime if its still exhibiting the same behavior after another maybe 200 + rounds

anyone from the forum can shed light to this issue, im new to this so any input is appreciated

thanks

ERdept
08-15-2011, 5:34 PM
Can you just chamber and extract dummy rounds whilst watching tv. A few mags worth, then shoot it.

Remember, NO LIVE rounds.

cvx5832
08-15-2011, 5:40 PM
Your AR is shortstroking.

Does the bolt lock back on the last round?

kugmo
08-15-2011, 5:41 PM
i dont have any dummy rounds right now

- when i was at the range i am able to extract the rounds then shoot again , it all i did all the time i was there to shoot the AR , i there such a thing a "breaking in " a gun ?

thanks

pdq_wizzard
08-15-2011, 5:46 PM
Lube it, I was having the same problem last week, I lubed the bolt (a lot) and then no more problems


---
- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AeroEngi
08-15-2011, 5:55 PM
Sounds like a problem I was having when I first got mine. I didn't know how to lube my bolt and bolt carrier. I think my problem was a combination of a dirty chamber and a dry bolt/BCG. You might wanna thoroughly clean your chamber (don't oil it, keep it dry) and lube up your bolt/BCG really well. I did this and it worked for me.

After failing to chamber the round, was it really difficult to pull the charging handle to remove the unchambered/jammed round?

dieselpower
08-15-2011, 5:58 PM
Whats your answers....

Pull trigger = Bang, Pull trigger again NO BANG. Look at ejection port and BCG is CLOSED with;
1) The empty case still in the chamber
2) No case in the chamber...an empty chamber
3) NEITHER, the BCG was stuck trying to feed the next round into the chamber.
4) The BCG is LOCKED BACK and I am looking at the next round in the magazine

When I manually cycle the rifle, I can load, extract, load with the Charging Handle the entire magazine without a jam?
1) True
2) False

kugmo
08-15-2011, 6:03 PM
hi all,

the rifle is new, i inspected it, VA took it appart infront of me to show me all the part, components was well lubricated as far as i can observe when i took possession of the rifle

- it was not really hard to pull the charging handle , the round actually did not jam but i can see its still sitting in the mag as if it was not pulled or pushed after i fired a round, i kept on pulling the handle to load the round , thats how it was when i was at the range

ill try to go to the range this weekend and load a different brand of ammo and see if the results are the same ... thanks all for the input

FeuerFrei
08-15-2011, 6:05 PM
No break in necessary. You first need to do a good inspection for loose gas key, gas block leak, gas tube fit.
Next time while at the range check for short stroking with one round and see if it locks the carrier back.
If it still cannot lock back then take it back where you spent your hard earned ducats and have someone fix it. Gas system probably has a leak or obstruction.

kugmo
08-15-2011, 6:07 PM
Whats your answers....

Pull trigger = Bang, Pull trigger again NO BANG. Look at ejection port and BCG is CLOSED with; >> this is exactly whats happening answer in line

1) The empty case still in the chamber - >>> empty case has ejected

2) No case in the chamber...an empty chamber

3) NEITHER, the BCG was stuck trying to feed the next round into the chamber. >>> not stuck

4) The BCG is LOCKED BACK and I am looking at the next round in the magazine >> no

When I manually cycle the rifle, I can load, extract, load with the Charging Handle the entire magazine without a jam? >> true
1) True
2) False



thanks

OHW
08-15-2011, 6:50 PM
It's four questions. None of the answers are "thanks".

How about answering the nice guy trying to help you?

NorCalK9.com
08-15-2011, 7:06 PM
This is the same crap I posted yesterday lol I swear he was shooting at livermore yesterday too. My goodness this is crazy maybe our ar's got the flu or something. Lol good luck bud.

jingerale
08-15-2011, 7:19 PM
I don't know what the problem is but it seems like you paid for a working AR and not a working AR after break in or trouble shoot.

It's one thing to say it will work better after break in, but it seems it does not work as intended if you have to cycle it yourself. All I'm saying is like everything else you buy off the shelf, it should be in perfect working order out of the box.

kugmo
08-15-2011, 7:19 PM
It's four questions. None of the answers are "thanks".

How about answering the nice guy trying to help you?

i did say thanks ...


anyways, thanks to all !! sorry im new to this and still learning

kugmo
08-15-2011, 7:21 PM
This is the same crap I posted yesterday lol I swear he was shooting at livermore yesterday too. My goodness this is crazy maybe our ar's got the flu or something. Lol good luck bud.


i was there around 12noon till 3 pm , #4 and #5

chicoredneck
08-15-2011, 7:22 PM
Another vote for shortstroking. Make sure you try some other ammo next time you go out as there is a very small chance that the ammo you had was underpowered for your rifle.

sleepur606
08-15-2011, 7:24 PM
Many firearms need to be lubed before they will function flawlessly; nothing out of the ordinary.

It sounds like your AR is short stroking, like many have said. Either you're leaking gas, or you aren't lubed well enough. From everything I've heard and seen in my personal experience, run your BCG (bolt carrier group) wet. Not dripping wet, but with a very liberal amount of oil on it. NOT GREASE, but oil, gun lube, that type of stuff.

Any time I've seen a short stroke, it's been fixed by lubing; except for one time when my buddy was tuning his JP gas block, but that's another story.

dieselpower
08-15-2011, 7:44 PM
based on your answers the rifle is short stroking. lube it well, check the gas key screws, look for signs of pressure bypassing from the gas tube at the gas block and check that gas key to gas tube lock up isnt too tight (bent tube)

kugmo
08-15-2011, 7:45 PM
thanks for the replies, im gonna take the gun back to VA and have them take a look at it

- next range time is this weekend, hopefully the issue will be resolved

XDshooter
08-15-2011, 9:14 PM
LOTS-O-LUBE. CLP is your friend.

AR bolts need a lot of it. It should look wet.

hollowpoint
08-15-2011, 9:50 PM
It's four questions. None of the answers are "thanks".

How about answering the nice guy trying to help you?

um pretty sure he answered the questions inside the quote.

I had this problem with a new build awhile back for the first 100 or so rounds, I re-lubed then realized I was running my spikes st-t2 heavy buffer, swapped the buffer for a carbine buffer and she has ran smooth since.

CSI304
08-15-2011, 10:07 PM
I actually saw a guy at Sunnyvale Rod and Gun on Saturday having the exact problem.
*he is shooting the gun like a bolt action (manually chamber each rounds)
must have been the AR flu! 3 confirmed cases!

I say bring it back to VA, they will fix it for you. It is a very common problem with carbine/pistol length gas system. I had the exact same issue with my DI AR pistol
upper back in feb, 2011.

strakill
08-16-2011, 3:38 PM
I had a guy bring me his AR on saturday with it doing the same thing. It was the the screws in the gas block were loose enough to cause gas to escape before it got into the tube. A few small drops of loc-tite and tighting the screws fixed her right up. Just a thought

tacticalcity
08-16-2011, 3:42 PM
LOTS-O-LUBE. CLP is your friend.

AR bolts need a lot of it. It should look wet.

You don't need to run wet lube on an AR. Something like Cleanzoil that is a cleaner and dry lube will work fine. Running it wet in the field will cause the dirt, dust, sand, and powder to turn it into mud and gum up the works. So I don't run wet lube. I do however, strip it down and clean every part with Cleanzoil which I wipe as dry as I can with a rag and then let it air dry. This lubes every surface with a clear dry film. It works great.

Z.1
08-16-2011, 4:18 PM
Guess you don't need a BB, since its a bolt action :D

Assuming its properly lubed as you said it was, if the gas block/fsb, tube, and key check out, it could be either too heavy of a buffer or undergassed (I'm thinking too small of a hole in the barrel to let gas through?) Just a thought.

XDshooter
08-16-2011, 4:18 PM
You don't need to run wet lube on an AR. Something like Cleanzoil that is a cleaner and dry lube will work fine. Running it wet in the field will cause the dirt, dust, sand, and powder to turn it into mud and gum up the works. So I don't run wet lube. I do however, strip it down and clean every part with Cleanzoil which I wipe as dry as I can with a rag and then let it air dry. This lubes every surface with a clear dry film. It works great.

In my experience, new AR's need lots of lube until the upper wears into the bolt. So many new AR shooters have bad experiences because they don't put anything on them. I recommend wet with CLP, because (1) I don't run "in the field" and (2) CLP works better this way.

They need less and less with higher round counts. Wiping CLP off after a couple hundred is fine instead of wet.

kugmo
08-16-2011, 4:52 PM
In my experience, new AR's need lots of lube until the upper wears into the bolt. So many new AR shooters have bad experiences because they don't put anything on them. I recommend wet with CLP, because (1) I don't run "in the field" and (2) CLP works better this way.

They need less and less with higher round counts. Wiping CLP off after a couple hundred is fine instead of wet.

thanks for the inputs, this is my first AR and i was expecting it to work right off the bat, ill take it back to VA tomorrow so they can inspect it , im new to this so i appreciate all the advice , its a learning experience for me , i was just expecting the gun to work right away and not expecting me to lube it or break it in , the dealer should have lubricated it properly imho

thanks again to everyone , ill post back on whatever VA finds regarding this issue

madd556
08-16-2011, 7:25 PM
I had a similar problem with a CMMG upper. Turned out to have a loose gas block. My best guess would be loss of pressure in the gas system rather than not enough lube or ammo. Just my 2cents. Good luck.

INDABZ
08-16-2011, 8:45 PM
Well if they built it.....than they should at least test fire it.....;)

Seen a lot of people go cheap on the ammo and they have problems at the range.

Usually check ammo first, than magazine....an than the rifle.

Sounds like short stroking...FTF

Heretodaygonetomorrow
08-17-2011, 10:38 AM
My advice to you is kinda the opposite of what some other people are saying...

You gun will not be reliable until you get at least 200 rounds through it without a malfunction. Manually cycling the action when you're sitting around at home not doing anything else will help move the break-in process along.

The nitrate/phosphate finish on the inside of the gun is not ideal for smooth operation. You gotta it worn/polished/smooth. If you remove the lube by breaking down the gun and wiping with a clean rag with alcohol, then manually cycling the action at least 100 times, the gun will break in much faster than if you simply keep dumping tons of lube in and praying for the action to break in and start running smoothly.

Clean the lube from the gun, manually cycle it while your watching the idiot box with your family. Then wipe it out with an oil rag to remove the trash, and lastly relubricate normally (no need to drown it in lube).

Norsemen308
08-17-2011, 11:22 AM
Your AR is shortstroking.



^^ My GF does this all the time, and like his AR, i never can get a round off

kugmo
08-17-2011, 7:43 PM
My advice to you is kinda the opposite of what some other people are saying...

You gun will not be reliable until you get at least 200 rounds through it without a malfunction. Manually cycling the action when you're sitting around at home not doing anything else will help move the break-in process along.

The nitrate/phosphate finish on the inside of the gun is not ideal for smooth operation. You gotta it worn/polished/smooth. If you remove the lube by breaking down the gun and wiping with a clean rag with alcohol, then manually cycling the action at least 100 times, the gun will break in much faster than if you simply keep dumping tons of lube in and praying for the action to break in and start running smoothly.

Clean the lube from the gun, manually cycle it while your watching the idiot box with your family. Then wipe it out with an oil rag to remove the trash, and lastly relubricate normally (no need to drown it in lube).

----


thanks for the input, i actually took the rifle back to VA, they said they will check it out and take it to a gun range(Sunnyvale) and hopefully reproduce the issue i am seeing, hopefully they can fix it

ill update later on what they say

thanks again

Mr. Casull
08-18-2011, 2:46 PM
The gun is crap and you should ask for your money back! It should shoot right out of the box with factory USA ammo 100% of the time. If it doesn't, then whoever built the gun didn't do their job right. Good thing they don't make surgical instruments!

kugmo
08-21-2011, 7:11 AM
update: took to the range yesterday , rifle is re-lubed very generously, this time it worked , i used Federal/Fiocchi/Hornandy and PMC .223 rounds and the rounds chambered and no more pulling the charging lever, occasionally it would not push the Federal round into the firing position( its stuck halfway in the chamber) maybe around once every 50 rounds but the other ammo type were ok

ill clean and lube more, im using CLF to lube the bcg

thanks to all who responded to my post and provided insights

The Virus
08-21-2011, 7:21 AM
update: took to the range yesterday , rifle is re-lubed very generously, this time it worked , i used Federal/Fiocchi/Hornandy and PMC .223 rounds and the rounds chambered and no more pulling the charging lever, occasionally it would not push the Federal round into the firing position( its stuck halfway in the chamber) maybe around once every 50 rounds but the other ammo type were ok

ill clean and lube more, im using CLF to lube the bcg

thanks to all who responded to my post and provided insights

That is unacceptable performance! take it back to VA and tell them you paid for a working rifle, not a 1 in 50 malfunctioning rifle.
More lube and needs breaking in is BS.
Unless you are going to carry a bottle of lube to pour on the BCG when it needs MORE LUBE.

AR-15 Rep
08-21-2011, 10:32 AM
I could see a few rounds to break things in a bit, but typically it should be good to go out of the box. The way it sounds is, something is either way to tight, machined to wrong specs, or an assembly problem. I would get it checked, bring some of the brass with and see what you can find out. There have been some barrels that had some problems and were noted either here or on another forum. Check the brass for scratches, it could be that it was not finished properly.

AlexKintner
08-21-2011, 10:44 AM
My Stag upper has 700 rounds through it without one single issue. Ask the BCM fans, if a Stag can do it, any AR should do it.

bwiese
08-21-2011, 10:54 AM
I am confident Valkyrie will work to solve your problems.

In the meantime, some tips...


lube nicely using CLP. (Uncle Sugar uses it, so can you!) Don't mess around w/other lubes til you isolate issue
and your gun is running OK. CLP always works, and substution of other lubes is the exception rather than the rule.

For "what to lubricate", download the free USGI M16 operators's manual - might as well download the technical manual too!

These are master references that should be relied on before listening to urban legend or buying someone's magic lubricant
recipe, etc.
.
Use the chamber brush to vigorously scrub the chamber (using CLP). Then, clean/dry the chamber with a 'mop' attachment
on your cleaning rod. If you don't have a full USGI cleaning kit, go get one. Learn what all the attachments are there for.
, I

Take your bolt and lubricate (with CLP) the extractor and ejector. Exercise (using a popsicle stick, etc.) the travel of the
extractor and ejector several dozen or more times while watching TV - this allows you to 'work the system' and let CLP 'get
down in there'. Light thin coat of CLP on the bolt body and a drop inside the carrier area that receives the bolt - along with
a drop on the cam pin and in the gas key tube should set you up nicely.


I assume your rifle uses a BulletButton maglock. Sometimes a given mag can cause problems (carrier drag, etc.) especially
when a maglock must be used. If you are using some 10rd PMAGs, switch to regular USGI-like magazines and observe differences...



Using the chamber brush is especially important if your build has a non-chrome-lined "match" barrel.

Once the above is done your gun should operate reliably, and the gun will then operate to 'wear in' nicely.

Your situation is very similar to a situation I had back in 2000 when I bought a new Colt HBAR upper from someone for $200. That upper was exhibiting problems similar to yours, which is why the guy sold it at around half price. After doing all the above, it hasn't missed a beat since. I've seen a lot of this since then and again following the above 'recipe' helps immensely. Operator error/lack of lube etc should always be suspected first before assuming product defect.

The #1 problem I've seen with new folks and quality ARs is under-lubrication & not following the USGI operator & tech manuals - along with #2 issue being problematic non-USGI magazines. (#3 is for homebuilt 'parts guns' where various small springs are incorrectly exchanged or positioned incorrectly during assembly - esp disconnector spring and mag catch spring.)

zfields
08-21-2011, 11:01 AM
^^ My GF does this all the time, and like his AR, i never can get a round off

You like the OP, need to trade her off and get a old warhorse.

In your case, a semi worn in college age bar fly

In the OPs case, an AK :)

gunsarefun
08-21-2011, 11:02 AM
4) The BCG is LOCKED BACK and I am looking at the next round in the magazine

I have this issue every once and a while with mine. What is causing that?

kugmo
08-21-2011, 12:20 PM
I am confident Valkyrie will work to solve your problems.

In the meantime, some tips...


lube nicely using CLP. (Uncle Sugar uses it, so can you!) Don't mess around w/other lubes til you isolate issue
and your gun is running OK. CLP always works, and substution of other lubes is the exception rather than the rule.

For "what to lubricate", download the free USGI M16 operators's manual - might as well download the technical manual too!

These are master references that should be relied on before listening to urban legend or buying someone's magic lubricant
recipe, etc.
.
Use the chamber brush to vigorously scrub the chamber (using CLP). Then, clean/dry the chamber with a 'mop' attachment
on your cleaning rod. If you don't have a full USGI cleaning kit, go get one. Learn what all the attachments are there for.
, I

Take your bolt and lubricate (with CLP) the extractor and ejector. Exercise (using a popsicle stick, etc.) the travel of the
extractor and ejector several dozen or more times while watching TV - this allows you to 'work the system' and let CLP 'get
down in there'. Light thin coat of CLP on the bolt body and a drop inside the carrier area that receives the bolt - along with
a drop on the cam pin and in the gas key tube should set you up nicely.


I assume your rifle uses a BulletButton maglock. Sometimes a given mag can cause problems (carrier drag, etc.) especially
when a maglock must be used. If you are using some 10rd PMAGs, switch to regular USGI-like magazines and observe differences...



Using the chamber brush is especially important if your build has a non-chrome-lined "match" barrel.

Once the above is done your gun should operate reliably, and the gun will then operate to 'wear in' nicely.

Your situation is very similar to a situation I had back in 2000 when I bought a new Colt HBAR upper from someone for $200. That upper was exhibiting problems similar to yours, which is why the guy sold it at around half price. After doing all the above, it hasn't missed a beat since. I've seen a lot of this since then and again following the above 'recipe' helps immensely. Operator error/lack of lube etc should always be suspected first before assuming product defect.

The #1 problem I've seen with new folks and quality ARs is under-lubrication & not following the USGI operator & tech manuals - along with #2 issue being problematic non-USGI magazines. (#3 is for homebuilt 'parts guns' where various small springs are incorrectly exchanged or positioned incorrectly during assembly - esp disconnector spring and mag catch spring.)


- i have done what u recommended, im new to this so maybe part of it is user error :) , ill take it back to the range next saturday and fire more rounds, im using pmag 10/30 , i also tried those usgi mags that my friend had , although i did not see any issue, i only fired 100 rds using the mag, i moved back to pmag and the federal 223 ammo has an issue, i using .55 fmj .223 ammo using different brands , so far the federal has the issue yesterday

thanks for your input and to the rest who also gave their advice/opinions, ill repost again after the next range session

RustyMacHine
08-21-2011, 12:22 PM
- i have done what u recommended, im new to this so maybe part of it is user error :) , ill take it back to the range next saturday and fire more rounds, im using pmag 10/30 , i also tried those usgi mags that my friend had , although i did not see any issue, i only fired 100 rds using the mag, i moved back to pmag and the federal 223 ammo has an issue, i using .55 fmj .223 ammo using different brands , so far the federal has the issue yesterday

thanks for your input and to the rest who also gave their advice/opinions, ill repost again after the next range session

What range will that be?

bwiese
08-21-2011, 12:32 PM
- i have done what u recommended, im new to this so maybe part of it is user error :) , ill take it back to the range next saturday and fire more rounds, im using pmag 10/30 , i also tried those usgi mags that my friend had , although i did not see any issue, i only fired 100 rds using the mag, i moved back to pmag and the federal 223 ammo has an issue, i using .55 fmj .223 ammo using different brands , so far the federal has the issue yesterday


Federal ammo should not be a problem. Tons of people shoot that.

It appeasrsyou are saying Fed ammo + PMag 10/30 is an issue, but Fed ammo + USGI-style mag is not an issue. That means the PMag 10/30s are your problem - esp if you can shoot all brands of ammo from your USGI-style metal mags.

I do hear that modded PMag 10/30s are strage beasts and people buy them for 'cool factor', but they may cause more grief than they are worth.


[I assume you are not using a true 30rd USGI mag, since that would be illegal in a maglocked rifle.]

AR-15 Rep
08-21-2011, 12:43 PM
I have this issue every once and a while with mine. What is causing that?

Is it caused by the bolt catch? Or?

bwiese
08-21-2011, 12:52 PM
I have this issue every once and a while with mine. What is causing that?


Is it caused by the bolt catch? Or?

Lack of lube in bolt catch or using the wrong spring can cause this 'bolt lock-back hang'.

Common cause is usu poor initial lube + excess coating/finish on bolt catch and mating area in receiver groove.

Put several drops of CLP lube down there in mag catch opening, then manually and firmly exercise the bolt catch - thru its full range of motion, push and pull - several dozen times. This should 'wear in' any excess coating thickness issues if the catch and receiver are in spec, etc.

I will say that lubing and then hand-exercising the full range of motion of these various aspects of a build (mag catch, extractor, ejector, cam pin....) over many dozens of repetitions is the rough synthetic equivalent of running several hundred rounds thru your gun.

CSI304
08-21-2011, 12:59 PM
Federal ammo should not be a problem. Tons of people shoot that.

It appeasrsyou are saying Fed ammo + PMag 10/30 is an issue, but Fed ammo + USGI-style mag is not an issue. That means the PMag 10/30s are your problem - esp if you can shoot all brands of ammo from your USGI-style metal mags.

I do hear that modded PMag 10/30s are strage beasts and people buy them for 'cool factor', but they may cause more grief than they are worth.


[I assume you are not using a true 30rd USGI mag, since that would be illegal in a maglocked rifle.]

Yeah, I had quite a few issues with PMAG 10/30s, I thought it was just me.
But lately I've seen more evidence on this issue. It might have something to
do with the mag block, I never seems to be able to fit the 10th round properly.
The magazine cover doesn't stay shut during storage either.
I am sticking with D&H 10rds, they work perfect.

Coyotegunner
08-21-2011, 1:17 PM
Owned and shot many over 30 years.Break in on any gun I have purchased is total BS.Like I have told the cowboys when living in Alaska that carried sidearms for bears.Have you seen these bears and would you count your life on that pistol?Sorry just believe in Reliable guns.Slugs and 338s for bears.All of my ARs have been great from the start.I dismantle and inspect them before ever firing a shot.I do lube the bolt and moving parts with Break Free though.When you have it apart again.With safety glasses on,shoot some Brake Kleen down the gas port and see if it comes out the little hole leading to the barrel(sometimes the gas tube was cut rough or is not lined up on the barrel hole under the gas block).Next like someone suggested look the bolt over while rotating/sliding the bolt inside the bolt carrier.If it sticks a little once in a while,there may be some of the phosphate(like someone else said) inside where it moves in and out.I have had junk in there after repeated firing from new on other peoples guns.9 out of 10 I have helped people with were due to fouling in the bolt/bolt carrier,gas tube.The 2 that fell into another category were assembled wrong.Hope I helped.You want that thing to be 100% reliable.Keep in mind that bolt likes to be taken out and cleaned,oiled once in awhile.Watched a TV show the other day and a guy soaked a Daniel Def AR in a pond,pulled it out and shot it.It hung up once and his suggestion was right,that he had water get into the piston.Cleared the bad round and went to shooting.The issue you are having seems to be similar.Sorry about the cowboy story.

kugmo
08-21-2011, 1:26 PM
Federal ammo should not be a problem. Tons of people shoot that.

It appeasrsyou are saying Fed ammo + PMag 10/30 is an issue, but Fed ammo + USGI-style mag is not an issue. That means the PMag 10/30s are your problem - esp if you can shoot all brands of ammo from your USGI-style metal mags.

I do hear that modded PMag 10/30s are strage beasts and people buy them for 'cool factor', but they may cause more grief than they are worth.


[I assume you are not using a true 30rd USGI mag, since that would be illegal in a maglocked rifle.]



- im using a 10rd usgi mag specifically for CA AR, my friend has a colt-ar 15 and he used my pmags with federal and did not have any issue at all

thanks !!


-

kugmo
08-21-2011, 1:28 PM
What range will that be?



in Livermore Rod and Gun Club, maybe not this coming Saturday but next Saturday

bwiese
08-21-2011, 1:32 PM
- im using a 10rd usgi mag specifically for CA AR, my friend has a colt-ar 15 and he used my pmags with federal and did not have any issue at all

thanks !!


Magwell dimensions are not well-controlled across makes/models. Colts are a tad looser than Bushmasters and others, for example. Threre's no real tight spec.

If your gun does several hundred rounds of quality factory ammo without issue using a USGI-style 10rd mags, you are square - and it sounds like this is the case.

Your rifle may or may not like PMags, and that's PMag's problem - not your gun's. The thicker Pmags may bind in a tight but generally in-spec magwell. The bolt carrier may drag across some plastic flashing on top of a Pmag that has not worn in yet, either.

Mags do have variability so you might wanna try several of all kinds.

Methinks your rifle is actually OK after a proper lube and chamber cleaning.

kugmo
09-05-2011, 5:36 PM
hi all,

im happy to report that after re-lubing and cleaning the rifle, i went to the range yesterday and fire 200 rds of Federal 55 gr from Walmart, no FTE/FTF or any issues at all

thanks to all for the advice and everything, im enjoying my rifle now

cheers,
k