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sa champion
12-03-2006, 1:10 AM
I'm looking for a ruger 10/22 with adjustable fibor optics. Are the 10/22 trouble free? I believe MSRP is 285. How much should I expect to pay in Bay Area shop?

thanks

NeoWeird
12-03-2006, 2:10 AM
It depends.

When I bought my last 10/22 a couple months ago I believe I ended up paying a little over $200 out the door (I think it was like $218 or $228 or something) which was a little more than I wanted. If you wait for a sale you can get them for like $189. If you want the adjustable sight model you will be looking at a bit more money, like $20 before tax. If you are going to go buck wild with aftermarket parts get the cheapest one as you will most likely only need the receiver and trigger housing. If you want the cheapest of the cheap it's the 10/22RB. I'm not sure what the model number is for the adjustable sight version, but I think it might be the 10/22R.

RANGER295
12-03-2006, 9:36 AM
I think that price is a little steep. I have had a lot of problems with mine. It stove pipes constantly. Especially when you rapid fire it. It is not nearly as bad as it was when I got it. It may have just been a break in thing. I probably have around 10,000 rounds through it now. Someone told me that they work better when they are dirty so I stopped cleaning it. That was about the same time it started working better so I donít know which it was. IMO, the 10/22 is not perfect but it would still be my first choice for a semi-auto .22lr.

hylander
12-03-2006, 9:53 AM
Are the 10/22 trouble free?
Almost

I have had a lot of problems with mine. It stove pipes constantly. Especially when you rapid fire it.

The cure: Swap out the factory Extractor, for a Volqaurtsen Extractor.
5 Min swap. $10.00 ;)

It may have just been a break in thing
Breakin does make things start running smoother.

Someone told me that they work better when they are dirty so I stopped cleaning it.

Not True: Clean it up, breakin is what helped "not a dirty gun".

naimad
12-03-2006, 9:58 AM
ive had no problems with my 10/22. stay away form cci blazer in the grey and black box most 10/22s dont like this ammo for some reason . that price seems kind of high

M24
12-03-2006, 10:04 AM
I've had great success with my 10/22. Great little guns. I've probably put in excess of 5K rounds through it without issue. As far as price, the blude models generally go for a tad under $200, and the stainless ones seem to hover around $210 NIB, on sale. But, I live in S CA, and don't know about N CA prices.

mltrading
12-03-2006, 10:43 AM
Why not getting a bare receiver and put tons of aftermarket upgrade parts? Ruger 10/22 is fun.

By the way, anyone knows the difference between 10/22 carbine and 10/22 rifle? I've only seen 10/22 carbine receivers for sale. Seldom seen 10/22 rifle receivers for sale.

jtv3062
12-03-2006, 11:12 AM
during Thanksgiving I was at a super wal-mart in Coos Bay, Or and they had a long barrel 10/22, that might be the rifle you speak of. Oh yea theres like 4 gun stores in like 2 mile radious.

NeoWeird
12-03-2006, 11:25 AM
Ok, I just went a checked and according to Ruger the 10/22RB (cheapest and the way to go if you want to modify it) has an MSRP of $250. Like I said, I've seen it for $60-70 cheaper than that. The 10/22CRR (adjustable fiber optic sights) has the MSRP of $285, but you could probably see it as low as $220 when on sale. When I was in at Turners getting my last 10/22 they tried to get me to buy the 10/22RR (same as the CRR only the sights are not adjustable). According to Ruger this model has an MSRP of $275 ($10 less than the one you want) and Turners was selling it for $220 NOT on sale. I bet you could find the 10/22CRR (the one you want) for under $220 if you wait for a sale; so you'll probably be looking at like $260 out the door.

ETA: Just to address some things:

The semi-auto action ona Ruger is designed to GET dirty and function. It does not have a gas system or the likes, and the direct blow back causes gunk to build up in the rifle at a faster than normal pace compared to other firearms. The Ruger was designed with tolerances (or so I have been told by the knowledgable community at RFC) that allow it to function properly after it has 'warmed up'. Some people complain that their's does not run when they first clean it, but after the first 50 or so rounds it starts to get better. This is usually because the build up in the rifle starts to allow it to function within the range of tolerances it was designed for. This does NOT mean you don't clean your rifle. The advice RFC gives is to shoot your rifle and clean it ONLY when accuracy or reliability start to suffer. Usually every 500-1000 rounds or so.

The problem with the extractor is that they are not case hardened (which can cause the tips to deform) and they usually are set to a wider than needed gap to accomodate a larger range of rim thicknesses. The cure is, like stated, to either replace the extractor OR to take your current extractor and do some work to it. The basic things that are done is the extractor has a slightly steeped 'hook' put into it by heating it with a torch and slightly knocking it with a hammer. This may peen it outward a little so a polishing stone might be need for final fitting. Once it is fitted, you case harden it and you should get much more reliable extraction.

Keep in mind that a direct blow back does not NEED an extractor. The extractor is only for extracting live rounds; when the gun is fired the force of the expelling bullet pushes the bolt and case rearward. The extractor ONLY holds the case onto the bolt face until the case hits the ejector. The problem is that with those crappy extractors it allows the case to fall downward into the action before it hits the ejector which will cause stovepipes. Once the ejector is dealt with (and not ALL the ejectors are bad, but it is the most common problem with 10/22s that have problems) you will get nice hard ejections that should send the case far away from you. Some people have even claimed going from a 'splatter' around their bend to a nice clean pile several feet to the right and behind them.

50BMGBOB
12-03-2006, 2:38 PM
Big 5 sells them for @$210 on sale every few week. No shipping or dealer transfer. I love both of mine. Only jams with really cheap ammo or when it is really dirty. I'll fire 500 rounds in a sitting and only clean it every 4-5 times. Get a magazine speed loader for it. Your ammo bill will be higher but your thumb will thank you.

sa champion
12-04-2006, 8:10 AM
Big 5 sells them for @$210 on sale every few week. No shipping or dealer transfer. I love both of mine. Only jams with really cheap ammo or when it is really dirty. I'll fire 500 rounds in a sitting and only clean it every 4-5 times. Get a magazine speed loader for it. Your ammo bill will be higher but your thumb will thank you.


No dealer transfer? Do you mean there is NO firearm transfer fee on long guns? That would be SWEET :) !

Anyway, I assume the DOJ registration fee is the same as handgun, $35?

There is a Gun range by Lake Merced. According to their web, they have an indoor range for 22lr rifles. Several clubs have reservations to use their range on Thursday nights. Just want to know if anyone is a member and can tell me more about these. They are "golden gate rifle club", olympic rifle club", "PG & E rifle club" and USF rifle club. I tried a search for the "golden gate rifle club" but could not find more information.

Prince50
12-04-2006, 8:19 AM
No I think he means no $60 fee for doing a dealer transfer. DROS fees still apply, but most dealers do not look kindly at customers shipping guns into thier shop. They charge a transfer fee to recoup the profits they lost when you bought the rifle elsewhere.

CALDOJ only protects FTF transfers. They only allow a $10 add on fee for those, but dealer transfers are wide open.

Darin

SemiAutoSam
12-04-2006, 8:29 AM
I think of this procedure as somewhat like USE TAX when you buy a car outside of California and the DMV or FTB charges you tax when the item wasn't even purchased here.

Well I did say somewhat.



No I think he means no $60 fee for doing a dealer transfer. DROS fees still apply, but most dealers do not look kindly at customers shipping guns into their shop. They charge a transfer fee to recoup the profits they lost when you bought the rifle elsewhere.

CALDOJ only protects FTF transfers. They only allow a $10 add on fee for those, but dealer transfers are wide open.

Darin

Blacktail 8541
12-04-2006, 8:31 AM
Here ya go. It was just listed this morning.

http://www.sturmgewehr.com/webBBS/semi4sale.cgi?read=143957

Semi-Auto Market Board

WTS: Ruger 10/22 Carbine, NIB, $180

Posted By: mark near g'boro, nc <cheshirecat90(nospam)@yahoo.com> (ACA202BA.ipt.aol.com)
Date: 12/3/06 13:50

WTS: $180 plus shipping. NIB Ruger 10/22 Carbine, blued with standard wood stock, 18" standard barrel. Comes with trigger gunlock, box, manual, 10rd Ruger mag and 1 30rd Eagle mag. Please remove (nospam) to email for questions


Sam , the only problem with that sale is the fact that you still have to pay for Transfer fees + Dros + shipping. The tansfer fees will make the price higher than the magority of the prices you will find locally. Dros you have to pay anyway, shipping = sales tax.

blkA4alb
12-04-2006, 4:19 PM
Anyway, I assume the DOJ registration fee is the same as handgun, $35?

There is no registration for long guns. I can't believe how many people think there is :eek: .

NeoWeird
12-04-2006, 4:37 PM
There is no registration for long guns. I can't believe how many people think there is :eek: .

I hear it alot too, but most of the time people are referring to the DROS as they think that is the registration paperwork.

blkA4alb
12-04-2006, 4:40 PM
I hear it alot too, but most of the time people are referring to the DROS as they think that is the registration paperwork.
Yeah, and I wonder how many of these people are building there OLLs illegally because they think they registered it :rolleyes: .

Smoothiesd
12-04-2006, 5:00 PM
Then you can build one of these when you get some extra $$$ laying around. I love shooting my 10/22. I just built the red one for the girlfriend.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j216/Smoothiesd/100_0329.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j216/Smoothiesd/ruger.jpg

NeoWeird
12-04-2006, 5:03 PM
Nice. I am in the middle of sanding down my second 10/22 stock to do a custom rig for my future wife. It's about 75% done, but I need to get a sand paper pad so I can sand the thing flat as I am getting VERY subtle waves from my fingers not always pushing the same and I don't want anything showing up when it's painted.

Is there any custom and/or self done work in it or is it all aftermarket parts?

xenophobe
12-04-2006, 6:35 PM
The semi-auto action ona Ruger is designed to GET dirty and function.

As are most firearms. A Ruger 10/22 should be cleaned like any other rifle, and you should clean it regularly.

To break in a 10/22 you should use only high velocity, raptors, minimags, etc... Fire a brick before doing anything to the gun.

You also do not want to lube the trigger group. A common mistake, even a lot of the 'folks' at RFC will oil their trigger groups. The trigger/sear surfaces will take much longer to mate properly if they are oiled.


The cure is, like stated, to either replace the extractor OR to take your current extractor and do some work to it. The basic things that are done is the extractor has a slightly steeped 'hook' put into it by heating it with a torch and slightly knocking it with a hammer. This may peen it outward a little so a polishing stone might be need for final fitting. Once it is fitted, you case harden it and you should get much more reliable extraction.

The factory extractor is punched sheet metal. The Power Custom or VQ extractor are both EDM cut and hardened. As you said, these extractors have a much more aggressive angle, a sharpe edge and are more durable. Most 10/22's don't need any work done to them.


Keep in mind that a direct blow back does not NEED an extractor. The extractor is only for extracting live rounds; when the gun is fired the force of the expelling bullet pushes the bolt and case rearward. The extractor ONLY holds the case onto the bolt face until the case hits the ejector. The problem is that with those crappy extractors it allows the case to fall downward into the action before it hits the ejector which will cause stovepipes. Once the ejector is dealt with (and not ALL the ejectors are bad, but it is the most common problem with 10/22s that have problems) you will get nice hard ejections that should send the case far away from you. Some people have even claimed going from a 'splatter' around their bend to a nice clean pile several feet to the right and behind them.

If you want your rifle to cycle and function, yes it NEEDS an extractor.

SemiAutoSam
12-04-2006, 6:40 PM
Here is one that is a little cheaper and or a little closer to the price im use to paying. I remember buying these things for 100-125.00

Anyhow here is it.


Semi-Auto Market Board

WTS: NIB Ruger 10/22 Blued w/Synthetic Stock $165.

Posted By: MarkRin HI <konamark@hawaiiantel.net> (udp129838uds.hawaiiantel.net)
Date: 12/3/06 22:10

Hi,
I have a new Ruger 10/22 blued with black synthetic stock for sale. Still in the green plastic sleeve. I bought a few years for a project that I never started. Comes in original box with manual, scope base, and ruger lock. I will sell it for $165.00 shipped to your FFL dealer. Add $35.00 and I will install a new Volquartson Hammer for a lighter crisp trigger. I will also ship the factory trigger.

I'm figuring that shipping will cost me at least $15.00 from Hawaii, included in the price!

Thanks, Mark

http://www.sturmgewehr.com/webBBS/semi4sale.cgi?read=144011

Smoothiesd
12-04-2006, 7:17 PM
Is there any custom and/or self done work in it or is it all aftermarket parts?
It is all aftermarket parts on both rifles. But I can say that I did put them together though. I know, not real tough but there is still some satisfaction in that.

5968
12-04-2006, 8:16 PM
I love the 10/22. I own a total of three. two of them are totally stock and the third is modified. The only thing that is original on the third is the receiver. I have never had any problems from any of them. I have been shooting my first 10/22 for almost 24 years. It still shoots as good today as the dau that my dad gave it to me.

rayra
12-04-2006, 9:12 PM
I've enjoyed my 10/22 for many years. Pretty much over any ammo finickyness. More problems arose from poor quality mags. The 'steel lips' variety are mandatory, as far as I'm concerned.

One mod I found nice was the retrofitting of a 10/22mag bolt / cocking handle onto the 10/22's guiderod, for a nicer larger handle.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=12047&title=COCKING+HANDLE%2c+GUIDE+ROD+%26+RECOIL+SPRIN G+ASSEMBLY

I also added an extended bolt catch/release and an extended mag release. All simple mods that improved the ergonomics and at a low cost.