View Full Version : Recoil buffers? UPDATE: Glock Guide Rods.....

05-01-2011, 11:46 AM
Any of you guys use these on your handguns? I've seen them for 1911's, Glocks, and others.

Do they affect loading & ejecting? Do they really save that much wear & tear to make them worth buying?

Here's a link to a guy selling them: http://www.sksman.com/acces/Recoil_buffers2.php

OK.. thanks for all the input on the above.

Now... what about S.S. & Tungsten (heavier) spring rods for Glocks? :D


Anyone mess with those?

05-01-2011, 12:02 PM
Theres mixed reviews on them. I have a buffer for my Ak but i dont see or feel any difference. In terms of handguns, I dont think you need it. They are built to function the way they are and any foreign object might affect the action. The OEM recoil guide rod and recoild spring is sufficient.

05-01-2011, 12:05 PM
Yeah, I know that with AK's & SKS's, they're suppose to keep the bolt from slamming into the rear of the bolt cover... reducing some felt recoil & saving some wear on the pieces that are colliding. I just didn't think that that was a huge issue with modern handguns/ rifles in general.

05-01-2011, 12:07 PM
I use them on one of my 1911. Reason I use one is that the frame is hardened aluminum with a ss slide. Logically it should help with ware on the frame.

05-01-2011, 12:21 PM
That would make sense... the same would seem to apply for Glocks.

05-01-2011, 1:48 PM
Guns ran fine before them....there's the chance of them breaking up and causing malfunction, so why? To reduce wear? How many guns have you guys worn out? How many worn out guns have you seen?

It's a gimmick. Does it help reduce the impact? Sure. Was there a problem before? No. I'm always wary of solutions to nonexistent problems that add extra parts/complications to possibly break and CAUSE problems.

05-01-2011, 2:30 PM
What Q619 said^^^
In the 70's I ran a Detonics rod and buffer in my 1911. After about 10,000 rounds I learned how to shoot it right and took that junk off. I used to buy Berry's Bullets when he was in Fontana by the 1,000. That 1911 never broke.

05-01-2011, 5:04 PM
Recoil buffers work as well as gadgets you install on your engine to increase gas mileage.

At best, they put addition strain on the slide stop pint or whatever other part is retaining your slide, at worst they affect the recoil impulse of the gun returning to POI from muzzle flip or break apart and jam up the gun (polymer buffers)

The most dangerous thing they introduce to the function of a gun is that they limit the slide travel. Unless they were designed to use one, it is generally a bad idea...even some factory designed ones (H&K USP) aren't very good

05-01-2011, 5:22 PM
Thanks guys! Appreciate all the input.

05-01-2011, 5:26 PM
I tried one in my 1911 for a whopping 1 range session. The buffer did not allow enough rearward travel of the slide to disengage the slide stop when trying to rack it during reloads. Only being able to depress the slide stop to put it back in battery is bad ju-ju so I took it out as soon as I got home. I'd rather have it fully functional as designed instead of limiting functionality to save on a little potential wear.

05-01-2011, 9:50 PM
buffers and such shouldn't be used on a "duty" pistol that you use for reliability purposes. They're a self-sacrificing part (if they're the polymer type usually) and they will eat up some of the impact on a frame. Most useful in running excessively hot loads. Very detrimental for soft loads.

I would use if I converted my beretta 96 to run .357sig. I wouldn't use it if I was handloading some very soft shooting .40's. I wouldn't even consider it if I was carrying the gun.

05-02-2011, 12:24 AM
Is the current guide rod not doing it's job? If you're looking to reduce felt recoil/muzzle flip, then practice is the best answer.

05-02-2011, 5:37 AM
Yes. I have a full length stainless steel guide rod for my G34. It doesn't really help.

Yes. I also have a full length tungsten guide rod for my G34. It doesn't really help.

Even with all the extra weight forward (which is where you want it) it doesn't really make a difference. Now when you're talking about using it on shorter length firearms like the G17 and it's siblings, it'll make the difference even more negligible.

The only reason why I use the stainless steel rod on my G34 is because it's not captive and allows me to quickly replace the spring for a new one. My G34 is strictly a USPSA competition gun and runs with a light spring due to my reloads. Between my range practice and matches, I was changing it out every 2-3 months. All my other Glocks use the plastic OEM guide rod.

Everyone equipment chases in search of answer to help their shooting. I was no different. The reality is once you learn how to shoot a handgun properly, gear becomes less and less important.

Also a heavier spring is going to give you more "feedback" on the gun. Think of it as changing the way the gun 'accelerates' backwards. Instead of slowly coming to a stop, you now have a heavier spring in there. As the gun cycles, it pushes on the spring, but instead of the spring "compressing" right away, it stays in position slightly "longer" since it's stronger and takes more force to compress. This in turn pushes against your hand sooner, imparting more felt recoil.

I having a sneaking suspicion that despite all this advice 'against' getting these gimmicks, you're still going to go out and get them. Enjoy :43:

05-02-2011, 7:18 AM
Is the current guide rod not doing it's job? If you're looking to reduce felt recoil/muzzle flip, then practice is the best answer.

I wouldn't say that. I'm just looking more for answers as to whether or not these actually do anything to help shooting stability. My Glock 21 is compensated (21c), and the barrel rise is pretty minimal compared to my Sigma .40.

IF these things did anything to help reduce barrel rise... so I can get on target with my follow-up shots even quicker... I would be very interested. BUT, it sounds like they're just sturdier replacement parts.