View Full Version : 10/22 dry fire ok?

04-24-2011, 2:43 AM
I'm borrowing one, and don't have any experience with them. Eyeballing the bolt, I'd say headspace seems to exceed firing pin protrusion. No breech face strike should be possible. Not sure about the pin stop internally. Ok to dry fire?

04-24-2011, 2:48 AM
.22 + dry fire = bad.

04-24-2011, 2:50 AM
Usually not a good idea with 22's but Ruger says the 10/22 is ok to dry fire.

04-24-2011, 8:07 AM
Its ok with the 10/22, without the last round hold open feature, it happens at the end of nearly every magazine. The firing pin on a 10/22 is designed so it hits the bolt before it hits the end of the barrel unlike most .22's. Not to say you should just dryfire the hell out of it, eventually the firing pin or bolt will peen down enought to touch the barrel.

04-24-2011, 9:46 AM
There is a firing pin over-travel stop on the 1022, an like it was said above, it is bound to happen.

04-24-2011, 11:24 AM
Ya know, my first gun was a used 10-22 and was shot thousands of rounds (before it was stolen from my brothers house) and at the end of each magazine full, the gun was dryfired---never gave it a second thought---I would NOT recommend this on most other 22s---the Rugers just don't seem to care. I have two 10-22s currently (one old "pre-warning" Deluxe Sporter and a full-on Volquartsen conversion)---they go on and on...

04-24-2011, 2:22 PM
can someone explain why its SO bad to dry fire the .22's that are not a Ruger 10/22 please? I have dry fired my 10/22 a bunch and see no negative effect. The smith&wesson M&P 15-22 I own states NOT to dry fire and I just dont understand why? the pin would not be hitting a primer/rim and would stop in its natural place in the bolt right; doesn't the pin do the same thing when actually firing except that hit hits the primer/rim? would the pin just grind down that much metal to protrude too much in the primer/rim? I just dont see the reasoning behind the mechanics. thanks calguns :D

I know everyone has dry fired a gun at least once in their life.

04-24-2011, 2:29 PM
In other .22s, if you dry fire it may cause the firing pin to strike the breech face, which may eventually peen the face of the metal into the chamber, resulting in feeding and extraction issues.

04-24-2011, 2:39 PM
Generally, is not recommended that you dry fire a RIM FIRE weapon; meaning the powder is ignited in the shell casing when the firing pin hits the 'RIM' at the base of the casing, as opposed to 'center fire' weapons, where the firing pin hits the casing dead center for firing!...
Depending on the firing mechanism in RIM FIRE weapons, damage could occur to the outer edges of the bullet chamber housing.

Get some dry fire casings, a six pack should set you back $10 online....

c good
04-24-2011, 3:50 PM
I have an old Sears or Wards bolt action .22LR. I think it was actually made by Marlin. When I got it it wouldn't extract. When it did extract, it had a noticeable scratch on the casing. Sure enough, it had a burr on the rim of he chamber where the firing pin had hit it when someone dry fired it. I polished out the burr. No trouble since. HTH c good

04-24-2011, 3:55 PM
Dry fire the hell out of it. Nothing bad will happen. If it does, PM me, I'll pay for the damage.

Ruger expects everyone to dry fire it as the last shot does not hold the bolt back. I dry fire all of my guns a lot and have never seen any damage. Except my P22. Because of it's unique design I don't feel comfortable dry firing it. But all my other guns get dry fired.

04-24-2011, 4:24 PM
Thanks for the feedback. I'm a big fan of dry fire practice for trigger control; it's helped me a lot, particularly with the Glock. Never been shy about it with modern centerfires, but have been avoiding it with rimfires inasmuch as reasonably possible. Looks like that can change with the 10/22.

04-24-2011, 4:37 PM
I bought a pack of snap caps and use them when I have to dry fire after a cleaning. Snake oil? I don't know - but it's cheap insurance if there is some truth to .22 dry fire damage.

04-24-2011, 5:03 PM
Dry fire away. Your firing pin is limited in movement by a roll pin, so it shouldn't ever hit the barrel. You can remove your bolt and manually push the firing pin all the way forward. You'll see there is nothing to worry about.

04-25-2011, 12:42 PM
can someone explain why its SO bad to dry fire the .22's that are not a Ruger 10/22 please?

The level to which it is 'so bad' will just vary for each rimfire. Most good 22LR guns are designed to have some mechanism for preventing the firing pin from whacking the breech (and possibly eventually mashing it out of shape a little). Ruger 10/22's do, some do not.

04-25-2011, 4:17 PM
My old ruger 10/22 has had 25years worth of dry firing
from an empty mag
No BHO...happens every time.


04-25-2011, 4:19 PM
I've read in online that it is not recommended in bolt action rimfire's, however, it seems to vary from gun to gun.

04-25-2011, 5:51 PM
Exactaly, it depends if the gun was designed with a firing pin stop. Some are, some are not. I've read in online that it is not recommended in bolt action rimfire's, however, it seems to vary from gun to gun.

04-25-2011, 6:24 PM
You can always put a fired case in the chamber where it was not hit before to cushion a couple test dry fires in almost all .22s.