View Full Version : 10/22 Upgrades to trigger pull of Henry

02-20-2011, 5:30 PM
So I go a 10/22 I want a better trigger pull a lighter one my dad has a Henry Lever action .22 I want the same pull off his gun on mine is there a way to find out how many ibs his pull is so i can transfer that measurement over too my 10/22? Also I want the dam bolt to hold open on the last shot is there a way to do that?

02-20-2011, 5:55 PM

02-20-2011, 6:09 PM
how would you expect a magazine to hold the bolt back?

i fixed my trigger i took the hammer out and polished its sear mating surface really good then put a bit of stalube grease on it and it now breaks ad around the weight of the rifle

i figured if i screwed it up i could just buy another hammer

my basic test(rule of thumb) of a trigger is i put the rifle muzzle down and lift the gun by the trigger if it goes off its just about right

02-20-2011, 6:24 PM
Get a good trigger pull scale


02-20-2011, 7:05 PM
You could buy a new trigger group from Tony Kidd or VQ. Or you could polish your trigger parts to improve the trigger. The easiest way to better a 10/22 trigger is to install a VQ or Power Custom hammer. I don't know what the trigger pull is on your dad's rifle, but an after market hammer in a 10/22 will drop the trigger pull from around 8 lbs to around 3lbs.

You can modify the rifle to stay open after the last round but you'll have to buy special mags which is a PITA IMO.

I can post instructions on how to do the trigger yourself if you're interested.

IMO, the best thing you can do to improve a 10/22 is:
-polish the trigger parts
-replace the hammer
-replace the ejector
-replace the buffer

02-20-2011, 9:14 PM
Mull over this good tutorial:

Here's a another:

02-20-2011, 9:16 PM
I polished all my stuff... worked really well and was noticeable lighter.
I eventually got a complete VQ trigger.. if you can spare the coin, this is well worth it.

02-20-2011, 9:18 PM
XDrox, I agree, I also use the PC hammer or hammer and sear kits, that come with pivot pin shims and springs. Very nice improvement for $40 to $70.

You do mean replace the extractor, right?

02-20-2011, 10:01 PM
So theres no really simple way of getting the bolt to stay open after the last shot? POOR DESIGN GRRR!!!!!! 54 dollars seems like alot of money that could go towards ammo insted of something im going to use once but I may do that thank you very much for your imput.

02-21-2011, 2:02 AM
IMO, the best thing you can do to improve a 10/22 is:
-polish the trigger parts
-replace the hammer
-replace the ejector
-replace the buffer

I see replacing the buffer mentioned a lot, what advantages does an aftermarket buffer have over the stock one?

02-21-2011, 6:21 AM
The stock bolt stop pin on the 10/22 is a steel pin that goes thru the aluminum receiver. Everytime you fire the gun, the bolt slams into this pin. The replacement buffers that lots of people use are usually made from a urethane or plastic material that has a little bit of give to it. The theory behind it is the steel pin may eventually wear or elongate the hole in the receiver and the replacement buffer won't. Many swear by them while others have shot tens of thousands of rounds with the stock pin and have had no problems. YMMV.

02-21-2011, 8:31 AM
You do mean replace the extractor, right?


02-21-2011, 11:09 AM
RRAGES sells a trigger group as wellfor $59.

RRAGES 3 Pound 10/22 Trigger Kit (http://rrages.com/1022/trigger/kit/index.htm)

From RRAGES Website: This is our drop in trigger and hammer to reduce your trigger pull to a crisp 3 lbs. The kit includes a blue trigger with over travel stop screw, a stainless hammer and adjustment wrench. Hammer bushings are not required. The engagement surfaces are pre-cut to optimal angles for the best 10/22 trigger pull you will ever experience without being dangerously light. This excellent kit will do more to improve the accuracy of your 10/22 than any other component. 100% satisfaction guarantee.

02-23-2011, 4:02 PM
So the gauge online was a little expencive for what I was going to do so I went to Walmart and bought a fish scale to use its same basic thing as what was online so now i can find the pull I want off the henry in the exact ibs of what it would be and transfer that over to buying an aftermarket trigger with the same ibs of pull. Thanks for everyones input and compulsivegunbuyer thanks for that I may see about that as an option.

02-23-2011, 4:19 PM
I have been through all the fancy after market 10-22 bling and have come to find that the only thing that needs to be addressed in the Ruger trigger housing is the trigger pull. Find a real gunsmith, not one on eBay or Craigslist. Have them do a proper trigger job which usually goes for $85 to $95. Polishing this and polishing that because you watched it on YouTube will more than likely run you into trouble.

02-23-2011, 4:28 PM
Yea I used to take my gun to a local Gunsmith but I had a 1913 Winchester .22 LR model 1894 that has been in the family since 1913 and at some point the sights fell off or where took off so I needed sights put on it something I probably could have done myself but I didnt really have the time so I took it to him and expected a quick turn around time after a month of him having my gun and me hounding him to give me a call back to at least know that my gun was safe, he calls me and tells me its ready I was to say the least PISSED at the fact that I couldnt get ahold of him for over a month and so I havent found a new gunsmith so I was just going to buy an aftermarket trigger with a better then plastic trigger gaurd.

02-23-2011, 6:40 PM
There was a metal housed trigger assembly for sale on RimfireCentral just the other day!

Periods are a writer's best friend!

02-27-2011, 9:54 AM
The best trigger is the Kidd. I've gone through various upgrades (polishing, etc.) to Volquartsen to Kidd. It's pricey, but well worth the price.