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View Full Version : My new upper is super tight? Help?


robgon
02-20-2011, 3:38 PM
I just received my striped Daniel Defense upper yesterday and went ti fasten it on my spikes lower. The rear pin slides in fine but the front pin is impossible to slide in with your fingers even pressing really hard. Any thoughts on this one? Not sure what to do. Any help is appreciated.

Cokebottle
02-20-2011, 3:40 PM
Secure the front pin with the upper hinged forward as if opened for cleaning.
Most new lowers and uppers are very tight on the front pin.

robgon
02-20-2011, 3:43 PM
I did and it still won't go in with using my hands. I have to use tools to get it in. But I shouldn't have to use tools.

IsaacGlass
02-20-2011, 3:44 PM
Sent it to me and I'll break it in for you :D

Jpach
02-20-2011, 3:52 PM
Start with the front pin first. Then use the tool to put the rear one in. Then use the tool to pop it out, then back in and out until it loosens up. Also, perhaps you can press on the top rear of the upper while you firmly hold the pistol grip with your other hand while you try to push that rear pin in. Thats how I HAVE to do it on my LMT .308

1forall
02-20-2011, 3:58 PM
I'm not sure how tight it is, but it'll loosen up alittle bit with use.

Cokebottle
02-20-2011, 4:16 PM
But I shouldn't have to use tools.
Who says?

Once the pin is inserted, you're going to need something to tap into the left side to drive it out enough to get a grip on the head.

A brass/urethane hammer and brass punches are the staples of a gunsmith.

If it will go in with a tool, carefully drive it in with a tool. I've never had a brand new AR (I've assembled/disassembled 7 different units, including a Ruger SR556) that would assemble or break down without assistance the first 8-10 times. The holes are drilled to spec. The anodized coating has some thickness. It needs some wear/polishing, plus the "points" on the detents fit pretty tightly into the catches in the pins (and the selector lever). There is some roughness to the hard coating on the parts and they need to wear in.

GMG
02-20-2011, 4:22 PM
Who says?

Once the pin is inserted, you're going to need something to tap into the left side to drive it out enough to get a grip on the head.

A brass/urethane hammer and brass punches are the staples of a gunsmith.

If it will go in with a tool, carefully drive it in with a tool. I've never had a brand new AR (I've assembled/disassembled 7 different units, including a Ruger SR556) that would assemble or break down without assistance the first 8-10 times. The holes are drilled to spec. The anodized coating has some thickness. It needs some wear/polishing, plus the "points" on the detents fit pretty tightly into the catches in the pins (and the selector lever). There is some roughness to the hard coating on the parts and they need to wear in.


What he said.:)

Veggie
02-20-2011, 5:03 PM
that's what she said!

bohoki
02-20-2011, 5:26 PM
front pin first always because dimensions are much more critical at the front than the back

i ran into an upper that the rear wouldnt lock so i had to oval the hole slightly with a chainsaw file

are you saying that the front hole is not large enough to fit the pin in ? cause that would just be weird

robgon
02-20-2011, 5:56 PM
Who says?

Once the pin is inserted, you're going to need something to tap into the left side to drive it out enough to get a grip on the head.

A brass/urethane hammer and brass punches are the staples of a gunsmith.

If it will go in with a tool, carefully drive it in with a tool. I've never had a brand new AR (I've assembled/disassembled 7 different units, including a Ruger SR556) that would assemble or break down without assistance the first 8-10 times. The holes are drilled to spec. The anodized coating has some thickness. It needs some wear/polishing, plus the "points" on the detents fit pretty tightly into the catches in the pins (and the selector lever). There is some roughness to the hard coating on the parts and they need to wear in.

Did exactly what you said and gently pushed it in with my roll punch and brass hammer, it was really tight and I didn't want to ruin an upper. Thanks for all your assistance. After is was installed all the way I pulled the rear pin out and opened, and closed the upper several times for five or ten minutes and now its fells perfect!

Hump0311
02-20-2011, 7:56 PM
Did exactly what you said and gently pushed it in with my roll punch and brass hammer, it was really tight and I didn't want to ruin an upper. Thanks for all your assistance. After is was installed all the way I pulled the rear pin out and opened, and closed the upper several times for five or ten minutes and now its fells perfect!

And now you know