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chickenfried
08-12-2006, 12:03 PM
Pics of my first attempt at refinishing a stock. Before anyone gets their panties in a bundle, no cartouches were harmed. Well at least, I didn't see any after the sanding ;) :p . Just a beat up old garand stock, I wanted to practice on before doing the $$$ m14 tiger from Fred's.

http://static.flickr.com/84/213335102_014d98d270_o.jpg
http://static.flickr.com/67/213335105_240630ad98_o.jpg
http://static.flickr.com/92/213358962_1487635ea0_o.jpg
http://static.flickr.com/73/213335100_3bc84c0da9_o.jpg
http://static.flickr.com/79/213336294_724cfd6c91_o.jpg

M. Sage
08-12-2006, 2:09 PM
What did you use for the refinish (stripper and finish-wise)?

And how'd you get those vertical stripes? Was that the wood??

chickenfried
08-12-2006, 2:18 PM
Formsby's furniture refinisher 2X, should've quit after first stripping, worse coloring after second strip. 2 coats of R. Gale lock 1884 Dark Walnut stain followed by one coat of minwax natural 209. Rub down with 0000 steel wool then Minwax tung oil finish 5X.

The vertical striping is the wood.

NRAhighpowershooter
08-12-2006, 4:42 PM
Personally I like the tigger striping in the birch stocks :)

M. Sage
08-12-2006, 5:47 PM
Hmm, I did my 91/30 a little differently, but the finish I took off was shellac (I refinished the rifle 'cause the shellac was melting off).

I stripped it with furniture stripper from Ace Hardware, took about 3 strips because the shellac was thick as hell on the butt. Then I sanded with 400 grit, then steel wool and washed with soap and water. Let it dry overnight and rubbed in Formby's Tung Oil. Looks great now, and the finish isn't "greasy" feeling when my hands get sweaty.

chickenfried
08-12-2006, 6:00 PM
After steaming out some of the dents,I also sanded with 220(?) then 440 grit sandpaper. But after the steel wool I'd just wipe down with a shop paper towel to get rid of the steel wool sheddings.

Here's the next project:
http://static.flickr.com/64/176667619_ca0dcffbe2_o.jpg
http://static.flickr.com/52/176667618_0d86834f32_o.jpg


Hmm, I did my 91/30 a little differently, but the finish I took off was shellac (I refinished the rifle 'cause the shellac was melting off).

I stripped it with furniture stripper from Ace Hardware, took about 3 strips because the shellac was thick as hell on the butt. Then I sanded with 400 grit, then steel wool and washed with soap and water. Let it dry overnight and rubbed in Formby's Tung Oil. Looks great now, and the finish isn't "greasy" feeling when my hands get sweaty.

dwtt
08-12-2006, 9:09 PM
How do you tell what kind of wood the stock is made of? I have 2 CMP M1's and one is darker than the other, but I think this is just from the finish and not the wood's natural colors? I'd like to refinish my Garands some day, but I know nothing about working with wood.
BTW, your first attempt looks pretty good to me.

wuhungsix
08-15-2006, 2:11 AM
I wanted to refinish my stock but I can't get the dang furule off of the stock. I thought about tapping it off, but I don't want to damage it. Any tricks from you Garand experts?

metalhead357
08-15-2006, 6:40 AM
I wanted to refinish my stock but I can't get the dang furule off of the stock. I thought about tapping it off, but I don't want to damage it. Any tricks from you Garand experts?

If its stuck then GENTLY tap it off with a rubber mallet, or use a piece of scrap wood up against it and use a regular hammer- but be GENTLE!

icormba
08-19-2006, 2:48 PM
How do you tell what kind of wood the stock is made of? I have 2 CMP M1's and one is darker than the other, but I think this is just from the finish and not the wood's natural colors? I'd like to refinish my Garands some day, but I know nothing about working with wood.
BTW, your first attempt looks pretty good to me.

A majority of the M1 stocks are made of Walnut(original/some replacements) or Birch(original replacements)... Some European returns can also be found in Beech(replacements). Beech has little cresent moon looking flakes in some spots. I have also seen Mahogany(not from CMP!).

Walnut is usually easy to differentiate from Birch... Walnut is a darker wood and the birch a lighter wood, sometimes orange/blond or brown with yellowish "tiger" stripes.

Then there are sometimes issues with the some replacement walnut stocks... I have a Walnut Overton stock that looks like birch "tiger stripe", but it is really walnut "sap wood".
http://m1garand.net/M1Pics/Chris/CMP_HRA_cleaned.jpg

Normal Walnut:
old USGI stock: has that old oiled red'ish hue look
http://m1garand.net/M1Pics/Chris/springfield.jpg
new CMP/Boyd stock:
http://m1garand.net/M1Pics/Chris/dane/IMG_1946.JPG


Birch:
Birch from a Greek return:
http://m1garand.net/M1Pics/Chris/HRA_Greek_Rack.jpg

Beech:
from a Danish return:
http://m1garand.net/M1Pics/Chris/Dane_CMP_SA.jpg
*handguards are walnut

Some history I learned the past few years...
Europe:
Birch or Artic Birch is the main wood used in old Russian & Finnish arms.
European Walnut is lighter than American Walnut... and was used from time to time, but not as much as the US used Walnut... or so it seems?
Beech was used by almost all the Western Eurpeans... Danes, Brits, Swedes, and German laminate (K98's and such) is supposed be of beech.

American Walnut has been used by the US for years and years and years.
American Birch was used after walnut started to become real expensive or less available?

M. Sage
08-19-2006, 7:12 PM
Hmm, I wonder what the wood my 91/30 stock is made of. It's way darker than that birch and lacks the stripes. (It was much lighter in the shellac, but dark with tung oil in it.)

icormba
08-19-2006, 10:48 PM
Hmm, I wonder what the wood my 91/30 stock is made of. It's way darker than that birch and lacks the stripes. (It was much lighter in the shellac, but dark with tung oil in it.)

Which country? A US Westinghouse made might be walnut... Hungarian are beech but probably wouldn't have been shallac'ed. Birch is a lighter colored wood, but oil will darken it while shallac may not.

Got any pics? I'm pretty good at guessing wood types :)

M. Sage
08-20-2006, 3:25 PM
Stripped (and a dog):

http://f5.putfile.com/6/17511534827.jpg

First coat... I thought it was done, but was wrong:

http://f5.putfile.com/6/17514142882.jpg

Finished... a bit out of focus, I should really take a better shot:

http://f5.putfile.com/6/17623333755.jpg

Oh, I forgot you asked the nationality. Soviet (1942, Ishevsk).

anothergunnut
08-20-2006, 4:50 PM
The ferrule that holds the read handguard in place is pinned (at least it is designed to be).

icormba
08-21-2006, 8:28 PM
Stripped (and a dog):

http://f5.putfile.com/6/17511534827.jpg

Oh, I forgot you asked the nationality. Soviet (1942, Ishevsk).

yeah, that's birch.

M. Sage
08-22-2006, 6:01 PM
Thanks! Glad I finally know what it is. :D

Boomer1961
08-22-2006, 9:23 PM
After steaming out some of the dents,I also sanded with 220(?) then 440 grit sandpaper. But after the steel wool I'd just wipe down with a shop paper towel to get rid of the steel wool sheddings.

Here's the next project:
http://static.flickr.com/64/176667619_ca0dcffbe2_o.jpg
http://static.flickr.com/52/176667618_0d86834f32_o.jpg

Can I ask how you did your steam out of the dings?

I ask because you should have been able to do alot better than what is shown in the pics of your practice project.

Maybe its just that it is a practice project that you did not chase after all the dings, only refined your technique for doing such?

GOOD LUCK ON YOUR PROJECT!:D

chickenfried
08-22-2006, 11:06 PM
I used an iron and a water soaked hand towel. I think I could've done a little better on the dents, but not much. A lot of them weren't steamable dents, but gouges or scratches with missing wood. Plus I got lazy, there were just so mannnnny..............

phish
08-22-2006, 11:10 PM
While working on one of my stocks, I found out that there are some dents that just won't be raised with a moist towel. I actually had to wet the wood itself with distilled water, then hit it directly with the tip of the iron to raise the dents, and only after countless tries.

All those articles you've read in the magazines where they show before and after pictures are from typical handling bumps, not from Greek or Danish training exercises. ;)

icormba
08-23-2006, 8:40 PM
Greek or Danish training exercises. ;)
you're not kidding!! :)

All oils need to be removed for it to work right. The Greeks & Danes are so soaked that it makes it super hard. A lot of those Greeks dug and carved into the wood... those will never come out :(

chickenfried
08-23-2006, 8:49 PM
"Training exercises" reminds me of the K31 seller that claimed the reason for the chewed up buttstocks was instead of alerting everyone with a gunshot the swiss would sneak up on germans and bludgeon them with the butt :D :D .

Boomer1961
08-23-2006, 11:16 PM
..... from Greek or Danish training exercises. ;)

How come dirty thoughts come to mind when I read that.

Is not Danish some kind of oral delight your partner enjoys from you as you eat out and is not Greek that thing you tried with your wife once (Doc did not give the wife a few extra daddy stiches when she had the kids so you wanted to try something different!) and she said never again because it hurt way too much and all you thought about was it smelled funny!:eek:

Sorry me bad! I could not resist! Sorry in advance for anyone who is offended but this was way to easy to pass up!:D

M. Sage
08-24-2006, 5:40 PM
"Training exercises" reminds me of the K31 seller that claimed the reason for the chewed up buttstocks was instead of alerting everyone with a gunshot the swiss would sneak up on germans and bludgeon them with the butt :D :D .

When did the Germans get dumb and go into Switzerland during the war? AFAIK, the only Germans who ended up there were just like the Americans, Brits, etc. who did: pilots and aircrews whose planes were either damaged and were looking for a safe haven, or who wandered into Swiss airspace by mistake.

chickenfried
08-24-2006, 6:48 PM
Don't tell me, it sure wasn't my ad :D