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sacto929
12-29-2010, 3:47 PM
Hello,

This is my first time in the C&R forum and my search has been fruitless thus far. I am starting disassembly and cosmoline removal of an 03A3 that was passed on to my by my father. My problem is that the forward floorplate/guard screw is stuck and the slot is starting to cam out.

I have tried heat with an industrial electric heat gun and have tried letting some of the Goo Gone I'm using for cosmo removal soak, but so far it won't budge.

I'm wondering if there are any good tips or tricks that the experts here might be willing to throw my way. I'd really hate to have to resort to drilling it out.:(

On a related note, I picked up a citrus based product at Wally World called Goo Gone to try on the cosmoline and it's working really well. The bolt is cleaning up nicely after having been so thick with the goo that it almost wouldn't move.

Thanks in advance.

Datamancer
12-29-2010, 3:56 PM
if all else fails, you could try an impact driver. It's basically a screwdriver that you smack with a hammer to turn. One good, sharp smack is usually enough to loosen stuck screws on carburetors and auto body panels, so it should probably work for you too.

Harbor Freight sells a cheap one that could work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html

-~D~-

Flyin Brian
12-29-2010, 5:30 PM
Are you using a hollow ground screwdriver? If not, you should get a set of "gunsmith" screwdriver bits. It makes a huge difference. Here is an article that I have not read but there is a photo half way down the page that shows the difference between a standard tip and a hollow ground:

http://www.gunblast.com/Brownells-Screwdrivers.htm

sacto929
12-29-2010, 6:03 PM
Brian,

Thanks for the article. While my bits are not from a specific gunsmith set, they are hollow ground. I think I'll try to find an impact screw driver.

Thanks.

Datamancer
12-29-2010, 6:24 PM
Brian,

Thanks for the article. While my bits are not from a specific gunsmith set, they are hollow ground. I think I'll try to find an impact screw driver.

Thanks.

Just be sure to keep some downward pressure on the bit (either with some tape or by holding the bit down with your other hand) to prevent the tool from bouncing out of the screw after the strike and scratching the rifle.

Good luck!

-~D~-

Milsurp Collector
12-29-2010, 6:37 PM
Hello,

This is my first time in the C&R forum and my search has been fruitless thus far. I am starting disassembly and cosmoline removal of an 03A3 that was passed on to my by my father. My problem is that the forward floorplate/guard screw is stuck and the slot is starting to cam out.



First of all: STOP!

Do not make any more attempts to remove the screw until you have the proper tools!

I totally agree with the recommendation to get a gunsmith screwdriver set. This is the one I use http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=510765

I do not use any other type of screwdrivers with my guns. Not only do the hollow-ground tips engage the slot fully and perfectly, the combination of the plastic handle and ratchet handle allow you to apply much more torque while simultaneously applying downward pressure. The bits are designed to break rather than damage the slot in the screw.

The other thing you need is Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/ Kroil is a penetrating oil that will dissolve rust or crud that is binding the screw. Apply the Kroil liberally, let it work, then use only a gunsmith screwdriver to remove the screw.

maxx424
12-30-2010, 7:23 AM
Soak it in Kroil for a week.

Milsurp Collector
12-30-2010, 1:44 PM
One more thing: after you get the gunsmith screwdriver set and after you soak it with Kroil, attempt to tighten the screw first. You said the screw slot is already damaged in the loosen/counterclockwise direction, but the sides of the slot that engage in the tighten/clockwise direction should be undamaged. Your goal is to break the screw free and get it to rotate, and you'll be able to apply more force in the tighten direction with the screw slot in its current condition. If you can get the screw to rotate even a hair in the tighten direction it will be free, and then you can unscrew it in the counterclockwise direction. You don't want to tighten the screw much, just enough to break it free.

kendog4570
12-30-2010, 4:34 PM
If you have an old style electric soldering iron, plug it in and position it on the screw head and leave it there for 20 minutes or so. Be careful you dont get the wood too hot, but most likely that wont happen if you are careful with the placement of the iron. Get that screw good and hot and it will most likely come right out. Replacement screws are plentiful.


Friends dont let friends use Kroil.

Milsurp Collector
12-30-2010, 5:48 PM
Friends dont let friends use Kroil.

Funny. :rolleyes:

Kroil can turn this (rusty, magazine floorplate catch completely frozen by rust = no floorplate can be installed = rifle unusable)

http://i44.tinypic.com/50s9qa.jpg

into this (rust removed, remaining original finish preserved, magazine floorplate catch freed and functioning normally)

http://i44.tinypic.com/5upw6x.jpg

Don't just take my word for it, read the reviews:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=137203#productTabReviews
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=18963/pid=7610/sku/Kroil_Pour_Can?review=1
http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/product-reviews/B000F09CF4/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

Paul S
12-30-2010, 9:49 PM
Sure hope the OP comes back to tell us what the final outcome is and what he did.;)

kendog4570
12-30-2010, 9:53 PM
Funny. :rolleyes:

Never said it didn't work. I just don't care for it. Stinks to high heaven and is almost impossible to get completely rid of. Contaminates blast media and parkerizing solution. There are other ways to deal with rusted, stuck, or frozen stuff.
As far as the OP is concerned, plunge into the center of the screw head with a 3/16" or 1/4" end mill and pop the head off of the screw. Get the action out of the stock and grab the stud with some vise grips and turn it out, after heating it up with a propane torch. Order a new screw and you are done. The thread pitch is 1/4-25 tpi by the way. Brownells or Midway have taps for this thread, if you need to clean up the hole. You are not likely to find it at any of the tool suppliers, even the big ones. If it is a National Ordnance aftermarket receiver, the thread pitch is 1/4-28 tpi. You can find that tap at any hardware store.

GuyW
12-30-2010, 10:34 PM
If not, you should get a set of "gunsmith" screwdriver bits. It makes a huge difference.

Well, not so much after the screw slot is all Obama'd to hell and gone...
.

sacto929
12-31-2010, 8:38 AM
Well, at this point it is still soaking in PB Blaster. I couldn't find any Kroil locally.

I do have an electric soldering iron, so I'll try that, too. For now; however, it is just soaking while I do vehicle maintenance.

I was able to find a gunsmith screwdriver set at Wild Sports and the bits of the size I need look nearly identical to the ones I'd been using.

I will let you know what happens when I get back to it. I'm really hoping that I don't have to drill it, but I may get a replacement screw for the reassembly anyway.

Thanks.

Pvt.Joker
12-31-2010, 8:55 AM
PB Blaster is OK; but order the Kroil online if you must. It does what the others advertise to do... ;)

Heat; apply Kroil, let soak overnight, repeat for a few days, and if it's EVER coming out again, that will do it.

foesgth
12-31-2010, 8:59 AM
If you can find a local drill and tap removal service they can get it out for you without damaging any other parts. They dissolve the screw electrically.

sacto929
01-08-2011, 1:32 PM
Well, the screw soaked in PB Blaster for better than a week. The screw continued to cam worse as I tried to get, so I called a buddy and headed to his house to drill it. Before we got the drill press ready, we attempted one more time to get it with the impact screw driver. We filed a bit to fit in deeper and after two whacks, it came loose!

Thank you all for your advice on the topic. I hope to post some pics once I'm done cleaning off the cosmo and refinishing the stock.

Thanks again.

Datamancer
01-08-2011, 5:18 PM
Well, the screw soaked in PB Blaster for better than a week. The screw continued to cam worse as I tried to get, so I called a buddy and headed to his house to drill it. Before we got the drill press ready, we attempted one more time to get it with the impact screw driver. We filed a bit to fit in deeper and after two whacks, it came loose!

Thank you all for your advice on the topic. I hope to post some pics once I'm done cleaning off the cosmo and refinishing the stock.

Thanks again.

No problem. Glad it worked out for you. Impact drivers are wonderful little devices, just don't use them on anything that's TOO rusted, or else you can spin the head right off the screw, but most of the time it's pretty safe.

-~D~-

cmichini
01-09-2011, 8:44 AM
Well, at this point it is still soaking in PB Blaster. I couldn't find any Kroil locally.

I do have an electric soldering iron, so I'll try that, too. For now; however, it is just soaking while I do vehicle maintenance.

I was able to find a gunsmith screwdriver set at Wild Sports and the bits of the size I need look nearly identical to the ones I'd been using.

I will let you know what happens when I get back to it. I'm really hoping that I don't have to drill it, but I may get a replacement screw for the reassembly anyway.

Thanks.

If the slot is buggered, I suggest getting a replacement. I'd hate to keep seeing that buggered screw head and it will be easier to deal with if you ever have to take things apart again.

Glad to hear it worked out. I bet when you were talking about the drill press the screw got scared and decided it'd messed with you long enough.

WDE91
01-09-2011, 8:48 AM
once you get it out, purchase a replacement

buggered screw look bad and they are not fun to deal with

sacto929
01-09-2011, 2:45 PM
The replacement screw set from Brownell's was on hand before we headed towards the drill press....

sacto929
02-02-2011, 8:08 PM
Well, it's taken a while, but the cosmoline is 99% gone with just a few spots left to finish. Man, was there a lot of cosmo....:chris:

To hijack my own thread, what should I use to protect the newly degreased metal? Will CLP or Hoppe's oil work, or is there something better?

Thanks.

Alex$
02-03-2011, 7:07 AM
Of the two options you listed, CLP for short term. Longer term I would get some gun grease that sticks and will provide protection long term. I use Hoppe's gun grease because it is readily available to me.

Collector will probably have a more elegant solution.

kendog4570
02-03-2011, 7:58 AM
Of the two options you listed, CLP for short term. Longer term I would get some gun grease that sticks and will provide protection long term. I use Hoppe's gun grease because it is readily available to me.

Collector will probably have a more elegant solution.

The absolute best for medium and long term storage is LPS-3.
Oldie, but a goodie.

sacto929
02-03-2011, 8:19 AM
I'm hoping to get it out once a month or once every two months. I'm really hoping to have time to get into trying the military match competitions. Would 1-2 months between uses qualify as short or medium term storage? Would these recommendations also hold well for a WWII 1911A1? Both the 03A3 and the 1911A1 are 1943 vintage....

kendog4570
02-03-2011, 8:38 AM
Depends what your conditions are like where you are keeping them. My area is a little cool and sometimes slightly damp, so I use the LPS-3 inside and out if I am not planning on using the gun for a while. It has kind of cosmoline like properties, but comes off way easier. No problems in over 20 years.

If it is a rifle that I am shooting frequently, a wipedown with Hoppes gun oil or Triflow is good.

Milsurp Collector
02-03-2011, 8:50 AM
To hijack my own thread, what should I use to protect the newly degreased metal? Will CLP or Hoppe's oil work, or is there something better?

Thanks.

I use Eezox on all of my guns http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html
http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/pl-eezox.html#eezox

http://www.johnfjensen.com/acatalog/images/Eezox-4oz.jpg

In three separate independent rust prevention tests Eezox was top-rated

Bottom Line--Eezox and Corrosion-X Are Superior

Use Eezox or Corrosion-X to coat your firearms. Eezox has the advantage that it goes on wet, but protects dry.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Clearly, Eezox was the winner of my tests, followed closely by CLP.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html


After one week, only the EEzOx, Ballistol and Lehighs were rust-free.

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html

Like CLP, Eezox can also be used as a cleaner and lubricant. Unlike CLP (which I also use for some purposes) it dries instead of remaining oily.

sacto929
02-03-2011, 3:12 PM
Milsurp--

Thank you for the recommendation. I have some on order.

Thanks!