PDA

View Full Version : Rust issues.....


Dr. Pepper
12-21-2010, 10:58 PM
Alright, I am an idiot and I'll come out and say it. I cleaned my Garand, and left WD-40 in the barrel. I didn't flush it out properly and I was greeted by a fine layer of rust in the forward section of my barrel. I applied a healthy layer of oil to prevent spreading, but I would like to know what is the best method of removal.
I tried to use a nylon brush and I found that to be unsuccessful, but I haven't tried brass. I also considered using CLR; however,I am reluctant to use because it can take off blueing and parkerization. If anyone has any suggestions, I would be happy to here them.

thanks,

Lee

nagorb
12-21-2010, 11:04 PM
Alright, I am an idiot and I'll come out and say it. I cleaned my Garand, and left WD-40 in the barrel. I didn't flush it out properly and I was greeted by a fine layer of rust in the forward section of my barrel. I applied a healthy layer of oil to prevent spreading, but I would like to know what is the best method of removal.
I tried to use a nylon brush and I found that to be unsuccessful, but I haven't tried brass. I also considered using CLR; however,I am reluctant to use because it can take off blueing and parkerization. If anyone has any suggestions, I would be happy to here them.

thanks,

Lee

I've had the same problem in my Mosin, all I did was soak it with CLP or rem oil for a few hours/days, then clean it as usual. Whatever was left got blasted out the next range session.

Dr. Pepper
12-21-2010, 11:32 PM
CLP huh? I will have to try that; maybe combined with the brass brush I can get some results.

Alex$
12-22-2010, 12:02 AM
I would go with Kroil liberally applies to barrel and let it sit. Then patch it clean, bronze brush with cleaning solvent of choice followed by more Kroil as needed.

(substitute preferred quality penetrating oil of choice instead of Kroil)

Dr. Pepper
12-22-2010, 12:11 AM
My only question: does kroil remove parkerization?

nagorb
12-22-2010, 1:42 AM
I would go with Kroil liberally applies to barrel and let it sit. Then patch it clean, bronze brush with cleaning solvent of choice followed by more Kroil as needed.

(substitute preferred quality penetrating oil of choice instead of Kroil)

I was actually just going to say this.

nagorb
12-22-2010, 1:43 AM
CLP huh? I will have to try that; maybe combined with the brass brush I can get some results.

As the previous poster any oil you like will work, I've used both rem oil and CLP.

stevie
12-22-2010, 4:47 AM
Kroil will not remove finish

NRAhighpowershooter
12-22-2010, 9:22 AM
Kroil will not remove finish

I use only Kroil for bore cleaning

Dr. Pepper
12-22-2010, 10:32 AM
So kroil is specially formulated to break down rust, or is it just a nice oil to use for cleaning?

NRAhighpowershooter
12-22-2010, 10:47 AM
So kroil is specially formulated to break down rust, or is it just a nice oil to use for cleaning?

Kroil is a great penetrating oil that is great for bore cleaning and to use when you use a wire brush on rust....

Alex$
12-22-2010, 11:05 AM
So kroil is specially formulated to break down rust, or is it just a nice oil to use for cleaning?

Kroil is a low viscosity penetrating oil. Because it is so thin it gets within tiny spaces under rust and breaks the rust off the steel from underneath. It also has mineral spirits and naptha in it to aid in cleaning. It is not an oil in the traditional sense, it is a very short lived product that does not provide long term protection.

So it is a cleaning compound and pentrating oil. Think of what most people use WD-40 for, Kroil is better at doing it.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

I buy it from MidwayUSA

rojocorsa
12-22-2010, 11:39 AM
Kroil, no doubt about it.

Flintlock Tom
12-22-2010, 11:43 AM
I thought WD-40 was supposed to prevent rust!?

What happened?

rojocorsa
12-22-2010, 11:50 AM
It says there he left it in too long thus actually promoting rust. Go figure.

beetle
12-22-2010, 11:50 AM
I thought WD-40 was supposed to prevent rust!?

What happened?

same question I was about to ask. Why would WD-40 cause rust?

Orlando
12-22-2010, 1:18 PM
What does WD-40 stand for? Water Displacement
Ever use it and notice the next day whatever you sprayed it on is dry?
WD-40 offers little to no protection from rust.

gunboat
12-22-2010, 9:55 PM
How about a cleaning and about 10 rounds down range - be sure to clean with water after using corrosive primed ammo.

Dr. Pepper
12-22-2010, 10:17 PM
I shot 30 rounds through it on Saturday; it did nothing for the rust problems.

Anchors
12-22-2010, 10:53 PM
It says there he left it in too long thus actually promoting rust. Go figure.

I like your avatar haha.

Alex$
12-22-2010, 11:15 PM
I shot 30 rounds through it on Saturday; it did nothing for the rust problems.

I am a recent convert to "Ed's Red", I think this is much better for cleaning bores than any other product I have used thus far.

Not sure of the condition of your barrel, but if it has fouling then you may want to try Ed's Red. I have used it on 5 recent buys and it has cleaned it much faster and easier than anything I have tried to date.

If your bore is dark and you have rust in addition to it you may want to try a series of Ed's Red, a copper solvent and then Kroil. Doing that routine I have cleaned up some bores that looked darn close to useless and they shine and shoot well today.

If you are in the North Valley I will give you enough Ed's Red to try cleaning up the barrel, mine doesn't have the acetone in it as I don't do much shotgun cleaning. (and my new glasses cannot be around acetone)

Dr. Pepper
12-23-2010, 10:34 PM
Unfortunately, I am in Monterey County, but I will try to get my hands on some kroil or Ed's red.

rojocorsa
12-23-2010, 10:41 PM
You make Ed's Red, you don't buy it.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/edred/index.asp

rojocorsa
12-23-2010, 10:44 PM
I like your avatar haha.

Thanks.

Interloper
12-24-2010, 12:50 PM
Run enough patches to get the bore dry, then bronze brush the heck out of it. You need the bore dry because you don't want to lube the brush you want maximum friction. :cool2:

WD-40 is the most overhyped product on the market. It's just butane propelled kerosene. A relative sent me an email detailing how WD is fish oil, can be taken internally, and is a miracle cure all for all human ailments. I sent him a copy of the MSDS. Hope he hasn't swallowed too much.

daveyshooter
12-24-2010, 4:27 PM
CLP does what is claims. No wonder the Military uses it.

foesgth
12-24-2010, 7:30 PM
Marvel Mystery oil or brake fluid will remove rust. Both very easy to get. i mix Marvel with Slick 50 for lubing all my milsurps.

Dr. Pepper
12-26-2010, 4:49 PM
I have ordered a bronze brush in .270, and I bought some break free CLP. I will try my luck with that first, and if that doesn't do the job, I will use some break cleaner, or kroil.

I thank everyone for your input, it is great to know how many options are on the table. I am sure one of them will work. This thread has been very helpful.

Thanks again,

Lee

Orlando
12-26-2010, 4:56 PM
If you fired rds through the barrel and rust is still there you must have pitting. You may get the rust cleaned out of the pitts but the pitting is forever

M1A Rifleman
12-26-2010, 8:43 PM
I thought WD-40 was supposed to prevent rust!?

What happened?

No. WD40 was not designed as a oil. It is a product that displaces water, and it sucks as a preservative for guns - and lube for motorcycle chains. Get yourself true gun oil - like CLP.

Dr. Pepper
12-27-2010, 5:49 PM
You know the stupid thing was that I had plenty of gun oil, but I wanted to give WD-40 a try. "I know, it was stupid." :( It's not that shooting it did nothing; it removed the rust from the lands, just not the groves. I am sure it is not pitted, because the only way I can see it is with a flashlight pointed down the muzzle. Then I see steaks of that unmistakable orange. When I put the light down the breach I can't even tell it's there.
I will update everyone as soon as I can get home to clean it, but I think that I will be able to remove it with the bronze brush and the CLP. When I tried to remove it before, I did not have a dry bore and I was using a nylon brush. Basically, I was doing it wrong. I did not recognize these errors at the time, so it scarred me when I wasn't able to remove the rust. I remember when my 98 barrel rusted from improper cleaning after shooting corrosive ammunition, I was able to remove the rust. Though, now that I think about it, I used a brass brush and the bore was bone dry. It all kinda makes sense when I put it together.

Orlando
12-27-2010, 5:54 PM
Probably not rust but copper

Alex$
12-27-2010, 7:19 PM
see PM

otteray
12-30-2010, 6:29 AM
I used brake cleaner until I found out how harmful it can be to humans and pets.
Read the MSDS.
Use it with caution.

rojocorsa
12-30-2010, 10:38 AM
MSDS?


As far as dangerous chemicals, this is the reason why I want to try M-Pro7, which is supposed to be non-toxic.

Alex$
12-30-2010, 11:19 AM
MSDS?


As far as dangerous chemicals, this is the reason why I want to try M-Pro7, which is supposed to be non-toxic.

http://tinyurl.com/yaplrsn

See Wikipedia entry

Mickey D
12-30-2010, 1:41 PM
WD-40 was designed to be a water dispersant, not for surface protection. It will turn to a varnish like substance when left in guns or similar places.

Kroil is great for removing rust and breaking free rusted parts. It also wasn't designed for surface protection.

Use a good gun oil.

Fate
12-30-2010, 1:43 PM
Probably not rust but copper

I was wondering this too. Are you sure it's rust and not just copper fouling?

rojocorsa
12-30-2010, 3:18 PM
I saw his gun, [and though it was honestly hard to tell since getting light inside the bore isn't the easiest thing], it looked like there were distinctive patterns that aren't the straight lines of copper fouling.

I guess it wouldn't hurt for Dr. Pepper to double-check again, but I think he would already be sure of it--by this point in time. The WD-40 incident didn't exactly happen last night.

Bigtwin
12-30-2010, 7:09 PM
Ever use it and notice the next day whatever you sprayed it on is dry?
.

No I have'nt! I use WD40 on engine blocks that I have torn down, spray Wd40 on liberally and the block still has no rust several weeks later!

Then again I don't use automotive products on my firearms or vise versa!

Interloper
12-30-2010, 8:21 PM
No I have'nt! I use WD40 on engine blocks that I have torn down, spray Wd40 on liberally and the block still has no rust several weeks later!

Then again I don't use automotive products on my firearms or vise versa!

Now ya done it!
My favorite oil for...just about anything, guns included, is half ATF & half 15w-40. :chris:

Dr. Pepper
01-23-2011, 1:16 AM
:D I think that I might not have a pitted barrel! To me the evidence seems to point to the contrary. I got the materials to clean my bore a couple of weeks ago, and then proceeded clean it. I let it sit in CLP for about 4 hours, then I dried out the barrel with by bore snake and some patches, then I scrubbed the hell out of it. I was shocked to find that no rust particulate came out, not a spec, which is what i gave experienced in the past with my Mosin and Mauser. I put the light down the muzzle and peered inside; I still saw the streaks, but they appeared more shiny than before. With some time the color dulled to that of a circulated penny. I looked at the barrel with the light at the breach, and without the color, I could not tell anything was there, no pitting or curious textures. Combined that with no growth, and a green color on the used patches when I attempted to clean it with hoppes out of desperation, and I think these streaks may just be copper deposits. I had my Friend Rojocorsa take a look for a second opinion, and he came to the same conclusion.

Reductio
01-23-2011, 1:43 AM
The streaks are almost certainly copper deposits. For future use, get some of THIS (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=112089), run a wet patch down the bore, let it sit for 20-30 minutes, dry, then another soak. My Garand is rather similar in that it really shows that copper.

Dr. Pepper
01-23-2011, 12:17 PM
The streaks are almost certainly copper deposits. For future use, get some of THIS (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=112089), run a wet patch down the bore, let it sit for 20-30 minutes, dry, then another soak. My Garand is rather similar in that it really shows that copper.

Sounds good; I'll have to get some of that after I buy my Greek surplus. :D

rojocorsa
01-23-2011, 7:19 PM
It's copper alright.