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View Full Version : Installing Free Float Handguard


NeoGeo630
10-28-2010, 6:39 AM
What's the easiest way to install a free float handguard without having to remove the A2 front sight? Is it even possible to do so?

hylander
10-28-2010, 6:40 AM
Is it even possible to do so?

Not if the FF Tube is one peice

tomd1584
10-28-2010, 10:54 AM
What's the easiest way to install a free float handguard without having to remove the A2 front sight? Is it even possible to do so?

only if its a 2 piece like the Daniel Defense Omega.

Josh3239
10-28-2010, 1:24 PM
MI also makes a two piece but you'd have to cut off the delta ring and sit it on the barrel nut intself.

daveyshooter
10-28-2010, 1:56 PM
I have a DCM free float HG and there is no way it can be installed without the front sight/gas block removed.
In this case, the barrel nut has to be removed and replaced with the one that comes with the FFHG.
You can not loosen it without removing the gas tube first.

If you are affraid of it not lining up when you put it back, don't worry.
I've done it many times and have not seen on inch of MOA difference.
Re-zeroing your rifle is not hard, in the remote event you have to.

Trendkill
10-28-2010, 1:58 PM
You can cut down you front sight post and install a rail just long enough to cover it right..???

NeoGeo630
11-01-2010, 11:38 AM
well, I'd like to keep the front sight intact. That way I don't need to spend money getting another front sight. Also the free float handguard I will be using is a mid-length one so it will not cover the front sight block even if I do cut it down. I tried driving the pins out last night but was unsuccessful in doing so. The pins would not budge. I'm pretty sure I am doing it right, the same way I have seen on numerous youtube videos tho I do not have a vice block or a sight block to use. That's the only difference.

f4ipowered
11-01-2010, 11:53 AM
For what its worth, getting the pins out of mine was the hardest part of the entire operation. In my case I just needed to hit them harder, and finally they came out.

Vanilla Gorilla
11-01-2010, 12:17 PM
well, I'd like to keep the front sight intact. That way I don't need to spend money getting another front sight. Also the free float handguard I will be using is a mid-length one so it will not cover the front sight block even if I do cut it down. I tried driving the pins out last night but was unsuccessful in doing so. The pins would not budge. I'm pretty sure I am doing it right, the same way I have seen on numerous youtube videos tho I do not have a vice block or a sight block to use. That's the only difference.

are they tapered pins or roll pins? if they are tapered pins make sure you are hitting them on the right side (the small side). if they are roll pins you might want to get a roll pin punch it makes it easier.

Don29palms
11-01-2010, 1:37 PM
What free float hand guard did you get or what one are you looking to buy?

Untamed1972
11-01-2010, 1:45 PM
Troy makes a nice 2pc free float handguard as well. very rock solid when installed. It does require cutting off the delta ring though.

NeoGeo630
11-01-2010, 9:57 PM
The pins on the A2 sight are taper pins and I was tapping them from the taper end.

I got two handguards, both YHM. One is the rifle length lightweight free float and the other is the mid length diamond series free float. I couldn't decide which length I wanted to run on my rifle so I decided to get them both. I'm assuming the mid length will allow me to keep my A2 front sight/gas block and the rifle length will require me to remove it altogether. I did also get a YHM low profile gas block just in case I go with the rifle length.

I also got the end cap to go on the end of the handguard. Does any know if I will have a problem putting that on if I decide to go with the mid length handguard?

slomofo
11-01-2010, 10:04 PM
You're going to have to remove that A2 sight post with YHM free float rails either way you look at it. What gas system is on your rifle, carbine or mid?

NeoGeo630
11-01-2010, 10:17 PM
My rifle is a 16" Spike's Tactical LE Mid.

Jwood562
11-02-2010, 4:34 AM
You need to really support the upper and fsb and really smack the pins with the proper punch and hammer. They will come out u just need to put a little elbow grease in it

Don29palms
11-02-2010, 5:50 AM
You should be able to keep your sight block with the mid length hand guard. You'll have to put the end cap on before you put the sight back on. Do you have all the proper tools for removing and installing the new barrel nut and lock ring?

NeoGeo630
11-02-2010, 9:34 AM
I was smacking it pretty good. I had my brother hold the upper and fsb while I was doing so. I was off center a couple times and the pin punch slipped and scratched the fsb a little. Good thing the one I have is pretty heavy duty and has a durable coating on it. The scratch is quite small so I can touch it up and it should look like new. The coating to me almost seems like a powder coating.

I have one of those AR combo wrenches. I got it from Primary Arms.

http://primaryarms.com/product.sc?productId=609&categoryId=84

That should be what I need for the barrel nut and lock ring correct? If not, what specific tool would I need?

Don29palms
11-02-2010, 9:54 AM
You'll also need an action block of some sort and a torque wrench. Midway USA sells the Model 1 action block or the DPMS Panther Claw action block. You'll also need a spanner wrench for the lock ring. YHM sells a wrench for the lock ring too. And some anti-sieze.

NeoGeo630
11-02-2010, 1:50 PM
I do know about the action block. Unfortunately the reason I did not get one is because I do not have room for a workbench and a vice in my garage. Also a Brownell's front site block would be lovely as well but I do not have one of those either.

Bug Splat
11-02-2010, 2:38 PM
I do know about the action block. Unfortunately the reason I did not get one is because I do not have room for a workbench and a vice in my garage. Also a Brownell's front site block would be lovely as well but I do not have one of those either.

To be completely honest you are not prepared for this. Not trying to be rude at all but there are a number of tools you need to do it correctly. I am the Bubba of garage gunsmiths but even I gave up and bought the correct tools. I learned this the hard way and spent more on replacement parts then what the tooling would have cost AND I had to buy the tooling anyway. I'm sure if you ask around and offer a case of beer some calguns member will give you a hand. Everyone is very helpful here and willing to help especially if it involves an AR build.:)

Don29palms
11-02-2010, 2:46 PM
To be completely honest you are not prepared for this. Not trying to be rude at all but there are a number of tools you need to do it correctly. I am the Bubba of garage gunsmiths but even I gave up and bought the correct tools. I learned this the hard way and spent more on replacement parts then what the tooling would have cost AND I had to buy the tooling anyway. I'm sure if you ask around and offer a case of beer some calguns member will give you a hand. Everyone is very helpful here and willing to help especially if it involves an AR build.:)

Or take it to a gunsmith. With the proper tools it's not hard and shouldn't take long so it shouldn't cost too much.

IsaacGlass
11-02-2010, 7:06 PM
I do know about the action block. Unfortunately the reason I did not get one is because I do not have room for a workbench and a vice in my garage. Also a Brownell's front site block would be lovely as well but I do not have one of those either.

Take it to a gunsmith. Riflegear!

NeoGeo630
11-03-2010, 9:17 AM
I will agree that tool and experience wise I am totally not prepared for this. I know what tools I need but do not have the space to implement the proper setup. As far as experience, I am fairly mechanically capable and I am not afraid to try things on my own and learn.

I have looked into getting a gunsmith to do this. I contacted Randall at ar15barrels and am hoping he will be able to do the work for me. I would take it to Riflegear or Ammo Bros but both are quite far from me since I live in the SGV.

Hopefully in the future I can get the setup I need at home to do things right and start getting more experience by reading and doing as I get deeper into this hobby.

Thanks for all the great input guys!

Don29palms
11-03-2010, 9:39 AM
If you are somewhat mechanically inclined I'm sure you could do the job if you had the tools. The tools make all the difference. You know the old saying
"The right tool for the right job!"