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Moress
09-29-2010, 6:15 PM
Hello,

Just got back from the range. This happened to me once before, but it happened again today. I shot about 20 rounds through the gun and on the third clip, about the 5th round, it fired but all this smoke came out of the gun from the chamber and piston area. The next round fired okay, but the following two didn't, then one fired okay and the last ftf.

I took bcg apart and where the pin is suppose to come out it looked like there was something stickin out of it, like a disk on its side, it seemed to be a piece of primer or something. I pushed it back in and it seemed to fire a few more times okay, but then the range was closing so I had to pack up.

I'm thinking either the gun is dirty because its been 150ish rounds since I last cleaned it, or the ammo was bad, or maybe even something is wrong with the firing pin. What do you guys think?

dmax11
09-29-2010, 7:20 PM
Yugo's just like almost all unmodified SKS's have a free floating firing pin, it is critical that you clean you bolt thoroughly if you have never done so before (remove the firing pin from the bolt and use pipe cleaners down the channel) and after every outing you should at the very least clean it with some hoppes or other solvent to get the crud from ammo out of there. i like to finish cleaning mine by letting it soak in mineral spirits for a day to get all oil out of the bolt unless i do not plan on shooting it any time soon and in that case you should oil it to protect the metal.

the reasoning behind keeping SKS bolts bone dry is because as you should know oil of any sort attracts crud and makes it stick to surfaces. crud in the firing pin channel = problems. i personally wasn't so sure of this practice so the first time i took my Yugo out i had lightly oiled the bolt with rem oil. i only shot 40 rounds through it of brown bear. when i got home i cleaned it out and got tons of red particles from the sealant from the primer on the ammo out of it. now i take it out bone dry and when i go to clean it almost nothing comes out and it freely ratttles even if i shot 70 rounds through it.

its really one of the most important parts on an SKS to keep clean as well because if something was to jam the firing pin forward your SKS will slam fire and could go full auto and unload your mag without even pulling the trigger if its really stuck good.

here is a good video to watch made by Murray's they make a spring loaded firing pin for SKS's that will prevent/eliminate slam fire potential on any SKS

xj3QtnUWCwQ

as for it FTF however, i've only heard of people having FTF's with hard primer ammo like wolf or surplus and also have a spring loaded pin installed in combination with worn or lighter hammer springs installed and even then its not very common, what kind of condition is your rifle in and most importantly the trigger group and the bolt. also is the face of your bolt completely flat? Murray's also talks about volcano'd bolt faces that cause issues with primers getting punctured and that sounds kind of like what may have happens to you there, but if it was just one round perhaps you just had a bad round.


i've never experienced any of the above with my Yugo but it was unissued and i've only put about 110 rounds through it so far, no jams no FTF's, last time i was out shooting wolf however i did get some smoke coming out of my receiver but it was due to shooting too many rounds too fast and the rifle was getting real hot, i'm pretty sure most of the smoke was oil vapor rather than powder smoke, it didn't smell like powder at all

Moress
09-29-2010, 7:46 PM
The rifle is in pretty good condition. All the serial numbers match if that counts for anything. The firing pin is flat. I was shooting wolf ammo.

Mac
09-29-2010, 8:15 PM
Take your bolt apart and clean it. leave the firing pin and channel DRY.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9B7X4IItVoI

if it is a 59/66 then this will help cycle it. (your gas issue)
http://www.cncwarrior.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=1

J.S.Riesch
09-29-2010, 8:21 PM
Excellent post by dmax11. Happened to me once, all ten flew out. I was s-s-s-surprised! Keep the bolt clean and dry. Worn out Yugo’s seems to be more prone to it. Replace firing pin with Murray’s spring loaded unit. As far as smoke coming out, sometimes worn out bolt face let firing pin go further and puncture primers. Again, try spring-loaded firing pin. Keep in mind that SKS trigger group somewhat finicky, especially main spring and worn out hummer. :43:

Moress
09-29-2010, 10:46 PM
I completly took the gun apart and cleaned it from muzzle to butt stock. The bolt assembly didn't look too dirty, but I cleaned it anyway. I think I was over doing it with lube along the BCG and along the bolt face and some might have got mixed in with residue from the ammo and caused problems.

I still don't know what would cause the smoke to rise out of the gun like that, then immediately 'cause FTF's.

Hopefully I can go back to the range soonish and put a bunch of rounds down range to see if that was really the problem.

dmax11
09-29-2010, 10:52 PM
good, just soak your bolt in something that dissolves oils. mineral spirits are probably the best thing for you money put it back in afterwords and take it back out and test it.

if you did not take the firing pin out you might want to keep a low amount of rounds in the mag the next time just to be safe in the event your pin is sticking but if it freely rattles back and forth in the bolt you should be good to go as long as you don't use soft primer ammo (american made/boxer primed ammo)

if you still encounter FTF's after this you probably need to look into either the ammo your shooting if its the same as before, the firing pin protrusion, the face of the bolt to make sure its flat and not bulging out around the pin "volcano" is what its called and lastly the hammer spring.

good luck and be safe.

dmax11
09-29-2010, 10:54 PM
here is a page on popped primers

http://www.murraysguns.com/poppedprimers.htm

Mac
09-29-2010, 10:59 PM
Yeah do not over lube it. The rails and bolt carrier with a light coat. bearing surfaces.
make sure your firing pin rattles when you shake the bolt when it is all back together.. Dry chamber too - right. I would replace the gas valve for $10 just so you can cut that potential problem out.

SJgunguy24
09-29-2010, 11:00 PM
I completly took the gun apart and cleaned it from muzzle to butt stock. The bolt assembly didn't look too dirty, but I cleaned it anyway. I think I was over doing it with lube along the BCG and along the bolt face and some might have got mixed in with residue from the ammo and caused problems.

I still don't know what would cause the smoke to rise out of the gun like that, then immediately 'cause FTF's.

Hopefully I can go back to the range soonish and put a bunch of rounds down range to see if that was really the problem.

Did you strip the bolt? If not go back and do that. Just about every commie gun can have that issue of crap getting into the firing pin channel.
That happened to me and my gun went FA for 7 rounds.

Moress
09-29-2010, 11:09 PM
The bolt face looks fine to my naked eye. No sign of the "Valcano Effect." :-)

Edit: Yeah I completly took the bolt assembly apart. Cleaned and dried it. I tried not to apply much lube on the bolt face to prevent any from getting into the firing pin channel.

dmax11
09-29-2010, 11:11 PM
Did you strip the bolt? If not go back and do that. Just about every commie gun can have that issue of crap getting into the firing pin channel.
That happened to me and my gun went FA for 7 rounds.

yep, they need to be thoroughly cleaned from time to time esp the SKS because of its floating pin design.

here is a video showing how to dismantle the bolt, the retaining pin can be anywhere from easy to push out to a real PITA but its a very necessary thing to do esp if your SKS has been used a decent amount or is having firing problems of any sort like the OP is having.

9B7X4IItVoI

SJgunguy24
09-29-2010, 11:13 PM
The bolt face looks fine to my naked eye. No sign of the "Valcano Effect." :-)

Did you strip the bolt? The face will tell you nothing.

You need to get in there and clean it out. Sometimes there is a burr that could lock that FP in the forward position, then you have an unregistred MG.
Hey but what do I know? Not like I've ever built a gun or worked on any guns myself.

dmax11
09-29-2010, 11:13 PM
The bolt face looks fine to my naked eye. No sign of the "Valcano Effect." :-)

Edit: Yeah I completly took the bolt assembly apart. Cleaned and dried it. I tried not to apply much lube on the bolt face to prevent any from getting into the firing pin channel.

do not put any lube on the bolt period. its not necessary and will only cause you problems

Moress
09-29-2010, 11:20 PM
I'll try to remember in the future. I usually apply a very thin layer of Hoppe's lube to prevent any rusting because with school starting up sometimes it's a while before I can get to the range, then other times I find my self with free time out of the blue, so I just play it safe and plan for long term storage after I clean my guns.

Mac
09-29-2010, 11:32 PM
This thread reminds me of the old John Wayne movie "Three Godfathers"
No that's not how you feed the kid! :D

he's got it.

dmax11
09-29-2010, 11:33 PM
I'll try to remember in the future. I usually apply a very thin layer of Hoppe's lube to prevent any rusting because with school starting up sometimes it's a while before I can get to the range, then other times I find my self with free time out of the blue, so I just play it safe and plan for long term storage after I clean my guns.

thats fine, if you know its going to sit for awhile by all means lube it up to protect the metal, what you need to do is degrease the bolt before you take it out to help keep stuff from finding its way into the the firing pin channel, when there is oil in there even a little bit it finds its way in there much faster than if its bone dry

johnthomas
09-30-2010, 12:30 AM
here is a page on popped primers

http://www.murraysguns.com/poppedprimers.htm

I had the same problem a few months ago and this link was posted. It is exactly what was wrong with mine. I did as the link suggested and have not had a problem since. jt

Moress
10-01-2010, 7:18 PM
Well, with the gun totally clean, I in spected it and found no faults with it. I was talkin to my friend and he told me that he's had bad experiences with wolf ammo. He said its not uncommon for the primer to blow and send pieces of it into the firing pin channel. That would explain the smoke coming out of the gun. I'm starting to think its the ammo and not the gun. Has anyone else experienced this with wolf ammo? I shot 150 rounds worth of silver bear and didn't have any such problems, but about 1 in every 150 rounds of wolf has caused the problem mentioned in the op.

dmax11
10-01-2010, 7:49 PM
yeah i have but i think it was heat + oil, i never noticed any pierced primers when i cleaned up my cases but then again i was not looking at them for it.

i shot about 70 rounds of wolf through my yugo the last time i took it out the smoke out of the receiver started around round 35 or so the first firing peroid and the rifle was getting really hot, after i put it away for a bit to cool off and went back to shoot it again i shot 30 rounds through it slower this time and did not experience any smoke coming out of the receiver this is my reasoning for thinking it was evaporating oil rather than the ammo. plus i never got any thing out of my bolt, the face was a bit dirty but nothing out of the norm.

johnthomas
10-01-2010, 11:30 PM
Well, with the gun totally clean, I in spected it and found no faults with it. I was talkin to my friend and he told me that he's had bad experiences with wolf ammo. He said its not uncommon for the primer to blow and send pieces of it into the firing pin channel. That would explain the smoke coming out of the gun. I'm starting to think its the ammo and not the gun. Has anyone else experienced this with wolf ammo? I shot 150 rounds worth of silver bear and didn't have any such problems, but about 1 in every 150 rounds of wolf has caused the problem mentioned in the op.

I would bet it is the bolt. Did you check the link above and inspect your bolt face? I shoot anything I can buy.
When This happened to mine, I followed the instructions as I posted earlier in the thread and it took care of the problem. The smoke is as someone stated, is from the gun being hot and cooking the oil. I just got my yugo 1260 rounds delivered from jgsales for 239.00

Moress
10-02-2010, 12:50 AM
I don't think the smoke is from oil. I don't lube/oil the piston tube. Besides, it smokes and then it starts to jam. This has happened to me twice. I did indeed inspect the bolt face and there's no signs of defects.

dmax11
10-02-2010, 1:19 AM
smokes and then starts to jam? after how many rounds in what kind of time frame?

was your SKS full of cosmoline when you got it? did you clean it out thoroughly inside and out and if so what did you use to clean it out?

Moress
10-02-2010, 1:44 AM
It depends. The first time it happened it was after 50 rounds I think in about an hour? This last time it was around 25 in about 20 minutes.

It has no cosmo anywhere on it, I've cleaned it out very thourghly when I first got it with the exception of the bolt assembly, but I cleaned that out pretty well a few days ago.

dmax11
10-02-2010, 2:00 AM
how did you clean it out? what did you use as a solvent on the metal parts?

jamming problems after the rifle gets real hot sounds like cosmoline melting inside the action and sticking things up, the suff is nasty and unless you soaked all metal parts in a good solvent like mineral spirits, diesel fuel, kerosene, gasoline etc. i can guarantee you that you probably still have some cosmo in there.

one area that took at lot of cleaning on my yugo was around the chamber inside the receiver where the threads for the barrel are, lots of cosmo hidden in there. you got to q-tip+ mineral spirits it out or similar.

also using mild solvents like breakfree CLP etc. does not cut it and will only remove some cosmoline, weak solvents like this will even leave a thin coat of cosmo on bare metal parts that are easily cleaned.

i've shot 40 rounds through my yugo in less than 30 min and i've never once had a jam ever so far that is with wolf FMJ and Brown bear SP ammo, both steel cased cheap commie ammo.

Moress
10-02-2010, 2:19 AM
Typically I clean it out with Hoppee's 9, but I've check everywhere and I don't find any cosmo. Even when the gun gets hot I don't see any cosmo leaking out anywhere. I don't think it could be cosmo either, that doesn't explain the smoke rising from the gun. Right after that smoke starts coming out is when the problems occur, thats what lead me to believe maybe I've just been unlucky with my ammo?

Like I said I didnt have this problem with 150 rounds of Silver Bear. If it was the cosmo, then there shouldn't be any smoke right? It would simply fail to fire/feed/eject?

Edit: The very first time I shot was with silver bear, went through 100 rounds no problems. Then I went again with silver bear again, 50 rounds. No problem. The gun only started smoking twice, both with Wolf ammo. This isn't a regular thing. I've shot about 100 rounds through it straight with wolf one sitting and everything was fine. The next outing was when the first problem occured and the smoke started spewing from the gun followed by the games. The third time I took it out with wolf ammo was the second time it happened.

dmax11
10-02-2010, 2:26 AM
cosmo can cause all kinds of strange problems inside an action. if all you used was hoppe's i would highly recommend you go to walmart or a hardware store and pick up some mineral spirits and soak all your metal parts in it. for the bolt if you don't want to remove the firing pin soak it in MS and work the pin back and forth and i bet you anything you will see oil stained stuff come out of the bolt (cosmoline that was inside the channel coming out)

its cheap and definitely worth a shot and you never know it might just fix your problems, worst case scenario is you know its absolutely cosmo free at least

taloft
10-02-2010, 3:53 AM
it fired but all this smoke came out of the gun from the chamber and piston area. The next round fired okay, but the following two didn't, then one fired okay and the last ftf.

If it is a 59/66 yugo odds are that your cycling problems are the result of a bad gas valve. A very common problem with this model. The corrosive ammo eats them until they fail. As the rifle heats up, the valve may be expanding to the point where it leaks. This would give less pressure, and cause poor cycling. $10.00 for a new valve and you're gtg. Mac has the right idea, $10.00 is cheap insurance.

A stuck firing pin usually results in slamfires, not a failure to feed. Pierced primers usually result if the head spacing is bad. Since this appears to be happening once the gun is hot, I'd guess the smoke is excess oil burning off. If cosmo was mixing with the lacquer and forming a glue, the firing pin would be stuck upon cooling and wouldn't rattle freely. If it was forming in the chamber, it can slow the bolt travel or you'd have failures to eject or a seized bolt. However, I'm a firm believer in making sure it is cosmo free.

I'd guess you have a gas valve starting to go south coupled with excess oil along the bolt group, and possibly bad ammo. You can eliminate bad ammo simply by trying a couple of boxes of something else.

Moress
10-02-2010, 2:28 PM
I found the problem. I took the gun out today. On the 49th round, it started smoking again. I located the ejected casing and the primer was pierced (see photo of primers). I took the bolt assembly out and lo and behold the pin was stuck firmly in place. Took it completly apart at home and I couldn't find anything wrong with it.

Moress
10-02-2010, 2:32 PM
Here are some more pics

dmax11
10-02-2010, 3:10 PM
your firing pin looks very odd to me, its cone shaped as is the indentation in the primer that is not popped.

i'm no expert and only have two rifles but neither my 59/66 or my M91/30's firing pins are cone shaped like that. they are straight points that come to a very slightly rounded point an my primers after firing on both look normal with just an indentation that is no where near the size of the primer like yours is.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd99/va_plinker/hole.jpg

not my picture but shows you what it should look like with proper firing pin protrusion on the right

i'm guessing that your pin and bolt are very worn and this has caused the problem, your pin protrusion is right now probably bordering on piercing primers on a regular basis and with continued use it probably will. what ever you do don't try to fire boxer primed ammo because if your pin is doing that to wolf's very hard berdan primer i cant imagine what might happen if you loaded american ammo into it

someone with more experience with SKS bolts should confirm this first but i would think replacing your pin might be enough to fix the problem, if not a bolt replacement would but that will require having a gun smith fit the new bolt to your rifle and checking head space to ensure its safe to fire.

Tapco makes a new universal bolt replacement for SKS's it is made a little big so it can be filed smaller to fit any SKS.

Murray's makes a spring loaded firing pin that you could try first if someone confirms its safe to do so still that may fix the problem as well or you could also just send your bolt to them so they can check it out and fix any issues if possible with it. they are very experienced with SKS bolts and SKS's in general.

http://www.murraysguns.com/sksown.htm

dmax11
10-02-2010, 3:14 PM
just a thought but could you take a picture of your bolt face with the pin in the full forward position?

i'd just like to see what it looks like vs mine, these pins are cone shape so disregard that part i said before but still AFAIK the only two ways to get pierced primers with SKS's is via the volcanoing of the bolt face or by a really worn bolt/firing pin.

then again it could just be the ammo did you try something else or were you shooting wolf again?

dmax11
10-02-2010, 3:18 PM
also check out

http://www.murraysguns.com/docs/POPPED_PRIMERS.pdf

paul0660
10-02-2010, 3:32 PM
If you haven't owned your sks since new and don't know the round count a Murray's pin and a replacement gas valve are really good ideas.

BTW, taking the bolt apart to clean it is not regular maintenance. It is easy to booger the pin and/or the pin hole and should only be done to repair a faulty pin or to clean it when simply shooting solvent into the bolt doesn't get the pin to rattle. Murray charges $10 to install his pin and otherwise tune up the bolt.......well worth it.

Moress
10-02-2010, 5:02 PM
I'm thinking I should just buy a new bolt assembbly from Numrich, they have it for $60.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=853580&filter=59%2f66+bolt&catid=0

Edit: While I'm at it I'll save on shipping and get a new gas valve too, hopefully that will fix the problems I'm having?

Mac
10-02-2010, 5:11 PM
from the pics that is a filthy looking firing pin. cosmo I suspect. who knows?
paul0660 has a good point not regular maintenance just if you suspect it is jammed with debris or Cosmo(in the event you just got the rifle).

I would just stick the Bolt either together or apart in a pot of boiling water on the stove and boil it for 5 minutes or
so. Dry it off. See how much cleaner the pin gets. then see if she rattles back and forth easier.

You just have some little knit picking issues to square away.
Maybe take some Brake Cleaner and clean out your chamber well and a spray in the bolt on each end.

weird you shot it for awhile then popped a primer when it got hot. switched to Wolf.
you took the bolt apart at the range to take the pics?
Do you have the firing pin in correctly? like the video says.

dmax11
10-02-2010, 5:34 PM
I'm thinking I should just buy a new bolt assembbly from Numrich, they have it for $60.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=853580&filter=59%2f66+bolt&catid=0

Edit: While I'm at it I'll save on shipping and get a new gas valve too, hopefully that will fix the problems I'm having?

if you go with a whole new bolt you must get its fit and function checked in your rifle by a gunsmith, it will probably either fail to lock or lock too loosely when the action is closed and then you got bigger problems than you currently have

that is why i suggested if you want a whole new bolt to get a Tapco made one. the specifically make them too big so they can be filed down to lock in an SKS correctly. head space also needs to be checked as well to make sure it is safe to fire, if it has too much head space your rifle could blow apart in your face when you fire it.

Moress
10-02-2010, 6:43 PM
The bolt assembly looks dirty because I didn't clean it after firing it, I just took the pics right after it pierced the primer, its not cosmo.

What can I do without going to a gun smith? I don't know of any reliable gunsmiths here.

dmax11
10-02-2010, 6:54 PM
if your confident doing what murray's does to bolts you send them you can do try that.

A small stone, laid flat on the bolt face, can easily remove the raised area with a moderate amount of pressure and rubbing back and forth. But don’t take too much, as excessive headspace problems can arise if too much is removed from original bolt face. After that is done, we use an 82 degree countersink bit, between the thumb and forefinger, and with hand pressure only, we very slightly countersink the firing pin hole. Ten to fifteen thousandths deep is plenty. This will create a tiny raised edge around the firing pin hole, so again, lay the stone on bolt face and very lightly remove the ring that you created. That’s it.

its pretty simple to do really just don't go overboard. view that PDF i linked above for photo's of their before and afters on bolts to get an idea of how much. the idea is that popped primers are primarily caused by raised edges around the firing pin hole on the bolt face. what your doing is making sure the bolt face is flat and then putting a slight countersink on the hole so metal does not flair out over time and cause the problem again.

Moress
10-03-2010, 1:06 AM
if your confident doing what murray's does to bolts you send them you can do try that.



its pretty simple to do really just don't go overboard. view that PDF i linked above for photo's of their before and afters on bolts to get an idea of how much. the idea is that popped primers are primarily caused by raised edges around the firing pin hole on the bolt face. what your doing is making sure the bolt face is flat and then putting a slight countersink on the hole so metal does not flair out over time and cause the problem again.

This doesn't add up tho. The bolt face looks and feels completly flat. The pin is in good shape too.

Edit: I measured the length that the pin protrudes from the bolt face and its roughly .06" is that too far?

Moress
10-03-2010, 1:54 AM
Here are some more pics. The first couple are the ones you requested with the pin all the way forward. The others are better pics of the pin itself.

Edit: I forgot to mention I was shooting Wolf again.

dmax11
10-03-2010, 8:24 AM
This doesn't add up tho. The bolt face looks and feels completly flat. The pin is in good shape too.

Edit: I measured the length that the pin protrudes from the bolt face and its roughly .06" is that too far?

no, sounds about right to me. i cannot find the figures for tolerance on protrusion for the SKS probably because its not adjustable anyways but on another rifle like say a mosin nagant the range for protrusion is .075" - .095" so if anything yours might be a little short. i don't have any calpers here otherwise i would measure mine for you but my yugo's pin definitely protrudes less than my mosin nagant's pin but my mosin nagant's pin is adjusted on the high side i'd say around .080" - .090" because i shoot some old surplus through it and if its set on the low side i will get a FTF every once in awhile.

you really should try at least counter sinking the FP hole slightly, remember that when you fire a round the primer gets extremely hot and molds itself to the face of your bolt, if there is even a slight sharp edge around the FP hole it's been very well known to cause pierced primers with berdan ammo like wolf. i've searched around for other causes but this is by far the most common cause for it to happen and the easiest thing to fix.

short of doing this i would say try some other ammo like brown/silver bear, golden tiger, yugo surplus (mildly corrosive so clean it with hot water or windex within a day after shooting it) it might just be the super cheap wolf ammo that does is, i don't think i've had it happen yet with wolf but then again i've only shot 70 out of 500 rounds that i have of the stuff and my yugo was unissued so it had no wear on any metal parts when i got it and its round count is at about 110 right now.

dmax11
10-03-2010, 8:27 AM
pin protrusion looks fine in your photo's clean that sucker up its still very dirty :)

get some pipe cleaners or similar as well and clean the firing pin channel in the bolt real good as well

Moress
10-03-2010, 3:33 PM
Just a quick update, I went to the hardware store and I bought some grinding stones (they were the orange cylinder shaped ones that go in a drill) and a 7/64 drill bit (Also meant for a drill), it was 118 degres though. I grinded down the bolt face a little bit, and I also counterbored it like it said in the tutorial. Did everything by hand. Left a bunch of scratch's on the bolt face from the grinding stone, but it looks flat so w/e.

I then placed all the pieces in boiling wated to clean out any cosmo (There wasn't) and followed up with some hoppes 9, and even gunzilla to make sure everything was out.

I ran into a problem when I went to put the pin back it, it wasn't fitting loosely. Turns out the last time I blew out a pimer it also bent my firing pin so I spent about 30 minutes carefully straigtening it out. Not everything is clean and fits fine. The pin rattles around like it should. I'm also hoping I grinded the bolt face just enough to remove the volcano effect. I was going off visual and feel, but when I laid a flat edge across the bolt face, it seemed to rest flat every direction I set it so hopefully thats the end of that chapter.

Hopefully I'll test it out soon and let you guys know the results. If this doesn't work I guess I'm just gonna have to buy a new bolt assembly.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

dmax11
10-03-2010, 5:44 PM
you didn't use a drill when you faced the bolt right?

in any event be safe and only load two rounds at a time when you take it out just to be safe to make sure its working correctly.

good luck.

Moress
10-03-2010, 6:55 PM
No, I did the work by hand just like the pdf said. I never even had it sweat cosmo on me, even after rapid fire. I cleaned it pretty well after I got it. :)

Moress
10-03-2010, 6:57 PM
@ :-) do you remember how many total rounds you shot through it when you had it? Also, what brand ammo did the primer pop on you? I'm thinking about switching from wolf to brown bear.

dmax11
10-04-2010, 2:00 AM
yeah they do get surprisingly hot very quickly, mine has yet to sweat cosmo from the stock though because i got most of it out by making it sweat under the sun for a few days :)

wolf is cheap and crappy ammo, i regret not picking up some yugo surplus when the gun show was here a few weeks ago, i could have got 400 rounds for the same price i paid for 500 of the wolf. i've heard nothing but great things about that ammo and how accurate it is.

from what i hear silver bear is also very good brown bear not so much at least in terms of accuracy, i shot some brown bear SP out of mine before it worked fine but accuracy was meh just like wolf.

people also say american brass x39 shoots better but i won't even try it due to the risks of getting doubles and triples with the free floating FP and the very soft boxer primer found on most american made commercial ammo.

Moress
10-04-2010, 2:19 AM
Other then the material the casings are coated, is there a difference? Maybe I'll go with Golden Bear?

dmax11
10-04-2010, 2:22 AM
Other then the material the casings are coated, is there a difference? Maybe I'll go with Golden Bear?

sure why not, if silver bear is good golden bear should be equal or better as they are made by the same company anyways.

Moress
10-04-2010, 10:41 AM
Just gotback from the range, 90 rounds no problem whatsoever. Ill have to go through some more testing before I'm sure, but so far it looks good after grinding down the bolt face.

Moress
10-04-2010, 1:22 PM
I didn't take much off the bolt face, just a hair.
What's a go- no go gauge?

dmax11
10-04-2010, 3:03 PM
Your fine, just check your spent casings and compare to new ones if they look the same headspace is good. You shot 90 rounds through it if you had bad headspace you would see it in the casings

Vanilla Gorilla
10-04-2010, 3:52 PM
I had the same problem with my Russian sks a older jentelman at the range told me not to lube the bcg after I cleaned the gun sounded kinda crazy to me but I tried it either way and I didn't have any problems after that

gunzboatz
10-04-2010, 6:32 PM
What's a go- no go gauge?

They're metal(usually carbide, very hard) pieces you use to check headspace. Usually owned by gunsmiths. :Pirate:

Mac
10-04-2010, 7:23 PM
I had the same problem with my Russian sks a older jentelman at the range told me not to lube the bcg after I cleaned the gun sounded kinda crazy to me but I tried it either way and I didn't have any problems after that

Probably because that was not the only sopping wet SKS bolt carrier he saw at the range that day.:D Kidding you.

AR's run dry too. Not a good idea. the Key word is bearing surfaces. See the manual
"Cleaning the SKS #6.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/38011170/Sks-Instruction-Manual


yeah they do funny things when over greased/lubed.