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View Full Version : Do I Modify my S&A Mil Spec or Sell It???


Nate74
07-23-2010, 8:13 PM
After 250 rounds through my S&A 1911 Mil Spec, I've determined that it rather enjoys biting my hand. After the first 100 rounds with the factory grips I had a pretty bad blister on the typical 1911 spot on the top of my hand.

I put a set of the Hogue wrap around grips on it thinking that might move my hand in such a way that it might help. I put 100 rounds & 50 rounds through it on back to back weekend outings. Even with the Hogue grips, which did feel quite nice, I still ended up with a pretty bad blister on my hand.

So here's what I'm considering. For probably $75-$100 I could change the hammer and put a beavertail grip safety on it. But here are my concerns:

- Is this something I can do or do I need to pay a gunsmith?
- If I can do it myself, are there specialty tools required?
- Is the work reversible should I ever decide to put the gun back to stock?
- After I do this upgrade, how long until I wish I had adjustable sites?:)

Depending on where I land on all this, I might consider selling this gun and saving up a bit for a Loaded (or similar) model...

JTROKS
07-23-2010, 8:20 PM
Wilson Combat and King's Gun Works has a drop in beavertail. It's more designed for a Colt so you may want to call them up and ask for tech help prior to placing an order.

OneSevenDeuce
07-23-2010, 8:23 PM
There are so called "drop in" parts for the ones you want to replace. Some parts require some fitting, and would need to be done by someone with experience. Others will go right in. Check reviews and do your research online. Replacing those two parts is relatively easy and there are lots of tutorials out there if you decide you want to. Honestly, more often than not, if you want a perfect fit it's a good idea to have a part custom fitted to your gun. But drop in parts that require no fitting can be decent as well.

socalblue
07-23-2010, 8:35 PM
Beavertail = very easy. Any fitting can be done in 5 minutes & needs a file & sandpaper (Most drop right in).

hammer = gunsmith. Mistake there & you could have a Title II toy (IE: it can either fail to fire or go full auto). I had a 1911 go FA on me when a hammer spur broke (Only had 3 rounds left in the magazine) & it was a handful to keep pointed down range.

buffybuster
07-23-2010, 8:46 PM
If your getting "hammer bite" from the hammer versus the grip safety, then what I would do before taking out the wallet, is bob/reshape the hammer spur a bit. Just enough to eliminate the pinching but still enough to easily cock/decock the hammer. If that still didn't take care of it, then think about a beavertail grip safety (a fitted one, not drop-in, if you're going to do it, it's worth doing right) and a commander type hammer.

9mmepiphany
07-23-2010, 8:48 PM
i personally dislike the drop-in grip safeties, because they leave large gaps on the sides where they are relieved to clear the tangs of the frame...but it is the only way to go it yourself and have it be reversible.

the hammer is neither a DIY project without some experience nor is it generally reversible

the easiest cure would be to bob the hammer spur

foxtrotuniformlima
07-23-2010, 8:53 PM
You modify it. Customize it so it fits your hand perfectly. Blend the frame & safety so that it accommodates your hand. You will not believe the difference.

DIY if that is your style or have a gunsmith do it if you need to have stuff perfect.

nn3453
07-23-2010, 9:07 PM
Might be a different opinion. As someone who has owned a number of 1911s through the years, by advice would be, sell the Milspec and buy something you enjoy. You will never make up what you spend on it when you decide to sell.

spencerhut
07-23-2010, 10:38 PM
Personally, I like to tinker and had this Mil-Spec to play with. The beavertail was a very good change to the gun, well worth the effort. It was a little bit of work, not too bad. Just need a couple of files and the little contour jig. The Jig and the beavertail are about $40 or so if I remember correctly. The first time you do one it will take more than five minutes. Depends entirely on how picky you are and how carefully you work. Mine is far from perfect, but is still better than a lot of the Loaded models I've seen. If your is not stainless you will need some cold blue to hide the bare metal. If it is stainless, you will need to polish a bit http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SX8XKLZWbEA/SysC15V0VlI/AAAAAAAAIlM/4bhmrPRgVZA/s800/DSCF9069.JPG

WINGEDSWORD
07-23-2010, 10:59 PM
Before going to the trouble of changing parts, see if a friend has a pistol with a beavertail and try it. they don't suit everyone. I've been shooting 1911's for over 50 years. none of mine (4) have one.

randy
07-24-2010, 12:11 AM
The gun is mil spec so all standard 1911 parts will drop in, or should.

Bob the hammer is the cheapest, buy a Commander hammer. Put it together correctly and shoot it. If the guy above has you worried about the gun going F/A then put 2 rounds in it and pull the trigger once.

If you don't like the hammer take it out no big deal nothing has changed in the gun.

spencerhut
07-24-2010, 6:17 AM
Geez . . . totally forgot to even mention the hammer. As you can see in my picture about I bobbed the snot out of my stock hammer so it would function. It did work, but looked like some redneck (me) took a hacksaw to it. I ended up fixing this correctly by putting a Cylinder and Slide Tactical Match Trigger Pull kit in it. Trigger pull did not really change much, but my gun had well over 15k rounds down the tube when I did this work to it so the trigger was worn smooth.

The Grip Safety was 849-009-027 (Brownells)
The Fitting Jig was 849-009-000 (Brownells)
The hammer was Cylinder and Slide CS085

You are messing with the guns safety system so make sure you carefully follow all the test procedures in the Cylinder and Slide kit.

CSACANNONEER
07-24-2010, 6:40 AM
I think that you should man up and accept the blisters until you develop a calius. That way, you will be forced to shoot on a regular basis or get blisters.

9mmepiphany
07-24-2010, 8:04 AM
The gun is mil spec so all standard 1911 parts will drop in, or should.

Bob the hammer is the cheapest, buy a Commander hammer. Put it together correctly and shoot it. If the guy above has you worried about the gun going F/A then put 2 rounds in it and pull the trigger once.

If you don't like the hammer take it out no big deal nothing has changed in the gun.

i just remembered a different route you could go...cheaper isn't always

get a hammer and sear pre-fitted set and just swap them in. save the hammer and sear you take out in case you want to change back

Mr. Beretta
07-24-2010, 8:20 AM
Sell it now & get something that works for you!

If you put money into it, chances are you'll still not be happy with it & plus when you do sell it, you won't get your investment back.

Good Luck!

Nate74
07-24-2010, 2:27 PM
Well a lot to think about for sure. I think shooting one at the range with a beavertail will be the first step. The range I frequent has several Kimbers and a Colt among others, all with the beavertail.

If I like one of them, I guess I have to decide what to do with the Mil Spec. I really do like the looks of the Mil Spec, but a gun that hurts to shoot doesn't seem to make much sense.

Thanks to everybody for your thoughts on this.

ojisan
07-24-2010, 2:43 PM
I think that you should man up and accept the blisters until you develop a calius. That way, you will be forced to shoot on a regular basis or get blisters.

You're a mean and crusty old codger today, aren't you?
Ehhh...you're like this every day...never mind.
:p

Must have beavertail (especially with 10mm).
:yes: