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4thSBCT
06-05-2010, 7:56 PM
After getting my feet wet with a few stamped reciever AKs, I felt it was time to swim in the deep end and build a milled AK. I already have exp welding and if you lack exp welding its not very hard to learn. On the first try I followed a How to thread on AK files but ended up warping the reciever. No prob, working with milled stubs, its very easy to cut and start over. I'm using a Lincoln Mig 220v. I wouldnt reccomend anything less powerful but it can certainly be done with a less powerful machine.

If you have any questions comments or suggetions shoot me a pm and I will try to help. I'm still learning but I've gathered enough info to help if anyone needs it.

I started by picking up a front and rear stub for 60 shipped. Found a kit missing stubs with barrel that was actually shiney for 190. Repair plates ran 70. (From user VZ58 on gunco.com) total was 320. I threw together a Jig using scrap metal from a buddy. The jig helps align the pieces during welding.

I used an unbent ak builder underfolder flat and traced it out on a piece of paper. From what I understand all milled and stamped ak's have the same measurements at the top. I laid out my stubs on the tracing and finished tracing the missing section. After cutting out the missing section I traced, I layed the traced paper template on my repair plates. A little trimming later I had perfect repair sections the correct length for my repair. My repair plates came with rails already milled into them so all I needed to do was weld in an ejector that came with the repair plates.

Next bevelled the edges of each piece. (this helps achieve a larger welding surface area) I clamped my stubs and repair plates inplace on the jig using c clamps and channel locks and cleaned the surfaces with soapy water. Any oil residue can contaminate the weld and reduce its strength. I tacked each corner and middle of each piece to reduce the chances of anything warping. After tacking the first plate into place I unclamped it from the jig and used my top cover to check for proper fit and OAL length. After reclamping to jig I used single spot welds and alternating sides to prevent overheating and warping. A wet rags helps cool the metal after each weld also. Once welded I ground most of the surfaces smooth and repeated the steps for the other side....

Time to weld up the outside surfaces. To get a good weld I used a dremel to open up the seem where the plates meet. This will ensure a nice deep weld that connects to the inside weld. I used the same process of tacking and welding for the outside that I used on the inside. Once complete the receiver sides should be finished. The next 2400253 hours were spent filing the welds down smooth. I will update this thread as I go....

Pikturs time
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3332.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3333.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3335.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3334.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3337.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3338.jpg

4thSBCT
06-05-2010, 7:58 PM
....

4thSBCT
06-05-2010, 7:58 PM
.....

AK4me
06-05-2010, 8:06 PM
That is very cool man, keep us updated.

69Mach1
06-05-2010, 8:47 PM
That's awesome!

Z ME FLY
06-05-2010, 8:50 PM
Looks good...

*paging Nico!*

He has a nice Milled Yugo UF he rewelded himself.

SJgunguy24
06-05-2010, 9:03 PM
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3332.jpg


Cool thread but thats a safety fail on that tank. Really please secure that to a cart or something solid with a strap or chain.
I'd hate to hear about a Calgunner getting killed because that tank was stopped by his head.

TURBOELKY
06-05-2010, 9:13 PM
Cool thread but thats a safety fail on that tank. Really please secure that to a cart or something solid with a strap or chain.
I'd hate to hear about a Calgunner getting killed because that tank was stopped by his head.

Awsome job bro, looking good! As for the post above, well, I dont know. I do know, I'm sure there's more hazards in my garage than yours....does that mean I'm the winner?:rolleyes:

4thSBCT
06-05-2010, 9:18 PM
Cool thread but thats a safety fail on that tank. Really please secure that to a cart or something solid with a strap or chain.
I'd hate to hear about a Calgunner getting killed because that tank was stopped by his head.

thanks for looking out but I just took it out for a picture it goes in a wooden fixture attached to a wall in the garage.

69Mach1
06-05-2010, 9:19 PM
Next group build is at your place. I've got a Russian milled kit. Oh that's right, you already know that.

SJgunguy24
06-05-2010, 9:21 PM
thanks for looking out but I just took it out for a picture it goes in a wooden fixture attached to a wall in the garage.

Ok, I'm not trying to threadjack but stuff like that freaks me out. Too many have died from cutting corners and saving time.

Weld away my good man.

4thSBCT
06-05-2010, 9:29 PM
Next group build is at your place. I've got a Russian milled kit. Oh that's right, you already know that.

LOL, my place, thats a good one. Have you ever seen a 2 car garage with no cars in it but only standing room for 2 people..... Oh and my next milled build is a type 3.....your trading me for the crutch stock remember?

Gio
06-05-2010, 9:53 PM
Need more pics, good to see a milled kit being rebuilt ;)

4thSBCT
06-05-2010, 10:12 PM
Need more pics, good to see a milled kit being rebuilt ;)

let me know what you want to see and I'll get pics

Also thanks to fredie for helping me out with info :cheers2:

Z ME FLY
06-05-2010, 10:17 PM
let me know what you want to see and I'll get pics

Also thanks to fredie for helping me out with info :cheers2:

Let's get some progress pictures and the finish product when it comes

nicoroshi
06-05-2010, 10:19 PM
Looks good...

*paging Nico!*

He has a nice Milled Yugo UF he rewelded himself.
Wha? Who? Me?

LMAO.

Nice work going on there. Watch the inclusions on the rear weld. may wish to run a grinder down it, and run a cap on it to make sure it's solid.
I agree that the bottle needs to be tied off. I have seen one pop. Not pretty. They spin in all strange directions, and it was a brick wall that finally stopped it (punched a nice round hole through it!).

VZ58 has a nice tutorial on how to for those guys wishing to do this. Not that tough if you take your time, and line everything up nice. My Milled Yugo M-70 underfolder is one of my favorite rifles. Cycles like it's warm buttered, and very accurate with an Aimpoint mounted, and new Green Mountain barrel installed.
Couple of pics for ya guys who are interested.

The start
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/9487/dscn3187.jpg

The middle
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/3058/dscn3280.jpg
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8564/dscn3297l.jpg

The end
http://firingsquad.us/albums/Nico-Personal/DSCN3968.sized.jpg

How she shoots 10 at 100yards
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8113/dscn3974b.jpg

Keep up the good work. She'll be the pride of your collection.

4thSBCT
06-05-2010, 10:34 PM
Watch the inclusions on the rear weld.

I'm so sick of filing though :(

nicoroshi
06-05-2010, 10:43 PM
I have plenty of practice with a 4" grinder (been using them in my trade for more than 20 years). Trick is to get it nice, and close then finish with a file. Interior I thank the dremel tool for. Picked up a cheap single speed Craftsman for $30 at OSH. Worth every penny.
Don't get to sick of filing yet. On mine I had to file a groove under the hammer spring as well as remove some metal around the base of the trigger (on the inside) to get it to reset, and break nicely. This was due to the base metal being rather thick. I also had to countersink the axis pin holes so that the pins traveled far enough into the receiver so I could install the retaining plate in the grooves.
Plenty of fit up involved but in the end it has the tightest tolerances of any of my builds, and runs like a champ.
Yep......It's my favorite build out of the 7 I have worked on. Probably why I dumped the cash for a new barrel, and an Aimpoint for her.
Gotta spoil the sweet ones. :D
The file is your friend.

E-120
06-05-2010, 11:27 PM
Nice work.

Mikeb
06-06-2010, 9:34 AM
What kind of steel is the receiver? Is the weld hard? Do you need to draw the reeceiver after welding? I know with welding alloy steel you often have to bring the peice up to 7 or 8 hundred degrees to draw the hardness out of the weld area.
Oh, building welding carts is fun...
take care
Mike

SJgunguy24
06-06-2010, 9:50 AM
What kind of steel is the receiver? Is the weld hard? Do you need to draw the reeceiver after welding? I know with welding alloy steel you often have to bring the peice up to 7 or 8 hundred degrees to draw the hardness out of the weld area.
Oh, building welding carts is fun...
take care
Mike

VZ58 makes his plates from 1018 and 4130. You can buy repair sections with the rails and ejector done already. Looks easy, just gotta have a good fit up and bevel the edges to get full penetration.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CBUQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwlawarehouse.com%2Fstore_front%2F ak_variants%2Fm70_repair_section%2F&ei=9s8LTPfPHaCuNce_kLUE&usg=AFQjCNGCAYM0iBSIP0e0fKDB5UPYlPZs7w

Q
06-06-2010, 12:06 PM
I kinda want to try rewelding one of these. If I did it would be the Yugo UF..
Here's a pic from Iraq. I had some from Bosnia but I can't find them.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/qbertquartz2/IRAQIPOLICEMAN1.jpg

nicoroshi
06-06-2010, 6:05 PM
The welding is not tough but I do recommend a 220 mig welder with 75%Argon 25% CO2 mix shield gas for a clean weld. It does not need to be heat treated after welded but I did spot heat treat my axis pin holes, and ejector (just like for a flat bend build).
Basically the section we're replacing doesn't take much force. It only hold the rear, and front of the receiver together as well as holding the FCG, and ejector.
The front, and rear stubs are heat treated already. Just stay 1/2" away from the locking lugs with your weld bead so that the hardness is not effected by the weld heat.

BTW that pic above.
Dude has the rear sight set for 200 yards, and '0' cheek weld. Looks like he's just blowing off rounds without aiming as his eye appears a good 2" above the sight line.

Apex used to have Yugo M-70 milled kits for $250 a few months ago (where I got mine) but it appears that they only have the screw in barrel M64 kits in stock right now (for milled Yugo).

Looking forward to some more pics from the OP on his build.

4thSBCT
06-06-2010, 6:20 PM
Looking forward to some more pics from the OP on his build.

I am at work right now finishing the cleanup of the inside welds and I also trimmed most of the bottums section off the plates. I left a couple milimeters of material on the bottum until I all the holes drilled and bolt and carrier riding smooth. I ground and capped some of the inclusion on the welds but not all and to tell you the truth Im over trying to get every little pok mark.

Hopefully by tom I'll have the rec finished and I'll post pics at that time. These milled recievers have a special place in my heart now for AKs. I fell like I could throw this reciever in the lakes of hell and nothing would happen to it. I love it.

I notice my front stub has a recessed spot for the barrel pin like that of stamped trunnions and some stubs have slab sides. Anyone have any info on this?

munkeeboi
06-06-2010, 7:11 PM
Nice work 4th, Got this back from Turbothis. Smooth as a whistle and solid as a rock.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47/munkeeboi/bang/IMG_7305.jpg

Z ME FLY
06-06-2010, 7:14 PM
Nice work 4th, Got this back from Turbothis. Smooth as a whistle and solid as a rock.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47/munkeeboi/bang/IMG_7305.jpg

We gotta go shooting next time I am down there.

nicoroshi
06-06-2010, 10:35 PM
There is something to be said for the Yugo rifles in general, and especially the milled receiver ones.
I would feel alright throwing my pressed receiver builds out of a moving car, and them still functioning. My milled I would feel comfortable running it over with said car, and it still functioning.
Heavy little buggers though. I'd hate to carry one all day if in a battle situation.

The Yugos also have heavier barrels, top covers, and IMHO just a more solid construction than other makes.

Nice re-weld from Turbothis munkeeboi.

4thSBCT
06-07-2010, 9:50 PM
wish i had more progress to report but between watching my 8 month old son and having my dremel break I hardly got to put any time in on it. At least I was able to finish shaping the ejector from a rectangle, Also made the cut outs for the bolt and carrier and got them to ride smooth in the receiver. My rear stub came with the bolt carrier cut out intact but when testing my carrier with recoil spring I noticed it would jump off the rails when it reach the back of the reciever. This seemed strange since it was the factory work...sooo..I just added some weld material to each cut out to tighten up the space...problem solved....man I love welding. Now, I will just enjoy the little stabing metal shavings in my hands and arms...maybe someday I'll try a pair of gloves out....maybe.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_1684.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_1687.jpg

TURBOELKY
06-07-2010, 11:07 PM
Looking good bro. Dont bother with the gloves, it just pushed the metal in deeper:D

4thSBCT
06-09-2010, 8:12 PM
went to work on my yugo today and started feeling down.....I thought about the rifle as a finished build and was just not feeling it. I'm usually and AK purist.... but after having my usual case of beer things started getting a little crazy. I'll let the pictures do the explaining since I'm still drinking. All I have left is the trigger guard and some welding on the bottum and its finished. The holes I need to drill for the trigger guard are right over the welds on either side and since the weld much stronger than the metal your working on its being a real beotch..

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3347.jpg?t=1276139245
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3340.jpg?t=1276139321

Still working on the bottum
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3343.jpg?t=1276139361

Nice and flushhttp://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3348.jpg?t=1276139441

nice and flush my ***, can someone explain whats up with the extra long axis pins?
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_3349.jpg?t=1276139476

E-120
06-09-2010, 8:44 PM
My favorite feature on the Yugo is the spring catch for putting the top cover back on.

4thSBCT
06-09-2010, 8:51 PM
My favorite feature on the Yugo is the spring catch for putting the top cover back on.

I hate how everything is staked in place on yugos even the underfolder pins are staked in.....crazy slovaks

Gio
06-09-2010, 8:58 PM
Looking good so far, but I have no clue about the axis pins sticking out like that.

4thSBCT
06-09-2010, 10:38 PM
BTW yours is way better than most I have seen.

thanks man I appreciate the good words....I guess I didnt do to bad for my first time around

Q
06-10-2010, 1:57 AM
The handguards look nice. If you had a matching wood grip that would be sweet. Cool build. That looks like a Real Khyber Pass creation..:)

SVT_Fox
06-10-2010, 6:37 AM
this thread makes me happy, GREAT WORK BOYS!

Nick1236
06-10-2010, 7:37 AM
Sorry for asking dumb questions But I am stumped here. I have tried looking it up but no success. Is there a COMPLETE online turtorial on welding one of these? Do you just buy the parts kit thats all chopped up and simply weld it back together, or is the parts kit seperate and you have to buy a receiver and weld it all together? What is the complete parts list. I have access to a nice welder and would like to consider making one of these.

Thanks for answering my noob questions.

4thSBCT
06-10-2010, 9:52 AM
There is a good online how to thread here:
http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19207&highlight=milled+m70

The parts kits usually come with a front a rear receiver section along with all the rest of the parts to build a complete rife. You will need to purchase repair sections for the missing middle portion of the reciever. The person who created the thread I linked you to above sells the repair sections so get in contact with him.

nicoroshi
06-10-2010, 4:55 PM
Looking good bro.
My axis pins were the same way. Due to the thickness of the repair plates I received from VZ58 I had to countersink the heads of the axis pins like you did in order to catch the notch on the interior with the retaining plate. This put the small ends of the pins sticking out of the right side of the receiver (just like yours is). Not a big deal. Just mark them, and cut then to size for your receiver.
Gravy baby.
Very well done. I know what it takes to do, and I applaud your craftsmanship.

4thSBCT
06-13-2010, 5:49 PM
Here she is as of today, just need to squash the rivets, I set them in for the pic.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_0938.jpg?t=1276476471
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c382/trevormoore1984/IMG_0936.jpg?t=1276476550

nicoroshi
06-13-2010, 6:07 PM
Looks good Bro.
Another successful re-weld is born. :D

So....Since I don't know your location I figure the stock is locked open if you're in CA.
I kicked around that idea myself but in the end opted instead for an extended muzzle device to gain the 30" OAL required in CA yet keep the underfolder operational.
Personally I couldn't see owning an underfolder that couldn't fold.
If you're in CA, and would like to keep that underfolder operational I recommend Rick's muzzle breaks. Quality steel muzzle breaks for a decent price. I used his 5 1/2" model with a washer to get 30 1/16" OAL on my build.
I did try the fake can idea but believe it or not that fake can was heavier, and would not stay screwed in no matter what (even drilled a hole to catch the FSB detent) which affected accuracy. I believe it's the steel (of the barrel), and the aluminum (of the fake can) expanding at different rates as the barrel heats up that was the root of the issue.
Nothing but good things to say after switching to one of Rick's muzzle breaks though.

BTW If you're in a free state forget what I posted above.

TURBOELKY
06-13-2010, 6:59 PM
looking good man, how many Sierra Nevada's did you have to drink to finish that???:D

scotthmt
06-13-2010, 7:04 PM
someone post upt he pic of the underfolder with the huge airchisel spike welded on the end, LOL, god that thing was ugmo

woodey
06-13-2010, 7:32 PM
Looking good , that is on my list & in the parts bin to do "some day":rolleyes:

4thSBCT
06-13-2010, 7:47 PM
Now I'm just waiting for my 1960's milled wooden grip from apex..I've befriended some of the workers there and they said they would find a nice grip with some carvings on it. can't wait....I love those guys at apex.

Looks good Bro.
Another successful re-weld is born. :D

So....Since I don't know your location I figure the stock is locked open if you're in CA.
I kicked around that idea myself but in the end opted instead for an extended muzzle device to gain the 30" OAL required in CA yet keep the underfolder operational.
Personally I couldn't see owning an underfolder that couldn't fold.
If you're in CA, and would like to keep that underfolder operational I recommend Rick's muzzle breaks. Quality steel muzzle breaks for a decent price. I used his 5 1/2" model with a washer to get 30 1/16" OAL on my build.
I did try the fake can idea but believe it or not that fake can was heavier, and would not stay screwed in no matter what (even drilled a hole to catch the FSB detent) which affected accuracy. I believe it's the steel (of the barrel), and the aluminum (of the fake can) expanding at different rates as the barrel heats up that was the root of the issue.
Nothing but good things to say after switching to one of Rick's muzzle breaks though.

BTW If you're in a free state forget what I posted above.

Thanks for the compliments, I am in california and its locked open. I would rather have it locked in place and looking normal than have a super duper long rifle with a folding stock. Now I just need to figure out how to blue this thing to make it look worn any tips?

looking good man, how many Sierra Nevada's did you have to drink to finish that???:D

Thanks bro, no SN, one case of blue ribbon, one case of miller , and a case of stella got the job done. Finished her up in three days putting in about 3 to 4 hours a day..

Maybe someday I'll get over the whole not chrome lined barrel thing and build a real yugo....

nicoroshi
06-13-2010, 8:01 PM
I have only tried two methods of cold bluing to date but here's the results on my milled re-weld for your consideration.

Birchwood Casy:

Kind of a BFPU look. Somewhat splotchy greenish/ rust tone.

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8922/dscn3326nc.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3580/dscn3327v.jpg

Blue Wonder

More of a factory looking blue/black with golden highlights (when the light hits it right). More even color, and easier to apply IMHO

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/555/dscn3333v.jpg
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/5313/dscn3337j.jpg

There are other options as well.
Could do a rust blue on it.
(i.e. place in air tight container with a rusting agent (I would use muriatic acid personally) for a day then allow to get covered with an even rust (sitting for a couple of days). Boil it. The rust will turn black. Then wire brush it. Repeat until desired color is achieved).
I have also heard good things of Oxpho-blue but have never used it personally.


As for your long rifle comment. Mine is 30 1/16" folded. The muzzle brake is 5 1/2".
How long is yours when locked open?
Just food for thought.