View Full Version : My CMP Select Garand Arrived Today (w/ pics)

03-12-2010, 3:55 PM
My CMP Select Grade Garand was delivered by Fed Ex this morning and fortunately for me it was my wife's day off so she could sign for it.:43:

The 5 pictures attached are the plain brown box, the first look at the rifle, the receiver, the trigger group covered with a thin film of grease, and a picture of the grip with a "P" mark on the stock.

The metal is in excellent shape. The bore seems bright and shiny with no pitting. The wood is a bit more dinged up than I expected, but it is still in sound condition. I do not think I need to replace it.

A couple of questions on cleaning. Is it OK to just clean the grease off the field stripped assemblies? I am a bit intimidated at the idea of complete disassembly right now. I have read that mineral spirits work just fine on the grease- consensus?

What about cleaning up the stock? Soap and water? Mineral spirits?
Is there anyway to reduce the dings and gouges simply?

I am sure my questions have been answered a thousand times before., so forgive me.

I have plenty of time to clean the rifle since I do not have any ammunition yet. My CMP order has not yet arrived.

What a beautiful beast of a weapon!:)

03-12-2010, 4:04 PM
Congrats, powaybob! Welcome to the addiction!

Regarding cosmoline, your hair dryer is your best friend. Your next closest friends are brake cleaner, rags, and q-tips.

As for disassembly, it's not that bad. The manual that comes with it is pretty good and there are tons of stuff on the internet that shows you how. Piece of cake really.

Regarding the wood, hair dryer and rags. Once all the cosmoline is off, you can take out some of the dings using a wet wash cloth and your Wifes iron (yes, she will appreciate it as well as the hair dryer...).

Check out any posts post from the milsurp collector as he is all over it. Some of the best advice I've seen yet.

Congratulations again, and looking froward to your next purchase!

4 Brigada
03-12-2010, 4:18 PM
I dont know I used some of my drool when I got mine:drool5: Now seriously here are some links that will help when the time comes to disassemble.



And of course you have the knowledge pool of the Calgunners to draw from. Knowledge pool , not gene poll.

03-12-2010, 4:24 PM
Far Eff'n out man! You will, if not already love her like a mail order bride. Right on Bro!!

Milsurp Collector
03-12-2010, 4:28 PM
As mls343 said, heat from a hair dryer easily liquefies cosmoline, then it can be wiped off with paper towels. It isn't necessary to remove every last molecule as it was applied as a preservative to prevent corrosion of the metal and rot in the wood, so it's a good thing. Whatever small amount remains will liquefy and drip off the first time you start shooting the rifle and it heats up.

Dents, dings, and scratches (but not chips or gouges) in the wood can be steamed out with a washcloth and steam iron. Wet the dent, apply a soaking-wet folded-in-two washcloth over the dent, then apply a steam iron set on the highest setting to the washcloth over the dent until it stops steaming. Check the results, re-wet the dent and cloth, and repeat as needed.

If you do a lot of steaming you will want to re-oil the wood. Everyone has their favorite, but in my opinion it is hard to beat the original products used by the military: 100% pure tung oil and raw linseed (flax seed) oil.

I use 100% pure tung oil as a "base coat" and raw linseed oil for upkeep. This duplicates what was done in the military: tung oil was used at Springfield Armory, raw linseed oil was used by the troops for maintenance.

Please be aware that "tung oil finish" like Minwax or Formby's, which is widely available at hardware stores, is not the same thing as 100% pure tung oil. The "tung oil" in the name is for marketing purposes and the products actually have little tung oil in them.

Boiled linseed oil (BLO) is also widely available in hardware stores, but I have found it doesn't give a nice red patina as it ages the way raw linseed oil does. It is available as "flaxseed oil" - a dietary supplement - in the health food stores, Walmart, Walgreens, etc. and also online. Make sure you buy the liquid and not the softgels.

Sources of 100% pure tung oil



Sources of raw linseed oil.



03-12-2010, 6:42 PM
See, I told ya! :iagree:

03-12-2010, 7:34 PM
Awesome information!! My credit card just got hit for my Service Grade SA Garand, so it should be here soon.

Eat Dirt
03-12-2010, 7:47 PM
Very Nice Poway Bob

I like the way you had the pics of the Big Moment
Showing us delivered box to complete Rifle

I just sent away yesterday for 2 Mossberg M 44 / .22

03-12-2010, 7:59 PM
Congrats on the new purchase, you'll love it!;)

03-12-2010, 8:58 PM
One day I will have one!!! Congrats on the new gun!

Milsurp Collector
03-12-2010, 9:11 PM
After you remove the cosmoline you'll have to lube the critical wear points. The M1 Rifle is lubed with grease, not oil.



You can use the mil-spec grease http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6525/Product/LUBRIPLATE_130_A_MIL__SPEC__GREASE but many guys use moly wheel bearing grease from the auto parts store.

If you want to shoot commercial .30-06 ammo you can use an adjustable gas plug. There are two makes available

Schuster http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?tabid=9&categoryid=12513&categorystring=10636***10560***9260***12508***
McCann http://www.mccannindustries.com/scope/parts.html

They can also be used with M2 ball ammo to reduce recoil and battering of the moving parts.

03-13-2010, 5:34 AM
Thanks Milsurp Collector!

I will heed your advice as I prepare this for use.

03-13-2010, 6:19 AM
Nice Garand. Congrats. Letting the parts and stock sit out in the sun for a few hours will melt a lot of the cosmo out of the stock and parts. Beyond that, brake cleaner works well on the metal parts, and I would just use heat on the stock to remove dings and extract cosmo.

03-13-2010, 6:36 AM
Nice Rifle! Congrats

Eat Dirt
03-13-2010, 6:36 AM
Thanks Milsurp Collector!

I will heed your advice

+ 1 on that . Thanks from another Garand owner

03-13-2010, 6:37 AM
Nice rifle! Milsurp Collector has got the straight dope, my Dad has told me about using Tung and Linseed oil during his time in the Service, and he has done it that way all his life.

I have my Dads Garand, but he carried a M-1 Carbine most of his time in Europe during the war. I need to see what CMP has in Carbines...

My Dad will hopefully turn 91 this year, his health is failing and I'm not sure how long he will be with us. I should have done this long ago so I could be sure to get one to show him.

03-13-2010, 8:58 AM
I can't get the gas cylinder lock to move. The plug came out easily but this does not want to move. I don't want to force it and break something. Any suggestions?

Milsurp Collector
03-13-2010, 9:53 AM
There is actually a wrench designed for that


It might be stuck from dried cosmoline. You could try heat or some kind of solvent. You could try channel locks if you put cardboard over the teeth on the jaws and wrap the jaws and cardboard with tape.

On the other hand, it isn't essential to remove the gas cylinder. It does make it easier to remove the op rod if the gas cylinder is off.

You don't have to completely disassemble the rifle. For example, there is no need to remove and metal from the stock or handguards. I rarely disassemble the bullet guide/follower/op rod catch assembly. Usually field stripping is enough to do whatever cleaning you need to do. Once you get it cleaned and lubed you shouldn't even take the stock off if you don't have to. If you remove the stock it will often take several clips for everything to settle in so the rifle will shoot consistently again.

03-13-2010, 9:56 AM
Never mind. WD-40, some time, a little heat, and a lot of torque finally broke it free.

03-13-2010, 10:40 AM
The gas lock is really tight to get back on.
I noticed as I was disassembling/assembling the rifle that it is a mixture of SA, HRA, and WRA parts. Most of the parts are SA though.

Cleaning it up was not as difficult as I anticipated. It took about 2.5 hours to get it apart, clean the grease off the metal parts, and use a heat gone on the wood parts to get the grease off.

I need to get the tung oil and linseed oil to finish the stock and then I'll post a couple of pictures.

03-13-2010, 11:04 AM
I'm a pure tung oil fan. Linseed takes eons to dry completely.

Astig Boy
03-14-2010, 10:45 PM
I like raw linseed over BLO and Tung Oil. It takes time to dry, but how many of you handle or shoot your guns that often anyways? Mine sit for awhile. RLO has been used for years by the military...they sure didn't have a drying issue when they used RLO every chance they could to maintain their wood stocks. Also, being these are going on C&R rifles, most want the aged look, or to have the wood age properly...you can not get that with BLO and most Tung Oils because they contain sealers. Oxidation needs to happen, which means the wood needs to breath. This can not happen with oils that contain sealers as it locks out oxidation...so a patina or aged color will never develop. Collectors have reported slight patina and darkening(to a black-reddish) developing within a year of using RLO.

Another source for Raw Linseed Oil is at your local art store or hobby shop(Michaels). Oil painters mix RLO with their paints to keep them from drying out.

03-15-2010, 12:00 AM
Another source for Raw Linseed Oil is at your local art store or hobby shop(Michaels). Oil painters mix RLO with their paints to keep them from drying out.

The linseed oil you find at an art store is "Refined" linseed oil that has had the proteins removed. This is done to prevent the paints from yellowing over time.

Its that "yellowing" process that gives our stocks that nice red color we love. Refined linseed oil is the same as boiled just missing the metalic dyers.

You want cold pressed RAW linseed or Flax oil.

Astig Boy
03-17-2010, 1:55 PM
The linseed oil you find at an art store is "Refined" linseed oil that has had the proteins removed. This is done to prevent the paints from yellowing over time.

Its that "yellowing" process that gives our stocks that nice red color we love. Refined linseed oil is the same as boiled just missing the metalic dyers.

You want cold pressed RAW linseed or Flax oil.

Thanks for the clarification. ;) I have seen the yellow linseed oil at Michaels. Some look thicker then others as well.

I use Sunnyside RLO. Found it at Marshall's Industrial Hardware here in San Diego.

03-18-2010, 4:51 PM
It might not hurt to sun-cook the wood in a plastic bag a couple more times. I have had stocks bleed grease for an extended period of time. The raw linseed oil tends to go in deep and help to desolve the old grease. That's not a bad thing -- better out than in.

Sweet score , BTW.