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View Full Version : Has anyone used Duracoat, do it yourself?


CalGunsNoob
01-13-2006, 2:20 PM
Have any of you used these Duracoat, do it yourself kits?

How did it turn out?

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/

Ironballs
01-13-2006, 2:53 PM
looking for a while at this stuff/kit- those who have got it speak highly of it...

i went so far as to look at airbrushes/compressors, but decided to push it off to 07 maybe, and just build some toys for now...

does look like good stuff, but not super cheap to do it yourself even...

johndoe
01-13-2006, 3:28 PM
I'm trying to decide between the Duracoat and Norrell's

http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/default.asp

Josh
01-13-2006, 3:57 PM
ive used both and they are both good products.

The only real difference I see is in application, the norells uses heat to set and the duracoat is an epoxy.

I use duarcoat when I cant fit somthing into the oven.

Blue
01-13-2006, 6:26 PM
I did my 1919 with it, looks real nice and pretty easy to shoot. Use an airbrush, it'll save you a ton of duracoat because there's little overspray.

DV8
01-13-2006, 6:32 PM
I've used it on a couple of beatup 1911s I fixed up. Its great stuff. Bought a cheapo Testors airbrush at Walmart to apply, worked like a charm. Just remember to prep your surface properly as thats the key to a great looking, durable finish.

I have heard some say that Norrell's is better, so next time I'm going to try it out...

Guinness
01-13-2006, 7:17 PM
I did my FAL with outstanding results the very first attemp...

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c269/Guinness71/Duracoat1.jpg

I'd recommend it to anyone.. once you start you'll wanna Dura Coat everything! :D

Turbinator
01-13-2006, 7:17 PM
I've used it on a couple of beatup 1911s I fixed up. Its great stuff. Bought a cheapo Testors airbrush at Walmart to apply, worked like a charm. Just remember to prep your surface properly as thats the key to a great looking, durable finish.


So to power the airbrush, you need an air compressor, right? What sort of PSI do you need?

Turby

TonyM
01-13-2006, 7:18 PM
Haven't used Duracoat, but I have used Norrell's. I like the results alot, I have done 6 Lower recievers with MolyResin and only used about 1/4 of the 8 ounce bottle. It goes a long way out of the airbrush. I'm thinking about stripping down my Sig P220 this weekend and refinishing it. I got it used, fired very little but alot of holster wear.

TonyM
01-13-2006, 7:19 PM
So to power the airbrush, you need an air compressor, right? What sort of PSI do you need?

Turby

Either a compressor at ~30-40 psi, or the canned air for airbrushes works.

Turbinator
01-13-2006, 7:25 PM
Either a compressor at ~30-40 psi, or the canned air for airbrushes works.

No way! So conceivably if I pumped some container up with a tire pump, I could do this at home.. cool.. or maybe not..

Turby

TonyM
01-13-2006, 7:29 PM
No way! So conceivably if I pumped some container up with a tire pump, I could do this at home.. cool.. or maybe not..

Turby

Badger makes a fitting that fits on a valvestem, so you could inflate a spare tire and run from it.

A spare tire would keep you over 30psi for a LONG, LONG time. I have the connection for my compressor, but to make it easy to do in the back yard I got a good deal on a lot of 8 of the canned "Propel" on ebay.

About 1/2 way down:
http://www.badger-airbrush.com/access2.htm

Guinness
01-13-2006, 8:20 PM
The only problem I had with the "canned" air was it freezing up on me.. But I used the canned air to do the FAL in the pic..

Gunner1
01-13-2006, 9:21 PM
I have used duracoat to do my Superior lower and an old Bushmaster upper. turned out great. I just used the kit from Lauer that came with a cheapo airbrush . For $65.00 it came with airbrush,canned airsupply, demo dvd and enough Duracoat to paint the upper,lower and a Norinco 870 clone shotgun. turned out great.

Gunner

DV8
01-14-2006, 4:23 AM
So to power the airbrush, you need an air compressor, right? What sort of PSI do you need?

Turby
30 - 40 sounds about right, and yes a compressor. You could use the canned stuff, but I wanted a constant pressure as I read somewhere that as you deplete the canned air the duracoat tends to splutter out. I didnt want to reblast all over again, so I stuck with the compressor.

I practiced with water on a piece of grey cardboard to check how different psi and nozzle adjustment affected spray pattern. Once I had what I wanted, I kept everything there and it turned out ok.

**BTW, the Testors airbrush at Walmart was $20. Chinese knockoff w/ 1 can of propellant was $10.00 at Harbor Freight at the time (was on sale).

mr2.0
01-14-2006, 10:16 PM
Do you guy know what store in Orange County that I might able pick up a can of Duracoat

Guinness
01-15-2006, 11:43 AM
I ordered mine direct from http://www.lauerweaponry.com (http://www.lauerweaponry.com/) arrived in only a few days.

olegk
01-22-2007, 10:33 AM
I ordered mine direct from http://www.lauerweaponry.com (http://www.lauerweaponry.com/) arrived in only a few days.
The y charge hazamat fee for shipment. $13.95 for 4 oz botle.

Prc329
01-22-2007, 12:57 PM
I've never used duracoat but I have used brownells guncoat and it worked out great. Very easy to apply.

olegk
01-22-2007, 1:01 PM
Do you guy know what store in Orange County that I might able pick up a can of Duracoat
Group buy may be?
I am interested in 4 oz of paint only. We can combine shipment and save on hazamat fee.

jemaddux
01-22-2007, 1:13 PM
Do you guy know what store in Orange County that I might able pick up a can of Duracoat


It really doesn't come in a can. You buy it by the bottle size with hardener. You can get it in sizes 4oz and up.

I would say to stay away from the canned air. It does freeze and the air flow changes as the can gets cold. If you use a compressor make sure you use and filter to take out the water from the air (you can get a cheeper one at harbor freight). Later on it can cause you some problems.

One of the biggest things when using Duracoat it to let it really set. I have an oven I bake the paints in but I do this a couple times a week. If your shooting something small like a handgun you can but it in your oven for a short time at the lowest setting. Make sure you have all the oil off the firearm also. If you are shooting something larger give it a good few days before trying to put it back together. When shooting a camo, using multi color layers, be sure to give a good curing time between coats and use a pair of laytex gloves to handle the firearm at all (OILS ON YOUR HANDS CAN SCREW YOU UP). Also make sure you do use their reducer. all companies, house of colors, autotex, duracoat and on and on all make a reducer designed to work with their own product.

If you want to do a few guns and are looking for the better pricing on airbrushes look up Coast Airbrush down in Anaheim California. They pretty much have the best pricing and will really help you out with any questions. Or you can PM me if your having any problems. I have been airbrushing for about 25 years now so I think I might have learned one or two things to help out.

And just to let you know, I do orders about once every other week, I just did mine this morning, but if you want order and cut down a little on shipping let me know and I will place the order with mine.

proraptor
01-22-2007, 1:22 PM
Ive been trying to decide which one of those coating to use on my AK47....I think I am going to go duracoat

olegk
01-22-2007, 1:23 PM
When you paint receiver (AK) do it with thin layers. Do touch-up for first 3-4 layers

Pryde
01-22-2007, 2:05 PM
If you want to get Duracoat on the cheap, walk into any Sherwin Williams and ask for POLANE. It is the exact same product, there have been many threads about this on the FALfiles and it has been shown that Duracoat is Polane that has been repackaged and marked up. I have used both on my guns and I can attest that they are one and the same personally. It should cost you less than 20 bucks for a good amount of it (enough for 5-10 rifles).

That being said, Duracoat/Polane is a good product that holds up extremely well as long as the surface is WELL PREPPED. If you aren't gonna bead blast of parkerize what you are duracoating beforehand, forget about it because it will chip or rub off, you might as well be spraypainting it. Do not use compressed air, it will lead to an uneven finish because as the air gets colder in the can the Duracoat will spray on thicker than at the beginning. Minor variations in temperature can lead to minor variation in spray thickness.

The only flaw I see in properly applied Durcoat/Polane is that it will not hold up to extreme heat, I had some burn off my barrel when I was rapid firing last months. From what I read, this is not uncommon.

jumbopanda
01-22-2007, 2:11 PM
One of the advantages of Duracoat over bake on finishes is that Duracoat is thick and covers up scratches very well. Good for AK builds since you're bound to scuff up the receiver.

just4fun63
01-22-2007, 3:01 PM
If you want to get Duracoat on the cheap, walk into any Sherwin Williams and ask for POLANE. It is the exact same product, there have been many threads about this on the FALfiles and it has been shown that Duracoat is Polane that has been repackaged and marked up. I have used both on my guns and I can attest that they are one and the same personally. It should cost you less than 20 bucks for a good amount of it (enough for 5-10 rifles).

That being said, Duracoat/Polane is a good product that holds up extremely well as long as the surface is WELL PREPPED. If you aren't gonna bead blast of parkerize what you are duracoating beforehand, forget about it because it will chip or rub off, you might as well be spraypainting it. Do not use compressed air, it will lead to an uneven finish because as the air gets colder in the can the Duracoat will spray on thicker than at the beginning. Minor variations in temperature can lead to minor variation in spray thickness.

The only flaw I see in properly applied Durcoat/Polane is that it will not hold up to extreme heat, I had some burn off my barrel when I was rapid firing last months. From what I read, this is not uncommon.

Two questions about the POLANE is it available in all the colors duracoat has? and are you saying you must beadblast to get a good durable finish?

olegk
01-22-2007, 4:11 PM
If you want to get Duracoat on the cheap, walk into any Sherwin Williams and ask for POLANE. It is the exact same product, there have been many threads about this on the FALfiles and it has been shown that Duracoat is Polane that has been repackaged and marked up. I have used both on my guns and I can attest that they are one and the same personally. It should cost you less than 20 bucks for a good amount of it (enough for 5-10 rifles).

.


Called Following locations:
(don't care it)
22500 Muirlands Blvd Ste C
Lake Forest, CA 92630-6309
(949)707-1207
(white gloss only)
2941A N Hesperian St
Santa Ana, CA 92706-1148
(714)547-3366

proraptor
01-22-2007, 4:29 PM
how do you pronounce polane?

SmokinGun
01-22-2007, 5:20 PM
I used Dupli-Color w/ceramic 1200 deg engine paint on my AK builds and it seems to be holding up pretty well and its cheap...$6.00 for a can. I have also heard that MolyResin works pretty good.

jumbopanda
01-22-2007, 6:00 PM
That being said, Duracoat/Polane is a good product that holds up extremely well as long as the surface is WELL PREPPED. If you aren't gonna bead blast of parkerize what you are duracoating beforehand, forget about it because it will chip or rub off, you might as well be spraypainting it.

Been there, done that. :p

"Oops, a piece of tape got stuck to my rifle, I'll just remove it...*rip*...DAMNIT!"

Wulf
01-22-2007, 6:50 PM
Do not use compressed air, it will lead to an uneven finish because as the air gets colder in the can the Duracoat will spray on thicker than at the beginning.

Could you put the can in a big stock pot of warm water to buffer the temperature long enough to put down even coats?

jemaddux
01-22-2007, 6:54 PM
Could you put the can in a big stock pot of warm water to buffer the temperature long enough to put down even coats?


No, it will still freeze in the line. If you want to do something for a temp set up, find a friend with a scuba tank and put a pressure gauge on the first stage. That was how I started with airbrushing. Plus it gets pretty costly, those tanks don't last long.

Rugerdaddy
01-22-2007, 8:31 PM
I'm planning on Duracoating my "CAL-15" build. The Lauer website states "Simply clean and degrease the surface prior to application." and they recommend Trustrip degreaser. Is that sufficient prior to spraying? I am only painting the stock, MM grip, and hand grip. No metal parts. Thanks.

jumbopanda
01-22-2007, 8:33 PM
I'm planning on Duracoating my "CAL-15" build. The Lauer website states "Simply clean and degrease the surface prior to application." and they recommend Trustrip degreaser. Is that sufficient prior to spraying? I am only painting the stock, MM grip, and hand grip. No metal parts. Thanks.

I think you will be okay. I applied it to my entire AR without blasting, and it peeled off the metal, but held onto the plastic just fine.

proraptor
01-22-2007, 10:33 PM
No, it will still freeze in the line. If you want to do something for a temp set up, find a friend with a scuba tank and put a pressure gauge on the first stage. That was how I started with airbrushing. Plus it gets pretty costly, those tanks don't last long.

I have 2 scuba tanks....How would I attach the airbrush to one?

Rugerdaddy
01-22-2007, 10:39 PM
I have 2 scuba tanks....How would I attach the airbrush to one?

I don't think you can apply Duracoat under water! :D

proraptor
01-22-2007, 11:23 PM
Lol!

rorschach
01-22-2007, 11:41 PM
Could you put the can in a big stock pot of warm water to buffer the temperature long enough to put down even coats?

Thats exactly what I did with the Badger canned air and it worked out OK.

It will eventually freeze, so keep extra HOT water handy. It's a PITA, but doable.

Pryde
01-23-2007, 6:34 AM
It works "OK" with canned air but as previously mentioned by another poster, you must keep the can submerged in hot water and change it out for more hot water constantly because the cold can will cool the water. The best way to get a really nice even coat is using an air compressor.

I started out with compressed air, but all my newest duracoat projects have been done with a compressor. After comparing, wow what a difference, the canned air job looks like crap compared to the compressor.

Lauer states that "blah blah all you have to do is degrease and clean" Its bull, unless you blast it or park it first, it will not stick and it will chip plastic should be fine if you sand it a little first. If you blast do not beadblast, because it will leave the surface shiny and less adhesive, I would recommend aluminum grit.

Despite its flaws, I still like duracoat a lot. As a previous poster said, it is superior to gunkote because it doesn't scratch as easily. Another reason why I like duracoat more because it does not have to be shiny and reflective like gunkote is. The shine given off by your duracoat can be adjusted based on the ratio of duracoat:hardener that you use.

It is pronounced "Poe-Layne". Polane can be ordered online MUCH cheaper than duracoat, I bought mine from the sherwin williams in Huntington Beach. I got the last of the black, they don't typically carry it on hand but you can have them order it for you and then pick it up, they said that they can order it in any color you want.

Rugerdaddy
01-23-2007, 8:09 AM
The best way to get a really nice even coat is using an air compressor.

...plastic should be fine if you sand it a little first.

Good. I will get a water filter for my compressor, sand the plastic, degrease, then Duracoat. Do you think it's advisable to bake the plastic parts at about 110 degrees? Or, might I damage the plastic?

Pryde
01-23-2007, 2:58 PM
Good. I will get a water filter for my compressor, sand the plastic, degrease, then Duracoat. Do you think it's advisable to bake the plastic parts at about 110 degrees? Or, might I damage the plastic?

Duracoat does not need to be baked, if you let it sit for a couple weeks and air cure, it should be tough as nails. Heat is a pain in the ***** to do, and duracoat adheres pretty well to plastic as it is. I have read of people melting furniture, putting it in the oven to gunkote it so I wouldn't risk it.

jumbopanda
01-23-2007, 3:03 PM
So who here has actually bought a big tub of the stuff from Sherwin Williams?

Rugerdaddy
01-23-2007, 4:35 PM
Duracoat does not need to be baked, if you let it sit for a couple weeks and air cure, it should be tough as nails. Heat is a pain in the ***** to do, and duracoat adheres pretty well to plastic as it is. I have read of people melting furniture, putting it in the oven to gunkote it so I wouldn't risk it.


Got it. Thanks!

Pryde
01-23-2007, 6:10 PM
So who here has actually bought a big tub of the stuff from Sherwin Williams?

Me, check my post from yesterday.