View Full Version : Fab 10 comes through

12-16-2005, 4:39 PM
Well, it was a bit of a surprise, for sure. Sitting at work, the phone rings, and the voice is familiar, but I can't quite place it - turns out it's Michael from Shoeless, whom I talked to about my mis-machined Fab 10 lower some time back, as I mentioned in this thread: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=171

He was wondering why he never heard back from me, and I told him I'd decided to drop the whole issue, since it was working for me, and I didn't want to bother with disassembling it, shipping it, etc. He emphasized that he wanted to make it right, and wanted to know how I wanted to work it.

Anyhow, long story short, we talked for a while, and ended up reaching a mutually agreeable conclusion - he sold me another one at a discount. He was willing to replace my other one with a duplicate SN, but I knew he'd scrap it, and I've been thinking about building my spare upper and buttstock into another rifle anyway, so this worked out pretty well for both of us.

I still had to transfer it, through Irvington Arms (great experience with them), so that ate up some of the cost savings, but what the heck. I also got one of their pull-ring takedown pins, and they threw in a bottle of Eezox on top of it.

Here's what I put together:


I had a spare JT 16" HBAR A3 upper and an RRA 6 position collapsible stock, so I ordered up an RRA lower kit and slapped it all together. The varmint version I built first is too heavy and the A2 buttstock is too long for my son, so this is a better bet for the kids to shoot.

Everything was tighter than my first build on an early Fab 10, using a complete JT kit. The roll pins were very tight, and the takedown pin is still pretty tight, but that's probably a good thing over the life of the gun.

I'm not sure if I like the bolt catch version better or not, but I haven't taken it out yet, so I'll have a better idea over the next week or so.

Here's the first one I built up - it'll be interesting to compare the accuracy of the varmint configuration against the HBAR.


Now, it's a matter of scoping them up and seeing how they'll do off the sandbags.


12-16-2005, 4:47 PM
WHEW! very nice indeed. Congrats :) Do you have any movement between the upper and lower when using that pull pin?

12-16-2005, 5:50 PM
When I ordered mine earlier this year I wanted it bare to build myself. My dealer was told they stop shipping them that why because to many came back with owner caused problems. When I got mine the disconnector had a bur that would'nt let it reset. I was going to do the trigger work anyway but I found it ironic that they shipped it that way when they wouldn't sell it bare thinking I would have problems with the trigger if I did it my self.

12-17-2005, 1:01 PM
No movement at all between the lower and upper. The pin is very tight - a bit too tight. It takes quite a bit of oomph to pull it out at first. I may need to go in and polish something up, but I need to figure out what first.

The pin pulls easily in the lower alone, though it's still tight.

The same upper works smoothly on my other Fab 10, using either a hardware store clevis pin or the Brownell's push-pin (http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=122&highlight=brownell%27s).

As I look closer, I see that the upper is slightly off-axis as I close it, and the take-down pin block on the upper hits one side slightly as it closes, causing it to torque in slightly. This could cause binding by having the take-down pin holes in the upper and lower to be slightly off axis from each other.

This could be caused by either the upper or the lower, so I'll make some measurements, swap the other upper in, and see what it looks like.