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grnsierra01
01-02-2010, 2:59 PM
I need some help guys. I have a Springfield 1911 A1 that has about 600-700 rounds through it and it has always had a slight jamming problem, but today i put about 120 rounds through it and it was getting ridiculous. I cleaned it three times while at the range today and it would help a little but not much.

I was trying to find out what ammo it liked best, so I put several mags of Winchester 230 gr FMJ whitebox, Remington UMC, Blazer steel rounds and just a few 185 gr Winchester flat nose FMJ's through it. They all jammed a lot, but the Blazer steel rounds had the least number of jams. By jams, i mean that it does not extract the spent shell.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for any help!

xounlistedxox
01-02-2010, 3:01 PM
Sounds like the extractor might be bent, broken, or in need of tuning.

And by "several clips" you probably meant "several magazines":D

brassburnz
01-02-2010, 3:16 PM
Failures to extract with a 1911 could be related to the shooter. If you limp wrist your gun, it will not cycle properly resulting in failures to extract and eject.

grnsierra01
01-02-2010, 3:21 PM
i am pretty sure that i don't "limp wrist" it, and I i looked at the ejector and at least what is visible from the top of the slide it looks intact and functional.

i might take it by my local shop and see if the gunsmith can find something.

thanks for the help!

xounlistedxox
01-02-2010, 3:23 PM
Even if the extractor is in tact it could be worn, or not tuned properly, so taking it to a gunsmith would be a good first step if he knows about 1911's.

Have you changed the barrel on this 1911? The only other thing I could think of would be that the chamber is too tight.

grnsierra01
01-02-2010, 3:27 PM
No, it is the original barrel. Now that you mention it, I bought some Magtech hollow points and they would not eject at all and it was extremely hard to eject a round that had not been spent...i mean really hard! I bring this up because they had a slight bulge that outlined the bullet on each case.

How do you fix a "tight chamber"? Can it be milled out or does this mean a new barrel is in my future?

vta
01-02-2010, 3:29 PM
search youtube for tunning 1911 extractor. there are some videos showing you what a properly tuned extractor should look like. Have you narrowed it down to extraction failures nd not ejection failures? What does the failure look like? Stovepipe?

Exposed
01-02-2010, 3:31 PM
What mags are you using? Try different mags, Chip McCormicks, Wilson Combat, and Novak mags are what I use. 1911s are very dependent on the types of mags they use.

Edit: Not extracting could also be related to weak springs. Try Wolff springs. Again, thats what I use.

http://www.gunsprings.com/

grnsierra01
01-02-2010, 3:32 PM
it has never been modified, but i will have to check into the warranty. i have had it for a little over three years and i bought it from a guy that bought it new but never fired a round.

vta
01-02-2010, 3:33 PM
No, it is the original barrel. Now that you mention it, I bought some Magtech hollow points and they would not eject at all and it was extremely hard to eject a round that had not been spent...i mean really hard! I bring this up because they had a slight bulge that outlined the bullet on each case.

How do you fix a "tight chamber"? Can it be milled out or does this mean a new barrel is in my future?

ummm. I would start with hand cycling snap caps a handful of times a day between now until you hit the range again. Keep an eye on the snap cap to see if it develops a lot of wear and you will start to learn where the problem might be.

it's not unusual for a dirty gun to have this kinda problem worsen as time goes on since you are getting more and more build up in the chamber as you shoot more. Really soak that chamber with something like CLP next time you clean it. I think those blazer rounds are actually aluminum. They tend to expand more than brass so it would make more sense if those have higher fte issues. Steel case ammo on the other hand do not expand as much as brass so it should have less issues with a tight chamber.

rero360
01-02-2010, 3:33 PM
Before you spend your money on a smith, you can try to tune it yourself if you feel confident enough. Its pretty easy actually, all you do is remove the extractor and you'll see that its kind of bent in the center, there should be a mark on it where they hit it with a flame. What you do next is bend it alittle bit more, don't need to hulk out on it, just a lil bit will do.

When you reenstall it, it should feel a bit more snug going in, this means you did it right. Then reassemble it pistol and go shoot some rounds.

grnsierra01
01-02-2010, 3:35 PM
I used the factory 7 round mags, a couple of Wilso Combats and a couple of Pro Mags. They all had the same problem and i used different ammo in each mag to try to eliminate the mags as the problem.

Ducman
01-02-2010, 3:52 PM
what kind of ammo do you use? I heard somewhere (forgot w/c forum) that SA are a bit finnicky when it comes to hollowpoints. Don't have first hand experience, too lazy to do search.

paladin4415
01-02-2010, 4:21 PM
If it is a failure to extract the spent casing, then it is most likely your EXTRACTOR. It probably just needs to be tuned.
Do you know how to check a 1911 extractor for proper function?
Have you ever removed yours for cleaning?

ojisan
01-02-2010, 4:44 PM
1911s should always have rounds fed into the chamber from the magazine.
Placing a round in the chamber and then dropping the slide will bend or break the extractor after a few times.
The extractor should be bent to have just enough tension so it will hold a loaded round of ammo against the breech face.
This is checked with the slide off the frame.
It should take 2-3 pounds of pressure to slide the round under the extractor.
Yes, the chamber should be checked for build up of grunge, but having it reamed oversize is not usually the fix, especially if it has worked fine in the past.

TZL
01-02-2010, 4:50 PM
Btw, blazer are aluminum, not steel

va_dinger
01-02-2010, 4:54 PM
The number one reliability problem that Iíve seen with 1911ís is lack of lubrication. If you attend a Vickers Tactical class and especially his 1911 Operators class you will learn this first hand.

I would find a mag/ammo combination that it likes and then lube it very heavily.

Jonathan Doe
01-02-2010, 4:59 PM
If you are in LA area, maybe I can take a look for you.

retired
01-02-2010, 5:08 PM
If you are in LA area, maybe I can take a look for you.

To the OP, if you are able to take him up on this, you should. It is a very generous offer as he works with firearms extensively for his dept.:thumbsup:

ocspeedracer
01-02-2010, 5:19 PM
imo it's probably the extractor. that stinks, but since it's only that it's not extracting it should be a winner after you get it worked out.

grnsierra01
01-02-2010, 5:49 PM
va dinger, honestly, i would say that if anything i have always over lubricated this thing. however, i have never had any problems with guming or anything else.

topgun7, thanks for the offer, but i live outside of Stockton in the foothills of the Sierras.

i tried rero36's suggestion and tried to bend it slightly. i will try it next week and see what happens. thanks for all the advice. you guys have been very helpful.

xounlistedxox
01-02-2010, 6:00 PM
Also make sure to clean your extractor and the channel it goes in really well and lubricate it at the wear points.
A good lubricant will aid in the 1911's function as well. Don't use just break free clp, or stuff like rem oil. Use some good stuff like fp10, weaponshield, tw25b, milcomm 2500, slip 2000, tetra, g96, gun butter, militec, super lube etc. I use a combination of liquid lubricant and grease when cleaning/lubricating my 1911's and they all function flawlessly. If Larry Vickers says that there is no such thing as over lubricating a 1911 I believe him. Run it sloppy wet :43:

grnsierra01
01-02-2010, 6:43 PM
Also make sure to clean your extractor and the channel it goes in really well and lubricate it at the wear points.
A good lubricant will aid in the 1911's function as well. Don't use just break free clp, or stuff like rem oil. Use some good stuff like fp10, weaponshield, tw25b, milcomm 2500, slip 2000, tetra, g96, gun butter, militec, super lube etc. I use a combination of liquid lubricant and grease when cleaning/lubricating my 1911's and they all function flawlessly. If Larry Vickers says that there is no such thing as over lubricating a 1911 I believe him. Run it sloppy wet :43:

You gotta love "sloppy wet"! I'll get some better lubricant because I have been using rem oil and go from there.

Thanks again!

El Gato
01-02-2010, 6:58 PM
I need some help guys. I have a Springfield 1911 A1 that has about 600-700 rounds through it and it has always had a slight jamming problem, but today i put about 120 rounds through it and it was getting ridiculous. I cleaned it three times while at the range today and it would help a little but not much.

I was trying to find out what ammo it liked best, so I put several mags of Winchester 230 gr FMJ whitebox, Remington UMC, Blazer steel rounds and just a few 185 gr Winchester flat nose FMJ's through it. They all jammed a lot, but the Blazer steel rounds had the least number of jams. By jams, i mean that it does not extract the spent shell.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for any help!

used to have one that jammed when I shot speer ball... threw away the stupid guide rod and put the gun back the way JMB designed it and it has run fine since... stupid guide rod...:D

Crazed_SS
01-02-2010, 7:24 PM
I need some help guys. I have a Springfield 1911 A1 that has about 600-700 rounds through it and it has always had a slight jamming problem, but today i put about 120 rounds through it and it was getting ridiculous. I cleaned it three times while at the range today and it would help a little but not much.

I was trying to find out what ammo it liked best, so I put several mags of Winchester 230 gr FMJ whitebox, Remington UMC, Blazer steel rounds and just a few 185 gr Winchester flat nose FMJ's through it. They all jammed a lot, but the Blazer steel rounds had the least number of jams. By jams, i mean that it does not extract the spent shell.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for any help!

Ideally it should shoot all that stuff with no problem. I've put all kinds of ammo through my SA 1911 with no problem. Wolf, Blazer Brass and Aluminum, Remington, WWB FMJ 230gr and 180gr, Hydrashocks, Magtech FMJ, Remington JHP, etc, etc

If you're having issues, call SA and send it in for warranty. It should have a lifetime warranty.

Black Majik
01-04-2010, 8:54 AM
It sounds like you don't have enough tension on the extractor.

Field strip your 1911. Take the barrel, bushing, recoil spring assembly out of the gun with extractor and firing pin, and firing pin stop still in the slide, take a live .45 ACP round and slip it under the extractor. The extractor should have enough tension to hold the round. If it does, jiggle the slide up and down to see if the round falls out. If it does (as I'm suspecting), you just need to bend the extractor more to give it more tension.

xxdabroxx
01-04-2010, 11:13 AM
It sounds like you don't have enough tension on the extractor.

Field strip your 1911. Take the barrel, bushing, recoil spring assembly out of the gun with extractor and firing pin, and firing pin stop still in the slide, take a live .45 ACP round and slip it under the extractor. The extractor should have enough tension to hold the round. If it does, jiggle the slide up and down to see if the round falls out. If it does (as I'm suspecting), you just need to bend the extractor more to give it more tension.

THIS^

tbhracing
01-04-2010, 5:33 PM
I see your problem, its a 1911.

FeuerFrei
01-04-2010, 6:26 PM
va_dinger has it right! IMO.

Good ammo, good mags, lube up...the pistol that is.
My experience has shown me that 9 out of 10 times this cures most jamming problems on any semi-auto firearm.
Good luck and keep at it!

sammy
01-04-2010, 7:21 PM
A quick question. Are you using grease or similar product for the slide rails? Grease worked great on my Kimber but stopped my Wilson and Baer's from functioning properly. After changing to lighter lubes the problems dissapeared.

JTROKS
01-04-2010, 7:21 PM
If the pistol wasn't muck with by the original buyer then the timing should be fine, but there are instances where the link might be a little long messing up the timing. It could be a dirty chamber or there may just be some burrs in the chamber that needs polishing.

grnsierra01
01-04-2010, 8:51 PM
Sammy, I was using Remoil, but now I have done just about everything everyone has said on here, so I will go this weekend and try it out.

I will get back once i have had a chance to test her out again.

Thanks!

rero360
01-17-2010, 7:35 PM
Update on the pistol?

sammy
01-17-2010, 7:52 PM
Sammy, I was using Remoil, but now I have done just about everything everyone has said on here, so I will go this weekend and try it out.

I will get back once i have had a chance to test her out again.

Thanks!

Remoil is not a lube. I had a buddy make the mistake of using remoil on his Sig 226. He only had about 500 rounds through it but the wear on the barrel and frame was that of a gun that had 10,000+. Since you are having failures I would use an oil that is is as light as possible as not to slow the slide down.

JTROKS
01-17-2010, 7:55 PM
Remoil is not a lube. I had a buddy make the mistake of using remoil on his Sig 226. He only had about 500 rounds through it but the wear on the barrel and frame was that of a gun that had 10,000+. Since you are having failures I would use an oil that is is as light as possible as not to slow the slide down.

It's Rem Bore that should not be used as a lubricant because of its' abrasiveness. Rem Oil should be fine for lubing moving parts.

demo
01-17-2010, 8:09 PM
You gotta love "sloppy wet"! I'll get some better lubricant because I have been using rem oil and go from there.

Thanks again!

1. REM oil is too thin for the rails of my Stainless Springfield. mine worked a lot better once I switched to real oil. moble1 10-30 for example. or Hope gun oil.

2. Springfield warranty is lifetime of the firearm and they don't care if you are the original owner or not.

Katana
01-17-2010, 11:37 PM
RemOil was specifically designed for the 870 trigger group because the long term use of some of the older oils would form a gummy residue. As a result, in some severe cases the hammer wouldn't drop when the trigger was pulled—then all it would take is a bump to set it off.

I use RemOil on my revolvers. It's also an excellent lock oil (dead bolts, lock sets, pad locks, etc,).

However, as noted below by Larry Vickers—it is not an ideal lubricant for high friction, rapidly moving parts.

"...in my experience the thin light lubes like WD40 and RemOil are to be avoided. They will provide a rust barrier and that is about it; they are not suitable for moving parts lubricant."

http://vickerstactical.com/tactical-tips/weapon-lubrication/

Sheldon
01-18-2010, 2:21 AM
I agree with the guys thinking your extractor tension is too light or the extractor is shaped wrong. With the slide off the pistol you should be able to slide a round into the extractor with just a few pounds of pressure and it should hold the round in place. If there is no tension the case it likely to fall out of position as the slide is recoiling after being fired and not eject correctly. If the tension is correct but the bevel in the extractor hook is not shaped right and the round is trying to spring out of the extractor you will get the same symptom.

1SOCALGUNNER
01-18-2010, 3:33 AM
Failures to extract with a 1911 could be related to the shooter. If you limp wrist your gun, it will not cycle properly resulting in failures to extract and eject.


That makes sense since the slide would ride without much force/momentum, but I think its a myth... Ive tried limp wristing a 1911a1 and a sig P226 to coax a problem, but it never happened.....

JTROKS
01-18-2010, 4:38 AM
That makes sense since the slide would ride without much force/momentum, but I think its a myth... Ive tried limp wristing a 1911a1 and a sig P226 to coax a problem, but it never happened.....

If you're 1911 has an old beat up recoil spring it won't happen. Install an extra power recoil spring and you'll see.

vega
01-18-2010, 10:01 AM
.... and I i looked at the ejector and at least what is visible from the top of the slide it looks intact and functional.....
That has nothing to do with extraction.
Good luck.