View Full Version : S&W 66
12-31-2009, 5:41 PM
I've heard of issues concerning these revolvers and certain type of Magnum rounds. I have a 66-7 and shoot approximately 1 38 spl round for every 2 357. Should I ease off the magnums and keep shooting 38s? Or just keep on doing what I've been doing?
12-31-2009, 5:47 PM
The problem was cracking of the forcing cone at it's lower area where it is thinnest.
This mostly occurred with 125g high velocity ammo which had powder still burning as the bullet entered the forcing cone....the short 125 g bullets allowed hot burning gas to leak out and cut at the forcing cone much more than longer 140-158 gr bullets.
Keep the hot-rod 110-125gr JHPs for home defense and occasional sight in practice.
Shoot the heaver 140-158g bulleted .357 mags for general use.
12-31-2009, 5:58 PM
The 66 is merely the stainless version of the model 19. The 19 was developed from the model 10 .38 Special. The idea behind the 19 was a law enforcement
sidearm, that was more comfortable to carry than the N-frames yet still offered the power of the .357 when needed. Most experts recommend using .38 special for target and practice with a few rounds of .357 to stay attuned to it. Saving the .357 for serious situations.
12-31-2009, 6:59 PM
I agree with ojisan on using the 158gr. 357 mag loads. You get a more complete burn resulting in less flame cutting of the top strap and damage to the forcing cone. I'd stick with the 38spl. lightest 125gr. as the main load you run through any K-frame for two reasons. Number one, it's a lot cheaper and number 2 is it doesn't hammer the firearm as much. Yes, you should practice with full house .357 mags just to ensure you know how the firearm is going to handle but, not at the ratio you're doing it now.
If you really like shooting the .357 mag, and who doesn't:p, you might think about getting an N frame, or maybe a Ruger. Rugers are so overbuilt I don't think it is possible to kill one using factory .357mag loads.
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