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View Full Version : Please help me, I think my revolver got damaged while shooting today!


Clayface
10-25-2009, 7:24 PM
Help!

http://mob969.photobucket.com/albums/ae173/Amor5ito/utf-8BSU1HMDAyNTYuanBn.jpg

What the hell happen? Is that normal? I have tried cleaning it and I just can't. It seems like the metal cylender is charred/Burned. At the range I shot factory loads and about 5 bullets/shots each time then took a 5 min break to let the barrel cool off. I shot about 40 bullets through it in about a 2 hour time frame and I just can't clean or remove those rings.

Do I have to send it to smith and wesson for repair or is that the normal on magnum rounds? By the way its a .460 and this is my first ever revolver . Any type of insight or tips as to what to do or help would be most appreciated.

randy
10-25-2009, 7:35 PM
Standard for a wheel gun.

RTE
10-25-2009, 7:36 PM
What are you cleaning it with?

Hoppe's 9 should get that off.

ojisan
10-25-2009, 7:38 PM
100% normal.
It is back blast coming from the forcing cone / rear barrel face that has embedded burnt powder and ash there on the front of the cylinder.

This can be tough to get off, sometimes you can't get it off unless you use a wire brush (only on a stainless gun).
Be careful with what you use if you try to remove it so you don't damage the finish.

bwiese
10-25-2009, 7:42 PM
Don't worry about it, esp for a shooter gun.

Clean it as well as you can using ordinary cleaners (Hoppes #9 etc.) Maybe a toothbrush or bronze brush helps.

More people ruin guns from overcleaning than undercleaning.

rivviepop
10-25-2009, 7:45 PM
If it's a 460 it's stainless, right? Use Hoppes and a brass wire brush and scrub at it -- also grab some "lead away" cloth and it'll take that off in short time. Usually I do a little of both depending on how ground up it is in there. Next time before you shoot rub a thin layer of oil on the front of the cylinder, it'll help make it easier to clean later (think like spraying PAM on cooking pan).

liketoshoot
10-25-2009, 7:50 PM
Hoppes #9 and a soaked piece of scotchbrite, (the softest one, I think it's green in color)
let it soak for about 10 minutes then rub lightly.

Spyder
10-25-2009, 8:18 PM
.460 for your first wheelgun? Hmmm... :D I like it!

BUT, and if you ignore my unasked for advice I won't be offended :), you're likely to develop bad habits from shooting such a kickass handcannon with not much other experience. I sure did, and it took me a while to break myself of bad habits.

Sweet. Now you have to show us pictures of the WHOLE gun!

El Gato
10-25-2009, 8:23 PM
soak it with Kroil.... let it sit... wipe with a cloth... repeat... the kroil will help alot but you SHOULD have some burning/flame marking whatever...a sign that the gun is working and you are using it and it isn't a safe queen...nicely done...shoot often, shoot well...

Greg-Dawg
10-25-2009, 8:24 PM
Send it to Smith.

wm97s
10-25-2009, 8:32 PM
.460 = mucho super-hot flame from the gap between the cylinder and the cone. Naturally, it is going to leave deposits and have effects on the finish.

Note: Don't put your finger near that gap when firing. Bad results.

RandyD
10-25-2009, 8:36 PM
Hoppes #9 and a soaked piece of scotchbrite, (the softest one, I think it's green in color)
let it soak for about 10 minutes then rub lightly.

+1 on the above recommendation if your handgun is stainless. If your handgun is blued then the scotchbrite pad may remove the bluing. I used scotchbrite pads and hoppes #9 on my stainless steel revolvers. It is normal as several others have stated. You still have to use some elbow grease but it will come off.

Stormfeather
10-25-2009, 8:39 PM
.460 = mucho super-hot flame from the gap between the cylinder and the cone. Naturally, it is going to leave deposits and have effects on the finish.

Note: Don't put your finger near that gap when firing. Bad results.

+1000! :eek:

Hk996
10-25-2009, 8:43 PM
If it is a stainless gun, use chrome polish, like what you would use for your car rims. I've done that for years on my stainless 686 and it works the best with the least effort.

Clayface
10-25-2009, 8:55 PM
I am going take you guys up on that hoppes #9 and the wire brush and if that doesn't work, a operator over at smith and wesson is going to get an earful. Can anyone enlighten me with a link or website that shows how to remove the cylender for easier cleaning ?

P.s , I have shot other guns and my flinch is no problem yeah it kicked like a mule but hot-Damm if it wasn't awesome.

Snapping Twig
10-25-2009, 9:09 PM
I am going take you guys up on that hoppes #9 and the wire brush and if that doesn't work, a operator over at smith and wesson is going to get an earful. Can anyone enlighten me with a link or website that shows how to remove the cylender for easier cleaning ?

P.s , I have shot other guns and my flinch is no problem yeah it kicked like a mule but hot-Damm if it wasn't awesome.


Don't call S&W, it's totally NORMAL!

Lead away cloth is all you need, but most people just use an old toothbrush or similar NON METAL brush and whatever cleaner, like Hoppes etc. and leave the carbon stain alone.

All revolvers do that all the time.

Cleaning the cylinder face for fouling while it's still in the crane is all you need to do.

Clean the forcing cone and top strap with that same toothbrush.

Spearo
10-25-2009, 9:29 PM
When my PC627 gets that dirty, I clean it with Hoppes, and a stainless steel brush.

El Gato
10-25-2009, 9:35 PM
I am going take you guys up on that hoppes #9 and the wire brush and if that doesn't work, a operator over at smith and wesson is going to get an earful. Can anyone enlighten me with a link or website that shows how to remove the cylender for easier cleaning ?

P.s , I have shot other guns and my flinch is no problem yeah it kicked like a mule but hot-Damm if it wasn't awesome.

sure just remove the screw... which isn't necessary... and the more your remove it, the more loose it gets and you will end up replacing the side screw (right side of the gun, forward of the trigger.. use a hollow ground bit of the correct size or you will bugger it up...)the gun is supposed to show the ring....it is normal....... but kroil will seep between the powder fouling and the metal and allow you to wipe most of it off with a soft cloth...hoppes dissolves it... kroil creeps between the fouling and the pores of the metal - it will go deeper... amazing how easy it is to clean...and no harsh polishes or scowering pads... which will change the finish on the gun...been in this biz for 30+ years ... kroil is amazing stuff...try it...

slik556
10-25-2009, 9:53 PM
Send it to Smith.

Man of so many words...... no wonder you have 4300+ post, it don't take long to type three words...:offtopic: Sorry

JBird33
10-25-2009, 9:55 PM
Clean it a little and put it away. Those marks are just gonna come back when you shoot it again.

Clayface
10-25-2009, 10:16 PM
But my other worry is that, when I held it up to the light there is a noticble cylender gap. I could slide a sheet of paper through the cylender and the barrel while the hammer was clocked back, which is alarming because it should be at its best lock up.Should there be any type of gap/spacing?

HowardW56
10-25-2009, 10:19 PM
Help!

http://mob969.photobucket.com/albums/ae173/Amor5ito/utf-8BSU1HMDAyNTYuanBn.jpg



Thats absolutely normal... Clean it with solvent and a parch, no scrubbing needed... That is a normal flame mark...

I have many S&W revolvers with discoloration...

762cavalier
10-25-2009, 10:28 PM
But my other worry is that, when I held it up to the light there is a noticble cylender gap. I could slide a sheet of paper through the cylender and the barrel while the hammer was clocked back, which is alarming because it should be at its best lock up.Should there be any type of gap/spacing?
The gap is normal too. Standard gap is .006. It allows the cylinder to rotate freely.

THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH YOUR GUN!!!!!!:cool2:

HowardW56
10-25-2009, 10:32 PM
The gap is normal too. Standard gap is .006. It allows the cylinder to rotate freely.

THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH YOU GUN!!!!!!:cool2:


DITTO!

That is absolutely normal...

Clayface
10-25-2009, 11:04 PM
Okay, inunderstand. I am going to stick to the hoppes solvent/cleaner and see how it goes.

zeb
10-25-2009, 11:14 PM
Use a Lead Remover Cloth (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4956/Product/LEAD_REMOVER_CLOTH)! It will wipe right off.

PutTogether
10-25-2009, 11:37 PM
Those rings aren't going anywhere. Nothing wrong with them. Don't take a wire brush to them, it is just what happens to revolvers.

B Strong
10-26-2009, 6:25 AM
Help!

http://mob969.photobucket.com/albums/ae173/Amor5ito/utf-8BSU1HMDAyNTYuanBn.jpg

What the hell happen? Is that normal? I have tried cleaning it and I just can't. It seems like the metal cylender is charred/Burned. At the range I shot factory loads and about 5 bullets/shots each time then took a 5 min break to let the barrel cool off. I shot about 40 bullets through it in about a 2 hour time frame and I just can't clean or remove those rings.

Do I have to send it to smith and wesson for repair or is that the normal on magnum rounds? By the way its a .460 and this is my first ever revolver . Any type of insight or tips as to what to do or help would be most appreciated.

It's normal powder residue - hit it with Powder Blast:

http://www.milestactical.com/breakfree-gc-16.html

And scrub with a stiff toothbrush.

Clayface
10-26-2009, 10:54 AM
Update: I called smith and wesson for cleaning tips only not for warranty help or saying my gun looked ugly and the rep there suggested a pencils "Eraser" he said that should do the trick. Anyone ever heard of that?

wash
10-26-2009, 11:12 AM
I doubt an eraser could hurt.

The thing to worry about is if you shoot a lot of .45 lc. Those same deposits will form in the cylinders and when you go to shoot .460 the case might stick or you might have some other failure.

This a common issue for people that shoot .38 special in a .357 magnum and other combinations like that.

Either stick to .460 or find a way to clean it off.

liketoshoot
10-26-2009, 11:12 AM
OK I'm about to tell you to sell your gun, it will never be as pretty as the day you took her home, it should be a little dirty (gun powder burns not scratches or gunk!), do not get obsessive on the cleaning or you may damage the finish. If you clean the bore and wipe it down after you use it you will be good to go.
Go to the range and shoot, have fun, be safe, enjoy!

rkt88edmo
10-26-2009, 11:31 AM
No cylinder gap and your revolver won't revolve very well :)

Wheelguns is different

gun toting monkeyboy
10-26-2009, 11:41 AM
Take a deep breath and then go grab a beer. This is normal. Your gun isn't broken. You can spend hours cleaning it off it you want to. Or you can clean your gun as normal and get on with life. I would only worry if those deposits start to really build up. Which they won't if you just clean your gun. Try the lead removal products if you want. But again, don't stress. Your gun is a shooter. It is going to look like that.

-Mb

Army
10-26-2009, 11:56 AM
THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH YOUR GUN!!!!!!:cool2:
No no no...the gun is totally destroyed. I will eliviate your concern and purchase the sad pile of scrap metal from you for $10. it's the least I can do for your sad situation.

I'm here for you.....


:D:D:D

WokMaster1
10-26-2009, 12:00 PM
^^^^^ What he said except I'll give you $2 more.^^^^^^^^^^

minuteman
10-26-2009, 12:02 PM
Don't stare at it too much or you will go blind!

Beelzy
10-26-2009, 12:03 PM
Gun oil and 0000 steel wool will remove most of the Cylinder Burn.

Welcome to Wheelguns.

bombadillo
10-26-2009, 2:27 PM
Use lead wipes, it'll come right off.