PDA

View Full Version : Buck Mark FTE question


slo5oh
05-17-2005, 2:39 PM
Any Browning Buck Mark owners:
I've got a Buck Mark that sat for several years. It has a Failure to Eject problem with hyper velocity 30gr ammo. Though the problem was the gun until I tried some stanard 40gr ammo and it works ok with that. Swapping back and fort it seems the lighter ammo does not have enough kick to move the slide all the way back. Can anyone point me a good direction to get this ammo to work with this gun? Or should I just use standard 22lr?
On a side note the slide does not seem to "slide" as smooth as it should. I think the previous owner didn't understand what oil is.

bwiese
05-17-2005, 2:51 PM
I'd 1st check that your gun's action is clean and your slide is well-lubed (i.e., BreakFree/ CLP).

If all's well there, I'd take that same problem ammo and try it in a common Ruger 22 autoloader (a friend's, a range rental gun, etc.): I suspect this too will fail to fully cycle in that gun too.

I know some of the subsonic ammo is noted even by its mfgrs that it will not reliably cycle the action of a semiauto...

Bill Wiese
San Jose

trempel_ry@yahoo.com
05-17-2005, 5:02 PM
Semi-auto .22s like high-velocity stuff, especially for the break-in period. If you're using hyper-velocity rounds, that shouldn't be the problem. I'd clean it and lube it, paying special attention to any dirt under the extractor and the chamber.
Last time my Buckmark hiccuped was after shooting about 1000 rounds through it with no cleaning. The bolt face was caked with carbon and cases started getting hung-up in the chamber as well. Took it apart and gave it a quick once-over. It's back up and running again.
If your gun is clean, maybe it just doesn't like that particular brand of ammo.

Turbinator
05-18-2005, 7:11 AM
I also vote for the cleaning. A Buckmark I used before (got two friends with this model) started having failures to extract after getting too dirty. Cleaning it fixed this problem. Key is to take it down enough to get into the slide and recoil spring area - this area is not normally reachable without disassembly, which involves taking the topstrap off with tools. It's a pain, but it's the only way. The carbon fouling on the recoil guide rod will usually gum up the works. Try this and see if you get any progress.

Turby

slo5oh
05-24-2005, 1:59 PM
Thanks guys,
This is the exact advice I've been looking for. I think I may have to place a small order from brownells anyhow. The screws holding the top strap are a little stripped, I'd hate to end up drilling them out because I was too cheap to replace them now.

Turbinator
05-25-2005, 8:45 AM
Originally posted by slo5oh:
Thanks guys,
This is the exact advice I've been looking for. I think I may have to place a small order from brownells anyhow. The screws holding the top strap are a little stripped, I'd hate to end up drilling them out because I was too cheap to replace them now.

Better to have stripped screws (and replace them) than to have a stripped topstrap. If you drill them out, you risk damaging the topstrap threads as well - I'd advise against doing that.

When you get your replacement screws, install them "finger tight" - don't over-torque. Use a small dab of LocTite blue or even smaller dab of LocTite red on the threads to hold them in place. Don't use too much else you will have a really hard time getting the screws out in the future... That way when you go to unscrew them, you won't need to apply TOO much force. The LocTite is key to keep the topstrap on during normal usage, else the screws, once loosened from the factory installation, will loosen themselves over time thanks to recoil and usage.

Let us know how it goes!

Turby