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View Full Version : stock options (for a k98) - 10/4 update/ completed


rogdigity
09-13-2009, 12:21 PM
10/4 up date: adding some pictures of this whole project from start to finish at the end of this post (page 3)



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just a laminate stock for my mauser. i had used a chemical cocktail of strippers and neutralizers to get most of the oils out of the stock and then refinished it with a 1-part brush-on poly/stain system (polyshades from minwax i think). came out looking like sh*t. i finally got sick of seeing it like that so i finally got it all sanded out again and worked out a couple of dings in it.

i boughtsome regular old rub on minwax stain and some basic looking, satin finish, rub-in poly. i am hoping for better results with the rub in poly then i had with the brush on stuff.

i have heard a lot of people say to use boiled linseed oil and other various oils. before i stain this one i was just wondering if anyone else has any suggestions or comments?

Argonaut
09-13-2009, 1:13 PM
I don't think these were ever stained......They only used linseed oil. The ones that we see know have had so much stuff used on them through the decades they look dark. The museum examples at West Point are very light colored. laminated stocks were used on later built rifles when resource's were becoming scarce. They did get moved around to older rifles as replacements for broken solid wood stocks.

rogdigity
09-13-2009, 1:41 PM
thats what i am guessing happened here. prolly a russian capture and they pulled a stock of another and stuck it on

Noonanda
09-13-2009, 5:49 PM
boiled linseed oil or tung oil are the only finished you should use on a C&R. BLO will make it look real nice

Dr. Peter Venkman
09-13-2009, 5:54 PM
boiled linseed oil or tung oil are the only finished you should use on a C&R. BLO will make it look real nice

BLO is pimpshine juice. Ugh. Try putting an original finish on it.

rogdigity
09-13-2009, 6:24 PM
i wasnt relly feeling the BLO either. i tried it today with just the rub on poly just out of curiosity. it just gives the wood a wet kind of look. i want something just a few shades darker, but not much.

i dont know what the original finish would have been though other than axel grease.. please elaborate DR?

smeg
09-13-2009, 6:26 PM
Try putting an original finish on it.

and that would be?

Dr. Peter Venkman
09-13-2009, 6:51 PM
i wasnt relly feeling the BLO either. i tried it today with just the rub on poly just out of curiosity. it just gives the wood a wet kind of look. i want something just a few shades darker, but not much.

i dont know what the original finish would have been though other than axel grease.. please elaborate DR?

Begin your journey:

http://forums.gunboards.com/forumdisplay.php?f=6

Most likely just use regular linseed oil.

knucklehead0202
09-13-2009, 10:28 PM
i like the darker, almost reddish-tint myself, dunno what that would be, but a few of my c&r's have the hue. my SKS and one or two mosins that were probably lacquered or something, have a gorgeous color to them. i'd shoot for that. got a couple i'm considering a refinish on and plan on using some kind of cherrywood-type color. these are sporters so it won't hurt their value any, just looking for prettier. one day i'll take pictures of my collection, once the camera isn't used for the actual babies(proud father of twins, 1 year old today).

Pryde
09-13-2009, 10:42 PM
No matter what, poly over stain will always make your rifle stock look like sh*t.

The best way to finish in my opinion is rubbed in linseed or tung oil and finish it off with hand buffed furniture wax. Furniture wax is almost as tough as poly and it gives it a natural non-synthetic shine. That's how gunstocks were done for decades before the advent of polyurethane coatings.

Dr. Peter Venkman
09-13-2009, 11:09 PM
Get a few shares in Rheinmetall, Walther, and Porsche.

bugaw69r
09-14-2009, 1:15 AM
Get a few shares in Rheinmetall, Walther, and Porsche.

Good one! and hilarity ensues, whos takin nxt crack at it?.....hehe. :rofl2:

Noonanda
09-14-2009, 4:17 AM
Begin your journey:

http://forums.gunboards.com/forumdisplay.php?f=6

Most likely just use regular linseed oil.

Boiled linseed oil is not "pimpshine Juice" all it does is dry quicker than regular linseed oil unless you add japan dryers to it. And when I say BLO I dont mean minwax or any of the "poly" stain crap sold at home depot. I do know that both lowes and home depot carries plain tung oil or BLO. BLO is what was used on garands, springfields ETC during WW2. Tung oil would be more correct for a K-98

rogdigity
09-14-2009, 6:50 AM
see, now theres a decent answer. thanks noonanda.

pryde, im using a flat/satin poly, not that barffy high gloss stuff at all

knucklehead, i was originally looking for a darker, reddish, kind of hue to it. the one part stuff i used just came out terrible though. you can still see a little of it on the cross bolt though. it came out more of a purple and looked like crap. the last can of stain i got was actually a medium walnut shade. i got it because it was more comperable to my mini-14 and the old 1903 i had. think ill go down to blowes or home sleepo and see what else i can find today. maybe spot test the tung oil

TRAP55
09-14-2009, 9:34 AM
This is the only product I've found that will give you the closest thing to the original finish on most milsurps including Mausers:
http://www.thegunstockdoctor.com/Products.html

Rem222
09-14-2009, 1:51 PM
This is the only product I've found that will give you the closest thing to the original finish on most milsurps including Mausers:
http://www.thegunstockdoctor.com/Products.html

I've used this same stuff.. Worked great.

caldude
09-14-2009, 2:11 PM
I actually used shellac on mine. I don't care much about historical accuracy on an RC K98, so I stripped and cleaned the stock and then used dark dewaxed shellac I got from here (I got the liquid not the dry): http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/shellac3.htm
You can adjust the shellac cut weight (ratio of alcohol to base) to change the shades. This shellac is VERY easy to work with.

Here's how mine turned out using a 2lb cut:
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg229/caldudejr/Pb020163.jpg

Dr. Peter Venkman
09-14-2009, 6:46 PM
Boiled linseed oil is not "pimpshine Juice" all it does is dry quicker than regular linseed oil unless you add japan dryers to it. And when I say BLO I dont mean minwax or any of the "poly" stain crap sold at home depot. I do know that both lowes and home depot carries plain tung oil or BLO. BLO is what was used on garands, springfields ETC during WW2. Tung oil would be more correct for a K-98

This is what BLO can look like on a refinish:

http://mauser98.com/03a4bench.jpg

I don't particularly like that kind of shine. That being said, BLO can add a LOT of shine to a gun when it shouldn't, especially when it is overdone. Specifically regarding K98s the type of finish applied to it is going to very depending on the year and the type of wood used. Tung oil should not have the glossy appearance of polyurethane, which can happen with BLO. Typically regular linseed oil is going to end up darkening the wood.

Sometimes BLO/LO or Tung Oil is not going to get close to the original finish or might not achieve the desired result. It all depends on where you get your stuff from. A cheap and easy way is to use a 1/3rd mix of Wax, BLO, and Turpentine. I was quite happy with the product I bought from www.thegunstockdoctor.com when I used it on an M28 I bought from this board that had been refinished with some type of gloss.

see, now theres a decent answer. thanks noonanda.

Don't visit gunboards and find out what is correct for your rifle.

:rolleyes:

rogdigity
09-15-2009, 3:43 PM
Don't visit gunboards and find out what is correct for your rifle.

:rolleyes:

i was just reffering to what was said about the tung oil. though long winded, it was a straight answer at the end.

i did visit the other board and i do respect everything you say very much. i have seen your post numerous times and i can tell you know your ****. the original finish i used was the one-part stain/poly all in one stuff and it came out a lot like the dark one in your picture but a little reder still and it didnt seem to sink in like i wanted it to. it was more like paint really. im just looking for a couple shades darker then the original wood now though. im not so much looking for historical accuracy though as this is only a russian capture and has a laminate stock. i will get a new hardwood stock for it eventually

Noonanda
09-16-2009, 11:23 AM
the tung oil finish will darken the stock some, worst case you could do a redish stain then tung oil to seal it. you will need to do multiple coats.

rogdigity
09-20-2009, 11:40 AM
i finally got around to slapping some stain on the mauser stock. i used minwax 'ipswitch pine' color stain it matches the handguard pretty good really

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/101_0061.jpg

it may be just a shade or two darker but i still need to redo the handguard anyways so ill just get a shade darker stain for that one

Argonaut
09-20-2009, 11:47 AM
....................LOOKS GREAT.....................

rogdigity
09-20-2009, 7:21 PM
glad someone thinks so

thanks man

Trench Broom
09-23-2009, 2:47 AM
Very nice. :thumbsup: I redid some laminate furniture for a pair of Romy G's a while back and ended up using a natural oil finish put out by Watco - very pleased with the finished result. I'll be using this product down the road when i get around to redoing my Yugo M48 Mauser stock.

rogdigity
10-04-2009, 2:24 PM
when i first got this stock it was original oil/grease finish and when fired it would 'bleed' a little bit of the oil (or hell, maybe even just cozmo soaked into the stock) on your hands and made an ugly mess. i read up on the finishes used and it seemed that most of them were rubbed with surplus tank axel grease to help keep them water proof. i also read how to clean then up which was as follows:


shoot the gun and heat it up (which instead i just left it sitting in the sun), soak it with oven cleaner or scrubbing bubbles to suck the oils out, douse in acetone to neutralize the cleaners, douse in mineral spirits to neutralize the acetone, repeat about 10-20 times or until it all comes out...

i then used a minwax 'one-part stain/sealer' all in one deal:
http://www.minwax.com/products/one_step_stain_and_finishes/polyshades.html#Colors

i used bombay mahogany because i wanted the slight reddish tint. as you can see from the pictures it came out like crap. these are the pictures with that finish



http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/side.jpg

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/recieverright.jpg

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/recieverleft.jpg

rogdigity
10-04-2009, 2:31 PM
after looking at that stock for 2 effin years i got sick of it and sanded it all down again. it also gave me a chance to work out a little ding in the stock. if you look at the right side of the stock just low and behind the sling cutout, theres a darker spot. it used to be a nice divit but i worked out a little bit of it with an iron and wet towel and snded out most of the rest to smooth it out. it looks like the rifle took quite a blow at one point and you can even see where the big metal ring in the stock has been shifted to one side and bent:



you can still see some of the crappy finish in the stock crossbolt in this picture
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/101_0056.jpg


in this one you can see that the metal ring is still centered in its hole and the wood grain/glue lines are nice and smooth
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/101_0058.jpg


notice the spots around the top of the metal ring which are chipped out and that just left and low of the metal ring the glue line is bretty beat up and rough
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/101_0055.jpg

rogdigity
10-04-2009, 2:39 PM
for the new finished i use a basic minwax stain in the color 'ipswitch pine':http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_stains/wood_finish.html#Colors. i then followed it up with their rub-on poly with a satin finish: http://www.minwax.com/products/water_based_clear_protective_finishes/water_based_wipe_on_poly.html


during stain:
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/101_0060.jpg

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/101_0061.jpg




the hand guard is hardwood while the stock is laminate so it was tricky to get the color match right. i had to do a couple extra coats of stain on the handguard. here is the final result:


in this picture you can still see the darker spot in the wood and the rough glue lines by that big metal ring
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/101_0074.jpg

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/101_0067.jpg

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/101_0068.jpg

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rogdigity/mauser/101_0070.jpg




so thats one project done. im still working on a japanese arisaka type 99 rebuild and a japanese arisaka type 38 conversion (converting from smooth bore trainer to a rifled barreled shooter). let me know what you guys think?

Double G
10-04-2009, 8:55 PM
Looks better than when you started. I just use boiled linseed oil or toungue oil depending on how dark I want it. If it's an original unsanded k98 stock then I use very little Howards feed N wax.

7.62x54R
10-04-2009, 9:48 PM
looks good. :D

Dr. Peter Venkman
10-04-2009, 10:31 PM
Looks like Mitchell's. :(

glennsche
10-04-2009, 11:17 PM
Looks like Mitchell's. :(

Ach komm, Peter, why are you always the wet blanket. :)

it looks fantastic! frankly, saying something *looks* like a mitchells is a complement in my book; that they make those russian caps look good isnt the problem, where those guys go wrong is their shady marketing.

Dr. Peter Venkman
10-04-2009, 11:43 PM
saying something *looks* like a mitchells is a complement in my book

The Book of Bubba is to be despised, not praised. Rog, that looks a bit too shiny!

Pryde
10-05-2009, 6:07 AM
The Book of Bubba is to be despised, not praised. Rog, that looks a bit too shiny!

I told him to stay away from the poly!

rogdigity
10-05-2009, 6:11 AM
I told him to stay away from the poly!

i assure you its from the flash


and as i said before, i was doing this with this stock as practice. it is a RC and not exactly a million dollar rifle by any means. i just didnt want it to leak oil on me when i shot it and i wanted it to look great

rogdigity
10-05-2009, 6:40 AM
hey peter, i am about to redo an arisaka type 38 stock. what suggestions would you have for that. or is tung oil ok for that one. also, when using tung oil how do you seal it? or is the tung oil the actual sealer

Pryde
10-05-2009, 7:10 AM
hey peter, i am about to redo an arisaka type 38 stock. what suggestions would you have for that. or is tung oil ok for that one. also, when using tung oil how do you seal it? or is the tung oil the actual sealer

Both tung oil and boiled linseed oil are semifluid and harden when they dry. After a few days of drying either oil, it will not leak or melt out of your stock, there is no need to seal. Apply several coats, let dry and you just buff the exterior until it is shiny. The original finish on WW2 k98s was linseed oil.

Pryde
10-05-2009, 8:36 AM
These two are mine and were done with only linseed oil and a light coat of wax to make them shine. Late war and Early war.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/sickeness/k98010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/sickeness/k98013.jpg

rogdigity
10-05-2009, 3:48 PM
pretty nice.

thanks for the info on LO and TO. any idea on what the arisakas were finished with though?

rogdigity
10-05-2009, 3:51 PM
also, i notice on both of yours the metal seems pretty dark. is that from germany? or was that something only done on the russian captures?

Dr. Peter Venkman
10-06-2009, 1:50 PM
hey peter, i am about to redo an arisaka type 38 stock. what suggestions would you have for that. or is tung oil ok for that one. also, when using tung oil how do you seal it? or is the tung oil the actual sealer

You can either use urushi (expensive Japanese Lacquer which they originally used) or you can use a combination of Crayola Markers and BLO.

Check this out:

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=175&p=608799

And tung oil is a sealer to answer your question.