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View Full Version : My new Fab 10 build!


maxicon
02-16-2005, 11:11 PM
Yes, my varmint kit finally arrived.

The kit bits:
http://www.maxicon.com/guns/fab10/fab10_parts.jpg

And the assembled goodies:
http://www.maxicon.com/guns/fab10/fab10_built.jpg

It's my first AR, so it took me about 3 hours to put together (and about 1 hour of that was fiddling with the Jewell trigger). It could have easily been done in under an hour with a bit of practice.

The kit's from http://www.jtdistributing.com/, and everything went together fine, with just a few glitches. They were out of stock on the Badger handguard I wanted, so I told them to ship it with the standard handguard, and they didn't charge me for the grip upgrade and sling swivel.

The only real problem is that their gas block rail isn't a standard Picatinny design, and the recoil grooves are too small for the cross-screw in my YHM flip-up front sight. I haven't talked to them yet, since I just finished it last night.

RRA has the same problem on one of their gas blocks; amusingly, I bought the YHM sight from a guy who was selling it because it wouldn't fit on his RRA!

Anyhow, I've got some various optics rails, risers, extenders, and such to play with, but no iron sights until I get this straight.

So, it's time for a good scrub and lube, then off to the range to see how it's going to do.

Yah, baby!

max

maxicon
02-16-2005, 11:11 PM
Yes, my varmint kit finally arrived.

The kit bits:
http://www.maxicon.com/guns/fab10/fab10_parts.jpg

And the assembled goodies:
http://www.maxicon.com/guns/fab10/fab10_built.jpg

It's my first AR, so it took me about 3 hours to put together (and about 1 hour of that was fiddling with the Jewell trigger). It could have easily been done in under an hour with a bit of practice.

The kit's from http://www.jtdistributing.com/, and everything went together fine, with just a few glitches. They were out of stock on the Badger handguard I wanted, so I told them to ship it with the standard handguard, and they didn't charge me for the grip upgrade and sling swivel.

The only real problem is that their gas block rail isn't a standard Picatinny design, and the recoil grooves are too small for the cross-screw in my YHM flip-up front sight. I haven't talked to them yet, since I just finished it last night.

RRA has the same problem on one of their gas blocks; amusingly, I bought the YHM sight from a guy who was selling it because it wouldn't fit on his RRA!

Anyhow, I've got some various optics rails, risers, extenders, and such to play with, but no iron sights until I get this straight.

So, it's time for a good scrub and lube, then off to the range to see how it's going to do.

Yah, baby!

max

endings1@aol.com
02-17-2005, 9:53 AM
Very nice! I'd build a FAB-10 lower to Varmint specs also.

Turbinator
02-17-2005, 11:21 AM
Very nice - how did you do on the pins? I found the trigger guard pin to be tough. Next time I'm going to squeeze it a little with some pliers to make it tapered, so that it fits in a little easier.

Turby

schizrade
02-17-2005, 11:38 AM
Nice! I need to post a pic of mine someday. Where are you going shooting? We should make a FAB10 support group so we can ***** and moan about the lack of a magazine... http://www.calguns.net/laughroll.gif

BigAL
02-17-2005, 1:34 PM
Looking good. IF I built a Fab-10, it would be in varmint config too. What's the barrel twist rate?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Turbinator:
Next time I'm going to squeeze it a little with some pliers to make it tapered, so that it fits in a little easier.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yup. Using pliers or a vice to slightly squeeze one end of a roll pin to get it started is the easiest way. Just don't over do it or it may not hold. Also, adding a little lube can sometimes help.

-hanko
02-17-2005, 7:18 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Technical Ted:

The pin I always had trouble with was the one for the bolt catch (Available on the newer FAB10 production models). Hole placement is awkward to allow straight line driving. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Start with a long punch, grind the side of the handle away to allow it to get closer to the receiver.

-hanko

02-17-2005, 7:31 PM
Bunch of know-nothing, freakin' amateurs...

Just get a BIGGER hammer to pound on those pins, duh! Everybody knows that! http://calguns.net/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif


http://calguns.net/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

maxicon
02-18-2005, 10:40 AM
No range time yet, between work and the rain... Maybe this weekend. I've got an itchy trigger finger!

Roll pins: J&T supplies scroll pins, rather than split roll pins, and reports from ar15.com are that they're lots easier than roll pins. That was the hardest part to get in, except for fiddling with the Jewell trigger. I was pretty careful, used a roll pin punch from OSH, and made sure it was well supported on a block of wood so as not to destroy or damage anything. I used a rawhide hammer from my jewelry days, and it took a bit of whacking to get it in, but no mishaps. There are a couple of assembly guides at arfcom that were extremely helpful.

Here's a thread on roll pins from arfcom: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=223355. My Fab10's older, so there's no bolt catch, and that was actually a bit of a relief...

Speaking of which, my lower doesn't have a hole for the takedown pin detent and spring; is this normal? My takedown pin just sits in there, and seems like it would be prone to working its way out.

JT sent a spare pivot pin spring and detent, and I almost needed it due to launching them twice (even using a 1/4x2" clevis pin as an install tool), but I was doing that part in a big ziplock, and it saved my bacon!

The varmint kit seemed like the best bet, considering this will only be a paper puncher and I don't have any accurate rifles before this, but it is a bit heavy. Barrel twist is 1x8, and there's nothing special about the barrel besides the bull profile, because something like a Krieger costs near as much as the whole kit, and I'm already in pretty deep on this one.

One beauty of the AR platform is the ease of swapping uppers. I'm already looking around at lighter uppers that the kids can shoot more easily; maybe a basic A3 style upper. Lots of choices, and it's a bit overwhelming!

I called JT about my gas block rail, and they said send it back and they'll send one with good rail dimensions, so we'll see how that works out. They've been very helpful overall. I believe I'll take it to the range before I pull the gas block, since I have some optics alternatives to play with, and going another week or two without trying it out would be nuts.

Since I'm a tinkerer, and have an assortment of scopes, red dots, and my Eotech, I'm buying used mount stuff from the arfcom equipment exchange to try different sighting/optics setups.

So far, I've picked up an ARMS extended Swan sleeve with a tritium flip-up BUIS (woohoo!), a YHM flip-up front sight that may be the wrong height, a Colt carry handle, an ARMS carry handle mount, and some Armalite high rings. All I need now is to get a good riser block, and that'll cover it all pretty well.

The Eotech mounts nicely to either the receiver rail or the Swan sleeve, and my Ultradot and traditional scopes mount well to the carry handle/mount combo, though a riser mount would give fewer connections. I get a good fit with the scopes mounted pretty high off the bore axis.

I also got a GGG extended Swan rail that I was hoping to mount to my SU16 so I could get better eye relief on the traditional scopes, but it looks like the SU16 rail doesn't meet the Picatinny/1913 spacing specs. I'll probably modify the Swan rail to mount on the SU16.

It's been quite an adventure and a learning process, and I haven't even chambered a round yet!

Yeah, we'll have to put together a group shoot soon.

max

BigAL
02-18-2005, 11:10 AM
I've always felt a 1/8" twist is ideal. It'll let you shoot the full range of light varmint and heavy match target stuff.

Technical Ted
02-18-2005, 11:34 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by maxicon:
Speaking of which, my lower doesn't have a hole for the takedown pin detent and spring; is this normal? My takedown pin just sits in there, and seems like it would be prone to working its way out. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
My lower was made by the original manufacturer, CMS. It has the standard rear take-down pin, so it uses the detent and spring for retention. Later, to ease opening the receiver for loading, there was a change made using a pin with a pull ring. Never looked at one, but it may incorporate a ball detent for retention? These are available from Shoeless for $25
http://www.fabten.com/online_catalog.htm

maxicon
02-18-2005, 1:47 PM
Well, I talked to someone at Shoeless, and it sounds like it's supposed to have the detent and spring. He's going to get back to me.

I'll keep everyone updated on what comes from it, and I guess I'll just duct-tape the damn thing until it's resolved. http://calguns.net/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif

max

Nosmik
02-18-2005, 8:28 PM
When I installed the LPK, I didn't have all those fancy tools. The ones that worked perfect were the following: Flat head screw driver acting like a hammer, electrical tape to prevent any big scratches and that little plastic bullet that comes inside a Guinness bottle acting like the perfect punch!

C.G.
03-06-2005, 12:28 PM
I'll get my FAB 10 in ten days, now I am deciding on the kit. Is yours the Expedition 20' kit? Looks nice, I think I'll get it as well. Have you shot it yet? Any impressions?

03-06-2005, 1:50 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by maxicon:
Well, I talked to someone at Shoeless, and it sounds like it's supposed to have the detent and spring. He's going to get back to me. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Mine's an early one too (CMS made with the goofy "Kilroy" on the receiver). I checked it out (the receiver is just a safequeen now http://calguns.net/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif) and it definitely has the hole for the spring and detent on the takedown pin side. Sounds like yours was a mistake.
Interesting quality control, IMO.

maxicon
03-06-2005, 9:21 PM
Mine's the 20" varmint kit. I'm not sure I'd recommend it unless you really wanted a heavy barrel, because it's pretty durn heavy, but I wanted the best accuracy for the money, and it's easy to swap uppers.

The arfcom folks say you get good accuracy out of the military profile barrels if you float them, but thinner barrels are generally affected by heat quicker (and cool off quicker too).

I've got a 16" HBAR upper on its way and a load of target ammo that just came in, so I'm hoping to get some range time and get them both dialed in and compared soon. Unfortunately, time's a bit short right now...

As for the detent hole, yep, it's a mistake. I'm working with them on solutions, and the ball's in my court. Too early to tell, so I'll give more updates on that later.

For now, I'm holding the pin in place with gaffer's tape, because it's more tactical than duct tape http://calguns.net/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif.

C.G.
03-07-2005, 2:01 AM
My idea is same as yours, have a shorty upper for just about everything and a long one for longer distance. So yours is the bull barrel?

Spotted Owl
03-09-2005, 10:40 AM
How do you load it?

xsquid
03-09-2005, 11:51 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by maxicon:
RRA has the same problem on one of their gas blocks; amusingly, I bought the YHM sight from a guy who was selling it because it wouldn't fit on his RRA!
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I had the same problem with an RRA A3 upper, the damn things was too wide to fit an ARMS Swan sleeve - sold it off to another individual with the caveat that it wasn't mil-spec. I'd never buy an RRA manufactured item again. Nice looking rifle BTW.

maxicon
03-10-2005, 7:12 AM
Mine's the same configuration - no bolt catch.

I prefer loading it up manually too. It's not really any different from loading it with strippers, since the strippers need to be loaded first anyway, and it's a lot harder to load from strippers than, say, an SKS, which is really fast and simple.