Anyone have this problem with Lake City brass?

[Nessal]

I have some Lake City brass saved up from my past shoots. They are 08 headstamp and once fired. After I took out the old primer, I'm having trouble putting in a new primer. I'm using CCI #41 primers and they just won't go in. I used the Lee Autoprimer and also off the press. Neither of them would get them in. I did manage to get one in but it took and abnormal amount of force. I can tell that the primer is pretty much smashed after I primed it. My other brass never had this problem. They all went in very smooth and firm. What can the problem be? I made sure the primer pocket is spotless.!!!!!:confused:

[rabagley]

The primer pocket is very likely crimped. You'll need to ream each pocket with a, wait for it... primer pocket reamer!

Yeah, extra effort sucks. Believe me, I know.

[domokun]

Ream or swage the primer pocket to remove the crimp. I personally use one of these to remove the crimps from the primer pockets:

http://www.dillonprecision.com/uimages//Super_Swage_600_m.jpg

The only exception to this is if you're like ar15barrels and have a nice Dillon 1050 that will do the swaging on the press for you. :thumbsup:

[slamfire]

I also prefer the swage great tool and very fast

[rksimple]

Military and some commercial brass has a crimped primer. You need to know what to look for so you don't run into this problem again.

As far as removing the crimp, do you have one of these?

http://media.midwayusa.com/highres/143728.jpg

Chuck it in a drill and go to town. 1 second zip and the crimp is gone. Faster than all the other methods I've tried.

[Bug Splat]

Chuck it in a drill and go to town. 1 second zip and the crimp is gone. Faster than all the other methods I've tried.

+1, thats what I do sitting on the couch watching TV. Also CCI primers are very hard. I stopped using them because I would sometimes get a PITA primer that would not go in all the way. I switched to Winchester or Fed and have never looked back. Of course, today I'd take just about anything I could find but 3 years ago when I could pick and choose from a large selection of primers not costing more than $20 per thousand I stayed away from CCI.

[Nessal]

I did ream the pocket. I guess ill give it another stab. Thanks boys.

[30Cal]

I did ream the pocket. I guess ill give it another stab. Thanks boys.

Not enough then.

[Nessal]

Military and some commercial brass has a crimped primer. You need to know what to look for so you don't run into this problem again.

As far as removing the crimp, do you have one of these?

http://media.midwayusa.com/highres/143728.jpg

Chuck it in a drill and go to town. 1 second zip and the crimp is gone. Faster than all the other methods I've tried.


Yup, I got one of those. Never thought of the drill idea. I'll give that a stab.

[bohoki]

when i started i was using a countersink but to remove the crimp i still use it a little but have a hand held reamer

[badreligion]

If your drill jaws won't open enough to fit your case deburrer you can get the sinclair/possum hollow case trimmer drill adapter and put your case deburrer in it to do the same thing. Also makes deburring and chamfering alot easier.

[dwtt]

I had the same experience with some LC brass, and swaging the primer pocket took care of the problem. I bought the swager mail order off gun broker for ~$8 several years ago.

[ar15barrels]

Ream or swage the primer pocket to remove the crimp. I personally use one of these to remove the crimps from the primer pockets:

http://www.dillonprecision.com/uimages//Super_Swage_600_m.jpg

The only exception to this is if you're like ar15barrels and have a nice Dillon 1050 that will do the swaging on the press for you. :thumbsup:

I swage my blasting 308 on a Dillon Super Swage.
Both my 1050's are old ones so they don't have room to run 308 through them, nor do I want to tear down a 1050 just to swage some 308 cases...