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Z ME FLY
06-21-2009, 7:39 PM
Hey I am trying to clean my s&w610 I took off the grips and 3 screws but can't get the sideplate off. I used a flat head to try to pry it off but it isn't working. Can someone give me some 411.

thanks

Z ME FLY
06-21-2009, 7:43 PM
Or maybe if someone knows of a online manual

JTROKS
06-21-2009, 7:44 PM
With the sideplate screws off use a non marring mallet or the handle of a medium plastic handle screwdriver to tap on the other side of the frame. The vibration will unseat it.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh257/joshuatroy/DSC01586.jpg

Z ME FLY
06-21-2009, 7:48 PM
So I am hitting on the other side where the release is at correct? I'm tapping it but still nothing

ojisan
06-21-2009, 7:56 PM
If you pry you risk bending it and you will hate yourself.
Tap all over, even down on the grip.
A certain amount of vibration and flex has to be induced.
You can also try holding the barrel and slapping the grip frame against your hand, side plate towards your hand. Next is slap it against a piece of wood.
Last is pry it.

Z ME FLY
06-21-2009, 7:58 PM
so I am tapping on the correct side?

tiko
06-21-2009, 8:01 PM
Do youhave a rubber/plastic hammer, don't hesitate to tap stronger, you will not hurt the frame.

ojisan
06-21-2009, 8:05 PM
I would start off with holding the gun over your couch or bed.
Hold frame by barrel with the sideplate down.
Smack the top solid side of frame, staring from grip frame bottom and working towards the cyl. release latch.

Next is turn frame over, smack grip frame down to flex the grip frame portion away from sideplate.

You have to induce some flex. Scary I know, trust me, it won't break.

Z ME FLY
06-21-2009, 8:07 PM
So I have been tapping it and hitting it for the past 5 mins (yes I know that doesn't sound right) The cyl came out so I'm still working on the sideplate.

ojisan
06-21-2009, 8:17 PM
The side plates are super tight because they are such a precision fit.
They have to come out straight and evenly at all edges at the same time.
Sometimes the pry is necessary, but getting any angle will just wedge it tighter, making this the last resort.

Z ME FLY
06-21-2009, 8:17 PM
Well I'm just going to give up. But on a good note, I can use the revolver to club someone without and fear of messing it up now.

ojisan
06-21-2009, 8:21 PM
The pry:
I start with thin pocket knife at the trigger and matching pressure at the lower right edge of the plate with a screwdriver Once you get any movement at all, return to tapping and hand slapping. Did you smack it on a wood block?

scr83jp
06-21-2009, 8:32 PM
The pry:
I start with thin pocket knife at the trigger and matching pressure at the lower right edge of the plate with a screwdriver Once you get any movement at all, return to tapping and hand slapping. Did you smack it on a wood block?schematics are available on egunparts and brownells,have tried asking on google?

J-cat
06-21-2009, 8:53 PM
Do not pry. You'll damage it.

Hold the gun so you have the sideplate against your thumb. Strike the opposite side of the receiver against the gripframe with the handle of the screwdriver. Strike it hard. You need to create resonance in the metal. Strike it repeatedly until the sideplate starts moving. Smack it until the sideplate unseats. Use your thumb to prevent it from falling off.

BigDogatPlay
06-21-2009, 9:03 PM
Do not, repeat, DO NOT under any circumstances try to pry off the sideplate. It will eventually come off, but you will be very unhappy with the results.

The best results in opening a sideplate on any S&W is to:

1) Remove the grips.
2) Remove the (three or more for earlier models) sideplate screws.
3) Remove the cylinder and yoke from the frame, the front most screw holds the yoke in place.
4) Hold the frame in your hand, side plate side up toward you.
5) Using either a non-marring, e.g. rubber mallet or the wooden / fiberglass handle of a hammer, tap gently but firmly on the grip frame. I get the best results with the handle of a hammer.

Work slowly, but you will see the side plate start to loosen up. It needs to raise up out of it's cut slowly and evenly, and it will eventually need to go back in the same way. You will know when you are done because the sideplate will pop out and be loose, generally.

Be careful handling the sideplate. It is a closely fitted piece and if you drop it you may be very unhappy. The hammer block bar will be loose in there, that is by design. Watch for it as it has a tendency to come bouncing out when the sideplate comes fully up. There are no other parts which will be loose or fall out on their own.

For what it's worth, taking the sideplate off and detail cleaning the innards is not something you should do everytime you go to the range. I pop off the sideplate maybe once every couple of thousand rounds. The exception to that is any stainless steel model. These should (ideally) be detail cleaned inside and out before you take it to the range the first time. The machining process stainless leaves a lot of flakes and chips behind, and those can easily act like grit, particularly if you lube up prior to your first trip to the range. Not quite the same issues with blued or nickeled steel.

I'd suggest consulting a book specific on S&W revolver smithing before you get too deeply into the innards.

buffybuster
06-21-2009, 9:10 PM
DO NOT PRY ON THE SIDEPLATE!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you can't get it off, STOP right there and put it back together or take it to someone who KNOW's how.

JTROKS
06-21-2009, 9:17 PM
Try this link: http://books.google.com/books?id=7QkvhpRwqgoC&pg=PA94&lpg=PA94&dq=removing+side+plate+S%26W+revolver&source=bl&ots=Sp1Oq5xIOL&sig=RK0OBmiZDhzjpU5dJiEFjIU0g_k&hl=en&ei=agU_SqTHJoGksgOU3JzkCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=4


Page 94 just in case the web page doesn't index correctly.

D1911
06-21-2009, 9:17 PM
The best results in opening a sideplate on any S&W is to:

1) Remove the grips.
2) Remove the (three or more for earlier models) sideplate screws.
3) Remove the cylinder and yoke from the frame, the front most screw holds the yoke in place.
4) Hold the frame in your hand, side plate side up toward you.
5) Using either a non-marring, e.g. rubber mallet or the wooden / fiberglass handle of a hammer, tap gently but firmly on the grip frame. I get the best results with the handle of a hammer.

Excellent explanation!! This is the exact method I use, works like a charm every time. Normally takes only a few of raps to get the sideplate to "walk" itself free.

-hanko
06-21-2009, 9:27 PM
Do NOT effing-PRY the sideplate. That means no matter how hard you think it's stuck, do NOOOOT pry.
I'm cringing just thinking about it.

What always works for me is to remove grips and sideplate screws, using a screwdriver ground especially to fit the screws. I then hold the weapon in my left hand with the sideplate down, lay a shop rag on top of the left side of the weapon, and smack it with a chunk of lead that weighs about 2 lb.

If the sideplate does not pop off completely, you'll see one side has moved. With the rag and lead, gently put that side back in place, turn the gun back upside down, and smack it again. A hammer handle will also work, as will a liberal amount of clp or equivalent along the edges of the sideplate. Sometimes it helps to let her sit overnight for the solvent to work.

You're gonna' screw up a beautiful pistol:eek:...nothing shows amateur gun mechanic work better than pry marks and buggered screws.

Re-read buffybuster's post & take it to a professional.

Please.

-hanko