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coyotekiller56
06-20-2009, 5:29 PM
I have a springfield loaded that needs a trigger job.
Currently pull is over 7 lbs and not smooth.
Use of the pistol is defense and some IPSC so I am thinking 4.5 lbs would be about right and I would like to clean up the pull.
Need recommendation for armorer to do the work.
Suggestions and comments?
Thanks
Vic
:45:

ghost
06-20-2009, 6:05 PM
I have a springfield loaded that needs a trigger job.
Currently pull is over 7 lbs and not smooth.
Use of the pistol is defense and some IPSC so I am thinking 4.5 lbs would be about right and I would like to clean up the pull.
Need recommendation for armorer to do the work.
Suggestions and comments?
Thanks
Vic
:45:


contact frank at irvington arms in fremont or pm him here on the forum "franksremote"

AR-shogun
06-20-2009, 6:51 PM
John Jardine in Hayward

IMC87
06-20-2009, 7:32 PM
I remember when my loaded had a horrendous pull like that, well mine weighed in at about 8-9 lbs :puke:
I ended up selling, then later bought a S.A. MC Operator...That baby came with a 2.5-3 lbs pull FROM THE FACTORY!!! WOOO!

demo
06-20-2009, 8:22 PM
I have a springfield loaded that needs a trigger job.
Currently pull is over 7 lbs and not smooth.
Use of the pistol is defense and some IPSC so I am thinking 4.5 lbs would be about right and I would like to clean up the pull.
Need recommendation for armorer to do the work.
Suggestions and comments?
Thanks
Vic
:45:
7 pounds is over spec. springfeild will get it down to 5 for you under warrenty. call them up, it doesn't matter if you are the orginal owner or not. they got my junk back to me in less then a week and paid shiping.

g17owner
06-20-2009, 9:02 PM
I'd go this route and replace your FGC with these http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5502/Product/1911_AUTO_TRIGGER_PULL_KITS These are pretty much drop in and will greatly improve your trigger pull.

thawein1856
06-20-2009, 9:03 PM
Coyotekiller56,

Let me know who you use and how it turns out. I just picked up a SA Loaded myself and was looking at a tigger job as well.

buffybuster
06-20-2009, 9:58 PM
I wouldn't do any trigger work until you replaced the ILS assembly with standard mainspring housing and mainspring.

g17owner
06-20-2009, 9:59 PM
Good point. The ILS system on my milspec was horrible.

Robert1234
06-20-2009, 10:56 PM
I'd go this route and replace your FGC with these http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5502/Product/1911_AUTO_TRIGGER_PULL_KITS These are pretty much drop in and will greatly improve your trigger pull.

Second this, I installed the Tactical Match kit in a Caspian build, 3 lbs. Took about ten minutes to install vs. waiting months for a gunsmith to fit you in.

coyotekiller56
06-21-2009, 4:34 AM
I wouldn't do any trigger work until you replaced the ILS assembly with standard mainspring housing and mainspring.
Buffy,
ILS Assembly?
I did find the trigger pull kits and mainspring kits at Brownells.
Vic

coyotekiller56
06-21-2009, 5:25 AM
I wouldn't do any trigger work until you replaced the ILS assembly with standard mainspring housing and mainspring.
Buffy,
Great info!
Going to replace the frikin lock with all new mainspring housing and spring.
What # on the spring, seems 19# is average.
Also getting the tactical trigger kit, probably going to like that pull weight.
Vic

B Strong
06-21-2009, 9:08 AM
I know lots of people do it, but I recommend against DIY trigger work on 1911's, or any firearms for that matter, unless you know exactly what you are doing and why you're doing it.

More 1911's end up with problems from "drop-in" parts and unskilled tinkering than any other type of firearm, imo.

Working on pistols isn't like changing the oil on a Chevy small block - you can get the parts from a supplier, even "D-I" parts, but you still have to have the skill and experience to troubleshoot after you get them installed.

Return your Springer, they'll take it as a warranty repair. If you want to go lighter than what they'll supply, take it to John Jardine.

mtenenhaus
06-21-2009, 10:24 AM
You might also consider Bruce Gray (grayguns.com) and Randy Lee (apex tactical).

They do fantastic work.

g17owner
06-21-2009, 11:04 AM
If his pistol is in spec then all he needs is a good shop manual and an afternoon worth of reading and he will have the trigger he wants. There is no stoning or sear jigs required with these kits. As they are tooled and finished for in spec 1911's. I highly recommend this book http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=13815/Product/JERRY_KUHNHAUSEN_THE_U.S._M1911-M1911A1_PISTOLS_A_SHOP_MANUAL and a through read through. These parts are the parts that my smith recommends and uses and he's good. I'm not saying a professional wouldnt do better but these are drop in parts and as long as you dont cut or file you can always remove and reinstall the old parts. I do recommend sending it back to springfiedl as that will keep the warranty intact.

coyotekiller56
06-21-2009, 2:57 PM
Well, one thing you can count on from the forum, is lots of ideas.
With these in mind, I am going to see Mr. Jardine for some advice.
He's local and I have some thoughts on other work.
Thanks
Vic

MarioS
06-21-2009, 6:42 PM
I remember when my loaded had a horrendous pull like that, well mine weighed in at about 8-9 lbs :puke:
I ended up selling, then later bought a S.A. MC Operator...That baby came with a 2.5-3 lbs pull FROM THE FACTORY!!! WOOO!

Jeez...8-9#?! Yuck.

I would LOVE to get my hands on an Operator...I've heard their triggers are very light from the factory, as you've just mentioned.

Buffy,
ILS Assembly?
I did find the trigger pull kits and mainspring kits at Brownells.
Vic

It was the system they put in the mainspring housing where you could "lock" the gun to prevent it from firing with a key they provided from the factory; 99% of people I've talked to hate it. I wouldn't want one of my gun either; luckily, the GI I bought recently had it already removed by the previous owner so I didn't have to worry about that.

I would find a good smith and consult with them about various options on how to clean up the trigger pull and reduce the pull weight; replacing parts is not always necessary. Every moving part on my GI is very smooth and all the previous owner did was some polishing work to smooth things out; well, and an Ed Brown heat treated sear.