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View Full Version : New Mossberg 590A1 SPX (Pic Heavy)


rct442
05-11-2009, 3:05 PM
Picked it up on GunBroker for a steal. It even came with a M9 Bayonet:thumbsup:

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii76/tommytickles123/Mossberg590A1.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii76/tommytickles123/M590A1.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii76/tommytickles123/Mossberg590A1BayonetLug.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii76/tommytickles123/Mossberg590A1FullProfile.jpg

rct442
05-11-2009, 3:06 PM
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii76/tommytickles123/Mossberg590A1M9Bayonet.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii76/tommytickles123/Mossberg590A1OpenMagWell.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii76/tommytickles123/Mossberg590A1BusinessEnd.jpg

Ishoot
05-11-2009, 8:35 PM
Nice pics....those zombies have no chance now.:)

lasereye
05-11-2009, 8:43 PM
I love it!!! Nice find.:thumbsup:

How much?, if you don't mind me asking.

rct442
05-11-2009, 8:55 PM
I love it!!! Nice find.:thumbsup:

How much?, if you don't mind me asking.

$699 + Shipping + DROS

So not exactly "cheap", but I figure the M9 bayonet is at least $100 retail alone. Plus it is almost $800 retail, if you can find it or special order it. I'm pleased with what I payed for it, especially since it was factory new.

savasyn
05-11-2009, 8:58 PM
Me likey.
Not too different from the normal 590A1, but different enough to add an extra cool factor.

waitwha?
05-17-2009, 1:00 PM
does that little nub with the hole in it come off? I just ordered the same shotgun last week and wanted to put a surefire fore end on it but it says the light might hit. Do you have any input on that?

40caldeserteagle
05-17-2009, 1:31 PM
does that little nub with the hole in it come off? I just ordered the same shotgun last week and wanted to put a surefire fore end on it but it says the light might hit. Do you have any input on that?

That little 'nub' is called the bayonet (or accessory) lug. It comes right off with a grinder.

David F.

neomentat
05-20-2009, 9:06 PM
what's wrong with the front sight? is it glued on or something, what's that white stuff?

den888
09-11-2009, 7:36 PM
That is one nice and intimidating shotgun !

Guns R Tools
09-11-2009, 8:04 PM
hat's wrong with the front sight? is it glued on or something, what's that white stuff?

Probably silver soldering.

StoneRoots
09-12-2009, 10:14 AM
HAHAHA> has anyone in history ever shot someone at close range with a shot gun and then thought "you know, i dont think that slug was enough. i think this person needs some stabbin' as well......":D

Frijolito1988
09-12-2009, 10:39 AM
HAHAHA> has anyone in history ever shot someone at close range with a shot gun and then thought "you know, i dont think that slug was enough. i think this person needs some stabbin' as well......":D

The U.S Military :D , Since the 590A1 series are build to military spec and for military & LEO , thus the heavy barrel, bayo lug, and I belive the receiver is made of diffrent material and other changes.

rct442
09-12-2009, 11:09 AM
The U.S Military :D , Since the 590A1 series are build to military spec and for military & LEO , thus the heavy barrel, bayo lug, and I belive the receiver is made of diffrent material and other changes.

The trigger guard on all 590A1s are made of steel, not plastic like the Mossberg 500 series.

And you wouldn't believe how heavy it is loaded w/ 9+1 00 Buckshot. :chris:

Frijolito1988
09-12-2009, 11:27 AM
The trigger guard on all 590A1s are made of steel, not plastic like the Mossberg 500 series.

And you wouldn't believe how heavy it is loaded w/ 9+1 00 Buckshot. :chris:

dude , trust me i know how heavy it is, I have a 590a1 and fully loaded it will act like a nice billy club.

rct442
09-12-2009, 11:42 AM
dude , trust me i know how heavy it is, I have a 590a1 and fully loaded it will act like a nice billy club.

It's so heavy, you practically need a bipod for prone shooting.:D
It's so heavy, if I was on a boat, I could use it for a anchor.:D
It's so heavy, I'm thinking of selling it, and getting a Remington 870 Police Magnum:(

M9er
09-15-2009, 9:56 AM
Beautiful

M9er
09-15-2009, 10:00 AM
The trigger guard on all 590A1s are made of steel, not plastic like the Mossberg 500 series.

And you wouldn't believe how heavy it is loaded w/ 9+1 00 Buckshot. :chris:

I load mine with 3 inch #4 buck and it weighs a ton, the recoil is amazing with my Spec Op's replacement stock though!

ERdept
09-15-2009, 10:19 AM
It's so heavy, you practically need a bipod for prone shooting.:D
It's so heavy, if I was on a boat, I could use it for a anchor.:D
It's so heavy, I'm thinking of selling it, and getting a Remington 870 Police Magnum:(


He ain't heavy, he's my brother.

ALCO HK
10-12-2009, 8:09 PM
Nice and tasteful

jonni
10-13-2009, 8:48 AM
do they sell the spx ghost ring sites + rail separately?

Black Majik
10-13-2009, 9:57 AM
I must say, I've never wanted a Mossberg like I do now.

That is just plain awesome, congrats on the shotgun :thumbsup:

Dirtbiker
10-13-2009, 10:30 AM
It's so heavy, you practically need a bipod for prone shooting.:D
It's so heavy, if I was on a boat, I could use it for a anchor.:D
It's so heavy, I'm thinking of selling it, and getting a Remington 870 Police Magnum:(

Don't go thinking the 870 Police is any lighter. I have one and fully loaded it weighs a ton.

rct442
10-13-2009, 10:32 AM
do they sell the spx ghost ring sites + rail separately?

Most modern 500/590's receivers are setup for a rail. They cost about $25-40. I know XS Sight Systems sells add-on ghost rings for Rem 870/Moss 500s, but they cost around $100-150 and require a gunsmith to install them.

http://www.mesatactical.com/images/150.jpg

Midian
10-13-2009, 10:35 AM
Boy...imagine if it got to the point where you had to stab someone with your shotgun!

jmf_tracy
10-13-2009, 11:05 AM
does that little nub with the hole in it come off? I just ordered the same shotgun last week and wanted to put a surefire fore end on it but it says the light might hit. Do you have any input on that?

don't do it! been there, done that and returned the surefire. yes you will have to grind off the bayonet lug:( i miss my lug although i would not use a bayonet on my shotgun. i took a 4 day shotgun class at front sight and had to remove the surefire fore end and replace the stock fore end. after shooting a bunch with the surefire, it really hurt my thumb that was riding against the square button on the sure fire unit. take my advice and forget that surefire fore end, unless you just want to be tacticool.

jonni
10-13-2009, 2:41 PM
Most modern 500/590's receivers are setup for a rail. They cost about $25-40. I know XS Sight Systems sells add-on ghost rings for Rem 870/Moss 500s, but they cost around $100-150 and require a gunsmith to install them.

http://www.mesatactical.com/images/150.jpg

but can you buy the actual spx ghost ring sights separately and mount the rear sight to the rail?

rct442
10-13-2009, 3:26 PM
but can you buy the actual spx ghost ring sights separately and mount the rear sight to the rail?

Sorry, I guess I misunderstood your question. The SPX sights are manufactured by LPA in Italy. They are the OEM manufacturer for Benelli & Beretta shotgun sights.

First you need to purchase the rear sight (Part# BAR11W) $132.60 Here (http://www.precisionsights.com/Product/BAR_product_page.html)

http://www.lpasights.com/immagininuove/bar11w.jpg

Then you have to purchase the front sight (Part# SG4) $71.70 Here (http://www.precisionsights.com/Product/SG_product_page.html)

http://www.lpasights.com/immagini/sg4m1b.jpg

You have the choice of a plain front post, tritium, or fiber optic. Mine has the fiber optic post (Part# M1F) like in the picture.

http://www.lpasights.com/shtase_foto/m1b-t-f.jpg

The rear sight looks like you can just attach it to the receiver yourself with the included screws. The front sight has to be welded in place. That is gonna run you over $200 + labor for the gunsmith.

Jerry X
10-16-2009, 8:03 PM
Sweet gun!

kemper
04-21-2010, 1:33 PM
Sorry, I guess I misunderstood your question. The SPX sights are manufactured by LPA in Italy. They are the OEM manufacturer for Benelli & Beretta shotgun sights.

First you need to purchase the rear sight (Part# BAR11W) $132.60 Here (http://www.precisionsights.com/Product/BAR_product_page.html)

http://www.lpasights.com/immagininuove/bar11w.jpg

Then you have to purchase the front sight (Part# SG4) $71.70 Here (http://www.precisionsights.com/Product/SG_product_page.html)

http://www.lpasights.com/immagini/sg4m1b.jpg

You have the choice of a plain front post, tritium, or fiber optic. Mine has the fiber optic post (Part# M1F) like in the picture.

http://www.lpasights.com/shtase_foto/m1b-t-f.jpg

The rear sight looks like you can just attach it to the receiver yourself with the included screws. The front sight has to be welded in place. That is gonna run you over $200 + labor for the gunsmith.

i have this exact shotgun....anyone ever put a truglo on the front site post? i imagine the tritium one would give you the same effect though....

KentuckyThunder
02-27-2011, 6:07 PM
Greetings from Kentucky fellow 2nd Amendment loving Americans :)

I seen this thread and wished to add some information that I hope may help.

I have talked with the owner of PSI who carry LPA sights and the company is really great to buy from. Very helpful people.

http://www.precisionsights.com/Product/TACTICAL_product_page.html

Anyway, a gunsmith is not needed for installing the BAR Tactical series, but a little good ole' ingenuity and small amount of work is needed, but when your done, you can very easily have a professional job with the feeling of doing it yourself.

A few tools you will need. Please note, this I am referring to is for a Rem 870, but should be not much difference then with a Mossy, and assuming its not the newer tactical models with pre drilled and tapped holes.

#1. A drill press being hand drills you can drill at an angle accidentally. Keep in mind, a good drill press is nice to invest in for future projects, and also for roll crimping shotshells when hand loading if you use slugs or over shot cards, when a star crimp doesn't work. A decent bench top one can be great, low budget and preform all you need, such as 15 pellet 3" #00 mag cheddite hulls

#2. Vise, preferably a cross slide vise as to keep your parts clamped but still be able to move the x-y axis from hole to hole your working with.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Cross-Sliding-Vises-3-/H0966

#3. HSS #28 and HSS #31 drill bits

http://drillbitwarehouse.com/home?page=shop.browse&category_id=25

#4. HSS 8-40uns tap and possibly an HSS 6-48uns tap "second one usually I found that most rails accept if you wish to put a rail on"

http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/21681/

#5. Small can of Tap Magic cutting fluid. It helps the bit cut metal like butter and float chips out as not to clog which risks breakage with in hole.

#6. Good center punch and scribe for marking metal, along with a thin colored tape for marking off edge to work from.

Before starting, if anyone is interested, HSS means "High Speed Steel". Using any other type will most likely burn your bit as fast as you begin to start cutting. The receivers are a moderate carbon steel and HSS is perfect for this. Also, make sure you set your pullys/belts for your RPM's properly. The basic formula for this is suggested cutting speed times 4 and that quantity divided by the diameter of your cutting tool, as such...

[{cutspeed}*4]/Dia.=RPM

Being low/mid carbon steel is suggested at around 100

Usually for this operation its most likely going to be your highest speed. I keep mind at 3050RPM for this. This is only to try and keep the best craftsmanship in your shotty :)

Please remember this golden rule... take your time!

First unload, then totally disassemble shot gun so your receiver is completely apart. Many small metal chips will be flying and dont want hiding in an assembled parts.

The measurement is next for your rear sight assuming your going with the BAR Tactical. Find your center is vital then gently scribe a line, place a straight edge on top to find where the radius just starts to come down then tape off with a high visible tape.

I like to go about 5mm past the radius just to make certain I don't ride or bump the radius. I figure 5mm forward isn't going to hurt anything.

Place your rear sight on just where the back of body touches the tape you marked off. Use tape as a place holder for your measurements. Make sure its good so far, then with a straight edge, taking your time, measure each side to make sure both have equal distance. Never hurts to double check. Measure twice, cut once kind of deal. measure and mark for the 3 holes. Two are set screws while middle is just a clearance.

Center punch, mound on vise and drill accordingly. #28 drill bit. The center, clearance hole calls for a 6-48UNS threaded screw clearance to be able to pass through which will require a #31 drill bit, but I like to drill just a touch bigger for clearance for the adjustment screw in the center. This won't hurt anything as no pressure in that area under your receiver.

After drilling, gently tap the two holes for set screws with your 8-40uns tap. Its critical to make sure you go in straight. I use a piloted spindle tap that mounts on a drill press and leave receiver in the vise then tap by hand just to ensure I go perfectly vertical.

http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/14613/

It's not needed, but its really nice to pop in the chuck, disengage the belts on drill press so chuck moves freely by hand, then guide your tap perfectly vertical. I use the #0-1/4" which is perfect size for most all jobs I need in home gunsmithing.


Use a decent amount of tap magic. Although they are HSS taps, you still dont want to break one off because their a bear to get out. But with HSS drills and taps and using the proper size drills and your tapping fluid you shouldnt have any problem.

Clean, de-burr but make sure you DONT countersink when deburring. Then screw in to test, it should be exactly where you want.

The front sight requires taking the old bead off. I think with mossy's they just unscrew, but with rem870's you need a torch because they have a base and silver soldered on. Just enough heat to melt the silver solder off. Let cool then gently sand smooth, as not to sand the barrel itself, only any left over solder.

Using heat you will need to refinish your shotty, but hey, who doesn't want to put a new coat on to make it stand out after doing something real cool to it? I found using KA gun coat or especially duracoat is cheapest, but also easiest as it just sprays on with an air brush then let sit for 30 days to cure. Then its resistant to jet fuel etc being their the hot new gun finishes on the market today

http://www.lauerweaponry.com

Hope this helps out because nothing sweeter then a really cool shotgun that everyone drools about, that you did all yourself.

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n534/KentuckyThunder/shotty/06_full.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n534/KentuckyThunder/shotty/000_0958.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n534/KentuckyThunder/shotty/front.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n534/KentuckyThunder/shotty/rear.jpg