Reloading for Max Barrel Life - .243 Win

[Ugly Dwarf]

I recently bought a Rem 700 SPS Varmint in .243. I'm planning to use it for punching paper or ringing steel at distance a couple times a year, and possibly taking a long range course or two.

I don't plan to compete at this time and don't expect to shoot more than about 500 rounds a year out of the gun, but I would like to get as many years of use out of the barrel as can be reasonably done. I've read of people using up a .243 barrel in 1500 rounds, and of others getting good results well past 3000. I imagine some (much) of that is due to some people loading hot to squeeze as much velocity as possible, but really can't be sure based on what I've read.

Since I'm new to this gun (and cartridge), I plan to work up loads with several bullets ranging from 58 grain (V-Max) to 105 grain (A-Max), along with a number of other weights / mfg's (Berger and Sierra) in between (using two - three different powders for each bullet weight). In theory, I'll be leaning towards the heavier (higher BC) bullets, given my intention to use this at longer ranges 400+ yards, but I'll want to see what shoots best for me in this gun.

That said, what is the theory on what uses up a barrel (specificially in .243 / 6mm) fastest? Light bullets going really fast or heavy bullets going pretty fast? Perhaps it is more a case of run at lower pressures with any given bullet to maximize barrel life? Alternatively, I imagine it could be a case of certain powders (faster vs. slower) burning up the barrel.

As a side note, the rifle comes with a 1 x 9 1/8" twist barrel. From what I've gathered, this should shoot bullets up to 95 grains quite well, but is a little too slow for the 105-115 grainers. Any comments on shooting the really high BC bullets through the Remington barrel?

Any thoughts or real world observations are welcomed.

Thanks,

Dwarf

[Fjold]

Barrels wear out usually through throat erosion first. This is due to the amount of heat generated in the throat region and the amount of time that the heat is applied.

To maximize the life of the barrel use powders on the slower side of the burning rates and try not to fire long strings of shots without allowing your barrels to cool between shots.

[Bend]

To expand on Fjold's post-

Use somewhere close to the max bullet weight that your twist will stablized. Also, use a slower powder that fills the case to 95-100% capacity after the bullet is seated.

Don't worry at all about bullet speed, a moderate speed (with its moderate pressures) will maximize throat life. And, the high BC with the heavy bullet will give you higher speeds at long range compared to a lighter bullet anyway.

See this (http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=48608#Post48608) and pay attention to Ken Howell.

ETA: I agree with the 95 grain target bullets:

http://www.bergerbullets.com/Products/Target%20Bullets.html

[Ahhnother8]

Barrels are consumable, just like powder and bullets. Try H1000 with heavy bullets, and it should last a little longer. Might want to look at this too: http://www.usrifleteams.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8538&hl

[Beelzy]

3 Rules for long barrel life.

1. Avoid light bullets
2. Avoid fast burning powders that don't nearly fill up the case
3. Avoid the dreaded "Max" loadings.

[packnrat]

what about using the ceramic coating products?
Any good or just junk?

.

[Ugly Dwarf]

To expand on Fjold's post-

Use somewhere close to the max bullet weight that your twist will stablized. Also, use a slower powder that fills the case to 95-100% capacity after the bullet is seated.

Don't worry at all about bullet speed, a moderate speed (with its moderate pressures) will maximize throat life. And, the high BC with the heavy bullet will give you higher speeds at long range compared to a lighter bullet anyway.

See this (http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=48608#Post48608) and pay attention to Ken Howell.

ETA: I agree with the 95 grain target bullets:

http://www.bergerbullets.com/Products/Target%20Bullets.html

Bend,

Thanks for the link to Ken Howell's thoughts on slow burning powders in large cases with lower peak pressures. A very interesting read... one that confirmed some thoughts I'd had about this.

That one was good enough to bookmark in my favorites.

The 95 grain Bergers are on my 'test list'. I understand Berger Bullets like to be seated almost into the lands, but as a handloader in a bolt gun I can play with COL to find what works best.

Dwarf

[capitol]

On the other side..

I've been working up loads for my new R-25 .243. Im shooting hot 55gr nbt's and 60gr Sierra HP's.

Im getting 3850 fps on a regular basis with a 60 grain pill.

Problem is the barrel is fouling real bad after about 20 rounds and the accuracy goes to hell.

I've found my load after 350 rounds. I know they're barrel burners, but it's a hunting rifle and it wont be shot all that much from this point on.

Look out Wiley... cause its DRT time when I drop a 60 grain hollow point going 3850 fps on yourself :yes:

[Ugly Dwarf]

Barrels are consumable, just like powder and bullets. Try H1000 with heavy bullets, and it should last a little longer. Might want to look at this too: http://www.usrifleteams.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8538&hl

Ahhnother8,

I'll agree that barrels are consumables, and I expect I'll need to rebarrel this gun someday, but I'd like to make what I have last as long as is reasonable.

I've also heard stories (like the one you linked to) about replacing barrels on very accurate rifles, only to have them become not so accurate rifles. I suspect that is uncommon, but still a concern.

I'll look into getting a pound of H1000 for load testing.

[Bend]

UD-

"That one was good enough to bookmark in my favorites."

If you are going to bookmark that tidbit, you might as well get the whole enchilada. (http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/2167163/page/1#Post2167163) :cool2:

Yep, start the Berger's as close to the lands as you can get. Adjust from there.

[r08ert209cali]

I have heard good things about using the outers foul out 2 cleaning system to help prolong barrel life mostly by reducing amount of fouling left in barrel. Shooting out a barrel is a consern of mine as well. I have a 204 ruger running around 3800-4075 fps. It shure did blow up a jack rabbit today though:83::83::angel:

[Ugly Dwarf]

UD-

"That one was good enough to bookmark in my favorites."

If you are going to bookmark that tidbit, you might as well get the whole enchilada. (http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/2167163/page/1#Post2167163) :cool2:

Yep, start the Berger's as close to the lands as you can get. Adjust from there.

Thanks a lot... I was getting ready to log off for the evening, but now you've given me HOURS more reading to do.;)

Do you have one of these .220 Howell's? Sounds like it'll play hell in dogtown.

[Southpaw45]

Use Hodgdon Varget powder. Hodgdon claims this powder doesnt generate the high heat like other rifle powder does and will help save your barrel from premature wear. I dont load 243 Win but I use it for 308 Win and I can tell you after a string of about 10 rounds in 5 minutes, the barrel barely warms up compaired to other powders I have used..

[Bend]

No 220 Howell. For longer shots, its a 264 Winmag (28 inch barrel) with 140g Berger VLD's at 3200 fps using H50BMG.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/Kirtmc/264winmag.jpg

[r08ert209cali]

^^^^^^^^^^^^ NICE RIFFLE^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Ugly Dwarf]

Use Hodgdon Varget powder. Hodgdon claims this powder doesnt generate the high heat like other rifle powder does and will help save your barrel from premature wear. I dont load 243 Win but I use it for 308 Win and I can tell you after a string of about 10 rounds in 5 minutes, the barrel barely warms up compaired to other powders I have used..

Thanks for that. I'll look into Varget as well.

IIRC, Varget is a stick powder, so it may not meter well through my 550B powder measure. I've had decent luck with other stick powder weight consistancy, but not as well as ball powders (which probably burn faster and are less suitable to what I want, darn it)

[Ugly Dwarf]

No 220 Howell. For longer shots, its a 264 Winmag (28 inch barrel) with 140g Berger VLD's at 3200 fps using H50BMG.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/Kirtmc/264winmag.jpg

That's a good looking rifle in general, and a very nice looking stock.

For the record, I had to give up on reading those FUP links you posted last night and looked through them some more this morning. Lot's of stuff there to be sure and some good discussion.

[Bend]

UD-

Thanks for the compliment on the pic. What should have gotten your attention was the speed of the bullet and the very slow powder used. :D

[Ugly Dwarf]

UD-

Thanks for the compliment on the pic. What should have gotten your attention was the speed of the bullet and the very slow powder used. :D

Oh, I caught that too.

I'll admit that I'm a little jaded about pushing bullets fast, since my .300 Wby pushes 180 grainers at 3100 FPS. I suspect yours is more fun to shoot all day long.

I've had some very accurate results (for me - consistant POI, 3 shots in 3/4" at 100 yards) pushing 178 grain A-Max's at "hot .30-06" or light .300 Win Mag velocities - far below max loads for the cartridge and not as punishing to shoot. I get similar results close to max loads too. One of the reasons I got that gun was to have the ability to load up or down for whatever I may want to hunt - but typically found myself using conventional wisdom and published data when working up loads. Of late, I have found myself shooting near full power loads (3050 fps), but less of them - done mostly out of the thought to get proficient with one load, rather than playing with many.

Contrary to this discussion (large charge of slow powder), it was with AA 4350 (faster than both AA3100 and 8700). Of concern for me on these ligher loads has always been that 4350 does not nearly fill the cases at lower pressures. I never had a lot of luck (1.5-2" at 100 yards) with the latter two powders in my gun, though I'll admit that I may not have put enough time (1 pound of 3100 and 2 pounds of 8700 - two or three bullet weights) into either. Given the success I had with full and partial charges of 4350, it seemed like wasted time and money.

I am very intrigued by Mr. (Dr.?) Howell's discussion of slow powder, full case capacity, and low pressure loads doing great things. These thoughts will be central in my initial load development for the .243.

[Bend]

H1000 or Retumbo should do the trick in the 300 Roy and they are not temp sensitive. See the Hodgdon site.

Yea, Howell shows a new/safer and more economical (brass lasts a lot longer) line of thought.

[Ugly Dwarf]

H1000 or Retumbo should do the trick in the 300 Roy and they are not temp sensitive. See the Hodgdon site.

Yea, Howell shows a new/safer and more economical (brass lasts a lot longer) line of thought.

I found a good deal and now have a good stock of powder for my wby... a supply that may out last my barrel. It works well and the loads have proven accurate to 600 yards (the longest I've gone).

The economy can end up being a trade off when you go with a larger cartridge for the same job. You spend less on brass and barrels, but you spend more on powder. I don't think of powder as expensive, but in the case of the .220 Howell vs. .220 Swift, it looks like you end up using about 20% more powder, and that can add up quick in the bigger cartridges.

That said, I'm looking forward to seeing what I can do with this new train of thought. If I can get 90-95% of the velocity and excellent accuracy, at significantly lower C.U.P., it will probably be a good trade off.