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View Full Version : LMT UPDATE. I just broke my new LMT lower. Somebody help me or shoot me...


skkeeter
01-26-2009, 8:02 PM
I broke it trying to remove the trigger guard pin. All my other lower pins came out easily, but the LMT one have some kind of unremovable pin that I didn't realize. A few hits with a pin punch and the tears started flowing. What will make the tears stop? Somebody know who can fix it? Please help!!!!!



http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq65/pablo4surf/IMGP1016.jpg

5968
01-26-2009, 8:05 PM
That sucks!:censored:

Your picture doesn't work...

C.G.
01-26-2009, 8:07 PM
Since that is not a load area, JB weld should do just fine.

5968
01-26-2009, 8:08 PM
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq65/pablo4surf/IMGP1016.jpg[/QUOTE]

Ouch. I have no idea what you could do to fix it, or if it can even be fixed.

Next time, put a little oil on the roll pin and keep it supported.

hawk1
01-26-2009, 8:08 PM
His picture works and it still sucks.:eek:

Now, did you really need to take it off?

strangerdude
01-26-2009, 8:08 PM
buy another one asap!

5968
01-26-2009, 8:09 PM
His picture works and it still sucks.:eek:

Now, did you really need to take it off?

Well it works now!:p

technique
01-26-2009, 8:09 PM
magpul miad FTW!!!!!!!

chuck762
01-26-2009, 8:09 PM
Ouch Not much you can do other than maybe run a magpul maid grip with the built in trigger guard and epoxy the broken piece on for looks.

Maybe find someone who can weld but 7075 is not an alloy that welds well.

Sleepnosis
01-26-2009, 8:09 PM
Might be time for a MIAD...

Flying Bones
01-26-2009, 8:10 PM
Shat! Ima watch out for that. Wow. Were you using a 16 penny nail or phillips screwdriver?
I would JB weld that bad boy. No problem at all.

IBUYGOLD
01-26-2009, 8:11 PM
JB Weld.. if your carefull you will never know it happened.

TIP:Use the 24 hour stuff not the 1 hour stuff. That will give you more time for clean up.

stphnman20
01-26-2009, 8:11 PM
Super glue! :p

Yeah MIAD is your only option..

technique
01-26-2009, 8:12 PM
You should support that area (I use a block of wood) while tapping in/out the roll pin.. Just for future reference.

Biff...
01-26-2009, 8:12 PM
JB weld that and use a sharpie. Won't be the pretiest oll, but still works.

oldrifle
01-26-2009, 8:13 PM
Tough break, man! :eek:

You can have that piece TIG welded back on. I wouldn't bother with JB Weld because it'll just break again eventually. You will have to re-anodize your lower if you want it to look the same again though.

skkeeter
01-26-2009, 8:14 PM
Thanks guys for the speedy help. I think I'll try some JB weld. The pin that was installed in the trigger guard was solid. I couldn't drill it out for my life. I think Lmt uses secret forged steel harvested from alien spacecrafts.

stphnman20
01-26-2009, 8:16 PM
Ah damn your in NorCal.. If you were her in SoCal I'll give you some JBweld.. I have a bunch..

jksupplyco
01-26-2009, 8:18 PM
Dude,

LMT can fix it. Get ahold of them, send it back and get it done right. If it can't be fixed, they will scrap it, and send you another lower with your serial number.

Flying Bones
01-26-2009, 8:18 PM
Tough break, man! :eek:

You can have that piece TIG welded back on. I wouldn't bother with JB Weld because it'll just break again eventually. You will have to re-anodize your lower if you want it to look the same again though.

Hmm...if I wasn't a pioneer of 101 jb weld uses I might go for this. Have you had problems with the stuff? I usually sand and clean everything with carb cleaner, let sit for an hour or so and then use the 24hr JB for excellent results. I'm sure a welder is better but if you grow up Po as dirt like I did this was the only chance of keeping your junk going.

+1 JK Supply for best advice.

BroncoBob
01-26-2009, 8:21 PM
I would do what Ryno says send it back for repair.

skkeeter
01-26-2009, 8:26 PM
Dude,

LMT can fix it. Get ahold of them, send it back and get it done right. If it can't be fixed, they will scrap it, and send you another lower with your serial number.

This does sound like the best idea. I swear to god there wasn't a normal roll pin in there.

oldschool88
01-26-2009, 8:38 PM
Hmm...if I wasn't a pioneer of 101 jb weld uses I might go for this. Have you had problems with the stuff? I usually sand and clean everything with carb cleaner, let sit for an hour or so and then use the 24hr JB for excellent results. I'm sure a welder is better but if you grow up Po as dirt like I did this was the only chance of keeping your junk going.

Agreed, the JB Welded part will be as strong or stronger than the original if done right. But definately try to send it back to get it done right if at all possible.

devildog999
01-26-2009, 8:39 PM
Wow, I feel your pain, kinda ;)

sorry to see that, that realllyyyy blows :(

g17owner
01-26-2009, 8:45 PM
That blows
For this you deserve
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g250/fr8owner/Fail/TruckOfFail.jpg

skkeeter
01-26-2009, 8:52 PM
That blows
For this you deserve
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g250/fr8owner/Fail/TruckOfFail.jpg

Head down, shoulders slumped, I deserve all the criticism you guys can throw at me. I almost didn't want to post this out of embarrassment, but the thought of not knowing what to do is punishment in it's own right.

Linus
01-26-2009, 8:55 PM
JB weld that ****!!!

tenpercentfirearms
01-26-2009, 8:59 PM
If you call LMT about this, you are going to really need to kiss a lot of butt. They might or might not take it in. I was talking to one of their sales guys and he was saying guys do this all the time and he usually recommends using a MIAD and you can hardly notice.

I am sorry to hear about your loss.

mvpatriot
01-26-2009, 8:59 PM
Chris at BSP was just telling me this happened to one of his customers. I never realized how important reinforcing that area with a wood block actually is.
And the way most use the block you would think it wouldnt work.

norcal-ar
01-26-2009, 9:05 PM
call them and maybe you can send that one in and get another with the same serial # and maybe they'll show you some love?

g17owner
01-26-2009, 9:06 PM
It will be okay. We all forgive you:D

gidddy169
01-26-2009, 9:23 PM
I saw this done once and to fix it they used JB weld but they drilled a little hole into the lower and the broken ear and placed a piece of steel between them for added strength. Probably not really necessary that is what was done.

12voltguy
01-26-2009, 9:25 PM
break out the TIG, weld file paint/duracoat done

Fate
01-26-2009, 9:28 PM
Everything is fixable with DUCT TAPE! :D

skkeeter
01-26-2009, 9:31 PM
Everything is fixable with DUCT TAPE! :D

And bailing wire!!

Vinz
01-26-2009, 9:32 PM
I know a guy in Paradise that can tig that up real nice.


Vinz

pat4wd
01-26-2009, 9:34 PM
Jb weld is by no means a good fix in my book.. and no where near as strong as the original metal.. Take it to someone and have it tigged and re shaped.. Jbseems to be a lot of people favorite here but I think it is junk:D JB weld IS how you fix it when you dont want to fix it right

oldrifle
01-26-2009, 9:36 PM
Hmm...if I wasn't a pioneer of 101 jb weld uses I might go for this. Have you had problems with the stuff? I usually sand and clean everything with carb cleaner, let sit for an hour or so and then use the 24hr JB for excellent results. I'm sure a welder is better but if you grow up Po as dirt like I did this was the only chance of keeping your junk going.

+1 JK Supply for best advice.

I think JB weld will certainly hold the two parts together well, but in order to get a really strong "weld" you have to glob a lot of the stuff on. If he wants it to also look good, ie not covered with a giant blob of JB Weld, he's better off welding it.

+1 on letting the manufacturer deal with it though.

ar15barrels
01-26-2009, 9:46 PM
magpul miad FTW!!!!!!!

Yep.
That's the solution.
Magpul Miad and a little black silicone to fill in the gap.

csmintel
01-26-2009, 9:49 PM
sell it as is on gunbroker for a little less and git a new one.

skkeeter
01-26-2009, 9:49 PM
So far, from all your advice. I think I will JB weld it with a small pin connecting the broken piece to the receiver. When that's done, install the Magpul Miad and use it until everything calms down and LMT decides to fix it for me down the road. Seems logical, right?

a1fabweld
01-26-2009, 9:58 PM
PLEASE DO NOT JB WELD IT!!!!!!!! I get people all the time bringing stuff in that has been JB welded (which fails 9 ot of 10 times) & it makes the repair VERY difficult & sometimes impossible. All those little peaks & valleys in the break will get plugged up with that crap & most likely you'll have to dig very deep to remove all traces of it to get a sanitary weld which will make a very small fix like that a mess. It's the equivalent of washing your car with WD-40 before you paint it. The weld will be contaminated. Aluminum repairs/welds are very sensitive to contaminants. I can TIG weld it for you if you are interested but you will have to have it stripped & anodized again. But once you JB weld/epoxy it you're committed to that method, if it fails, you might have screwed up your chances of welding it.

bohoki
01-26-2009, 9:58 PM
i'll give you $100 for it

ersatz
01-26-2009, 10:05 PM
Contact LMT first and see what they'll do, worse they can say is no. Tell them that a number of people on various forums told you to contact them to see if they could perhaps either fix it or give you a new one with same serial. Might help to persuade them knowing you could post negative reviews of their CS. If that fails just go with the MIAD and be thankful that it didn't breal a part of the lower that is vital to it's function.

pat4wd
01-26-2009, 10:11 PM
PLEASE DO NOT JB WELD IT!!!!!!!! I get people all the time bringing stuff in that has been JB welded (which fails 9 ot of 10 times) & it makes the repair VERY difficult & sometimes impossible. All those little peaks & valleys in the break will get plugged up with that crap & most likely you'll have to dig very deep to remove all traces of it to get a sanitary weld which will make a very small fix like that a mess. It's the equivalent of washing your car with WD-40 before you paint it. The weld will be contaminated. Aluminum repairs/welds are very sensitive to contaminants. I can TIG weld it for you if you are interested but you will have to have it stripped & anodized again. But once you JB weld/epoxy it you're committed to that method, if it fails, you might have screwed up your chances of welding it.

It is not if it fail as when it fails.. the fist bump or 2 and it will be done.. JB weld is a hard expoxy.. thats it,, it glues things together.. it should not have weld in its title..:D

skkeeter
01-26-2009, 10:21 PM
Okay, new info, DON"T USE JB WELD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!! I'll use the miad for now and try to send it back to LMT.

oldrifle
01-26-2009, 10:21 PM
i'll give you $100 for it

I'll give you $110...

For the love of God, don't JB Weld that lower.

Seesm
01-26-2009, 10:33 PM
I can weld it for you... try to get them to replace it or have me weld it... I would NOT JB.. Sorry Bones... Well I would JB if I could not weld it... But I can weld it and re-anodize it as well... But try to get them to replace it first... But seriously I will buy it for the right price as well and fix it for myself....

bornproud
01-26-2009, 10:36 PM
break out the TIG, weld file paint/duracoat done

+1, If your in the Turlock area, I could help you out with that.

user5412
01-26-2009, 10:42 PM
MAID also... Next time use proper support for those pins, and a correctly sized punch.

truthseeker
01-26-2009, 10:42 PM
OUCH!!

That looks like something that would happen to me!

oldrifle
01-26-2009, 10:44 PM
I can weld it for you... try to get them to replace it or have me weld it... I would NOT JB.. Sorry Bones... Well I would JB if I could not weld it... But I can weld it and re-anodize it as well... But try to get them to replace it first... But seriously I will buy it for the right price as well and fix it for myself....

You do anodizing? Where are you located?

doughboy334
01-26-2009, 10:46 PM
sorta relevant... I think

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v44/flipmode/Funny/ducttapeposter.jpg

H2H
01-26-2009, 10:48 PM
I'll give you $110...

For the love of God, don't JB Weld that lower.

$150 here !! :)

ke6guj
01-26-2009, 11:12 PM
for those saying to weld it, I thought that 7075 was considered unweldable.

chuck762
01-26-2009, 11:21 PM
for those saying to weld it, I thought that 7075 was considered unweldable.

For the most part it is not weldable and a lot of people don't know that. Even if welded getting the lower re-anodized with a type 3 hard anodize will cost as much or more than a new lower.

JTROKS
01-26-2009, 11:21 PM
JB Weld it. If you do it just right peeps won't even notice it.

rkt88edmo
01-26-2009, 11:25 PM
Yarr! one eared pirate edition lower.

jeffyboy
01-26-2009, 11:31 PM
Do a search over on ar15. I recall reading over there about a fix that a member did on theirs. You might have to go through the archives to find it.

Vinz
01-26-2009, 11:35 PM
oh its 7075...your fact.....MIAD it is.

If you try to tig that it will crack around the repair.


vinz

Flying Bones
01-26-2009, 11:37 PM
I can weld it for you... try to get them to replace it or have me weld it... I would NOT JB.. Sorry Bones... Well I would JB if I could not weld it... But I can weld it and re-anodize it as well... But try to get them to replace it first... But seriously I will buy it for the right price as well and fix it for myself....

Shut I held an R6 together for 5 years through 3 gnarly crahses with JB weld, radiator, clutch cover, various mounts etc. etc. Oh yea, and that mini that got me in Motocross Action Mag had at least a tube holding it together.

But seriously Skkeeter...Seesm CAN fix this the right way...and while my way works...it doesn't even share a border with right.

X-NewYawker
01-26-2009, 11:40 PM
What were you doing this for again?

NSR500
01-26-2009, 11:44 PM
You don't need a MIAD...

You need this thing.

http://www.starkequipment.com/Images/SE-1_introduction.jpg

chuck762
01-27-2009, 12:01 AM
You don't need a MIAD...

You need this thing.

http://www.starkequipment.com/Images/SE-1_introduction.jpg

Looks like a solution to all the broken ears I see on here and arfcom.

skkeeter
01-27-2009, 12:22 AM
What were you doing this for again?

I was going to replace it with a magpul enhanced trigger guard. It seems like every other post contradicts the next one. Lots of good ideas though. I've done this three times before without a problem, but like I said, the pin from LMT was different from every other one I have seen before. I've built about 7 lowers and stripped a couple of them without problems. I guess I just got complacent or lazy thinking the things couldn't break. So, can this thing be welded or not? 7075 weldable????? I think I'll contact SESSm and see what he thinks. Thanks again everyone, I can't believe how friendly and helpful people are in the gun community. I wish it was like that everywhere.

NSR500
01-27-2009, 12:23 AM
IMO...

The MIAD is good for "Before" you break an ear. This Stark grip looks like a good solution for after you've broken an ear. It'll help prevent the ear from being broken again and keep you from looking at a broken ear and getting pissed off again. ;)

technique
01-27-2009, 12:38 AM
That ain't a bad grip, that would hide it well...

skkeeter
01-27-2009, 12:40 AM
You don't need a MIAD...

You need this thing.

http://www.starkequipment.com/Images/SE-1_introduction.jpg

I'LL TAKE IT. in feb that is........

Seesm
01-27-2009, 12:41 AM
For the most part it is not weldable and a lot of people don't know that. Even if welded getting the lower re-anodized with a type 3 hard anodize will cost as much or more than a new lower.

BTW anodizing does not cost more than the lower is worth... If you do one piece most will charge you a lot charge of like $50 bucks... butI can maybe work it down to make it right... But even at $50-70 bucks not more than your lower is worth... I have seen lowers come on throuogh the line a few times.

BTw I weld magnesium with aluminum rod and all sorts of other alloys...

I can't say I have welded 7 series for sure as all I do all sorts of stuff and sometimes do not know the material at all... Just gets to me and I weld it.

That small piece will be pretty tough to weld for sure as it is small and you have to hit aluminum with some heavy heat.

I think the only problem I can truly see is the welding rod will appear to match the piece (after welding) but when you anodize it it will be a different color than the lower itself...

So basically

6 series
7 series
magnesium
or other types "ALL" are a different color (slightly) when anodized...

I notice it most in hard Type 3 clear so far... And I am not a ano guy persay but my good friend owns a huge Anodize shop and he does all my stuff and I go in and sometimes work on my own stuff... I am not a "ano" guy but played one (on my stuff) for a few hrs more than a few times...

If you have production needs I can line you up with a good deal and great workmanship... Good anodize is not a simple deal... I have tried all sorts of ano shops and chose this shop... Now we are good buddies.

Anyone that needs anodizing I can do it for you at his shop...

Just PM me... I live in Auburn 35 miles east of Sacramento.

YOu can ship stuff to me and I can get it done fast.

ar15barrels
01-27-2009, 12:46 AM
BTW anodizing does not cost more than the lower is worth... If you do one piece most will charge you a lot charge of like $50 bucks...

$50 to strip AND anodize?
Damn, hook me up with your shop.
That would be over $100 down here to strip the old anodizing and then re-anodize a lower.

sorensen440
01-27-2009, 12:51 AM
as others have mentioned give lmt a call
worst thing they can say is no...

Seesm
01-27-2009, 12:56 AM
Randall let me know how many you have to do and I will get a full on detailed deal for you.. The last time I saw a lot charge (mind you I do not pay my bills my brother or lady covers the office stuff) it was $50

Again let me know what your in need of and I will see how good of a "hook" up I can get for your stuff...

ar15barrels
01-27-2009, 1:05 AM
Randall let me know how many you have to do and I will get a full on detailed deal for you.. The last time I saw a lot charge (mind you I do not pay my bills my brother or lady covers the office stuff) it was $50

Again let me know what your in need of and I will see how good of a "hook" up I can get for your stuff...

Lot charge down here runs $60 to $90, but that assumes raw aluminum.
Previously anodized parts have to be stripped before they can run them again.
That adds costs.

chuck762
01-27-2009, 2:09 AM
BTW anodizing does not cost more than the lower is worth... If you do one piece most will charge you a lot charge of like $50 bucks... butI can maybe work it down to make it right... But even at $50-70 bucks not more than your lower is worth... I have seen lowers come on throuogh the line a few times.

BTw I weld magnesium with aluminum rod and all sorts of other alloys...

I can't say I have welded 7 series for sure as all I do all sorts of stuff and sometimes do not know the material at all... Just gets to me and I weld it.

That small piece will be pretty tough to weld for sure as it is small and you have to hit aluminum with some heavy heat.

I think the only problem I can truly see is the welding rod will appear to match the piece (after welding) but when you anodize it it will be a different color than the lower itself...

So basically

6 series
7 series
magnesium
or other types "ALL" are a different color (slightly) when anodized...

I notice it most in hard Type 3 clear so far... And I am not a ano guy persay but my good friend owns a huge Anodize shop and he does all my stuff and I go in and sometimes work on my own stuff... I am not a "ano" guy but played one (on my stuff) for a few hrs more than a few times...

If you have production needs I can line you up with a good deal and great workmanship... Good anodize is not a simple deal... I have tried all sorts of ano shops and chose this shop... Now we are good buddies.

Anyone that needs anodizing I can do it for you at his shop...

Just PM me... I live in Auburn 35 miles east of Sacramento.

YOu can ship stuff to me and I can get it done fast.

For pricing I was using this as a guide http://techplate.com/firearms_pl.htm (towards the bottom)
Maybe not as much as a lower a todays inflated prices but close is you ad in shipping.

From most of the things i have read 7075 is not a easily weldable alloy and should not be welded in a structural application.

Q
01-27-2009, 2:53 AM
At least others can learn from it. Long ago, I was going to build up a lower but didn't have the tools. I was going to use standard home repair tools till I saw similar pics. The ears are really fragile without the trigger guard. Possibly the only weak point in the ar lower design besides tiny springs and detents that can vanish.:p It would be cool if LMT sent you a new one or one with a minor repair cost.

randy
01-27-2009, 5:40 AM
Strip it down and take it to a welder it's not a big deal to fix. If it gets discolored then you'll need to get it refinished.

Max-the-Silent
01-27-2009, 6:21 AM
JB weld, file and refinish.

If you do a good job, nobody will know but you.

tenpercentfirearms
01-27-2009, 6:32 AM
I am just preparing everyone for the distinct possibility LMT might say no. I say call them and ask too, but be ready for a "Sorry, that one was your fault".

If LMT won't do it, then I would get that alternate grip. I think once you put it on, you will largely forget about it.

X-NewYawker
01-27-2009, 7:10 AM
I was going to replace it with a magpul enhanced trigger guard. It seems like every other post contradicts the next one. Lots of good ideas though. I've done this three times before without a problem, but like I said, the pin from LMT was different from every other one I have seen before. I've built about 7 lowers and stripped a couple of them without problems. I guess I just got complacent or lazy thinking the things couldn't break. So, can this thing be welded or not? 7075 weldable????? I think I'll contact SESSm and see what he thinks. Thanks again everyone, I can't believe how friendly and helpful people are in the gun community. I wish it was like that everywhere.

That sounds like a textbook warranty violation.
I'd like to hear what they say when you ask them to fix or replace it.

RECCE556
01-27-2009, 8:00 AM
Just curious but was this a factory complete lower or a lower that someone installed a parts kit on? Was the roll pin a "split" pin or a REAL roll pin?

I suspect that this was a non-factory assembled lower (nothing wrong with that) and that the assembler used a SPLIT pin (like the ones from DPMS) which are WAY oversized. I've seen this problem happen often when people try to install/un-install split pins.

dfletcher
01-27-2009, 8:33 AM
How about this - do the JB weld AND do a drill & tap of a small screw vertically from the outside bottom of the trigger guard into the lower. Aluminium is easy as heck to tap, the upward pressure of the screw will help support that bottom edge and as mentioned, the broken aluminium has enough peaks & valleys to give alot of grab. And I don't think anyone would even notice that extra black screw.

Maybe instead of JB Weld you can use Acraglass bedding compound, color it black and not even need to do any Duracoat, AlumaHyde touch up.

megavolt121
01-27-2009, 9:23 AM
Why are all of you recommending a Magpul MIAD?

I don't see how that would solve the problem of the broken trigger bar piece (for a lack of better words)

trinydex
01-27-2009, 9:42 AM
he would then be able to use the enhanced trigger guard front strap piece. this means he won't forever be stuck with a triggerguardless lower.

mecam
01-27-2009, 9:44 AM
Braze it with Alumaloy or HTS-2000 rod. :thumbsup:

skkeeter
01-27-2009, 9:44 AM
Just curious but was this a factory complete lower or a lower that someone installed a parts kit on? Was the roll pin a "split" pin or a REAL roll pin?

I suspect that this was a non-factory assembled lower (nothing wrong with that) and that the assembler used a SPLIT pin (like the ones from DPMS) which are WAY oversized. I've seen this problem happen often when people try to install/un-install split pins.

I ordered it through Cold War Shooters as a complete assembled lower. I'm pretty sure that LMT assembled it at the factory. It was definitely not a regular roll pin(I've removed many of them without problems). It was solid through the center of it. After I broke it off, I tried to drill it out and it broke 2 small drill bits . I couldn't even drill into it at all. I'm going to call LMT soon, and I'll let everyone know what they say..................

Gator Monroe
01-27-2009, 9:46 AM
Braze it with Alumaloy or HTS-2000 rod. :thumbsup:

Sounds like sound advice (Elaborate with pics:chris:)

Mississippi
01-27-2009, 9:52 AM
How about this? Buy another one cause you know you wont be happy with a repair. If you would have been happy with fixer ups you would not have spent more to have a LMT marked lower.

ar15barrels
01-27-2009, 10:23 AM
II'm pretty sure that LMT assembled it at the factory. It was definitely not a regular roll pin(I've removed many of them without problems). It was solid through the center of it.

THIS is a roll pin:

http://www.micromatic.com/images/3/300x300/100-302.jpg

THIS is a split pin that most people wrongly call a roll pin:

http://www.nuttybolts.com/catalog/images/PRO-Roll%20Pin.jpg

ar15barrels
01-27-2009, 10:25 AM
Why are all of you recommending a Magpul MIAD?

I don't see how that would solve the problem of the broken trigger bar piece (for a lack of better words)

Look at the one in the middle with the integral triggerguard:

http://www.rainierarms.com/img/shop/product/a122bd84b10a39218442a888ea36c563.jpg

It does not require the use of the rear pin.

mecam
01-27-2009, 10:37 AM
Sounds like sound advice (Elaborate with pics:chris:)

Go to Youtube.com and search for aluminum brazing. It's really easy to do and clean.

trinydex
01-27-2009, 10:41 AM
why not just clean to bare the parts that need to be welded. weld the ear back on and then hit it with some flat black. it's just an ear on a lower, whose gonna call the fashion police if you don't re-ano?

ar15barrels
01-27-2009, 11:37 AM
why not just clean to bare the parts that need to be welded. weld the ear back on and then hit it with some flat black. it's just an ear on a lower, whose gonna call the fashion police if you don't re-ano?

Did you miss the part about 7075 not being weldable?

trinydex
01-27-2009, 12:23 PM
i did miss that part...

iolair
01-27-2009, 1:28 PM
I stumbled upon this article awhile back whilst researching another subject and it relates to a process called friction stir welding.........looks somewhat interesting/promising:

http://www.springerlink.com/content/g38285373170t876/

John

trinydex
01-27-2009, 1:30 PM
don't you need to spin or otherwise agitate in order to friction weld?

ar15barrels
01-27-2009, 2:03 PM
don't you need to spin or otherwise agitate in order to friction weld?

I get agitated quite easily.

iolair
01-27-2009, 2:46 PM
don't you need to spin or otherwise agitate in order to friction weld?

Well, sort of.......according to the article, a special built cylindrical welding tip is rotated and plunged into the joint line.

John

X-NewYawker
01-27-2009, 2:54 PM
What I want to know is where is the line to SHOOT you?
:cool:

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p54/Fasanoland/LMTGP.jpg

trinydex
01-27-2009, 3:01 PM
Well, sort of.......according to the article, a special built cylindrical welding tip is rotated and plunged into the joint line.

John

from what i know of friction welding, i was under the impression that there is not welding instrument.

one of my engineering profs at ucla pioneered some sort of friction welding that was used in making formula racecar valve stems. they used two disimilar metals and friction welded them by just spinning them and pressing them together. it made an almost seemless bond between two totally different metals. i didn't think there was an actual welding tip or anything.

does this article document some new or altered process?

ar15barrels
01-27-2009, 3:08 PM
What I want to know is where is the line to SHOOT you?

Get in line behind the arfcommers.

iolair
01-27-2009, 3:10 PM
does this article document some new or altered process?

http://www.springerlink.com/content/g38285373170t876/

skkeeter
01-27-2009, 5:56 PM
Well, I finally got home to a message from LMT. Unfortunately, I'm out of luck on this one. They said I should use the right tools for the job next time. That I should find somebody who know how to weld aluminum and grind it down and weld it back on. Not sure if he knew about not being able to weld 7075 or not. He did express remorse for my situation in his message. Hey, at least they called me back and gave me an answer. Looks like JB weld for now with the miad grip, and then the SE-1 grip when it comes out in February. I shot the lower today with my new LWRC M6A2 upper with wonderful results. The tears have stopped and I'll rest easier tonight. Lesson learned the hard way. Thanks again everyone........

xdimitrix
01-27-2009, 6:13 PM
Braze it on. The fact that it is 7075 is irrelevant if you are brazing it.

Gator Monroe
01-27-2009, 6:16 PM
Braze it on. The fact that it is 7075 is irrelevant if you are brazing it.

I like that idea (Why are posters here not receptive to this?)

Timmay
01-27-2009, 6:18 PM
I glanced through this thread and just got to say man, do not JB weld it. I would throw a MIAD on it and leave it be. For those of you who say JB weld will make it stronger, well your just stupid. Not to start a flame war here, but you deserve it for handing out stupid advice. Even if you did a some what decent JB job, you will still break it again. And yes you can glob it on (and never see that piece again) and it would stay put but it would look like straight booty. Once you get that Stark grip it will cover all that area.

asheron2
01-27-2009, 6:21 PM
Weld it, they are saying not to weld it because the weld will be weaker than the parent material. This shouldnt be an issue as long as you arent removing the roll pin(split pin) a bunch and it will also be supported by the pin and the grip if you choose to use the MIAD.

7075 IS weldable, its just weaker afterwards along with less corrosion resistance.

To be more specific too, TIG weld it.

mecam
01-27-2009, 6:32 PM
I like that idea (Why are posters here not receptive to this?)

Maybe people get intimidated by using a torch? :p

Here's a cool vid on how to braze aluminum.

mMADiAMfe00

wash
01-27-2009, 6:35 PM
That tab is very small.

It would take a very good welder to do anything that doesn't look like an aluminum booger hanging off the lower. If I did it, it would probably look like an aluminum booger hanging off of a really big aluminum booger.

The very best case of a weld repair would be a discolored receiver and a large bill for labor.

If it were mine, I would just wait for that new grip and perhaps use a screw to hold in the trigger guard until then.

asheron2
01-27-2009, 6:41 PM
That tab is very small.

It would take a very good welder to do anything that doesn't look like an aluminum booger hanging off the lower. If I did it, it would probably look like an aluminum booger hanging off of a really big aluminum booger.

The very best case of a weld repair would be a discolored receiver and a large bill for labor.

If it were mine, I would just wait for that new grip and perhaps use a screw to hold in the trigger guard until then.

With a tig welder you should be able to weld very very tiny, but just lacking in penetration. Since this is for aeshetic reasons that should be acceptable for this project.

Ive seen 2 coke cans cut in half welded togethor, no joke! Lots of these guys who do it are outstanding at their jobs.

mecam
01-27-2009, 6:46 PM
Ive seen 2 coke cans cut in half welded togethor, no joke! Lots of these guys who do it are outstanding at their jobs.

How about brazing a hole in a soda can.

gBRyoEf8Ihc

asheron2
01-27-2009, 6:48 PM
How about brazing a hole in a soda can.

lol now thats awesome

waltmoe
01-27-2009, 7:08 PM
Sorry to hear about your broken lower.. The JB weld sounds like a good idea. Once it's set you can probably use a Dremel tool and take your time and blend it in real nice.

This happened to a friend of mine, it was the last time. We purchased a EXTRA-LARGE BENCH BLOCK from Brownells and it does a nice job of supporting the trigger guard area when removing the roll pins I also purchased the Front Sight Block. No more chances in cracking a part.

Good luck and sorry it happened.. Here is a photo of the Bench Block, cheap insurance
http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww356/waltmoe/IMG_1619-1.jpg.

trinydex
01-27-2009, 7:41 PM
the brazing ideas look pretty win, anything wrong with doin' that?

skkeeter
01-27-2009, 7:45 PM
the brazing ideas look pretty win, anything wrong with doin' that?

Is it anything like sweating copper tubing? I can sweat copper all day long.

ar15barrels
01-27-2009, 7:55 PM
Is it anything like sweating copper tubing? I can sweat copper all day long.

Brazing is very much like soldering, but you won't have the joint that wicks the solder like you do with a fluxed pipe connection.

mecam
01-27-2009, 7:57 PM
Is it anything like sweating copper tubing? I can sweat copper all day long.

Yep, if the temp is right, it just flows like water and SUPER strong once cold. Preparation is key.

chuck762
01-27-2009, 8:05 PM
I glanced through this thread and just got to say man, do not JB weld it. I would throw a MIAD on it and leave it be. For those of you who say JB weld will make it stronger, well your just stupid. Not to start a flame war here, but you deserve it for handing out stupid advice. Even if you did a some what decent JB job, you will still break it again. And yes you can glob it on (and never see that piece again) and it would stay put but it would look like straight booty. Once you get that Stark grip it will cover all that area.

Super genius, people are saying use the maid and epoxy the ear back on to make it look like whole again, not to epoxy it on by itself and have it hold up.
Plenty of people have already done it and it works so calling people stupid is uncalled for.
You are now on the ignore list.

Timmay
01-27-2009, 8:35 PM
Super genius, people are saying use the maid and epoxy the ear back on to make it look like whole again, not to epoxy it on by itself and have it hold up.
Plenty of people have already done it and it works so calling people stupid is uncalled for.
You are now on the ignore list.

Wow, your quick on the gun. If you read some of what people were saying, not all of them were talking about the utilizing the MIAD grip with the JB fix. I still stand by my comment, and my professional opinion being an Aerospace Sheetmetal (Airframer) and all for the last um..9 years. So I think I know a thing or two. This forum is about opinions and IMO people throwing out ideas to others (who do or don't know any better) is asking for trouble. Putting JB weld on it is stupid, IMO. Welding or any sort of brazing will heat up a cold forged part, causing a drastic reduction in the structural integrity of the surrounding metal, including the weld itself. I agreed with the MIAD grip because with the front strap having a built in trigger guard there is no need for it to be secured from the broken area. Once he purchases the other grip that whole area is completely covered. Another point to mention (like other members have) is the skill required to do that fix is up there (don't forget about aesthetics). So the cost probably will out reach the cost of a new grip. Once again these are my opinions, take it how you like but I was in the right for calling some peoples advice stupid. Especially when we all know there are people out there who will do the first thing someone suggests, even if it's outright wrong, dangerous, or stupid. I'm not here to flame, but I feel I was in the right to make my comments considering the potential outcome.

skkeeter
01-27-2009, 8:36 PM
I'm going to give this stuff a try, We'll see what happens. I just placed an order with them. I might or might not use this stuff on my lower. But it sure does look handy for around the shop and home repairs.

www.aluminumrepair.com/shopping/shoperror.asp

Gator Monroe
01-27-2009, 8:40 PM
Super genius, people are saying use the maid and epoxy the ear back on to make it look like whole again, not to epoxy it on by itself and have it hold up.
Plenty of people have already done it and it works so calling people stupid is uncalled for.
You are now on the ignore list.

Am I on your list ?:chris:

Seesm
01-27-2009, 9:01 PM
Jb weld is cool and has its place for lots of reasons like out on a trail (with your dirtbike) when something goes sidways and you need to fix it now and fast and have nothing to fix it with.

But on something like a gun or rifle I say it is stupid too.. Now mind you I do not work in aerospace but I have for the last 15 years been a fabrication guy with training and slef taught on things that I need to be.
I am not as clean as some of my employees but I do production welding (tig) for parts I ship around the world... So pretty nice work. :)

Anyway I am willing to help if need be...

Some say the 7 series aluminum is not weldable... it is, it may be harder but it is possible and would be a different hardness after welding than it was before... BUT again possible.

It needs to be heated up to ensure it welds easier. (like all aluminum)

Anyway that miad (sp) grips looks like a decent idea to fix it kinda...


Ok I am out. And I bet I am on more than a few peoples lists... :)

chuck762
01-27-2009, 11:59 PM
Am I on your list ?:chris:

Do ya want to be? :D

Capt. Speirs
01-28-2009, 8:24 AM
JB weld, BMW uses it to repair aluminum cylinder heads under warranty.

trinydex
01-28-2009, 8:29 AM
really?

ar15barrels
01-28-2009, 8:56 AM
JB weld, BMW uses it to repair aluminum cylinder heads under warranty.

Prove it.
That's factory authorized?

Monoz
01-28-2009, 10:34 AM
Prove it.
That's factory authorized?

My recollection is that 1991 to 1993 3-series had problems with head gaskets failing and the heads pitting from corrosion. The factory authorized fix was to remove the failed gasket, fill any pitting with JB Weld, and then install an improved gasket design. YMMV.

P.S. - Randall, any ETA on getting your website up again?

Social Casualty
01-28-2009, 10:48 AM
Since that is not a load area, JB weld should do just fine.

I second the JB weld, In times like this it works wonders. You might want to as well drill a fine hole and dowel it with a steel pin for longevity.

Mississippi
01-28-2009, 11:14 AM
I glanced through this thread and just got to say man, do not JB weld it. I would throw a MIAD on it and leave it be. For those of you who say JB weld will make it stronger, well your just stupid. Not to start a flame war here, but you deserve it for handing out stupid advice. Even if you did a some what decent JB job, you will still break it again. And yes you can glob it on (and never see that piece again) and it would stay put but it would look like straight booty. Once you get that Stark grip it will cover all that area.

Stupid? Thats pretty harsh words for a new guy with a low post count.:rolleyes:

Gator Monroe
01-28-2009, 11:23 AM
Do ya want to be? :D

Dem/Lib & "True Liberal" Libertarians here at CG who woted Obama are A**clowns ... That work ?:chris:

AKman
01-28-2009, 11:46 AM
Dem/Lib & "True Liberal" Libertarians here at CG who woted Obama are A**clowns ... That work ?:chris:

How does one "wote" Obama. Wote is a town in Kenya and is the capital of the Makueni District in the Eastern Province. Are some CGers planning to send Obama back to Wote?

Gator Monroe
01-28-2009, 11:49 AM
How does one "wote" Obama. Wote is a town in Kenya and is the capital of the Makueni District in the Eastern Province. Are some CGers planning to send Obama back to Wote?

I wanted to offend the Grammar Nazi's too ...:chris:

Capt. Speirs
01-28-2009, 1:29 PM
Prove it.
That's factory authorized?

Group /Engine -Bulletin Number 11 10 93 (3885)
Woodcliff Lake, NJ November 1993 Product Engineering.
This Service Information bulletin supersedes orange S.I. 11 10 93 (3885) dated October 1993, which should be removed from your S.I. binder and discarded.
SUBJECT;
Coolant Leak from Timing Case Profile gasket MODELS E30 and E36 with M42 Engine Situation. A coolant leak may be detected coming from the front area of the cylinder head and upper timing case sealing surface due to a deteriorated rubber timing case profile gasket.
Correction;
New timing case profile gaskets with an optimized rubber material composition
have been phased into production on E36 (M42) vehicles as of approximately 10/93 If a coolant leak is detected coming from the front area of the cylinder head and upper timing case, the cylinder head should be removed from the engine as per procedures outlined in the Construction Group Repair Manual, Group 11, and the profile gaskets should be replaced with the new optimized profile gaskets, Repair Note: If pitting is evident on the sealing surface in the area of the coolant passageway on the front of the cylinder head, repairs may be performed by using J-B Weld(R) cold weld compound (locally available). Following the manufacturer's instructions on the package, using a straight edge tool, i.e., razor blade, plastic trowel, etc., fill in the pitted area thus restoring a smooth sealing surface on the cylinder head. When applying the cold weld compound to the affected cylinder head sealing surface: use enough sealing compound to fill in the pitted areas of the cylinder head to restore the original sealing surface around the coolant passage. All excess sealing compound should be removed from the coolant passage area before it cures. To avoid additional machining of the cylinder head a smooth sealing surface should be achieved before the sealing compound cures. Do not reinstall the cylinder head until the sealing compound is fully cured according to the manufacturer's instructions. Parts Information. All old part number gaskets listed have been purged from PDC inventory and only the new part numbers are available. Old gaskets in dealer stock, P/N 11 14 1 721 806 and 11 14 1 721 807 should be returned to your facing PDC. When using the return system, use Tech 7 as the reason code. This return code will be valid until March 30, 1994. Currently, gasket sets used for E30 M42 engines, P/N 11 12 9 063 333

I did many many of those, the headgasket was a crap design.

ar15barrels
01-28-2009, 1:39 PM
Group /Engine -Bulletin Number 11 10 93 (3885)
Woodcliff Lake, NJ November 1993 Product Engineering.
This Service Information bulletin supersedes orange S.I. 11 10 93 (3885) dated October 1993, which should be removed from your S.I. binder and discarded.
SUBJECT;
Coolant Leak from Timing Case Profile gasket MODELS E30 and E36 with M42 Engine Situation. A coolant leak may be detected coming from the front area of the cylinder head and upper timing case sealing surface due to a deteriorated rubber timing case profile gasket.
Correction;
New timing case profile gaskets with an optimized rubber material composition
have been phased into production on E36 (M42) vehicles as of approximately 10/93 If a coolant leak is detected coming from the front area of the cylinder head and upper timing case, the cylinder head should be removed from the engine as per procedures outlined in the Construction Group Repair Manual, Group 11, and the profile gaskets should be replaced with the new optimized profile gaskets, Repair Note: If pitting is evident on the sealing surface in the area of the coolant passageway on the front of the cylinder head, repairs may be performed by using J-B Weld(R) cold weld compound (locally available). Following the manufacturer's instructions on the package, using a straight edge tool, i.e., razor blade, plastic trowel, etc., fill in the pitted area thus restoring a smooth sealing surface on the cylinder head. When applying the cold weld compound to the affected cylinder head sealing surface: use enough sealing compound to fill in the pitted areas of the cylinder head to restore the original sealing surface around the coolant passage. All excess sealing compound should be removed from the coolant passage area before it cures. To avoid additional machining of the cylinder head a smooth sealing surface should be achieved before the sealing compound cures. Do not reinstall the cylinder head until the sealing compound is fully cured according to the manufacturer's instructions. Parts Information. All old part number gaskets listed have been purged from PDC inventory and only the new part numbers are available. Old gaskets in dealer stock, P/N 11 14 1 721 806 and 11 14 1 721 807 should be returned to your facing PDC. When using the return system, use Tech 7 as the reason code. This return code will be valid until March 30, 1994. Currently, gasket sets used for E30 M42 engines, P/N 11 12 9 063 333

Thanks.
This further re-enforces my already low opinion of BMW's and BMW owners.

12voltguy
01-28-2009, 1:41 PM
Group /Engine -Bulletin Number 11 10 93 (3885)
Woodcliff Lake, NJ November 1993 Product Engineering.
This Service Information bulletin supersedes orange S.I. 11 10 93 (3885) dated October 1993, which should be removed from your S.I. binder and discarded.
SUBJECT;
Coolant Leak from Timing Case Profile gasket MODELS E30 and E36 with M42 Engine Situation. A coolant leak may be detected coming from the front area of the cylinder head and upper timing case sealing surface due to a deteriorated rubber timing case profile gasket.
Correction;
New timing case profile gaskets with an optimized rubber material composition
have been phased into production on E36 (M42) vehicles as of approximately 10/93 If a coolant leak is detected coming from the front area of the cylinder head and upper timing case, the cylinder head should be removed from the engine as per procedures outlined in the Construction Group Repair Manual, Group 11, and the profile gaskets should be replaced with the new optimized profile gaskets, Repair Note: If pitting is evident on the sealing surface in the area of the coolant passageway on the front of the cylinder head, repairs may be performed by using J-B Weld(R) cold weld compound (locally available). Following the manufacturer's instructions on the package, using a straight edge tool, i.e., razor blade, plastic trowel, etc., fill in the pitted area thus restoring a smooth sealing surface on the cylinder head. When applying the cold weld compound to the affected cylinder head sealing surface: use enough sealing compound to fill in the pitted areas of the cylinder head to restore the original sealing surface around the coolant passage. All excess sealing compound should be removed from the coolant passage area before it cures. To avoid additional machining of the cylinder head a smooth sealing surface should be achieved before the sealing compound cures. Do not reinstall the cylinder head until the sealing compound is fully cured according to the manufacturer's instructions. Parts Information. All old part number gaskets listed have been purged from PDC inventory and only the new part numbers are available. Old gaskets in dealer stock, P/N 11 14 1 721 806 and 11 14 1 721 807 should be returned to your facing PDC. When using the return system, use Tech 7 as the reason code. This return code will be valid until March 30, 1994. Currently, gasket sets used for E30 M42 engines, P/N 11 12 9 063 333

I did many many of those, the headgasket was a crap design.

nice German Quailty, JB weld Jerry Rig.
is that Special German made JB weld or american JB weld:43:

Seesm
01-28-2009, 1:46 PM
That is Riggy Jiggy and BMW thinks it's no BIGGY!! geez


I would NEVER us that stuff except in a emergency to get out of the desert or something... (well not on somethingI care about anyway..)

sierratangofoxtrotunion
01-28-2009, 2:52 PM
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq65/pablo4surf/IMGP1016.jpg

Anybody see what I'm seeing? The cracked area on the rest of the lower is black. Did the OP color that with a sharpie or something? Otherwise it looks to me like it was already cracked there when it was anodized, and that the MFG needs to replace this for free.

ar15barrels
01-28-2009, 2:57 PM
Anybody see what I'm seeing? The cracked area on the rest of the lower is black. Did the OP color that with a sharpie or something? Otherwise it looks to me like it was already cracked there when it was anodized, and that the MFG needs to replace this for free.

If it was cracked when it was anodized and the anodize bath actually leaked into the crack, don't you think both sides would be black?

Here's a hint: anodize bath does not creep into cracks very well, especially really narrow cracks.

skkeeter
01-28-2009, 3:00 PM
Anybody see what I'm seeing? The cracked area on the rest of the lower is black. Did the OP color that with a sharpie or something? Otherwise it looks to me like it was already cracked there when it was anodized, and that the MFG needs to replace this for free.

Yes, Black sharpie. Not the manufacturer. they won't help me anyway.

12voltguy
01-28-2009, 3:03 PM
Anybody see what I'm seeing? The cracked area on the rest of the lower is black. Did the OP color that with a sharpie or something? Otherwise it looks to me like it was already cracked there when it was anodized, and that the MFG needs to replace this for free.
ya you get right on that for us will you:rofl::rofl:

freonr22
01-28-2009, 3:13 PM
out of curiosity, couldnt you dill a tiny allen head capscrew through the bottom of the tang and thread it into the lower? i dont know what thread/size that would be but gunsmith do use tiny screws mcmaster carr has some really tiny ones http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=d06ag

kungfumanwayne
01-28-2009, 3:14 PM
i feel for you.

i did the same thing on a ameetec 6.8 lower that i got from the milpitas buy in 2005.. i ended up supergluing it and then sold it to my friend for $50.yes i did disclose the broken trigger guard area to my friend.. he put magpul grip to cover it up and then sprayed the entire receiver with kylon tan paint. its a beater but shoots great..

good luck

wayne

hung380
01-28-2009, 3:19 PM
Use a 4-40 button head screw and nut and screw them all together. The unbroken side should be able to hold everything together. I dont know how to load pics but i'll email you the picture now.

skale240
01-28-2009, 5:15 PM
I'm going to give this stuff a try, We'll see what happens. I just placed an order with them. I might or might not use this stuff on my lower. But it sure does look handy for around the shop and home repairs.

www.aluminumrepair.com/shopping/shoperror.asp


I've ordered from them...its pretty good stuff..i've used it to seal up leaks in an aluminum boat. don't try to melt the rod under the torch..it will just break up...the key is to let the parts your brazing melt the rod. heat up the metal to temp and it should stick on pretty good. you also have to make sure the surface is real clean. practice on scrap parts first too so you don't F'up on what your trying to braze.

Capt. Speirs
01-28-2009, 10:37 PM
Use a 4-40 button head screw and nut and screw them all together. The unbroken side should be able to hold everything together. I dont know how to load pics but i'll email you the picture now.

How to load pics;

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=86685

Monoz
01-29-2009, 3:27 PM
I know it looks like many people disagree, but if it were me I think I would go with the JB Weld or a generic 2-part epoxy, and I would do it soon.

Here are what I think are the "facts" of your situation:


The trigger ear is broken off of your LMT lower (bummer).
LMT is not going to fix/replace it for you (bummer).
The trigger ear has no structural purpose other than to hold a trigger guard in place.
Because a standard trigger guard is pinned to the trigger ear, it could put mechanical force on the trigger ear.
A LMT MIAD grip with included trigger guard does not pin to the trigger ears.
Some people have recommended welding, but the part is small, the weld would be tricky, the alloy is not conducive to welding, and reparkerising would be needed.


So, you have a broken piece that bears no load if you use a MIAD grip. Welding doesn't seem like an option. So I see no downside to trying to epoxy the part back in place. Yes, it will preclude trying to weld in the future, but it looks like that is already ruled out. The epoxy should be strong enough to hold that part in place, since it isn't acted on by any forces. If the epoxied part falls off in the future, you aren't any worse off than you are now.

I wouldn't wait too long. Even as you read this, an oxide is slowly growing on the surface of the aluminum. That oxide will make it harder for the glue to attach.

Henry47
01-29-2009, 4:21 PM
not sure if anyone has mentioned this, or if it's even feasible, but have you considered laser welding?

skkeeter
01-29-2009, 7:20 PM
not sure if anyone has mentioned this, or if it's even feasible, but have you considered laser welding?

Sounds like something from Star Trek, or something I couldn't possibly afford. Please elaborate:confused:

a1fabweld
01-29-2009, 8:50 PM
Take it to the range, tie it to your target, shoot the hell out of it. DONE! Seriously, whatever you do aside from welding it is going to be temporary. That magic aluminum brazing rod stuff is for the home handicap, I mean handyman. It doesn't penetrate into the material, it sits on top of it more like glue (JB Weld). Your lower can be welded. If you're really attatched to that particular lower then weld it or get that grip that covers the ear completely. Otherwise, just replace the lower & write the whole thing off as a learning experience. Someone mentioned above that aluminum is not a good conductor of current. You hold onto 2 pieces of aluminum wire while I insert them into a 110 socket & let's see what happens? :eek: This is very entertaining to see how people problem solve.

sierratangofoxtrotunion
01-29-2009, 10:36 PM
If it was cracked when it was anodized and the anodize bath actually leaked into the crack, don't you think both sides would be black?

Here's a hint: anodize bath does not creep into cracks very well, especially really narrow cracks.

ya you get right on that for us will you:rofl::rofl:

:rolleyes: Yes, I do think both sides would be black. And I do see some on both pieces. I don't know why the OP would sharpie the broken part but now we know he did, so that's fine. And yes, if it got anodized in the crack, it would mean that it was already cracked at that time, so yes it would be a manufacturer's defect and yes they'd need to replace it.

Seesm
01-29-2009, 11:16 PM
I keep telling you IT CAN be welded... ANY fab guy worth his weight can fix it ok... Perfect? nah but workable abd use dthat cover up pistol grip and trigger guard cover... Or sell it to me I want and NEED a lower now..cash in hand brother... Lets call this a day and make some bad choices (or good ones for me) :)

joelukehart
01-30-2009, 2:14 AM
Heliarc (TIG) weld it,dress it,bead blast it with aluminum oxide, then spray it with Norrell moly resin. JB weld is for amateurs.

X-NewYawker
01-30-2009, 7:23 AM
Superglue the piece together and then cover it with the MIAD grip. Done.

trinydex
01-30-2009, 8:17 AM
can you actually silver solder it? how good is silver solder at holding stuff on? i know they use it for shotgun beads or something?

RedDawn
01-30-2009, 8:30 AM
Not everyone has access to a TIG welder. And yes, some of us are amateurs.:D

Heliarc (TIG) weld it,dress it,bead blast it with aluminum oxide, then spray it with Norrell moly resin. JB weld is for amateurs.