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roysroyce
12-14-2016, 3:57 PM
Hey guys, I just started reloading...
I've cleaned, de-primed, semi-resized (all 8 223's I've done so far were within 1.740 to 1.76) and am now seating the primers.
I've done 8 total :) (total in my reloading career)
I'm using a RCBS handheld primer tool that came w/ my rock chucker supreme kit.
First 8 seemed to work ok no issues and the primers seated correctly.
Did 8 yesterday, and started today and the first two I did didn't seem to seat correctly, almost like they tried to seat diagonally.

See picture link... Thoughts? As far as resistance goes, you can tell by the pic I had to press fairly hard to get it to seat like that. So it didn't feel normal either (normal according to my first 8).

Appreciate any expertise...

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/ebYk186tmhBbZLPrlkqJa2MDvV4Zw0PJohNpun13IPt

LeadFarmer74
12-14-2016, 3:59 PM
Did you swag the crimps from the primer pockets? If not the primers are hard to install and won't seat properly.

dwalker
12-14-2016, 4:01 PM
they flipped in the priming tool and went in sideways. Pay more attention to how your holding the priming tool, too much angle or a dip when you pick up a piece of brass can cause the primer to flip

OpenSightsOnly
12-14-2016, 4:13 PM
Check the rod that pushes the primer - make sure that the flat surface of the rod is the one that is pushing the primer not the "domed" surface.

Barbarosa
12-14-2016, 4:19 PM
Make sure you have the correct size primer plunger rod and primer sleeve inserted.

roysroyce
12-14-2016, 4:25 PM
Thanks guys...
Crimps... I've been hearing about those w/ the 5.56 and figured that if my case said 223 REM on it that I was safe... is that good enough? I did a quick search to try to figure out, "what a crimped case, de-primed" would look like. I'm still a little foggy, but there were no crimps on the case that I can see. I have other cases same manufacturer (that I picked up) and I don't really see a "crimp" in them.

Angled primer? I hear ya, I thought the same thing, so I tried to do my best to hold it upright on the second case, not saying that wasn't a factor, but I'll keep that note for future reloads.

Primer pin (domed vs. flat) checked that... not sure what the "domed" side is, but the primer tool is pushing up the primer on a flat pin.

I did another case, and the primer went in easy (as the others)... could I be missing something w/ the crimps? Are they easy to spot?

Also... I don't plan on shooting these "ugly seated primers" but for the sake of learning tolerances... do we agree I shouldn't shoot those? Toss em? De-prime?

roysroyce
12-14-2016, 4:30 PM
Can you tell if this case is crimped?
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/tClD35B11mS7cukY75vj9BcooK6sne7sxomux4zzgtz

Using Small Rifle CCI Primers and the small rifle pin / setup (white) in my RCBS hand primer tool.

LeadFarmer74
12-14-2016, 4:37 PM
Can you tell if this case is crimped?
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/tClD35B11mS7cukY75vj9BcooK6sne7sxomux4zzgtz

Using Small Rifle CCI Primers and the small rifle pin / setup (white) in my RCBS hand primer tool.

Wolf gold is 100% crimped. So from the picture below your brass is on the left and what you want is on the right.
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRVTumrhfticcDhmA8yBlM2iCW348wA6 UCpy0jCPMSfY2t4_oVA

roysroyce
12-14-2016, 4:45 PM
LeadFarmer... SO MUCH THANKS! and also the rest of you... i guess I couldn't make out what crimp was based on google images.

so image on the right looks like it has an inverted bevel... is that what I should look for?

And the fact that you told me all WOLF is crimped.

baih777
12-14-2016, 4:47 PM
Crimped, that ring around the primer pocket is what you look for.and yes. 223 rem cases might have been crimped.

Divernhunter
12-14-2016, 5:11 PM
I have a bunch of Rem 223 nickel cases and they had crimped/staked primers. I have run into this with some other cases also that had a 223 headstamp. I best tool is the Dillon Super Swager for removing the crimp or stakes.

Some brass will not have a full crimp. Some the primers are staked in several spots. Does the same as a full crimp and needs to be removed also before seating the primers.

roysroyce
12-14-2016, 5:12 PM
Much appreciated everyone... this was my first post in this forum, awesome experience with how fast I was helped!!!

santacruzgunner
12-14-2016, 5:21 PM
Ya you better just add primer pockets to your process. I just assume that they are all crimped. I use the lyman hand tool wish i had something with power though.

baih777
12-14-2016, 5:25 PM
Ya you better just add primer pockets to your process. I just assume that they are all crimped. I use the lyman hand tool wish i had something with power though.

See If you can remove the swager from the handle. Use a variable speed drill. Use zipties to hold the trigger.

mannyp
12-14-2016, 5:54 PM
Get a Dillon super swage if you have a lot of wolf cases to swage. If you are not doing a lot, there is an rcbs swager die that costs around 30+. It will be slower but it will do the job if you're not doing hundreds of cases.


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Fishslayer
12-14-2016, 9:50 PM
I best tool is the Dillon Super Swager for removing the crimp or stakes.


^^^ This. If you're going to be reloading any quantity of .223/5.56 it's the gear you want.

kcheung2
12-14-2016, 10:00 PM
As others have said those are the infamous crimped primer pockets. A circular ring is stamped around the pocket which displaces the metal & prevents the primer from popping out. I use a countersink bit in a power drill to cut it. Spinning it for half a second is all it takes.

https://www.amazon.com/SHANK-DEGREE-FLUTE-CHATTERLESS-COUNTERSINK/dp/B002J70VRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481781259&sr=8-2&keywords=countersink+1%2F4+x+82

or

https://www.amazon.com/Timberline-608-750-Titanium-Coated-Countersink/dp/B001UTYZD8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481781405&sr=8-4&keywords=countersink+1%2F4+x+82

JMP
12-14-2016, 10:01 PM
I prefer to use a powered chamfer/deburring tool with about a 90 degree head; that lets the primer guide right in. That's an alternative to swaging. Also, I do really like the RCBS hand primer, but it's not made well for changing out the shellholder. I'd recommend getting a dedicated shellholder for each priming tool, or get the universal tool for your smaller rifle cases. I use the universal for .223-.308 size bases, then keep a dedicated primers for Lapua and CheyTac brass. Then, keep a dedicated feeder tray for each type of primer you use. Then, you are ready to prime just about anything without any fussing around.

stilly
12-15-2016, 1:30 AM
Wolf gold is 100% crimped. So from the picture below your brass is on the left and what you want is on the right.
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRVTumrhfticcDhmA8yBlM2iCW348wA6 UCpy0jCPMSfY2t4_oVA


Do you realize what you just said? You posted a picture that someone took and said that was the WRONG way to do it, and you told him that was how he needed to do it...

Although I agree, use a countersink bit from HF in the 1/2" size or whatever and just touch the pockets with it for a second or so...

roysroyce
12-15-2016, 7:56 AM
Thanks guys, great info... I don't have a swag tool and found some (JMP listed above) that you COULD use an RCBS debur/Chamfer tool. I used this w/ the first 15 cases that I'll be reloading. It worked perfectly. I just gave it some light turns in the primer pocket and it provided a nice bevel in the pocket. Complete difference when putting the primer in. (seated like a champ).

I will probably pick up one of those dillion swag tools.

LeadFarmer74
12-15-2016, 8:11 AM
Do you realize what you just said? You posted a picture that someone took and said that was the WRONG way to do it, and you told him that was how he needed to do it...

I do realize that but I couldn't find a comparison picture with a crimp vs removed. So although it wasn't perfect I think the point still got across.

roysroyce
12-15-2016, 9:44 AM
I did get the idea LeadFarmer and Stilly... but glad you brought it up Stilly... I took a second look and now I see/realize that I have to be careful not to take too much off of the pocket when I'm ridding crimps.

How might I know how much is too much? I'm guessing if I took off A LOT then eventually the primer would seat, but also guessing there's a middle ground where I could take off too much and the primer would still seat.

what issues might I incur if this happens? Squib?

wbunning
12-15-2016, 9:46 AM
And remember-- you only have to ream/swage the primer pockets ONCE on your brass. You are not going to re-crimp the PP in your own reloading process.

AandO
12-15-2016, 10:12 AM
For what it is worth. I only reload range pick ups that do have a crimp. This is my assurance of the history of the brass.
.
I prefer having to decrimp....

roysroyce
12-15-2016, 11:40 AM
Good notes guys... AandO/wBunning... True that if it's crimped then I can be assured it's only once fired... (or FAIRLY sure)

stilly
12-15-2016, 12:18 PM
I do realize that but I couldn't find a comparison picture with a crimp vs removed. So although it wasn't perfect I think the point still got across.

LoL. okay.

I ALMOST PCPAINTED it in an attempt to FIFY. But then I thought, maybe there is something here I am not aware of. LoL.