If you are reloading for the first time....

[USN CHIEF]

Read and read the manual and also have someone that has the similar setup that you are getting give you a one on one demo on all the different stuff that you need to do.

I went ahead and spent a little over 2k on reloading gear. I taught I had everything that I needed but I am still missing a few things.

So far I have cleaned about 15k brass of .45/.223 and .308. and I have deprimed about 8k shells, In the process I have managed to break 2 depriming pins (one RCBS Universal Depriming Die Pin and one Dillon .223 depriming pin). And I also managed to get a case stuck in the dillon .223 die. I called Dillon and told them that it was my fault and needed to order another one and they told me that there was no need for that, to send in the one with the stuck case and that they would take care of it.

I was too eager to get started in reloading and did not not read the instructions 100%, that is where I made the mistake.

This will get really complicated if you do not read the instructions or if you have never seen the machine in action from set up to loading ammo. The caliber convertion kits are also some what confusing.

I think I have grown a few more gray hairs just trying to understand this machine. :(

I decided to walk away from the machine for a couple of hours and to read the manual a couple of times before I get back to it.

Just needed to vent. Sorry.

[LewDog]

Sorry to hear that man! Sounds like something I would do. I have a tendency to get overly excited about a new toy and just skim over the instructions. When it comes to reloading, whenever I get into it I want to watch someone who is experienced for a while to get down all the tricks and whatnot. Sounds like Dillon has pretty good customer service so I hope everything gets taken care of so you can get back underway. Goodluck!

[StraightShooter]

Dude, ive got 2 cases stuck in my dillon dies twice and they took care of it. In fact i even broke a stuck case remover trying to get one out. Tlak about frustrating. Dillon is an awesome company and even though i insisted on paying for it they covered it anyways both times. I know how youre feeling man. Once you get the hang of it you will be very happy with it. Dont use hornady oneshot or lyman spray lube. I use imperial sizing wax and it works amazingly.

[rksimple]

Never had a stuck case with Imperial. It takes a bit longer, but its the best.

Good luck with things Chief. Once you get that Dillon figured out you'll be a loadin' fool.

[Leon75x55]

That is why I started with a Lee single stage press. I figured it is not such a big investment up front, so if I do not like it I can walk away. But it is like an addiction; I started to buy more dies for most of my guns and can't stop. Now I'm like a junkie at a range collecting all of my brass. I am now looking at a progressive press or a lee turret press for an upgrade.

[bohoki]

with rifle stuff i lube with vasaline and resize with lee stuff their decap pins are great ive hit a few berdans because i was careless and they just pop up i loosen and re position and all is well

#1 most important thing in 223 and 308 is trim that brass

i have a gallon size ziplock bag and i put a generous dollip on my bare hand approx i tablespoon per 300 cases then just run my hand through the cases in the bag till they all are kinda slimy resize them then drop them in a pillowcase

after they are all resized i rub them in the pillowcase till they are fairly lube free then dump them out on a teeshirt and then rub the rest of the vasaline off it seems to come off pretty easy

then trim each and every one to their appropriate size 1.750 for 223 and 2.005 for 308

then run them through a progressive without a die in stage one

[rolly]

Read and read the manual and also have someone that has the similar setup that you are getting give you a one on one demo on all the different stuff that you need to do.

I went ahead and spent a little over 2k on reloading gear. I taught I had everything that I needed but I am still missing a few things.

So far I have cleaned about 15k brass of .45/.223 and .308. and I have deprimed about 8k shells, In the process I have managed to break 2 depriming pins (one RCBS Universal Depriming Die Pin and one Dillon .223 depriming pin). And I also managed to get a case stuck in the dillon .223 die. I called Dillon and told them that it was my fault and needed to order another one and they told me that there was no need for that, to send in the one with the stuck case and that they would take care of it.

I was too eager to get started in reloading and did not not read the instructions 100%, that is where I made the mistake.

This will get really complicated if you do not read the instructions or if you have never seen the machine in action from set up to loading ammo. The caliber convertion kits are also some what confusing.

I think I have grown a few more gray hairs just trying to understand this machine. :(

I decided to walk away from the machine for a couple of hours and to read the manual a couple of times before I get back to it.

Just needed to vent. Sorry.

I will be like you soon...just ordered "everything" ...lol

[hylander]

+1 :cool:

Dont use hornady oneshot or lyman spray lube. I use imperial sizing wax and it works amazingly.

[Spaceghost]

You should just start a blog on your reloading adventures Chief! We have been with you every step of the way. Of course, I now expect frequent updates and range reports of your ammo in the future. Carry on.

[ojisan]

Chief / anyone: this is a lot to do for the first time...(FYI: Dillion 650 for noob) always try to have someone who already knows your press help you set-up.
One step at a time, one die at a time, etc.
Still may take a couple days of tinkering and adjusting as you learn more and get it all just right. Breaking de-cap pins is part of life. Always have a spare or three.

[SchooBaka]

Chief / anyone: this is a lot to do for the first time...(FYI: Dillion 650 for noob) always try to have someone who already knows your press help you set-up.
One step at a time, one die at a time, etc.
Still may take a couple days of tinkering and adjusting as you learn more and get it all just right. Breaking de-cap pins is part of life. Always have a spare or three.

Yup. I picked up my new benchtop today. Gonna fix up the bench tomorow, setup the 650, then call my buddy who got me into reloading and loaned me the square deal b, to come help me setup the dies for the first time.
:cool:

[rayra]

The OP's experience is why I recommend new reloaders to get started on a single stage setup. It's very cheap to start that way, it takes more effort to make big mistakes, and you learn as you go (at a much more sedate pace).
The OP chose to jump fully in with the whole shebang, with a myriad list of things to learn and watch out for and is now relating problems and 'venting'.
He tried to run before he could walk.

I suggest the OP step back, focus on a singe goal / cartridge, and learn all his hardware from beginning to end with that cartridge. Preferably a pistol cartridge. Minimize teh number of variables you have to cope with, get comfortable with the basics of operation, establish a functional routine. Then branch out to different calibers and additional considerations.

And most of all do this so that you can achieve some minor successes and build upon them, instead of failing repeatedly out of the gate. Keep that up and your huge investment is likely to sit there gathering dust because you've managed to turn yourself off of the idea.

Good luck to you in re-starting.

[Jicko]

There are a couple of great YouTube video too.... go search!!

[Gunsrruss]

A Lee Progressive, and now I use the progressive as a single. I also use a Rock Chucker in the house for seating the bullets. I use the progressive on the work bench to size and decap. The best thing as for lube is the Dillon spray lube with an RCBS lube pad. Spray the lube on the pad and let it dry. Then roll brass one piece at a time on the pad and size and decap. It's been 6 years sense I have had a stuck case. I do thousands of pieces of brass a year. Also I prime using a RCBS hand primer. This way I can check each piece before it is loaded.

[Toolbox X]

I got my Dillon 650 a couple of months ago. It's my first press and my first experience reloading.

#1. Chief, the most important things you need to do, above anything else, is watch that VHS video for the 650. It will answer just about every question you have and show you all the little things you didn't realize you missed.

#2. Reloading rifle brass is ten times harder than reloading pistol brass. Randall has the hands down best method for reloading 5.56 ammo, but for us mere mortals I recommend these steps:
- Clean the brass
- Lube (I use the Dillon spray lube)
- Deprime/resize
- Clean the brass
- Trim/Chamfer (I use a Giraurd Trimmer)
- Swage (if necessary)
- Load (Use a Dillon universal decapping die in stage 1 to ensure the flash hole is clear)

I'm still a n00b at this, but that is my method.

[stevenjay1]

Chief, I wish I was in your area, I'd be more then happy to walk you through the process. I've been reloading for 45+ years and have it down to an art (I THINK!). You have gotten a lot of good advice so far but just be patient and take it slow. BTW, Dillon is GREAT and it’s been my experience that they will take the time to answer questions.

One other thing...I never did see a picture of the reloading bench/desk/table you finally got. How about it?.....Oh DUH! I just went down a few post and saw the pictures you posted, nice set up.

Steve

[kurac]

I am still using a single stage press and I started reloading in 1992. I spend the majority of my time inspecting, cleaning, lubing, sizing, triming chamfering, tumbling and then reinspecting brass. Actually loading the brass is the quick and easy part and takes the least amount of time. If someone can come up with a press to "prep" the brass then maybe I would move to a progressive.

[USN CHIEF]

The OP's experience is why I recommend new reloaders to get started on a single stage setup. It's very cheap to start that way, it takes more effort to make big mistakes, and you learn as you go (at a much more sedate pace).
The OP chose to jump fully in with the whole shebang, with a myriad list of things to learn and watch out for and is now relating problems and 'venting'.
He tried to run before he could walk.

I suggest the OP step back, focus on a singe goal / cartridge, and learn all his hardware from beginning to end with that cartridge. Preferably a pistol cartridge. Minimize teh number of variables you have to cope with, get comfortable with the basics of operation, establish a functional routine. Then branch out to different calibers and additional considerations.

And most of all do this so that you can achieve some minor successes and build upon them, instead of failing repeatedly out of the gate. Keep that up and your huge investment is likely to sit there gathering dust because you've managed to turn yourself off of the idea.

Good luck to you in re-starting.

Rayra, I did make the HUGE MISTAKE of not becoming a 100% familiar with the manual that came with the machine and did not spend a lot of time watching the VHS video carefully. But since then, I have read the manual and watched the video several times and I stayed up pretty late last night and started all over again without any problems. I feel a lil better now and a little more confident. I have been practicing doing caliber convertion on the Dillon 650 and it is getting easier and easier to do.

Now I am just waiting for my powder to get here to test if I did it right.

Here is my question. How many rounds should I reload and take over to the range to test them?

[xrMike]

Here is my question. How many rounds should I reload and take over to the range to test them?Assuming you're loading rifle rounds, what I do (for .223 anyway) is start at the minimum recommended powder charge for that combination of variables (bullet weight, powder choice, barrel length, etc, according to your reloading manual) and load 10 rounds very carefully at that minimum powder charge.

Then increase your powder charge by .5 grains and carefully load 10 more.

Do the same thing again, for 10 rounds, and again, until you have reached a powder charge that is no more than the maximum recommended, again according to your reloading manual. (Actually I don't even go to the maximum load; I usually stop a half grain, or even a full grain before that, because my primers start showing signs of over-pressure by then).

Assuming you're loading for .223, load them all to maximum mag length (2.26 inches). NOTE: You can always play with your seating depth later, to achieve best distance-to-lands, etc., AFTER you get your basic process dialed in.

Then I would take those rounds to the range and shoot them at 100 yards, bench rest, 1 group of ammo (all 10 rounds) per bull, and shoot like you were trying to acheive the best possible groups you've ever shot in your life. Use a good rest. Same cheek weld every time. Same body position. Do everything the same for each shot, for each group of 10 rounds.

Then retrieve your targets and see which powder charge gave you the best/smallest group. You don't care how close they were to the center, because you can always adjust your sights to get you there. You want to figure out which load gave you the tightest group. THAT is what you are after.

That's a good way to start for your first time out, with your first batch of reloads.

[Gnzrme]

Excellent load testing procedure....May I make a recomendation for the Caldwell Lead Sled....Its pricey for a sled, but well worth it and it will make sure that your rifle doesnt move...You use bags of lead shot or if you dont have that, use sandbags.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=152664

[SDJim]

Now I am just waiting for my powder to get here to test if I did it right.

Here is my question. How many rounds should I reload and take over to the range to test them?

Chief,

What powder are you looking for? I can help you out with IMR-4895, Bulls Eye, RL-15 and maybe some TAC.

[ar15barrels]

Chief-

In the beginning, don't load progressively.
Turn off the casefeeder and run one case at a time through the press.
Do this for a few hundred rounds so you can see what each station is doing.
Once you really understand and FEEL what's happening, start running two cases and then even three cases through the press at a time.
Eventually, you can turn on the casefeeder and get it all adjusted to go full progressive.

[Teletiger7]

Chief,

I just recently started reloading myself. What really helped was an experienced fellow calgunner who showed me how the machine works and how to properly set everything up . Also, like Randall said, understanding how the process works and what happens in each step really helps. Just take your time at first. It takes practice just like anything else. I am not nearly where I want to be in terms of speed, but learn the proper/safe way to do things first so that when you speed up later it will be safe and accurate. Good luck!

[Tho_Sun]

Dang,

I was thinking about picking up reloading because of my budget problem, but after reading about people spending 2k and having problems and all with out someone to show them the way, I'm kinda freaked out. Maybe it was a bad idea~

[Bruce3]

Dang,

I was thinking about picking up reloading because of my budget problem, but after reading about people spending 2k and having problems and all with out someone to show them the way, I'm kinda freaked out. Maybe it was a bad idea~

you don't save money you just shoot more :D

[ar15barrels]

you don't save money you just shoot more :D

A LOT more, for the same money.

[Tho_Sun]

Ha~

I hear that. So tell me, is $100 enough to start up reloading?

[ar15barrels]

Ha~

I hear that. So tell me, is $100 enough to start up reloading?

Not with any level of efficiency.

$500 will get you a good quality single stage setup, scale, dies and a couple manuals.
You should be able to load about 50 rounds per hour.

[Tho_Sun]

Ouch,

Thanks for the heads up Randell. Too much for a starving college student. Lol, I'll be going to chiropractic school soon. Maybe I can trade a back alignment for some equipment. Lol. Yeah, haven't choose a school yet, I'll be living off cup of nooooooodles and the oh so famous Top Ramen to pay for it~ :D

[ar15barrels]

$500 is really not that bad.
If you bought 500 rounds of federal gold medal match ammo, it would run you about $700.
You could re-load that same 500 rounds of match ammo for $200.
The reloading equipment pays itself off really quickly.
After that, you are shooting match ammo for 40 cents a round instead of $1.40 a round.

[ar15barrels]

$500 is really not that bad.
If you bought 500 rounds of federal gold medal match ammo, it would run you about $700.
You could re-load that same 500 rounds of match ammo for $200.
The reloading equipment pays itself off really quickly.
After that, you are shooting match ammo for 40 cents a round instead of $1.40 a round.

[ar15barrels]

$500 is really not that bad.
If you bought 500 rounds of federal gold medal match ammo, it would run you about $700.
You could re-load that same 500 rounds of match ammo for $200.
The reloading equipment pays itself off really quickly.
After that, you are shooting match ammo for 40 cents a round instead of $1.40 a round.

[Tho_Sun]

I'm actually looking to start reloading 9mm to start as a learning. I'll eventually go to reloading 7.62x54r though. Would a 9mm setup cost the same?

[ar15barrels]

I'm actually looking to start reloading 9mm to start as a learning. I'll eventually go to reloading 7.62x54r though. Would a 9mm setup cost the same?

About the same, but it takes a lot longer to pay off.
I'm loading 9mm for about $4 a box.

[Tho_Sun]

Thank you very much Randall. Maybe one day, if your up for it, can I watch you reload. Would be very nice to learn the process to see what I'll be getting myself into. :D I understand if your busy though.

[ar15barrels]

Thank you very much Randall. Maybe one day, if your up for it, can I watch you reload. Would be very nice to learn the process to see what I'll be getting myself into. :D I understand if your busy though.

Just pick a day...
I have presses that are always setup and can give demonstrations almost any evening that I am around.

[Tho_Sun]

Great, I'll let you know after finals. Do you like egg rolls or BBQ pork buns?

[Tony Sopranno]

I've been hearing a lot about different lubes. Imperial Wax Lube being the best hands down say many. Some use Imperial, some Dillon spray lube, and some like Vaseline.

I'm still very, very, new to this, but I started resizing with what I had around, and moly-grease worked well enough -- then a huge brainstorm: why not the lube-wax I use (very successfully) for my black powder revolver..???

I have tons of it around, so why not?

Anyway, I tried it and it worked really well, much smoother than the moly-grease or I would guess Vaseline. My thought is it will work as well as Imperial since it seems to be made of nearly the same kind of ingredients.

I was totally surprised at how smooth it ran though the Lee resizing die. I thought I'd throw this out for anyone wanting to give it a whirl.

Tony Sopranno's Re-Sizing Wax Lube

15% canning paraffin wax
35% beeswax
50% any kind of veggie oil or animal fat you can scrape up

and a smidgen of Murphy's Oil Soap

(I've used just about anything and everything for the fat/oil component from neatsfoot oil, to mink oil, to hamburger fat drippings, bacon grease, and olive oil.... but just plain old Crisco is good 'cause is easier to collect from the supermarket shelf.)

...Point being if it's veggie-oil or animal fat based it makes little or no difference.

After the two waxes are all melted down add the 50% oil-fat part and then a small tad of Murphy's Oil Soap as an emulsifier. I usually stop when the Murphy's smell is evident in the mix. This is the point where the emulsifier properties really take hold, and it makes a nice composite waxy-soap-oil mix. And nothing will ever rust or corrode when it comes into contact with this stuff. :TFH:

As it cools down in looks just like saddle soap but it smells pretty close to Murphy's Oil Soap -- and it's great stuff! I have a bunch of it here (poured into little breath-mint cans) for my BP gun so trying it out made lots of sense. It's probably a hassle to mix-up but if you have this stuff around, or feel experimental, give it a try. I doubt you'll be dissatisfied.


If I'm wrong please let me know, but for me this stuff seemed as smooth as "grease through a goose."

[Darklyte27]

Wow triple post!! haha

anyways, thats a good note to yourself and others who toss the manual to the side. I doubt anyone would ever learn everything all at once. Like all if not most things take time. Dont try to cram everything in a night either. It will come as you learn middle age grasshopper.

[mike100]

$2000 dollars...check

watch somebody else run your machine to start you along...check

booger a couple of components/machine bits...check

learning on a progressive and not having to upgrade equipment or spend your money twice...yep.

Give it six weeks and you'll be golden on the 650. Also, as suggested by most, get the hang of the machine on a straight walled pistol caliber like 45 acp or 38 spl or some such low pressure round.

Your account of your missteps sounds like it could have been written for me. Your almost there-just need to get the hang of how the machine drops powder and seats primers (btw, you can seat some spent primers to learn how the wheel and press pin goes on the primer feed.