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View Full Version : what good are gaschecks mainly 30 carbine talk


bohoki
10-08-2008, 01:55 PM
for my 30 carbine i was thinking about getting the lee mold,sizer and some gas checks to clamp on the bottom
because i heard some say that the hot burning gasses vaporize the lead on the base and cause lead to accumulate in the gas piston

but then i was reloading and it hit me that the fmj has an exposed lead on the back anyway so that hot gasses against the lead end holds no real validity

as with everything involving copper it has doubled over the last couple years and fmj costs more than $14 per 100 now this time last year i paid $70 for 1000

thinking about these items

http://www.natchezss.com/brand.cfm?contentID=productDetail&ammoGroup=0&brand=LE&prodID=LEE90364&prodTitle=LEE%20MOLD%20D%2FC%20309-120-R

http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=HO7070&src=sim

at 3 cents each are they worth it?


http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&ammoGroup=0&brand=&prodID=LEE90038

or should i get the .311 sizer?


just saw this little thing on a website

For lead alloy rifle bullets driven over 1500 fps, we seat gas checks on the base of the bullet to help with a pressure phenomenon known as "gas cutting". When the high pressure gasses slip past the bullet before it fully obturates in the bore, those gasses cut the base of the bullet. This blows molten metal forward of the bullet and coats the bore with lead, which the speeding bullet then irons onto the bore. This is one source of a leaded barrel. Other sources of barrel leading include improperly fitted bullets, improper bullet alloy, insufficient bullet lubrication and improper lubricant type.


it makes a little sense i guess but i dont get how the squishy lead can make enough gap to have hot gasses squirt by
yet copper seals the bore completly

rksimple
10-08-2008, 08:14 PM
I've used gas checked cast stuff in carbines over the years. It can build up in the gas port, but you can clean it out upon disassembly. Haven't had a carbine in a while, but I still shoot 165gr cast silhoutte bullets in my garand. They're doing about 2150 fps with a gas check and I don't get much leading. I use a hard alloy and quench them. Seems to work.

otteray
10-11-2008, 07:16 AM
+1 on the hard alloy and quenching.
If you do quench, size them and seat the gas check, asap.
If you wait to long, the thin, hardened layer will be work-softened when sized unless your sizing die is .001 larger than the bullet.
Maybe it's overkill; but sometimes I heat my bullets (after sizing) at 450 degrees F for one hour in a toaster oven, followed by quenching them, pan and all carefully lowered into a cold water bath. This hardens the lead throughout to about 19 BHN. Wheelweights are about 10 BHN when not quenched or heat treated (air-cooled.)
For a soft nose bullet, I then set several bullets in a pan of ice cold water with only the noses partially above the water level; take a butane torch and heat them for about a minute or just until they are almost ready to slump.
Takes some practice; but if you examine the noses afterwards, you can see a definite temperature color change in the lead where the water level was.
Go here for much more excellent cast bullet information:
http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

kurac
10-11-2008, 08:17 AM
I think if you have to go through all of this trouble to shoot lead out of an M1 Carbine, it might be faster, cheaper and better to just buy some USGI pull down FMS's or some new bulk commercial FMJ's

Snapping Twig
10-11-2008, 08:43 AM
Gas checks are a good idea on a rifle bullet, most especially if you intend to drive them at full velocity.

Many times a reduced load using pistol powder is exempt from appreciable leading, but for those of us who don't slug the bore and dial in the boolit to the specific firearm, gas checks are quite useful.

You should go here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

otteray
10-11-2008, 10:52 AM
I think if you have to go through all of this trouble to shoot lead out of an M1 Carbine, it might be faster, cheaper and better to just buy some USGI pull down FMS's or some new bulk commercial FMJ's
Absolutely! Faster; but not cheaper and not better.
It really sounds harder than it is.
A six bullet gang mold that puts out good well formed bullets and gas checking 'em are the only necessary additional steps to take.

bohoki
10-11-2008, 11:05 AM
I think if you have to go through all of this trouble to shoot lead out of an M1 Carbine, it might be faster, cheaper and better to just buy some USGI pull down FMS's or some new bulk commercial FMJ's

if i could find some more pull down "heads" i would

i bought 2000 from wideners a couple years ago and i'm down to about 400

and now the prices i se for 110 fmj are the same price as my fmj 308 projos and that dog wont hunt