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tteng
09-29-2008, 12:49 PM
Ooo-hooh! Shot a total of 15rds(out about 30 trigger-pulls) in 2hrs. and never had this much fun. This is my first experience w/ any front loader, and I earned a lot about flintlock (in particular, my repro. 50-cal Pennsylvania rifle by Traditions).

1. Almost any wet lube will work (spit, water, your homemade concoction...), and almost any patch will work (cotton ticking, undershirt...). I even tried nylon- as long as I have papar wad in between the powder and patched-RB.

2. For almost-instantaneous BANG, pick the vent hole (before priming) and make sure you can feel the powder inside the barrel, but keep the vent clear (if you can't, shove some priming powder into the barrel w/ the pick, again keep the vent clear). Otherwise, it could be click/flash/a heart beat/BANG. I think my rifle has a charge chute more ammenable to 3f powder than the 2f I'm using.

3. Bring at least couple flints bec. they do chip and get hammered by the vent discharge.

4. 60gr(vol) of 2f goex powder weighs about 60gr(wt). My home-made BP is about 40% lighter w/ the same volumn (and shot about 5-in lower than my goex-load at 50yrd)

5. My grouping is about 10-in at 50yrd, but it's all good bec. there were no miss/hang fire for the last 5 shots. The group should shrink once I start to play w/ the patch thickness and charge load.

savasyn
09-29-2008, 1:14 PM
Sounds fun! I've never tried anything like that and wouldn't have the first clue how to do it unless someone showed me.

What's the cost to get started on something like that?

Army GI
09-29-2008, 1:16 PM
:useless:

I'm not a front-loader shooter, but I am a black powder shooter. I own a Winchester 1886 and a Colt SAA and learning about and actually shooting black powder was an experience in and of itself!

I do play to eventually own other examples of black powder muskets, but that's when I graduate and make more money. I eventually want to own a Brown Bess, Kentucky long rifle, a Civil War rifled musket, and an 1873 Springfield.

tteng
09-29-2008, 2:01 PM
Take a look at dixiegunworks.com. I got my rifle thru an auction, and all my supplies at dixie (they sell rifle and rifle kits, too).

I think $5-600 will get you going (rifle, powder, ball, and accessories...etc).

If I do it again, the great-plain-rifle(GPR) will probably be a better choice for both range work and hunting (larger lock, balance better, more comfortable cheek/buttstock hold, heavier charge..)

They say your first ML should be a percussion, I thinks it's true if you're out hunting. But at the range, I think the flinter is more fun (I'm still working on 3shot/min, starting from 3 min/shot)

For shooting ML, muzzleloadingforum.com is a great source.

CSACANNONEER
09-29-2008, 3:17 PM
Congrats! It's a great feeling isn't it? For the life of me, I can't remember firing my first shot from an airgun or modern firearm. But, I can remember my first shot from the first smokepole I built and the first shot from the first FL I put together. You're hooked for life!

kmca
09-29-2008, 3:48 PM
If you really had fun shooting a rifle....wait till you get a chance to go bird hunting with a flintlock :D

NRAhighpowershooter
09-29-2008, 8:33 PM
Wifey bought me a CVA Buckhorn (50cal) for my upcoming B-day.. I plan on using sabots in it.......

saki302
09-30-2008, 4:21 AM
I used to have a kit built .44 percussion pistol. Even the cap pistol had the 'tick.. BANG!' on firing- I kind of liked it! Adds character :D
The percussion cap revolvers didn't have the same delay- shorter cap to powder gap I bet.

Make sure you clean them GOOD with hot water the evening of your shoot- they rust darn quick!

-Dave

Army GI
09-30-2008, 6:09 AM
Question for all you muzzle loading shooters: What happens if you can't ignite your loaded shot? Will the ball be stuck in the barrel?

tteng
09-30-2008, 8:15 AM
First, there is the ball-remover (a point-tip screw). Attached it to the ramrod, screw it into the ball and pull it out from the front.

If that dosn't work,

For percussion rifle, remove the drum (the fire-port screwed into the side of barrel breech), dig out contaminated powder and trickle in some powder into the breech, re-assemble, cap and fire.

For flinter, remove the vent-hole liner (most repro. flinter has a vent-hole liner screw into the barrel breech instead of direct-drilled into the breech), and repeat the above.

If that dosn't work,

Remove the breech plug from the barrel and go from there.

BTW, keep vent-hole and nipple clear of powder. BP (or it's substitute) is ignited by heat or flash. If the vent-hole is plugged up w/ BP, it'll act as a fuse: a major reason for delay or hang fire.

30Cal
09-30-2008, 1:17 PM
Quality flint should last a couple dozen shots. You'll need to touch them up to time to time. Pressing the frizzen down against the very tip of the flint will keep the flint square for a while before you need to resort to a hammer or other means. I have a 1/4" brass punch that I filed so that the last 1/8" has a sharp (maybe 0.015" deep) step. Place the step on the top of the protrudance and strike it.

I pick the vent after firing and then charge the rifle with a feather stuck into the flashhole. I fill the pan maybe 2/3rds full, the tip the rifle outboard and bump the stock so the priming ends up on the outside end of the pan. This makes it flash towards the vent.

I also had to do a little work on the vent (removeable in my case) to get consistant ignition. I ground a shallow cup immediately around the edge of the vent on the side facing the pan and opened up the inside (not the vent itself) with a drill so it has more of a deeper conical interior rather than a short cylindrical one.

You will need a patch worm and a stuck-ball-screw eventually.

CSACANNONEER
09-30-2008, 2:46 PM
Personally, I prefer to pressure knapping to percussion knapping on frizzen sized pieces of stone. That's probably because that's the way that I first learned to knap when I was learning to make traditional arrows many years ago. All you need for pressure knapping is either a copper point or a piece of antler and a piece of leather to protect you hand.

Army GI
10-01-2008, 8:38 AM
First, there is the ball-remover (a point-tip screw). Attached it to the ramrod, screw it into the ball and pull it out from the front.

If that dosn't work,

For percussion rifle, remove the drum (the fire-port screwed into the side of barrel breech), dig out contaminated powder and trickle in some powder into the breech, re-assemble, cap and fire.

For flinter, remove the vent-hole liner (most repro. flinter has a vent-hole liner screw into the barrel breech instead of direct-drilled into the breech), and repeat the above.

If that dosn't work,

Remove the breech plug from the barrel and go from there.

BTW, keep vent-hole and nipple clear of powder. BP (or it's substitute) is ignited by heat or flash. If the vent-hole is plugged up w/ BP, it'll act as a fuse: a major reason for delay or hang fire.

thanks!