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cpttimerestraint
08-07-2016, 4:47 PM
I need help IDing a S&W Revolver one of my co-workers is interested in selling. They inherited it so she doesn't know anything about it. It is a Smith and Wesson 38 special with a 6 inch barrel. I am trying to figure out which version it is and get an idea of when it was made before I do the PPT.

Thanks for the help.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/010001374207/media/81614104224/small/1470613949/enhance

jeffyhog
08-07-2016, 5:02 PM
The picture is lousy, but looks like a model 14 or 15. Open the cylinder and the model will be stamped inside.

Milsurp Collector
08-07-2016, 5:03 PM
I need help IDing a S&W Revolver one of my co-workers is interested in selling. They inherited it so she doesn't know anything about it. It is a Smith and Wesson 38 special with a 6 inch barrel. I am trying to figure out which version it is and get an idea of when it was made before I do the PPT.

Thanks for the help.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/010001374207/media/81614104224/small/1470613949/enhance

Swing open the cylinder and there is a good chance the model is marked on the frame

http://www.wikkidpissah.com/guns/swstandardmodnum.jpg

If not you can determine the model from the serial number http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/68254-How-to-Identify-Date-a-S-amp-W

cpttimerestraint
08-07-2016, 5:16 PM
The only markings I saw on the inside were 24724 which I think is the serial number and tw which could be the model I guess

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Barbarosa
08-07-2016, 5:39 PM
As others said, probably a model 14 or 15. The model 14 is generally considered to be a top-of-the-line target shooter, but not too valuable. If the grips are correct for the gun it would put it at a pre-1968 since that is when they stopped using the "diamond" grip. I can't tell if it is just a bad picture or if there is a lot of corrosion between the Tyler grip adapter and the frame. If in good shape the grips alone bring $100 - $200 on ebay.

orangeusa
08-07-2016, 5:43 PM
Great gun, not expensive Smith = great investment.
Old Smiths never go down in value.

.

P5Ret
08-07-2016, 5:50 PM
I can't tell if it is just a bad picture or if there is a lot of corrosion between the Tyler grip adapter and the frame. If in good shape the grips alone bring $100 - $200 on ebay.

It almost looks like someone may have glued the T-grip onto the target grips. I think that's the first time I've seen one used with Smith target grips.

'ol shooter
08-07-2016, 6:25 PM
It's stamped Mod 25-2 in the frame, unless I am seeing things. Pull the grips off and give us the serial number stamped in the butt. Then we can give you correct info. A 25-2 is chambered for .45 ACP.
http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z418/olshooter/25_2_zpsy3b0u7iv.jpg

Erion929
08-07-2016, 6:28 PM
It's stamped Mod 25-2 in the frame, unless I am seeing things. Pull the grips off and give us the serial number stamped in the butt. Then we can give you correct info. A 25-2 is chambered for .45 ACP.
http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z418/olshooter/25_2_zpsy3b0u7iv.jpg



That pic is just a SAMPLE one posted to show the OP where to look on HIS gun :oji:

Jess B. Guy
08-07-2016, 6:47 PM
24724 is not the serial number. tw is not the model. If no Model number is stamped on the frame where the cylinder opens its probably a K-38. Remove the grips, look at the bottom of the grip frame for the serial number. The serial number can tell you when it was made.

cpttimerestraint
08-07-2016, 6:52 PM
I tried removing the grips, but they look to be glued on. I didn't want to damage a gun that I didn't own. So the serial number isn't the number stamped into the frame?

jeffyhog
08-07-2016, 6:54 PM
I don't think the number you saw is a serial number. More likely a manufacturing number to keep parts together during the assembly process. If there is no model number stamped in the crane (look carefully as sometimes they are very faint), it is likely a "pre-model 14" which was known as the K38 target masterpiece, and made before 1957 when the new model numbering system began.

I would take the grips off, and the serial number should be on the very bottom of the frame. The target grips cover the bottom of the frame. The grips may also be stamped on the inside to match the serial number. With the serial number you can fairly accurately determine the date of manufacture.

These are great shooters, but condition is going to determine value. Better pictures would help greatly. I can't even be sure from the pic if that is a patridge or a ramp front sight.

jeffyhog
08-07-2016, 7:03 PM
Jess B Guy posted the same info as I was typing on my phone, and I see that you tried to get the grips off. In my opinion, the grips need to come off before you can make a fair assessment as to the condition and exactly what it is. If you damage the grips getting them off, they're going to cost a fair amount to replace. I'm guessing if they're glued on, they're not in very good condition, but diamond target stocks in even fair condition are pricey.

'ol shooter
08-07-2016, 7:21 PM
That pic is just a SAMPLE one posted to show the OP where to look on HIS gun :oji:

Ah so, now I get it. OP, the grips are not glued on, a gentle tap or two will loosen them once the screw is out. Probably old oil and dirt holding them in place.

john myers
08-07-2016, 8:42 PM
looks more like its covered in fuzzy dust maybe sitting on a shelf
for years
looks like more dust on the back of a wide target trigger

sigstroker
08-07-2016, 9:19 PM
There's nothing on the barrel? Should be caliber at least.

sakosf
08-07-2016, 9:41 PM
There's nothing on the barrel? Should be caliber at least.

Is it a 5 screw ?

MrOrange
08-07-2016, 11:41 PM
I tried removing the grips, but they look to be glued on. I didn't want to damage a gun that I didn't own.

The grips are going to have to come off to get the serial in order to do a transfer anyway.


So the serial number isn't the number stamped into the frame?

As mentioned, not on older models.


And for Pete's sake get some better pictures!!

Mr. Beretta
08-08-2016, 12:12 AM
The grips are going to have to come off to get the serial in order to do a transfer anyway.




As mentioned, not on older models.


And for Pete's sake get some better pictures!!



PM me the serial number (substitute the last two numbers with X's & included the "letter" in front of #'s if there is one) stamped into the butt of the frame once you remove the grips.

I'll tell you what I can about the gun.

highpower
08-08-2016, 5:04 AM
If it is a K38 Masterpiece, it will have the serial number on the barrel underneath the ejector rod. Also it should be on the rear of the cylinder, visible when you open it up. If the gun hasn't been messed with, those numbers will match the number on the bottom of the grip frame. On earlier Smiths the stocks are the Magna style and are numbered to the gun. The stocks that are on it are later target stocks. The serial number will look like "K123xxx. The number on the inside of the crane is an assembly number and has no relevance.

The piece that is in front of the stocks is called a "T" grip. It is not glued on, but has a clip that goes around the frame and the stocks hold it in place. It is more than likely that the stocks are being held in place by petrified oil and with some careful fiddling will come off.

kurac
08-08-2016, 6:20 AM
If it is a K38 Masterpiece, it will have the serial number on the barrel underneath the ejector rod. Also it should be on the rear of the cylinder, visible when you open it up. If the gun hasn't been messed with, those numbers will match the number on the bottom of the grip frame

At some point S&W stopped putting the serial number on the barrel, cylinder, ejectors star, sideplate and crane. I believe this happened when the 5th screw was eliminated, or maybe even the 4th screw but certainly by 1968.

Bobby Ricigliano
08-08-2016, 6:54 AM
I would suggest using a better camera or lay off the espresso and energy drinks before taking pictures.

Any pre-lock S&W in good condition with the original wood grips is somewhat desirable to collectors. If it is a Model 15 I'd say $400 or so.

ironhorse1
08-08-2016, 7:04 AM
I would suggest using a better camera or lay off the espresso and energy drinks before taking pictures.

Any pre-lock S&W in good condition with the original wood grips is somewhat desirable to collectors. If it is a Model 15 I'd say $400 or so.

It seems that no one realizes how much that these have increased in value.

While you may be able to find a shooter in a free state under $500 in California this on could go for $600-$800 depending upon its overall condition.

It appears to be a Target Masterpiece pre model 14.

These are excellent guns and very desirable. Need more photos and the serial to date.

Loosen the grip screw and gently tap on the screw head. Hopefully that will help in their removal.

irh

John Joseph
08-08-2016, 7:07 AM
6" and 8" barrels are usually M-14s(Masterpiece,) 4" and 2" were usually M-15s(Combat Masterpiece.) There are exceptions. All highly desirable in good condition.

highpower
08-08-2016, 8:10 AM
At some point S&W stopped putting the serial number on the barrel, cylinder, ejectors star, sideplate and crane. I believe this happened when the 5th screw was eliminated, or maybe even the 4th screw but certainly by 1968.


Exactly. That is why I said if it is a K38, implying that it is a pre model numbered gun, rather than a Model 14. I also agree that if you find a nice pre model Smith with target sights for $500, you better buy it on the spot.

It seems that no one realizes how much that these have increased in value.

While you may be able to find a shooter in a free state under $500 in California this on could go for $600-$800 depending upon its overall condition.




The last post war Smith I bought was a 1948 K22 Masterpiece here in Nevada and I paid $700 for it in 98% condition including the matching magna stocks. I had no problem buying it for that much. If I ever go to sell it, I will certainly ask much more than that for it.

cpttimerestraint
08-08-2016, 10:13 AM
Thanks for the responses. Will try and get some better pics. Also great tip on using the screw to loosen the grip

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Bobby Ricigliano
08-08-2016, 12:33 PM
It seems that no one realizes how much that these have increased in value.

While you may be able to find a shooter in a free state under $500 in California this on could go for $600-$800 depending upon its overall condition.

It appears to be a Target Masterpiece pre model 14.

These are excellent guns and very desirable. Need more photos and the serial to date.

Loosen the grip screw and gently tap on the screw head. Hopefully that will help in their removal.

irh

I understand quite well that they have increased in value and are desirable to collectors. I also agree they are very nice pieces. If it is a used Model 15, my appraisal stands. If it is some sort of rarer variant, then obviously more. It is hard to tell with the crappy picture.

It doesn't really matter what guns are "going for." Online boards, auction sites, and gun store display cases are full of stuff that is "going for" big bucks. It means nothing unless someone is actually buying it.

Killer Bee
08-08-2016, 1:06 PM
I understand quite well that they have increased in value and are desirable to collectors. I also agree they are very nice pieces. If it is a used Model 15, my appraisal stands. If it is some sort of rarer variant, then obviously more. It is hard to tell with the crappy picture.

It doesn't really matter what guns are "going for." Online boards, auction sites, and gun store display cases are full of stuff that is "going for" big bucks. It means nothing unless someone is actually buying it.

yep.. I browse the closed auctions in the 'completed items' tab in advanced search on gunbroker [login required]

there you can see bid activity and sold/not sold results to determine real market value..

so indeed, SOLD tells it all when determining value where listed prices can reach the moon..

of course gunbroker is not the be-all and end-all however there is a lot of activity on that site and usually plenty of comparisons for the more common models..

keep in mind age, condition, etc. when comparing other guns for value estimates..

'ol shooter
08-08-2016, 1:09 PM
Thanks for the responses. Will try and get some better pics. Also great tip on using the screw to loosen the grip

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Careful on using that technique, tap too hard and you can knock the escutcheon right out of the wood, possibly taking some of the wood along with it.

jeffyhog
08-08-2016, 1:17 PM
Even if he destroyed the grips getting them off, as long as there were no other serious issues with the gun, I think there would be a taker here at $400 in under 3 minutes. Gunbroker is good for gauging the market in America, but prices here behind the iron curtain are significantly higher.
OP, I'm guessing you made an offer to buy it?

cpttimerestraint
08-08-2016, 1:29 PM
Yeah. I ended up working out a deal to build a fence for her. 3 days work is a fair trade we thought.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Barbarosa
08-08-2016, 1:44 PM
Yeah. 3 days work is a fair trade we thought.

Yeah, I'd say so. We want more pics when you can! Nice score.

Bobby Ricigliano
08-08-2016, 3:31 PM
yep.. I browse the closed auctions in the 'completed items' tab in advanced search on gunbroker [login required]

there you can see bid activity and sold/not sold results to determine real market value..

so indeed, SOLD tells it all when determining value where listed prices can reach the moon..

of course gunbroker is not the be-all and end-all however there is a lot of activity on that site and usually plenty of comparisons for the more common models..

keep in mind age, condition, etc. when comparing other guns for value estimates..

Gunbroker can be a useful barometer of actual selling prices, but that site has its share of shenanigans as well. Just the other day I was eyeing a handgun that had a low starting price and no bids. Within 10 minutes of my qualifying bid (after nearly a week of no activity) I was outbid by a phantom NR (No Rating) bidder with a brand new account. I bid just a little higher until I felt it was no longer a great deal and the auction went to the (NR) bidder.

For those that haven't used auction sites, that is a straight up shill bidder 99% of the time. The only thing that made me feel better is that now the seller will have to pay a commission to the site on a gun that he just sold to himself because he wasn't happy with the actual bids he received.

Killer Bee
08-08-2016, 5:16 PM
^ agree 100%

it does take some time getting familiar with the activities on gunbroker to sort out legit auctions from the shill bidders..

I have a few saved searches for specific models I watch and collect.. every so often there's a seller passing through pulling a stunt like that..

after more than 5 years of regular use of gunbroker I've managed to get better at weeding out the bad ones but I too get duped occasionally..

for the more common models though, there's usually enough legit auctions to determine a sound figure..

sounds like the op made a fair trade.. still interested in the outcome of determining the year and model..

cpttimerestraint
08-08-2016, 6:01 PM
Here is a better photo. Was able to get the grips off with minimal damage. Not pristine, but they are still usable. The serial number dates to 1958. There are 5 screws i think. It has an adjustable rear sight.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I am more of a shotgun guy, but I saw an opportunity to get a cool old gun for a good deal.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/010001374207/media/81629707295/medium/1470704117/enhance

Mr. Beretta
08-08-2016, 6:17 PM
With help from the "Bible" (Standard Catalog of S&W) & partial SN.

K-38 Target Masterpiece.
1958.
.38 Spl....6" barrel.
Mod 14 should be stamped on frame by yoke.
Patridge front sight / adj rear sight.
Target grips with "diamond" at screw escutcheon.
Target hammer, smooth target trigger with travel stop.

Great little revolver. Congrats!

ironhorse1
08-08-2016, 6:20 PM
Very nice indeed! You may want to check the strain screw/grip front. It does not appear to be fully tight.

irh

They looked good in 1959 too!
This one came with Magna stocks but yours has some nice target stocks.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o136/BruceLeeM/mauser330.jpg (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/BruceLeeM/media/mauser330.jpg.html)

ironhorse1
08-08-2016, 6:24 PM
With help from the "Bible" (Standard Catalog of S&W) & partial SN.

K-38 Target Masterpiece.
1958.
.38 Spl....6" barrel.
Mod 14 should be stamped on frame by yoke.
Partridge front sight / adj rear sight.
Target grips with "diamond" at screw escutcheon.
Target hammer, smooth target trigger with travel stop.

Great little revolver. Congrats!

That would be a Patridge sight. A common spelling error.

irh

Killer Bee
08-08-2016, 6:42 PM
very nice, great score!

Mr. Beretta beat me to it, SCoSW rocks..

take good care of that wonderful old gun :)

orangeusa
08-08-2016, 7:17 PM
Thanks to this thread, I found my old NYPD Smith was serial number 592xx (marked on cylinder) which makes it 1940. The guy I bought it from swore it was about 1923. Oh well. I will add a pic... the grips are incorrect.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss16/orangeusa/100_1500.jpg

Thanks...

.

ironhorse1
08-08-2016, 8:00 PM
Nice revolver but I don't think that is the serial for a 1940's gun.

What's on the butt?

irh

Mr. Beretta
08-08-2016, 8:46 PM
Thanks to this thread, I found my old NYPD Smith was serial number 592xx (marked on cylinder) which makes it 1940. The guy I bought it from swore it was about 1923. Oh well. I will add a pic... the grips are incorrect.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss16/orangeusa/100_1500.jpg

Thanks...

.


What the serial number stamped on the butt of the frame? __________xx ?

orangeusa
08-08-2016, 8:59 PM
Bottom of frame is marked 5575xx . And a 4 digit hand stamped number which is supposedly the badge number of the LEO.

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/68254-How-to-Identify-Date-a-S-amp-W

Post #2 indicates that 1940 starts 59000. This one is 592xx.

.

MrOrange
08-08-2016, 9:27 PM
Bottom of frame is marked 5575xx . And a 4 digit hand stamped number which is supposedly the badge number of the LEO.

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/68254-How-to-Identify-Date-a-S-amp-W

Post #2 indicates that 1940 starts 59000. This one is 592xx.

.

Bottom of the frame is the actual serial number (of the frame). Looks like the cylinder has been replaced, if it has a different number.

Didn't see any pre-war K's anywhere in that list on NE Shooters; I think you're looking at pre-war N frames.

orangeusa
08-08-2016, 9:36 PM
The number on the cylinder and frame match. 592xx. (5 digits)

The number on the butt is 5575xx. (6 digits)

What am I missing here?

.

ironhorse1
08-08-2016, 9:39 PM
.38 M&P Model of 1905 4th change 241704-1000000 1915-1942.

So definitely earlier than 1940.

irh

ironhorse1
08-08-2016, 9:41 PM
The number on the cylinder and frame match. 592xx. (5 digits)

The number on the butt is 5575xx. (6 digits)

What am I missing here?

.

The frame number is an assembly number. Check the bottom of the barrel for another number.

irh

orangeusa
08-08-2016, 9:50 PM
Wow.

But same as on butt of gun 5575xx. I didn't even know that was there, you have to swing out the cylinder to see it.
So mid 1920's wouldn't be a crazy guess. I was given that year from the fellow who was trying to run down the badge number stamped into the butt, which is #7366.

All I know is that is shoots very nice. Has same sights as my SAA guns.

.

.

ironhorse1
08-08-2016, 10:11 PM
Yes it has the gutter sight of a utility gun.

The confusion is the assembly numbers on the frame and cylinder are close to the actual serial number on the butt and barrel.

You do have a heat treated cylinder post serial 316648 but treat it kindly due to its age.

This gun does not have the hammer block. Guns with the hammer block have an S prefix or VS as in the Victory models.

You gun is a nice example of a M&P and appears to be in great condition.

irh

This gun has the long action. I've never shot a long action Smith. What am I missing? :)

orangeusa
08-08-2016, 10:18 PM
Appreciate the info on the hammer block. I don't plan on dropping it. :)

But good to know. It has a little holster wear on the muzzle. Now if I could only get the correct grips. I am pretty sure that the correct grips are very similiar, but round at the top. The wood at the top of the grip protrudes beyond the backstrap.

Another quest for parts. Thanks again.

ironhorse1
08-08-2016, 10:28 PM
Those may be the correct stocks. Is the serial written in pencil on the inside?

Hard rubber or walnut with gold monograms and diamonds around the escutcheons.

That is what I see on the gun.

irh

Allhailflintlocks
08-08-2016, 10:33 PM
As others said, probably a model 14 or 15. The model 14 is generally considered to be a top-of-the-line target shooter, but not too valuable. If the grips are correct for the gun it would put it at a pre-1968 since that is when they stopped using the "diamond" grip. I can't tell if it is just a bad picture or if there is a lot of corrosion between the Tyler grip adapter and the frame. If in good shape the grips alone bring $100 - $200 on ebay.

Interesting. Back in 77 - 78 I paid for (though my dad had to do the actually buying since I wasn't 21 at the time) a model 14 and 17. I remember that we immediately replaced the model 14 magna grip with one from Herrett's but I don't remember us doing anything with the 17 grips. For as long as I've had the 17 it has had diamond grips on it so I've always assumed those were the grips it came with. Looks like we replaced both revolver grips after all.

Mr. Beretta
08-08-2016, 10:46 PM
.38 M&P Model of 1905 4th change 241704-1000000 1915-1942.

Ironhorse1 is correct.

Coast Guard took delivery of 25 of these in 1934. The serial number range was 646994 - 648882.

And 36 were shipped to U.S.S.S. in 1935. Those guns were in the 651500 range.

Ref 5575xx, my best guess would be approx. 1930. And BTW I think those grips are way too new for the gun. A serial should be stamped on the inside portion of the right grip. See if it matches the serial number.

I bet it had smooth walnut grips without the mongrams.

:)

Killer Bee
08-08-2016, 10:52 PM
don't know if these pics help with the above or not but they show s/n locations on a '42 Navy Victory, a variant of the model 10, successor of the M&P..

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/sapbp92c4vt0pxt/1942%20Navy%20Victory.jpg?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/nyec4w4nqcr1rd9/barrel%20serial.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/f4w56mr24j9v0m4/butt%20serial.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/a29iixh710rwekd/cylinder%20serial.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/gv5fd9sfamw38i8/ejector%20serial.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/j0eiv2mtxvty7n6/grip%20serial.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/znppfujddk0g0e7/crane%20n%20yoke.JPG?dl=0

https://dl.dropbox.com/s/05o9d791jh2lork/rollmark.JPG?dl=0

john myers
08-08-2016, 11:00 PM
I need help IDing a S&W Revolver one of my co-workers is interested in selling. They inherited it so she doesn't know anything about it. It is a Smith and Wesson 38 special with a 6 inch barrel. I am trying to figure out which version it is and get an idea of when it was made before I do the PPT.

Thanks for the help.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/010001374207/media/81614104224/small/1470613949/enhance
so what was the funk on the edge of the grips?

orangeusa
08-08-2016, 11:08 PM
Thanks KB. Mine all match except for the grips. Good god, I had no idea there were so many numbers on this thing.

The grip has 184 and 795 stamped on it, and fits rough in the back.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss16/orangeusa/Mobile%20Uploads/20160808_231254_zpsffhkkxwx.jpg

184 is above 795.

It looks like these were all hand stamped. Gad, the shell ejector numbers are a mess.
Oh where to get grips. :)
.

cpttimerestraint
08-08-2016, 11:32 PM
so what was the funk on the edge of the grips?

The wood grips were glued to the black portion. it cracked during removal, but I think I can glue it back together.

highpower
08-09-2016, 5:22 AM
Those may be the correct stocks. Is the serial written in pencil on the inside?

Hard rubber or walnut with gold monograms and diamonds around the escutcheons.

That is what I see on the gun.

irh

S&W didn't put the guns serial number on target grips because they didn't require the hand fitting that magnas needed. In the fifties the serial numbers on stocks was stamped in two lines on the left panel. All magna stocks from that era are walnut.

As for the OP's K38 Masterpiece, they could be original to the gun, but most K frames came with magnas and target stocks were installed after the gun left the factory. It would have to have been special ordered with target stocks and to find that out you will need a factory letter.

Post war K frame magna stocks on this 1950 K38 Masterpiece:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Firearms/Smith-and-Wesson/K38/i-VT57Ws7/0/XL/IMG_0974-XL.jpg

The target style stocks were first introduced around 1950 and the earliest versions didn't have a cut out on the left grip panel. These are known as non-relieved targets and unmolested sets are somewhat rare.

Here is a set on a 1954 Combat Masterpiece:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Firearms/Smith-and-Wesson/Jeff/i-3fK9RP3/1/L/IMG_4352-L.jpg

Responding to complaints that guns were hard to reload because the top of the stock was in the way of loading and unloading the gun, S&W modified the left stock by cutting away some material. These stocks are called football targets due to the football shaped cutout. They were introduced sometime in the late fifties.

A set of football targets on a 1967 Combat Magnum:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Firearms/Smith-and-Wesson/Model19/i-mTDGbtF/0/XL/IMG_2925-XL.jpg

When they were installed at the factory, the tag on the box reflected that fact:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Firearms/Smith-and-Wesson/Model19/i-JmjjLNM/0/XL/IMG_2906-XL.jpg

In the early '80s they went to a much larger cutout as shown on this 1982 Model 66-2
https://photos.smugmug.com/Firearms/Smith-and-Wesson/Smithandwesson66-2/i-BqZ9hSQ/1/XL/IMG_3479-XL.jpg

If the OP's gun was made in 1958 it should have a model number stamped inside the crane cut on the frame. However, S&W never threw anything away and it may have been an earlier frame that slipped through without the model stamp or just it didn't get stamped when it was manufactured. I have a Model 29 no dash that was made in 1959 and it does have the "mod 29" stamped inside the crane.

ironhorse1
08-09-2016, 7:59 AM
The M&P stocks needed by orangeusa should look the same as these. The top is rounded unlike the magnas now on the gun.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o136/BruceLeeM/1905%20target%20left%20profile_zpsvgg2fb7d.jpg (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/BruceLeeM/media/1905%20target%20left%20profile_zpsvgg2fb7d.jpg.htm l)

irh

Bobby Ricigliano
08-09-2016, 9:51 AM
Speaking of old S&W revolvers, here is mine:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Handguns/Smith-Wesson/i-4n25jjp/2/X2/IMG_0096-X2.jpg (https://bobbyricigliano71.smugmug.com/Handguns/Smith-Wesson/i-4n25jjp/A)
I have no idea if the grips are correct but I would not mess with them regardless. I don't think they make guns like this anymore.

orangeusa
08-10-2016, 2:13 PM
That is outstanding. What is going on with the trigger? Just a photo artifact?

Che762x39
08-10-2016, 2:32 PM
Really nice S&W revolvers. Makes me nostalgic for the good old days. Thanks everyone for sharing. :oji:

beerman
08-10-2016, 2:36 PM
Nice gun Bobby...is it a 14 or a 19?

Sutcliffe
08-11-2016, 6:10 AM
Nothing that has come along since has topped this. It will likely shoot better than it looks. Great find. You will pass it down to a grand child one day.

Bobby Ricigliano
08-12-2016, 4:39 PM
That is outstanding. What is going on with the trigger? Just a photo artifact?

If you mean mine, I think it is the angle. It Has that wide grooved trigger and big checkered hammer that people seem to like.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Handguns/Smith-Wesson/i-vD94tbV/2/X2/IMG_0098-X2.jpg (https://bobbyricigliano71.smugmug.com/Handguns/Smith-Wesson/i-vD94tbV/A)

Bobby Ricigliano
08-12-2016, 4:40 PM
Nice gun Bobby...is it a 14 or a 19?

That is a Model 19.. thanks!

orangeusa
08-14-2016, 6:38 PM
If you mean mine, I think it is the angle. It Has that wide grooved trigger and big checkered hammer that people seem to like.

Thanks. I have an older 686 and older 586 and the triggers are smooth.

Love the looks of your gun.

.

cpttimerestraint
08-22-2016, 6:19 AM
Update; we took it out to the range this weekend and it shoots like a dream. Probably going to sell my 92 fs inox now. Never could get comfortable with that gun. The action on the s&w is smooth and it has very little snap.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

MrOrange
08-22-2016, 2:16 PM
Thanks for the update, I wuz just wondering about this thread and that ol' Smith.


Re The NYPD revolver: It's currently wearing post-war Magnas, and it does have a hammer-block safety, it's just the old style that's fixed to the sideplate as opposed to the modern style which floats and is articulated by the rebound slide. You can see the differences in the schematic at Numrich. The change was circa 1945.

Here (http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SmithWesson-33495/Revolvers-42026/VictoryKFrame-38394.htm)

The checkered area on pre-war Magnas have squared-off lower corners, and the upper corners are a bit sharper.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/joesat/Pre-War20Magnas_zpstgpvplrk.jpg