Yerman
06-06-2016, 1:38 PM
http://www.gsiinternational.com/uimages/trim_dies/300_blackout_trim_die_b.jpg
http://www.gsiinternational.com/300-blackout-for-650_8_4243_8644.html
Ok…so I did about 800 pieces of brass this weekend. Here is my brief review of the process using the GSI trim kit.
The first thing I noticed, no instructions. Just a box full of parts. Ok…download them on the internet and/or watch a video on their website…no such thing. It’s not a huge deal because it is pretty intuitive, but it would have been nice to at least have something to glance through quickly or reference back to during the process.
Now on to the setup. The setup took FOREVER. Partly because there was a lot of figuring out the process I was going to use because there are no instructions, partly because I couldn’t get a wrench on the nut to tighten the motor. Partly because I had to run the brass through three times. More on this in a few minutes.
So, when you are planning this process out, there are a few things to consider. One, you can’t do this in one pass. There are two dies, one if a rough cut, one is the final cut, and a final sizing step that I did. I wanted to run a final size die because it was recommended to me by GSI when I called and spoke to their tech. It’s a good thing too because I couldn’t get the brass to pass a case gauge until it got ran through a sizing die.
Before I continue, let me explain the reason for the two dies they supply. If you go straight to the final cut die, the neck doesn’t come in contact with the die before the cutting blade. Apparently, when this happens (I didn’t try it), the case will simply spin in the shell plate. So, the rough cut dies is set up to make the initial trim, and the final trim die is set up to grab the shoulder correctly for the final trim. Because the neck tension is so important to keep the case from spinning, it creates another problem…you can’t run the case through a size die before the final trim die. So…here is the process:
If you want to send the brass through only twice:
Pass 1
Decap at station 1
Rough trim at station 4
Pass 2
Final trim at station 4
Sizing dies at station 5 (but you have to remove your de-capping pin but leave your nick sizer)
Now, if you are ok with three passes, or if you don’t have a de-capper, you can:
Pass1
Rough trim at station 4
Pass 2
Final trim at station 4
Pass 3
Sizing die at station 1
A few final notes…it would have been nice to have two shell plates so I don’t have to reset the dies each time. I am debating buying another one. Also, when the final trim die is in place, the gap between the shell plate and the trimmer motor is so small that an adjustable wrench will not fit. I ended up doing some wanky thing with my bench vise and a magic marker to get it set up. I won't bother you with the details but it was a pain in the arse. I will need to buy a wrench specifically for the tightening process of the motor. This could have been prevented if they machined the top of the plate down a little bit like they do on the Dillon toolhead:
https://www.dillonprecision.com/uimages/650_Short_Trim_Toolhead.jpg
Lastly, one very important part to consider, the final sizing die will change the OAL of the case and this is done after the final trim. So, you have to final trim the case, then remove the toolhead and install a toolhead with a sizing die (luckily I have a spare toolhead), size it, measure it, then make adjustments to the final trim die and start the process all over again until a sized piece of brass comes out perfect. It’s a pain!.
Overall, it’s ok. The setup is the a killer but once you are set up, its as fast as you can pull the handle. To really make this worth it, you need a second toolhead, a second motor, and a wrench that fits between the toolhead and the motor.
Now...why Dillon says I can't use, or they can't make, a toolhead to do this with an RT1200, I have no idea. I am not interested in spending another $350 on a new RT1500 motor when I have a perfectly good RT1200.
http://www.gsiinternational.com/300-blackout-for-650_8_4243_8644.html
Ok…so I did about 800 pieces of brass this weekend. Here is my brief review of the process using the GSI trim kit.
The first thing I noticed, no instructions. Just a box full of parts. Ok…download them on the internet and/or watch a video on their website…no such thing. It’s not a huge deal because it is pretty intuitive, but it would have been nice to at least have something to glance through quickly or reference back to during the process.
Now on to the setup. The setup took FOREVER. Partly because there was a lot of figuring out the process I was going to use because there are no instructions, partly because I couldn’t get a wrench on the nut to tighten the motor. Partly because I had to run the brass through three times. More on this in a few minutes.
So, when you are planning this process out, there are a few things to consider. One, you can’t do this in one pass. There are two dies, one if a rough cut, one is the final cut, and a final sizing step that I did. I wanted to run a final size die because it was recommended to me by GSI when I called and spoke to their tech. It’s a good thing too because I couldn’t get the brass to pass a case gauge until it got ran through a sizing die.
Before I continue, let me explain the reason for the two dies they supply. If you go straight to the final cut die, the neck doesn’t come in contact with the die before the cutting blade. Apparently, when this happens (I didn’t try it), the case will simply spin in the shell plate. So, the rough cut dies is set up to make the initial trim, and the final trim die is set up to grab the shoulder correctly for the final trim. Because the neck tension is so important to keep the case from spinning, it creates another problem…you can’t run the case through a size die before the final trim die. So…here is the process:
If you want to send the brass through only twice:
Pass 1
Decap at station 1
Rough trim at station 4
Pass 2
Final trim at station 4
Sizing dies at station 5 (but you have to remove your de-capping pin but leave your nick sizer)
Now, if you are ok with three passes, or if you don’t have a de-capper, you can:
Pass1
Rough trim at station 4
Pass 2
Final trim at station 4
Pass 3
Sizing die at station 1
A few final notes…it would have been nice to have two shell plates so I don’t have to reset the dies each time. I am debating buying another one. Also, when the final trim die is in place, the gap between the shell plate and the trimmer motor is so small that an adjustable wrench will not fit. I ended up doing some wanky thing with my bench vise and a magic marker to get it set up. I won't bother you with the details but it was a pain in the arse. I will need to buy a wrench specifically for the tightening process of the motor. This could have been prevented if they machined the top of the plate down a little bit like they do on the Dillon toolhead:
https://www.dillonprecision.com/uimages/650_Short_Trim_Toolhead.jpg
Lastly, one very important part to consider, the final sizing die will change the OAL of the case and this is done after the final trim. So, you have to final trim the case, then remove the toolhead and install a toolhead with a sizing die (luckily I have a spare toolhead), size it, measure it, then make adjustments to the final trim die and start the process all over again until a sized piece of brass comes out perfect. It’s a pain!.
Overall, it’s ok. The setup is the a killer but once you are set up, its as fast as you can pull the handle. To really make this worth it, you need a second toolhead, a second motor, and a wrench that fits between the toolhead and the motor.
Now...why Dillon says I can't use, or they can't make, a toolhead to do this with an RT1200, I have no idea. I am not interested in spending another $350 on a new RT1500 motor when I have a perfectly good RT1200.