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mike100
06-21-2008, 10:09 AM
My favorite revolver, A S&W model 66-2, is acting up and maybe failing to fire one out of 60 bullets with my reloads (using winchester primers).

Last year, I had sent it to the Smith and Wesson perf. center shop for an action job. That was great for about 6 months. Now, it seems to have lost a bit of its spring on the hammer.

Can I make an adjustment myself or should I send it back? Bear in mind that I'm traveling a lot and being around to pick up my firearm from fedex could be tough. This is my first fixed up revolver action, so I know it needs to come back to a slightly harder pull, but hopefully not back to "stock".

p.s. I mainly use this gun for IDPA, but I would like to think it could be reliable enough for other uses.

thanks,
mike

smittty
06-21-2008, 10:15 AM
If it's a coil spring it's an easy fix that you can do yourself.

Make sure the gun is not loaded.

Remove the grip, remove the coil spring and rod that holds it in place, place a small washer at the end of the spring, put it back together and try it out.

randy
06-21-2008, 11:03 AM
Tighten the leaf spring under the grip. Shoot Federal primers. Make sure you are seating your primers deep enough. If you shoot it again does it go off? If it does then the above should fix it. If not get a longer firing pin.

Good luck

c good
06-21-2008, 11:05 AM
This is a leaf spring type of hammer spring. Tension is placed on it by a "Strain Screw". Pull the grips off if the front strap isn't visible. At the bottom of the front strap there is a single large screw. Make sure it is tightened all the way in. If its tight already it might just be the ammo. Inconsistent primer seat depths can do this. Or you may have excessive endshake which is easily cured with some shims. If it is a weak hammer spring, they're easily purchased through Wolff Spring. Install is easy. HTH c good

eaglemike
06-21-2008, 11:33 AM
The 66-2 has the firing pin on the hammer, so it's not an easy swap for the average person to install a longer firing pin.

The 66-2 also has a leaf-type spring.....

The above advice is pretty good.....

The springs do take a set after a while. The strain screw (as noted above) sometimes comes loose, so check that (as noted above :) )

Federal primers take less of a strike to ignite - as noted above.:) Switch to Federals if you can find them for your reloads. Clean the priming mechanism, and if you have adjustable primer seating on your reloader, make sure they are .003 to .005 below flush. A loose shell plate can also affect things.

If all this fails, or you want a little extra insurance, here's a trick. Get you friendly neighborhood machinist to take .005 from the bottom of the head of the strain screw. This will let the screw stick through the frame .005 farther, and that should be enough. I've fixed a few guns this way. The bottom of the hole for the strain screw is not flat (usually), so sometimes beveling the bottom of the head of the screw to match the hole angle is enough.

all the best,

Mike

mike100
06-21-2008, 4:03 PM
... Get you friendly neighborhood machinist to take .005 from the bottom of the head of the strain screw. This will let the screw stick through the frame .005 farther, and that should be enough. ...

all the best,

Mike

I took the grips off and played with the screw. I think this might be the best way to get a little bit more tension without starting over with a new spring.

BTW, to answer other questions, I did pay more attention to cleaning the primer pockets and getting the primer set in all the way with this batch so I'm pretty sure the spring set and lost a little strength. The 66 was tightened up a little bit when I sent it back to s&w, but the k-frame takes a beating- I guess the cylinder could be tighter.

dfletcher
06-21-2008, 6:40 PM
I took the grips off and played with the screw. I think this might be the best way to get a little bit more tension without starting over with a new spring.

BTW, to answer other questions, I did pay more attention to cleaning the primer pockets and getting the primer set in all the way with this batch so I'm pretty sure the spring set and lost a little strength. The 66 was tightened up a little bit when I sent it back to s&w, but the k-frame takes a beating- I guess the cylinder could be tighter.

If you had to tighten the strain screw a bit that should solve your problem. Putting a little blue loctite on it wouldn't be such a bad thing. BTW, as a temp fix you can put a fired primer cup on the screw stem, makes it just a touch longer and gives the mainspring a touch more power.

maxicon
06-22-2008, 1:10 PM
Cylinder and Slide makes an extended firing pin that can make up for light main power springs. It's a pretty quick and easy replacement, and is only $11.50.
https://shop.cylinder-slide.com/ccp51/cgi-bin/cp-app.pl?usr=51F9953002&rnd=4331970&rrc=N&affl=&cip=71.131.27.53&act=&aff=&pg=cat&ref=50&catstr=HOME:6

It's popular on race guns, and there's always a back-and-forth discussion on whether it's a smart thing to do over at S&WForum, but lots of people use them.

dfletcher
06-22-2008, 4:49 PM
Cylinder and Slide makes an extended firing pin that can make up for light main power springs. It's a pretty quick and easy replacement, and is only $11.50.
https://shop.cylinder-slide.com/ccp51/cgi-bin/cp-app.pl?usr=51F9953002&rnd=4331970&rrc=N&affl=&cip=71.131.27.53&act=&aff=&pg=cat&ref=50&catstr=HOME:6

It's popular on race guns, and there's always a back-and-forth discussion on whether it's a smart thing to do over at S&WForum, but lots of people use them.

The item I saw on C & S is for frame mounted - pretty sure his 66 has the firing pin on the hammer?

rivviepop
06-22-2008, 7:16 PM
The item I saw on C & S is for frame mounted - pretty sure his 66 has the firing pin on the hammer?

Yes, a 66-2 has a hammer mounted firing pin with the nose rebound spring (not a free floater).

maxicon
06-23-2008, 2:45 PM
Doh! I knew that! I have a 65-2 with hammer mounted FP. I was thinking about my 642...

rivviepop
06-23-2008, 5:15 PM
Doh! I knew that! I have a 65-2 with hammer mounted FP. I was thinking about my 642...

Actually there is no correlation across models for something like this, if they changed; it was unique to that model's engineering revisions. The 66-2 came out 5 years after the 65-2, chronologically - the 65-6 moved to the frame mounted firing pin, but it was the 66-5 in that model line (same year). (*)

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(*) SCSW 3rd, pp 228, 230